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Title: The Tourist's Guide through the Country of Caernarvon
       containing a short sketch of its History, Antiquities, &c.


Author: P. B. Williams



Release Date: June 2, 2014  [eBook #45865]

Language: English

Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)


***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE TOURIST'S GUIDE THROUGH THE
COUNTRY OF CAERNARVON***

Transcribed from the 1821 J. Hulme edition by David Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org

THE
TOURIST’S GUIDE
THROUGH THE
Country of Caernarvon,
CONTAINING A SHORT SKETCH
OF ITS
HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, &c.

By the Rev. P. B. Williams, A.B.

RECTOR OF LLANRUG AND LLANBERIS.

CAERNARVON:

PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY J. HULME,

Bookbinder & Stationer, Turf-Square.

AND MAY BE HAD OF POOLE & HARDING, CHESTER; R. TAYLOR,
LIVERPOOL; AND ALL OTHER BOOKSELLERS

—o—

1821.

p. 3TO

THOMAS JAMES WARREN BULKELEY,

Lord Viscount Bulkeley

OF CASHEL, IN THE KINGDOM OF IRELAND;

AND BARON BULKELEY,

OF BEAUMARIS, IN THE KINGDOM OF ENGLAND;

PEER OF THE REALM;

LORD LIEUTENANT, & CUSTOS HOTULORUM, OF THE COUNTY OF CAERNARVON

CHANCELLOR AND CHAMBERLAIN OF NORTH WALES;

CONSTABLE OF BEAUMARIS CASTLE, &c. &c.

A Nobleman, whose sole study is to do Good, and to promote the Happiness and Welfare of his Fellow Creatures; and who is highly Esteemed, and greatly and justly Beloved in this part of the Principality; and has repeatedly and deservedly received the Thanks of the Bench of Magistrates, as well as those of the Established Militia, under their gallant Commander, Col. Edwards, and the other Officers, for the Admirable Method with which he has Organized the County, and his ready Attention and Assistance at all Times when requisite,—This little Publication, is most Respectfully inscribed, by

His Lordship’s

Most obedient,

And most devoted

Humble Servant,

P. B. WILLIAMS.

Llanrug, April 9, 1821.

p. 4ADVERTISEMENT.

The following small compilation (for it claims no higher title) was made at the request of several friends, as the want of such a little Manuel principally for the use of Strangers, was generally known and acknowledged.  The Writer would not have permitted his name to appear, had he not been persuaded by the Publisher, that the countenance of even such an obscure individual would in some degree tend to promote the sale of the work.  Some of the Subscribers, there is reason to apprehend, expect a full and complete History of the County, but surely they do not suppose that such a work could be compressed within the compass of an octavo volume, or sold for such a small sum.

At some future period, the Writer would not be unwilling to undertake such a Publication, (should he meet with proper encouragement, and his life be spared) as he has for many years been collecting materials for such a work.

p. 5Subscribers’ Names.

Most Noble the Marquis of Anglesey, 6 copies

Rev. Thomas Alban, Llandrillo’n rhos 3 copies, bound

Mr. Ambrose, Penrhyn Arms Inn

Viscount Warren Bulkeley, 6 copies bound

Lord Bishop of Bangor, 4 copies

— Beresford, Esq. Carnarvon

J. Bradley, Esq. Plastirion

Harwood Banner, Esq. Liverpool

C. Brown, Esq. Manchester

Mr. Bettiss, Hotel, Carnarvon, 6 copies 1 bound

.. Black, Organist, Carnarvon

.. Broster, Bangor

.. T. Bowers, Chester

Rev. J. H. Cotton, Bangor, 2 copies

Edward Carreg, Esq. Carnarvon, bd

R. T. Carreg, Esq. Cefn mine, bound

Very Rev. The Dean of Bangor

— Dawson, Esq. Bangor

Mr. Davies, Crown & Anchor Inn, Bangor, 2 copies

.. Day, Schoolmaster, Carnarvon

.. J. Davies, Slate Merchant, do.

.. Davies, Mercer, Carnarvon

.. William Dalrymple, Liverpool

..  Davies, Bee Inn, Abergeleu

Colonel Edwards, Nanhoron, 6 copies

Miss Edwards, Nanhoron

J. Evans, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon

J. G. Evans, Esq. Carnarvon

Hugh Evans, Esq. Henblas

John Ellis, Esq. Solicitor, Pwllheli

Rev. T. Ellis, near Llanrwst

Mr. Evan Evans, Solicitor, Carnarvon

.. E. Evans, Shopkeeper, do.

.. R. Evans, Grocer, do.

.. Owen Ellis, do.

.. T. Evans, Brazier, Bangor

.. Ellis, Surveyor of Customs, Beaumaris

.. Evans, Tanner, Dolydd

.. Eyres, Druggist, Liverpool

..  J. Evans, Ty’n y coed, Abereirch bound

Right Honorable Maurice Fitzgerald, M.P. Knight of Kerry, bound

Mr. Fleming, Green, Carnarvon

.. Edmund Francis, do.

.. H. Field, Castle Inn, Bangor

.. Fletcher, Bangor

R. Garnons, Esq. Carnarvon, 1 dozen

John Griffith, Esq. Llanfair, 4 copies

W. G. Griffith, Esq. Bodegroes, 2 copies 1 bound

Joseph Goddard, Esq. Carnarvon

Holland Griffith, Esq. Garreglwyd

R. Griffith, Esq. Solicitor, Pwllheli, bd

J. Griffith, Esq. Solicitor, Llanrwst

Rev. D. Griffith, Llanfair, Anglesey, bd

Rev. W. Griffith, Rector of Llandwrog, and Chaplain of H. M. Dock Yard, Pembroke

Miss Griffith, 78 Aungier Street, Dublin

Miss M. A. Gething, Holyhead

Mr. Philip Gale, Stationer, Liverpool

.. H. Griffith, Druggist, Carnarvon, bd

.. O. Griffith, Tryfan

.. J. Griffith, Clynog, Anglesey

.. G. Griffith, Four-mile bridge

Captain Haslam, Carnarvon, 6 copies

— Hewitt, Esq. Bangor

Thomas Hughes, Esq. Solicitor, L—pool

Rev. J. Hamer, Bangor

.... Morris Hughes, Llandegai

.... J. Holland, Dolbenmaen

.... L. Hughes, Llanllechid

.... Richard Hughes, Brynllwyd

.... E. Herbert, Llanfair fechen

.... G. Herbert, Amlwch

.... H. Hughes, Llanfaethle, bound

Dr. Hughes, Pwllheli

Lieutenant Hughes, Carnarvon

Miss Howard, Conway, 3 copies

Mr. Hughes, Waterloo Tavern, Bangor 3 copies

.. R. Hughes, Shopkeeper, do bd

.. R. Hughes, Boot-maker, do bd

.. Hughes; Merchant, Carnarvon, bd

.. Hughes, Goat Inn, do

.. J. Hughes, Currier, Llanrwst

.. Hyman, Jeweller, Bangor, bd

Mrs. Hartwell, Post Office, Carnarvon, bound

Mr. Humphreys, Customs, ditto

.. Hobson, Factor, Birmingham

.. Hughes, Draper, Pwllheli, bd

.. Hughes, Timber Merchant, Pwllheli

Thomas Jones, Esq. Bryntirion 2 cop. 1 bound

John Jonas, Esq. Solicitor, Beaumaris

Robert Jones, Esq. Pen y bryn, bound

Rev. H. W. Jones, Treiorwerth, three copies

.... Henry Jones, Ty coch

.... J. Jones, Mynydd Ednyfed

.... Mr. Jones, Rector of Criciaeth

.... J. Jones, Llanllyfni, bound

.... Robert Jones, Boduan

.... J. Jones, Llanbedr goch

p. 6Rev. D. Jones, Llandoged

Mr. J. Jackson, Capel Curig Inn, six copies, 1 bound

.. Edward Jones, Ty’n y maes, 6 cop

Dr. Jones, Pwllheli, bound

Captain Jones, Pant howel

Mrs. Jones, Castellmai

Miss Jones, ditto

.... Jervoise, Litchfield

.... Jump, Liverpool

Mr. William Jones, Attorney, Carnarvon

Mr. Robert Jones, Shopkeeper, Ditto

.. Owen Jones, Merchant, Ditto

.. Jones, Currier, Ditto

.. Thomas Jones, Customs, Beaumaris

.. John Jonas, Goaler, Carnarvon

.. Jones, Pen y bryn, Eglwys bach

.. Richard Jones, Union, Carnarvon, bound

.. Jones, Eagles Inn, Llanrwst, bd

.. J. Jones, Surgeon, do

.. Robert Jones, Timber Merchant, St. Asaph

.. Jones, Machine Tavern, Rhudlan

.. H. Jones, Grocer, Abergeleu

.. William Jones, Mine Agent, Llandudno

Rev. J. Kyffin, Bangor, bound

.... J. Kyffin, Llanystyndwy, bound

Mr. William Kyffin, Eglwys fach, bd

.. M‘Kergow, Boduan

John Lloyd, Esq. Pen y glannau, Maentwrog, 6 copies

Colonel Lloyd, Marle, bound

T. Lloyd, Esq. Glangwna

Mrs. Lloyd, do

Miss F. Lloyd, do

J. T. Lloyd, Esq. Shrewsbury

Mrs. J. T. Lloyd, do

John Lane, Esq. Staffordshire

R. Llwyd, Esq. (Author of ‘Beaumaris Bay,’) Bank Place, Chester

J. E. Lloyd, Esq. Trallwyn

— Ludgate, Esq. Liverpool

Rev. William Lloyd, Festiniog

Miss Lewis, Mount Hazle

Mr. Lloyd, Collector of Excise, Carnarvon

.. L. Louis, Schoolmaster, Abergeleu

.. John Lloyd, Architect, Carnarvon

Miss A. Lewis, Bangor

Mr. Lewis, Bull’s-head Inn, Aber, bd

.. Lloyd, Druggist, Liverpool, bound

.. Lloyd, Brynkir, bound

.. Richard Leister, Llanrhos

Mr. M‘Lean, Gwynfryn

.. Lenthal, Maenan

Colonel Mc Gregor

Rev. H. Majendie, Bangor, 2 copies

Captain Majendie

W. Mason, Esq. M. D. Carnarvon

Rev. T. G. Moulsdale, Llanfair Talhaiarn

Mr. Morgan, Bank, Carnarvon

.. Millington, do

.. Mumford, Supervisor, Conway

.. H. Morris, Ty gwyn, Llanrug

O. J. E. Nanney, Esq. Gwynfryn, 2 copies, 1 bound

Rev. Mr. Nanney, Belmont

Mr. Nembard, Plasmadoc

.. Nichols, Tan yr allt Nursery

E. Owen, Esq. Carnarvon

Captain Robert Owen, Carnarvon

Rev. G. Owen, Carnarvon, 6 copies

.... E. Owen, Llaniestyn

.... E. A. Owen, Holyhead

.... J. Owen, Conway

Mr. Owen, Attorney, Carnarvon

.. Owen, Druggist, do

.. W. Owen, Shopkeeper, do

.. Humphrey Owen, Rhyddgaer, Anglesey

.. Ormerod, Gwyndu

Miss M. Owen, Inn, Festiniog

G. H. Dawkins Pennant, Esq. M.P.

Mrs. Pennant

T. P. I. Parry, Esq. Madryn, 3 copies

Colonel Parry, do bound

Captain Parry, R. N. Carnarvon

W. St. George Pelisier, Esq. Priory

Paul Panton, Esq. Plasgwyn

O. A. Poole, Esq. Gorphwysfa

Colonel Peacock, Anglesey

Iohn Price, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon 2 copies

Messrs. Poole and Harding, Chester 6 copies

Dr. Pring, Bangor

Rev. H. Price, Friars, Bangor

.... T. Parry, Treborth

.... H. Pugh, Llansaintffraid

.... O. Parry, Llanfair yn nghornwy

Mr. I. Prichard, Beddgelert, 2 copies

.. Edward Price, Carnarvon

.. Parry, Treborth, bound

.. Paul, Bangor

.. Powell, Customs, Carnarvon

.. Preece, Schoolmaster, do

.. Payne, Liquor Merchant, do

.. Robert Pritchard, Liverpool

p. 7Mr. Parry, Harp, Carnarvon, bound

.. R. Price, Traeth coch

.. O. H. Parry, Cromlech

.. Preston, Four-mile bridge

Hugh Rowlands, Esq. Ty mawr, Clynog

Iohn Rowlands, Esq. Plastirion

E. Griffith Roberts, Esq. Aber

W. Roberts, Esq. Oakland, Llanrwst

Robert Roberts, Esq. Bank, Carnarvon

Iohn Roberts, Esq. Dep. Reg. Bangor

Rev. Mr. Roberts, Hendre, 2 copies

.... I. Roberts, Llanengan.  2 copies

.... Owen Reynolds, Aber, bound

.... T. Read, Beaumaris

.... Ellis Roberts, Bangor, bound

.... H. Rowlands, Beaumaris

.... W. Roberts, Gallt y beren

Mr. Redding, Bull’s Head Inn, Beaumaris, 6 copies

.. Iohn Roberts, Surgeon, Carnarvon

.. W. Roberts, Surgeon, Green, do

.. H. Roberts, Carnarvon, bound

.. Roberts, Surgeon, Bangor

.. Rathbone, Druggist, do

.. Rouse, Harp Inn, Conway

.. Roberts, Surgeon, Llanrwst

.. Roberts, Watch-maker, Bangor

.. Richards, Tailor, Carnarvon

.. Richardson, Factor, Birmingham

.. Rhodes, Attorney, Liverpool

.. Rasbrook, Post Office, Bangor

.. Richardson, Carnarvon

.. G. Roberts, Clynog

.. Rice, Crown and Anchor, Pwllheli bound

.. Roberts, Attorney, Pwllheli

.. Roberts, Liquor merchant, do

.. Radford, Guard of the Prince Regent Coach

.. Robert Roberts, Holyhead

.. Read, Attorney, Llanrwst

Mrs. Roberts, Glass Shop, Carnarvon

.... Roberts, Ty hen, Llwyngwnadl

T. A. Smith, Esq. Vaynol, 4 copies

Captain Sewell, Carnarvon

Rice Thomas, Esq. Coed helen

William Turner, Esq. Parkia, near Carnarvon

Rev. J. W. Trevor, do

.... I. Titley, Llanrwst

.... W. Thomas, Trefor, Beamaris

Mr. Titterton, Carnarvon, bound

.. Thomas, Surgeon, bound

.. Thomas, Druggist, Llanrwst

Mr. Toleman, Watch-maker, Carnarvon

.. Richard Taylor, Bookseller, Liverpool, 2 copies

.. David Thomas, Bard of Snowdon

Miss Thomas, Port Penrhyn, Bangor bound

I Utterson, Esq. Bangor, bound

C. W. W. Wynne, Esq. M.P. Llangedwin

H. R. Williams, Esq. Penrhos

R. Lloyd Williams, Esq. Denbigh 2 copies

W. Williams, Esq. Solicitor, Pwllheli bound

Iames Wyatt, Esq. Lime Grove, two copies

Archibald Worthington, Esq. Bangor

I. Williams, Esq. Pant, Anglesey

Thomas Williams, Esq. Beaumaris

William Williams, Esq. Hendrewaelod

Iohn Williams, Esq. Tregarnedd

Richard Williams, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon

W. Williams, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon

Rev. W. Williams, Bangor Street, do

Robert Williams, Esq. Solicitor, do bd

Rev. R. Williams, Friars, Bangor bd

.... D. Williams, Llandwrog

.... Iames Williams, Treffos, Anglesey

....  Hugh Williams, Clynog, 2 copies

.... Dr. Williams, Llanbedrog

.... W. Williams, Trawsfynydd

.... E. Williams, Llanrhaiadr

.... G. Williams, Weeg

.... Mr. Williams, Treffos

.... Gethin Williams, Rhiwlas, bd

.... I. Williams, Llanbedr

Captain Walker, Bangor

Mr. Williams, Castle Inn, do. 3 copies

.. E. Williams, Strand, London, two dozen

.. Williams, Druggist, Carnarvon bd

.. Williams, Land Surveyor, Bangor

.. Williams, Solicitor, do

.. I. Willians, Shopkeeper, Carnarvon

.. Robert Williams, do do

.. Williams, Pool Street do

.. Williams, Plumber do

.. Wakeman do bd

.. Owen Wynne, do bd

.. Williams, Druggist, Pwllheli

.. I. Watkin, Tanner, Abereirch

.. H. D. Williams, Surgeon, Llansaintffraid

p. 9HISTORY
OF
CARNARVONSHIRE.

Carnarvonshire, one of the six Counties of North Wales, is bounded on the West by the Irish sea, on the North by the strait called Menai, which divides it from Anglesey; Merionethshire extends along the Southern coast, and Denbighshire limits the Eastern.

As Travellers generally enter this County either along the Conway or Capel Curig Road, it may be more convenient, for their sakes, to commence its History with a short account of the Town and neighbourhood of

CONWAY.

But before we proceed to a description of the Town, it may be necessary to inform the stranger that there is a District of this County, on the Denbighshire, or East side of the River Conway; and whether he be a Botanist, a Mineralogist, a Naturalist, or Antiquary, he may, if he have leisure, spend a few days on this side of the p. 10water with pleasure and advantage.  This detached part of the County of Carnarvon is called Creuddin yn Rhos, and is celebrated for producing very excellent wheat; it contains three Parishes, Llangwstenin, Llan Rhôs, or more properly Llanfair yn Rhôs, and Llandudno.—In and about the ruins of old Diganwy, or Dingonwy, now called y Faerdre, and in Gloddaith woods, the Botanist will find a great number of rare Plants, while the Mineralogist will be tempted to examine the Copper Mines at Llandudno, and the Historian and Antiquary be induced to visit the curious collection of old Books and Manuscripts, in the libraries of Gloddaith and Bodysgallen, (Bod Caswallawn) two old family seats, belonging to Sir Thomas Mostyn Bart. the former built in the time of Queen Elizabeth, since which period it has undergone very little or no alteration, and almost all the old furniture is preserved in the same state.  Marle has also been a fine old house, but was nearly burnt down about seventy years ago; it was at one time the property of the Hollands, then of Sir Gryffydd Williams, of Penrhyn, and on the death of his grandson Sir Robert, it devolved to Sir Thomas Prendergast, an Irish Gentleman, in right of his Lady, Anne, sister to Sir Robert, but at present this house, as well as the Ferry of Conway, art in the possession of Owen Williams, Esq. M.P. for Great Marlow.

p. 11On the very summit of the high Promontory of Ormshead, or Gogarth, is situated the small Church of Llandudno, dedicated to St. Tudno, whose rocking stone (Maen sigl or Cryd-Tudno) is not very far distant.  On the Western side of this Mountain is a tremendous precipice, over-hanging the sea, and these rocks are frequented in the summer season by great numbers of birds of passage; the Gulls occupy the lowest range, above them are the Razor-bills and Guillemots, over these croak the Corvorants, and the Herons possess the uppermost projections and ledges of this stupendous rock; the Peregrine Falcon also builds his nest in these impending crags.  In the days of Falconry these birds were considered so excellent, that the great minister Burleigh, sent a letter of thanks to an ancestor of Sir Thomas Mostyn’s, for a present of a cast of Hawks from this place.  The British name of this hill, Gogarth, seems to be derived from ogo, or gogo, a Cave, and Garth, a Promontory, for there are several caves under this rock, and particularly one very large, inaccessible except by water; not far from it are the ruins of an old Palace, belonging to the Bishops of Bangor; there is also a farm house near the spot, known by the above name, Gogarth.  Mr. Pennant says, (but upon what authority is not known) that this tract of Land was an appendage of the Abbey of Conway.

p. 12The Castle of Deganwy, or Dingonwy, called by the English, Ganoe, and afterwards, by the fault of transcribers, corrupted into Gannock, was celebrated in the wars, between the two nations; the small remains of it are on two hills, not far from the shore of the river, nearly opposite the Town of Conway, but nearer to the sea; there is a house a little below it, which still bears the name, and was lately inhabited by Lord Kirkwall; the walls of the old Castle surrounded these two rocks, and on the summit of one of them is the vestige of a round Tower;—In all probability this, as well as most Welsh Castles, was originally constructed of timber, as it is asserted in our Histories, that it was destroyed by lightning, in the year 810, [12]—the founder of it is not known.  It was afterwards rebuilt, and was for some time in the possession of the Earls of Chester, when it was again destroyed by Llewelyn the Great;—Randle de Blondeville then repaired it, and King John encamped under its walls in p. 13the year 1211, and was reduced to great distress by the skill and prudence of Llewelyn, who contrived to cut off his supplies.  Henry III. suffered still greater calamities near this place, in the year 1245, at which time John de Grey, of Wilton, was Constable; one of his courtiers most pathetically describes their miseries.  At length Diganwy was in 1260 totally dismantled by our last Prince, Llewelyn ap Gryffydd.

Not far from hence, on the top of a hill, is an ancient Tower; its form is circular, its height about 20 feet, the diameter 12; its walls compose only two thirds of a circle, the rest is open.  In all probability it was a Watch Tower, and connected with Diganwy as a place of retreat.  The name of this District, Creuddin, seems to be derived from Creu, or Crau, blood, or gore, and Din, or Dinas, a fortified place; and was so denominated, in all probability, from the many bloody battles fought here between the English and Welsh.  The fine view of Conway Castle and the Bennarth woods, from this side of the river, is greatly and deservedly admired.  The original name of Conway was Caer Gyffin, and it probably was inhabited, and was a place of some strength, prior to the establishment of a Cistercian Abbey here, in 1185, by Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, Prince of North Wales, and it then no doubt increased in opulence and respectability, as the privileges of the members of this community, like many p. 14others of a similar description, were very considerable; in the first place they were to be exempt in all parts from Tolls and Pontage, and they had a right to a free passage over the ferries of the Menai, Conway, Barmouth, and Dyfi, (or Dôfwy) and it was endowed with Lands to a great extent, both in this County and in Anglesey; Caput Wedva vawr, (Snowdon) Crib Goch, near Llanberis, and Morfa Dinlle, are mentioned.  The Castle was built by Edward the first, about the year 1284, who being apprehensive, probably, that he might find these monks and their attendants very unpleasant and troublesome neighbours, he removed them to Maenan, about 8 miles higher up on the Denbighshire side of the river, and not far from Llanrwst, where there is an old family seat belonging to Lord Newborough, which still retains the name of the Abbey.  The town of Conway has four entrances: The upper Gate, the lower, or that next to the River, a Portal between that and the Castle, and another to the Creek called Porth y felin, or the Gate to the mill.  Mr. Pennant’s observation with respect to this place is this, “a more ragged Town is scarcely to be seen within, or a more beautiful one without;” the form is nearly triangular, surrounded with lofty Walls, and guarded by 24 round Towers; the lower face of the triangle borders on the River.  The Castle is built on a lofty rock, at the S. E. p. 15corner, and is generally considered (as the same Historian remarks,) a structure of “matchless magnificence,” and a more beautiful Fortress, perhaps, never arose.  The Architect, Henry Ellerton, or de Elreton, (the person under whose direction Carnarvon Castle was also built) seems to have exerted all his skill here.  It had two entrances, one up a steep rock from the River, with winding stairs, and ending in a small advanced work, before one of the Gates of the Castle, and protected by small round Towers; at the other extremity is a similar work; from which there was a drawbridge into the Town.—Over a great Foss, in one of the great Towers, is a beautiful oriel window.  The form of this Fortress is oblong, one side is bounded by the River, another by a Creek, full of water at every tide; within are two Courts, and on the outside project eight vast Towers, each with a slender one of amazing elegance issuing from its top, within which was a winding staircase.

The great Hall was very magnificent, and was of a curved form, conformable to the bend of the outward Walls, including one end with a large window, which seems to have been the private Chapel; it was one hundred and thirty feet in length, and thirty broad, and of great height; the roof was supported by eight noble Arches, six of which still remain there was a great fireplace at one end, and another on the side, it had p. 16six windows to the country and three to the Court, and beneath it were vast Vaults and Cellars.  The foundation of one of the Towers next the Creek has been undermined, and it is now denominated the Hanging Tower.

Edward the First made this Town a Free Borough, and ordered that the Mayor (who was the Constable of the Castle for the time being) should preserve its privileges.  William Sikun was appointed first to that honor.  At present it is governed by one Alderman, a Recorder, Coroner, Water-bailiff, and two Serjeants at Mace, chosen annually.  Its privileges extended from Carnarvon to the River Clwyd, and no one could be convicted of any crime within its limits, except by a Jury collected in that District, and such was the case with all the other English Garrisons in North Wales.

Conway is a Contributory Borough, with Carnarvon, Pwllheli, Nevin, and Crickaeth, in returning a Member to Parliament.  The Great Sessions for the County were formerly held here, alternately with Carnarvon, but the latter place being more central, enjoys that privilege at present exclusively.  The resident population in this Parish in 1801 was 889.  The Market is on Friday.  Conway is 232 miles N.W. from London.  The passage over the river is attended with many inconveniences, and not many years ago a boat was upset, and several lives lost.  The ferrymen p. 17are said to be very uncivil, and are accused of practising great impositions on strangers. [17]  The regular charge ought to be one penny for a foot passenger, two-pence for a man and horse, and half a crown a wheel for a carriage, but they generally demand more than double these sums, and then importune for liquor.

It is to be hoped that when the improvements now executing on the Shrewsbury road are completed, Government will pay the same attention to the Chester line, and that a Bridge will be erected here, over the Conway; as this is the principal communication between Dublin and the North of England.

Plas mawr, (the great mansion) an old house in the centre of the town, built by Robert Wynne, Esq. a branch of the Gwydir family, in the year 1585, will be likely to attract the traveller’s attention.  Over the gateway are the words Anechou, Apechou, sustine, abstine; and on the House these capital letters, IHS. X.P.S. being the Ancient method of inscribing our Saviour’s name.  The Church, the ruins of an old Abbey, and another old House, called the College, also claim a visit from the stranger.

p. 18Gyffin, a Parish Church, about half a mile off, on the road to Llanrwst, is a Stipendiary Cure, and is generally annexed to Conway.  The late Doctor Jones, Dean of Bangor, left £100. the interest of which he directed to be applied to the keeping of a School here.  The Vicarage of Conway, as well as Gyffin, are in the patronage of the Bishop of Bangor.  On the summit of the hill below the town, and nearly opposite to the bifurcated rock, on which stood the Castle of Diganwy, are the ruins of an ancient fortification, of a circular form, with only one entrance, and this probably is the place mentioned by Leland, in his Itinerary, and which he denominates Sinnodun, and where, he says, there are the remains of a great work; it is described by him as being a mile out of the town, but in what direction is not mentioned.  Camden also mentions a British Post, called Caer Lleion, surrounded by Ditches and strong Ramparts, on a lofty hill, near Conway marsh.  The Castle of Sinnodun is also represented as being situated near this place, in a Map of the County, annexed to a very old edition of that Author’s Britannia.  As this small work is intended merely as a guide to the Tourist, in his excursion through the County, it cannot be expected to contain a very detailed or particular account of every object, which may deserve attention; for this reason the Compiler must pass over the siege of this Castle, p. 19during the Rebellion, in Oliver Cromwell’s time, and merely observe, that the custody of it was committed by the King to Archbishop Williams, of the Penrhyn family, near Bangor, and after the gentlemen and freeholders of the neighbourhood had placed a number of valuable articles under his care, and for which he had given them receipts, and thus became answerable for the property, he was, in 1645, cruelly dispossessed by Prince Rupert, without assigning any reason for this strange conduct; it was taken, however, from the Prince in June, 1646, by General Mytton.  The Archbishop was buried in the Church of Llandegai, near Bangor, where his Monument is still to be seen.

It would puzzle any one, unacquainted with the mistakes and blunders of transcribers, to conjecture how Toisobius should become Ptolemy’s Conobius, or Conovius, (or Conovium) but when we reflect a little, it may be supposed, that the initial C, might be easily mistaken for T, and the v converted into b, so as to form Toinobius, instead of Coinovius.  The derivation of the word Cynwy, seems to be, as Mr. Edward Llwyd conjectures, from Cyn, chief or principal, and Gwy, or wy, water; the prefix cyn, being augmentative, as cyn-gann, very white; cyn-dynn, very stiff; or signifying first or chief, as cynfyd, the old antediluvian world; cyn-ddydd, daybreak; and Dr. Davies supposes cyn to be p. 20synonymous with penn, as cyntaf, penaf, first or chief.  Admitting this, Cungetorix would be Cyntwrch, and Cunobelinus, Cynfelyn, &c.

The River Conway has been celebrated for ages, for its muscle-pearl fishery.  Pliny informs us, that Julius Cæsar dedicated to Venus Genetrix, in her temple at Rome, a Breastplate set with British Pearls; and Suetonius alledges the acquisition of these, as one motive for his invasion of the Island.  Mr. Edward Llwyd asserts that the pearls found in this river are as large, and as well coloured, as any in Great Britain or Ireland, and says that he saw several very fine large ones in the possession of Robert Wynne, Esq. of Bodysgallen.  Mr. Pennant distinguishes this shell-fish by the name of Mya Margaritifera.  A vein of Burr, (a species of Mill-stones) was discovered near Conway, about the year 1800, but being inferior in quality to those brought from France, there is no great demand for them.

The ancient Conovium, for some time the station of the Tenth Roman Legion, was no doubt at Caer Rhun, about five miles up the River, and near the Parish Church of that name; as a Roman Hypocaust, a small Shield, and a great number of Roman Coins were discovered there, by the late Rev. Hugh Davies Griffith, late Vicar of the Parish, a gentleman of great worth and integrity, highly esteemed and respected in his neighbourhood, and a person who had p. 21a great taste for the study of Antiquities.  And what renders this conjecture more probable is this, that there is a hill not far distant, which is still called Mynydd Caer Lleon, or the Hill of the Legion.  The Rev. W. Brickdale, at that time Rector of Llanrwst, saw several Roman bricks, dug up near the Church of Caer Rhun, which were inscribed LEG. X.  This Legion was denominated Antoniana Augusta.  The XXth, stationed at Chester, (Caer Lleon Gawr, or Caer Lleion ar Ddyfrdwy) was distinguished by the name Vicessima Victrix, and the Second Legion, stationed at Caer Leon, in Monmouthshire, or Caer Lleon ar Wysc, was known by the title of Augusta Britannica.  And there was (no doubt) a Roman Road from hence to Segontium on the West, and to Varium or Bodvarri and Caerwys, on the East, and another probably through Dolyddelen, to Sarn Helen and Tommen y Mur, in Merionethshire; Pen y street, Dolgelley; Castell y Beri, near Tal y Llynn, to Penal near Machynlleth, where there was a Roman encampment, and where very considerable remains were discovered.

The admirer of picturesque and romantic Scenery would, no doubt, consider his time well employed, and find his propensity amply gratified, were he to deviate here, from the direct road to Bangor and Carnarvon, and trace the Conway to its source, or at least to its junction p. 22with the Lledr and Machno; he would then pass very near Caer Rhun, the ancient Conovium, and in proceeding along the banks of this beautiful River, would be able to visit a great number of Water-falls, and he would find the Scenery constantly changing, and new beauties presenting themselves to his view, at almost every turn of the road.  My limits will merely allow me to enumerate some of the objects which claim his attention, and ought to be visited, which are the numerous Cascades on the right, between Llanbedr (near Caer Rhun) and Trevriw; the old House of Gwydir, and its beautiful woods; the town of Llanrwst, and particularly the old Monuments in the Church, to the memory of the Wynne’s, the ancient Proprietors of Gwydir, and the handsome Bridge over the Conway, supposed to have been erected by the celebrated Inigo Jones, who is said to have been a native of that neighbourhood.  Near this town are also several Lead Mines.  The traveller will then proceed through the Gwydir woods, up to the Village of Bettws y Coed, and the new Iron Waterloo Bridge, over the Conway, on the Great Irish Road; he will next visit the falls of the Conway and Machno, and then return to Bettws, and proceed up the river Lligwy; when about half way between that Village and Capel Curig Inn, he will stop to view Rhaidr y Wennol, a tremendous Cateract, and from the last mentioned p. 23Inn, he may either continue his rout along the Irish road to Bangor, or direct his course to Bethgelert Village, which is a stage of twelve miles, or turn off on the right from that road, after he has proceeded about four miles, for the Village of Llanberris, through its wonderful pass, and from the new Inn, which we shall have occasion hereafter to notice, he will be able to procure a guide to the summit of Snowdon.  But as most strangers will no doubt proceed from Conway to Bangor, it shall be my endeavour to act as their guide, and mention some of the particulars which are worth their attention along this line of road: For the first two miles he will proceed up hill, until he comes to an opening between two rocks, near a place called Sychnant, when all of a sudden a most magnificent scene presents itself: from hence he commands a full view of Beaumaris Bay, generally covered with a number of small vessels; the Puffin, or Priestholm Island, the Village of Llangoed, the Town of Beaumaris, Baron Hill, and the Friars; the former the beautiful seat of Lord Viscount Bulkeley, and the latter that of his brother, Sir Robert Williams, Baronet, M.P. all on the Anglesey shore;—On the Carnarvonshire side, Bangor and Penrhyn Castle, and last, though not least, the huge Pen-maen-mawr, protruding its rocky front into the sea, forming a natural barrier, in such manner (to all appearance) as to cut off every communication p. 24this way, and render any further progress impracticable; the art of man has, however, at length conquered these difficulties, and surmounted every obstacle, for about the year 1772 an excellent road was formed along the edge of this once tremendous and dangerous precipice, under the direction of the ingenious Mr. Sylvester, Parliament having generously voted a grant for this purpose.  Prior to this event several fatal accidents had happened here, and one or two nearly miraculous escapes are recorded in Mr. Pennant’s Tour through North Wales.  At that time no carriages passed this way, and consequently all the travelling was either on foot or on horseback.  Dean Swift was generally a Pedestrian, and in one of his rambles he left these lines, written on a pane of glass at the old Inn, (now a Farm House) near this Mountain:—

Before you venture here to pass,
Take a good refreshing glass;—
And when you are over, take another,
Your fainting spirits to recover.

Before the Traveller descends from the top of Sychnant, just mentioned, to the little Vale of Dwygyfylchi, he should deviate a little to the left, in order to examine some Antiquities, near a place called Gwddw Glâs, in that Parish; here are several circles of stones of various diameters, and large Carneddau, viz. Barrows, or Tumuli, supposed to have been memorials of those Heroes who fell in the field of battle, as Cistfaens, or p. 25Stone Coffins, are frequently discovered in some of these circular heaps, or collections of stones.  The principal Circle now consists of ten upright stones, at unequal distances, the largest is eight feet three inches high; on the ground is another, eleven feet two; the diameter of this Circle is eighty feet.  Near this are four other smaller Circles, in the centre of one is a flat stone, the remains of a Cromlech, from which it may be conjectured that it was a Druidical or Bardic Circle.  About a quarter of a mile from these is a large Circle, composed of small stones, and near it another of large stones; and not far from these another Circle, composed of small ones.—Near the last is a huge upright stone, called Maen y Campiau, or the Stone of Games; and nearly contiguous is a Carnedd, and a small Circle of twelve stones; adjoining to these are also a great number of what are now called in this country, Cyttiau Gwyddelod, (Woodmen or Irishmen’s Huts) being the foundations of small buildings, made of rounded stones; and the vestige of a road is still visible in a direction from hence towards the Conway.  Some of these last might probably have been the summer habitations or encampment of a small detachment of the Roman legion, stationed at Caer Rhun or Conovium, for the purpose of protecting their Cattle.  Having mentioned Maen y Campian, it may not perhaps be considered a digression to p. 26enumerate the twenty-four Welsh or British Games, of which there were ten Gwrolgampau, or manly games, viz. 1.  To lift up great weights; 2.  Running; 3.  Leaping; 4.  Swimming; 5.  Wrestling; 6.  Riding.  These six were stiled Tadogion, viz. pertaining to fathers, or grown up persons, and required only bodily strength and activity; this last, Marchogaeth, is supposed to have included Charioteering, or the skilful driving and management of different kinds of carriages.  The other four were, 1.  Archery; 2.  Playing with the Sword and Buckler; 3.  Playing with the Cleddau deuddwrn, or two-handed Sword; 4.  Chwarau ffonn ddwybig, or playing with the two-end Staff or Spear.  Next to these were the ten Mabolgampau, or those more peculiarly adapted to young men, viz. 1.  Coursing; 2.  Fishing; 3.  Fowling; the remaining seven were of the domestic kind: 1.  Barddoniaeth, or Poetical Composition; 2.  Chwareu’r Delyn, or paying upon the Harp; 3.  Reading Welsh; 4.  Singing with the Harp; 5.  Singing between three or four, most probably in alternate Stanzas, or Pennillion; 6.  Drawing or Painting, particularly Coats of Arms; 7.  Heraldry.  After these were four Gogampiau, or Minor Games, viz. 1.  Chwarau Gwydd-bwyll, a game similar to that of Draughts; 2.  Chwarau Tawl-Bwrdd, probably Back-gammon, as this word is supposed to be derived from the Welsh Language, viz. Bach, p. 27little, and Cammawn, or Gammon, Battle, and Tewl-Bwrdd, means the toss on the table; 3.  Chwarau Ffristeal, or the Game of the Dice Box, in what manner it was played is not known at present; 4.  Cyweiriaw Telyn, or the Tuning of the Harp.

After visiting these Circles, the traveller may either proceed to the top of Pen-maen-mawr, or descend to the high road, near Dwygyfylchi Church, not far from which, just at the foot of Pen-maen-bach, is Pendyffryn, the seat of T. Smith, Esq.—In the clefts of the rock, above the Turnpike-gate, near Pen-maen-mawr, grows the Cratægus aria, or White Beam Tree; Mr. Pennant observes that the Swiss procure a good kind of Ardent Spirit from the berries.  The summit of this mountain seems to have been fortified by two or three walls, one within the other; and there are still visible the remains of a great number of Huts, or small buildings, most probably at one time the habitations of Soldiers; it was no doubt a strong military Post, and is supposed to have been made use of by the Britons and Romans.  The Roman Road, from Segontium to Conovium, must have passed near it, probably on the South side; and this high mountain, so conspicuous and so easily distinguished at a distance, formed a kind of link, no doubt, in the military chain of communication p. 28between this County and Denbighshire, as it is very visible from Dinorwick, (now called Pen Dinas) a Roman Encampment in the Parish of Llanddeiniolen, near Carnarvon, on the West, and from many fortified eminences in the other County, on the East.  The usual signals in ancient times were fires by night, and a particular kind of flag by day.  Having examined Braich y Dinas, which is the name by which the fortified part of the mountain is distinguished, we now proceed along the high road through the Parish of Llanfair fechan, and leaving that small Church on an eminence, a little to the left of the road, and on the right Brynn y Neuadd, an old neglected family seat, at one time the property of Humphrey Roberts, Esq. and afterwards conveyed to the Wynne’s of Plas Newydd, near Denbigh, by the marriage of his daughter to a son of that family, we soon pass Gorddinog, (Mrs. Crawley’s) also on the left, and soon reach the beautiful little Village of Aber, situated near a small river, and at the entrance of a narrow Glenn.  Near the Bridge is a Circular Mount, seemingly artificial, which was the foundation of a small Castle, probably constructed of timber, as many of our Welsh Fortresses are stated to have been consumed by fire.  Several of the Welsh Princes resided occasionally at this place, and David ap Llywelyn died here, about the year 1246, and was buried in the Abbey of Conway.

p. 29Traces of Buildings have been discovered near this spot, which were probably the remains of the Prince’s Palace, as the inhabitants still pretend to shew strangers the foundation of the old kitchen.  Several Memorials, &c. appear in our Welsh Histories, dated Aber Garth Celyn, which is the ancient name by which this place was distinguished.  William de Breos, (son of Reginald, a potent Baron in the Reign of Henry III.) who had been taken prisoner by the Welsh Prince Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, was detected in an intrigue with Joan his wife, (daughter to the King of England).  The enraged Prince, upon the discovery of her infidelity, caused her paramour to be hung on the side of the opposite hill; and there is a tradition, that the Princess going out the next morning, and accidentally meeting the Bard of the Palace, the latter (knowing that she was ignorant of the fate of her lover) accosted her in the following poetical rhyme:

Diccyn, doccyn, gwraig Llywelyn,
Beth a roit ti am welad Gwilym?

that is, “Tell me wife of Llywelyn, what you would give for a sight of your William?” to which she answered:—

Cymru, Lloegr a Llywelyn,
Y rown i gyd am weled Gwilym!

i.e. Wales and England, and Llywelyn,
I would give them all to see my William!

The Bard, on receiving this answer, shewed him to her, hanging on a tree, on the side of a hill, p. 30at a place now called Wern Grogedig.  It is added in Camden, “Tradition buries De Breos in a Cave, in a field called Cae Gwilym Ddu.” [30]  Nearly at the extremity of this romantic Glenn, about a mile from the Village, the River forms a noble Cataract, precipitating itself down the front of a bold lofty rock, and making a double fall, the lowest of which is of very considerable height.  This Village is much frequented in the summer season, and the accommodations at the Inn are very good.  The beach, at high water, is very convenient for sea-bathing, and many strangers remain here some time for that purpose.  There is a road from hence, over the mountain, by Bwlch y Ddau Faen, to Tal y Cafn ferry, Llanbedr and Llanrwst; and another over the sands to Beaumaris, but this latter is not to be attempted by a stranger without a guide.  It is remarked by Mr. Pennant that all the Passes between the mountains were guarded by Forts and Castles, for besides this at Aber, Craig y Gaer and Maes y Gaer were fortified; and there was a Fort at Nant Ffranco; (or Nant Afangcwn) near Pont y Twr, another at Dolbadarn, p. 31Nant Pevis; Castell Cidwm, Nant y Bettws; Craig y Dinas, near Llanllyfni; a Fort near Dolbenmaen, and an old Cattle at Dolydd Elen, and Dinas Emrys, in Nant Gwynant, near Bethgelert.  Lord Bulkeley is the proprietor of the greatest part of the Parish of Aber, and he has been a great benefactor to this Church, as well as to all the others in his Lordship’s Patronage, having built a tower (or Steeple) to each, at his own expence, and furnished them with Bells.  The distance from hence to Bangor is about five miles, and as the stranger proceeds he cannot help admiring the ever-varying Scene, and the beauty of the prospects which present themselves to his view: On the Anglesey shore, the Town of Beaumaris, Baron Hill, The Friars, Red Hill, &c. claim his attention; and directly before him, on the Carnarvonshire side, he will perceive the Village and much-admired Church of Llandegai, and near it Penrhyn Woods and Castle, rising in Majestic grandeur.  The Church of Llandegai has lately been very much improved and beautified, by means of a very handsome Legacy, left by the late Lady Penrhyn for that purpose.  The whole of the interior has been renewed, viz. the Seats, Pulpit, Communion, Ceiling, Plastering, and Floor, and the Tower raised, in order to admit a Peal of Six Bells, a Legacy for which having been also left by Lady Penrhyn, as well as one for the erection of a Monument to her deceased p. 32Lord, which is now fixed up in the Church, and is a most superb and elegant piece of work; it is made of Statuary Marble, and represents two Figures, one a Quarryman, with an Iron Bar and Slate knife in his hand, reading the inscription, and reflecting on the loss of his benefactors, the other is a female Peasant Girl, weeping over the loss of her deceased Lord and Lady; there are some other smaller Figures, very descriptive of the progress of improvement amongst the Peasantry, under the directing influence of his Lordship.

Whilst we are speaking of Llandegai Village and Church, we must not omit here to notice a very great improvement, and accommodation to the public, which has been effected, at very considerable expence, through the liberality of Mr. Pennant, we mean the new piece of road, to the left, made to avoid that dangerous and ugly hill near the Church.  This part of the County has within the last thirty years been abundantly improved by the late Lord Penrhyn, under the judicious management and direction of Benjamin Wyatt, Esq. of Lime Grove, his Lordship’s Agent, two individuals who were real benefactors to the Country, and whose names have every claim to the grateful recollections not only of the inhabitants of this neighbourhood, but of all those whom business or pleasure may induce to enter this County, by way of Capel Curig and Nant p. 33Ffrancon, which is now the great Post Road from Shrewsbury to Holyhead.  At the former place, an Inn, upon a very commodious and extensive scale, has been erected by the late Lord Penrhyn; and his successor, Mr. Pennant, with the view of giving greater facility and convenience to Travellers, has lately erected there a Cottage and Stables near the road, in order to give those who might find it inconvenient to go down to the Inn, an opportunity of changing horses at the road, and also for the better accommodation of the Mail and Stage Coaches; he has likewise built new Stables at Tynymaes, and made the Inn there into a Posting House, to divide that long and tedious stage, which used to be from Capel Curig to Bangor-ferry.  Capel Curig is distant from Bangor about 15 miles, S.W.—The road to it is carried up the romantic and stupendous Valley of Nant Ffrancon.  The formation of such a road, in so rude and unfrequented a region, was one of the earliest and most important improvements which the late Lord Penrhyn effected, in this part of the Country; it has since undergone, in proportion to the increase of pecuniary resources, and to the progress of other local improvements, frequent alterations, and is now, from the munificence of Government, who have lately taken this affair into their own hands, one of the most perfect and magnificent roads, in the kingdom.  But, important as this work was, p. 34at its commencement, under the public spirit of Lord Penrhyn, it is far from being all which was accomplished or promoted by that patriotic nobleman.  The following extract from a memoir of the late Mr. Wyatt, published in the North Wales Gazette for January, 1818, will give us a more enlarged view of this matter:—

“It was by so able an exercise of his judgment and taste, that the domain of Penrhyn, at that period a very wilderness, disregarded as a place of residence, and the house in a state of venerable dilapidation, was heightened into its present circumstances of dignified and stately elegance—that a wild and unprofitable morass has since been made to assume, in the admired situation and arrangements of Lime Grove, the features of comfort, of profit, and of ornament—that the agricultural properties of the Estate were promoted into a condition of progressive improvement; the cottage of the labourer, and the habitation of the tenantry, in many instances, into dwellings of neatness and comfort to themselves, giving animation, variety, and interest to the scenery which surrounded them—that such excellent facilities were effected for bringing into light and action, the hidden and long neglected treasures of the slate rock on the banks of the Ogwen; which, through a happy union of subsequent commercial interests, and the spirited manner in which those interests are conducted, p. 35are now so richly swelled into a stream of affluence to the proprietor, and of honest industry and subsistence to many hundreds of the poor.—Such are a few, but far from being all the testimonies, which this country now exhibits of the judgment and abilities of the late Mr. Wyatt; nor ought we, indeed, to have omitted in this short catalogue, as remarkable monuments of his well-cultivated taste, the noble marine Baths at Penrhyn, the fascinating and graceful Villa at Ogwen Bank, and the characteristic order and embellishments of the Dairy farm at Pen-isa-nant.”

The Slate Quarry is distant about six miles from Bangor, on the road to Capel Curig, and is in every respect worthy of a visit from the Tourist; it exhibits a most interesting and surprising display of art and industry, from 7 to 800 men being in constant employment there, and the vast excavation, which from near thirty years labour at it, is now made into the heart of the mountain, presents to the view a variety of picturesque and magnificent scenery, richly deserving the inspection of the artist.  Within half a mile of the Slate Quarry is Ogwen Bank, an elegant and romantic little retreat—a perfect bijou, designed by the late Lord Penrhyn, and still used by the family, as an occasional resort for refreshment and recreation, on paying a morning visit to the Quarry, or other objects of curiosity in the vicinity.  Near to this is Pen-issa-nant, formerly p. 36intended as a Dairy and Poultry Farm to Penrhyn Castle, for which purposes, the most ample, elegant, and ingenious arrangements were made, and the house designed and fitted up with peculiar simplicity and prettiness, perfectly correspondent with the nature of its object.  These two places are accessible to all respectable visitors; the road to them, from Bangor, abounds in grand and interesting prospects.—Penrhyn Castle and Woods, at all times a rich and remarkable feature in the Scenery—the Sea, bounded by the distant Promontory of Ormes Head—the protruding bulkiness of Pen-maen-mawr—the bold and mighty barrier of Mountains, forming the most picturesque lines with the horizon, and extending nearly all round the distant Scene—these are the chief ingredients of this distinguished and beautiful landscape.  The present proprietor of Penrhyn Castle is G. H. D. Pennant, Esq. to whom the property was left.  This gentleman seems to possess a spirit of improvement no less active than his noble predecessor.  The Park, which till within these few years formed the domain to this stately residence, has been very extensively enlarged by the present proprietor, who has enclosed the same by a wall of considerable length, which is done in a manner deserving the example of others, for its neat, strong, and masterly work;—the coping of the wall is peculiarly handsome, and characteristic of the county, p. 37being formed of the waste ends of the Slate rock, fixed in a rough and uneven manner, giving the whole a bold and substantial appearance.—Within the precincts of this Park, and protruding a considerable distance into the sea, is a very handsome building, containing a large private sea-water bath, with warm baths contiguous to it.  This edifice is understood to have cost the late Lord Penrhyn not less than £4000. and perhaps not to be equalled for elegance and commodiousness in the kingdom.  Penrhyn Castle is itself a modern building, (with the exception of one small circular Tower) and was erected by Lord Penrhyn, from designs of the late Samuel Wyatt, Esq., a brother of his Lordship’s Agent, before-mentioned.  The principal rooms are commodious and elegant, particularly the Drawing-room, which is a very stately and handsome apartment, but the Architecture of the house cannot be said fairly to bear any technical character; being neither of the Grecian, Roman, Gothic, nor English domestic stile, but an insipid and unmeaning attempt at all.  Rumour however says, that the present proprietor contemplates some very important improvements.  The situation is one which has every claim to a noble and distinguished edifice.

Lime Grove, the neat and appropriate residence of Mr. Wyatt, the Agent of Mr. Pennant, (and son of the former Mr. Wyatt, before alluded p. 38to) is situated in the lower part of Penrhyn Park, to the West; this house was also planned by the late S. Wyatt, Esq. and in point of chasteness and technical purity, is more creditable to his taste than the greater work at Penrhyn Castle.  The grounds, and what may be called the rural economy of Lime Grove, have ever been deservedly admired.

Contiguous to this part of Penrhyn Park, and to the North West of it, is Port Penrhyn.—This is a very noble and commodious arrangement, made for the accommodation of the Merchant Vessels, employed for the conveyance of the Slate from the afore-mentioned Quarry, to different parts of the Kingdom, and for receiving and stowing the productions of that Quarry until they are lodged on board the Vessels waiting to receive them.  The vastly increasing demand for these Slates, [38] necessarily requires a proportionate scale of the means for supplying it, consequently the Quay, at Port Penrhyn, has lately undergone very considerable enlargement, by the present proprietor, G. H. D. Pennant, Esq. which alike does credit to his liberal spirit in projecting it, as to the builder in its masterly execution; it will accommodate 50 sail, in addition to the old Quay, and will greatly facilitate p. 39the Trade there.  The beautiful Bridge too, which Mr. Pennant is now building over the Cegin, at Port Penrhyn, will considerably improve the communication between that place and the Town of Bangor, and be a great public accommodation in other respects, at the same time it makes a handsome finish to the Pier, which we understand to be upwards of 300 yards in length, and we have no hesitation in saying that when the whole is completed, it will form one of the most complete Shipping places in the Principality.  The Slates are conveyed from the Quarry, in Nant Ffrancon, to this Port, a distance of 8 miles, by means of small waggons, linked together in succession, and running upon a rail-road.  The expedition and facility with which the Slates are thus conveyed from the Quarry to the Ships is very remarkable.

Proceeding from Port Penrhyn to Bangor, the situation of the Inn, called the Penrhyn Arms, at less than a quarter of a mile from the Port, on the brow of the hill, is well worthy of observation.  The view from the Bowling-green, attached to this house, is very celebrated, and deservedly so.  The component parts of this fine picture need not be detailed to the stranger, who visits and sees it—but in a word it may be said to be a most majestic, impressive and interesting Scene.

From this rich and animating display of nature’s p. 40works, we must now (as faithful pioneers through the County of Carnarvon) turn our eyes to the works of Art in this neighbourhood; the first that presents itself is the great Post Road, from Shrewsbury to Holyhead, which has been lately much altered, and in many places in this vicinity entirely diverted from the old line.  It has been found necessary, in order to render the ascent near the Penrhyn Arms easier, to cut about 12 or 15 feet deep, and one or two hundred in length, and to throw an Archway over, to preserve the communication from the above Inn to the Terrace, a handsome mansion, and in point of Scenery, beautifully situated, but which, from the above-mentioned excavation, seems to the passing Traveller, to rest on an insecure foundation.  But before we proceed farther, and that we may preserve uniformity, it will be necessary to present our readers with a short History of

BANGOR.

So called from Bann and Cor, the great or lofty Choir, (and not from Pen-chor, as Mr. Nicholas Owen supposes); it is an episcopal See, and a small Market Town, situated in a narrow defile, near a small brook called Tor onnen, (as Leland informs us) opening gradually to the Sea, Eastward, which comes within less than a quarter of a mile of the Town.  St. Dubricius, (called by the Welsh Dufrig Ben eurog) who was Archbishop p. 41of Caerlleon, upon Usk, in Monmouthshire, is said to have consecrated Daniel ap Dunod, first Bishop of this See, about the year 550.  This Daniel or Deiniol, according to the Welsh Records, was Abbot of Bangor Iscoed, in Flintshire, from whence he retired to this place, where he founded a College, for the instruction of youth, and it is supposed to have continued a Cell or Member of the other Bangor, until it was converted into a Bishoprick by Prince Maelgun Gwynedd.  The above St. Dubritius is reported to have resigned in favour of St. David, and to have retired to the Island of Bardsey, (Enlli) after having assisted at the Synod of Brevi, (now called Llanddewi Brevi, in Cardiganshire) which circumstance is commemorated in the following Welsh lines:

Pan oedd Saint Senedd Brevi,
(Drwy arch y Prophwydi)
Ar ôl gwiw Bregeth Dewi
Yn myned i Ynys Enlli.

“When the Saints of the Synod of Brevi, after the good sermon of St. David, were going (by the direction of the Prophets) to the Island of Bardsey.”

The extent of this Diocese, at that time, is uncertain; but the present comprehends all Anglesey and Carnarvonshire, except the following parishes, situated on the East of the river Conway, viz. Llysvaen, Eglwys Rhôs, and Llangwstenin, which are in the Diocese of St. Asaph; p. 42in Denbighshire it has fourteen Parishes; seven in Montgomeryshire, and the greatest part of Merionethshire is also in this Diocese.

The Cathedral is a venerable Gothic building, spacious and convenient, but, at present it may be considered, in some measure, in a dilapidated state, as the Chapter have been waiting some time for the Lord Chancellor’s decision as to the quantum of Grant, which his Lordship may consider necessary to allow, in order to put the Fabric in complete repair.  Its dimensions are as follows, the North and South Cross Aisles are 30 feet 6 inches, North and South, and 25 East and West, so that the whole length of the Cross Aisle, from North to South, is 86 feet the inside.  From the Arch which opens to the Choir, to the East end of the Stalls, is 27 feet, from thence to the East end of the Bishop’s Throne 6 feet, and from thence to the Altar 21 feet, whole length of the Choir 54 feet, which added to the space of the cross Aisle 25 feet, the Nave 110 feet, Steeple 19 feet, makes the whole length from East to West, 208.  The breadth of the Choir, from wall to wall, is 26 feet 6 inches, the breadth of the Stalls 4 feet, 6 inches, that of the Choristers seats nearly 3 feet; the height of the Choir and Nave 34 feet, of the Aisle 24 feet; thickness of the Walls which support the Arches in the North and South Aisles is 4 feet.  The Chapter Room was repaired and partly rebuilt p. 43in Bishop Moore’s time, and the Nave new roofed in that of Warren.  There are now belonging to this Cathedral, a Bishop, (H. W. Majendie, D.D.) a Dean, (J. Warren, B.D.) three Archdeacons, two of which were annexed to the Bishopric by Act of Parliament, A.D. 1685, a Treasurer, and two Prebendaries, endowed; a Precentor, [43] Chancellor, and three Canons, not endowed; two Vicars Choral, an Organist, four Lay Clerks, Choristers, and other officers.—About the year 975, King Edgar coming into North Wales, at Bangor confirmed the ancient privileges of the Church, and bestowed Lands upon it, and caused a new Church to be founded on the South side of the Cathedral, dedicated to the blessed Virgin, which Church or Chapel was, by Dean Kyffin, converted into a Chantry of singing Priests; this place is supposed to have been the same which afterwards became the residence of the Vicar.  Anion, (or Eineon) Archdeacon of Anglesey, became Bishop about the year 1268, and is reported to have held a Synod at St. Mary’s de Garth Brannan, the ancient Parish Church of Bangor, now entirely down, since the year 1291, but which is supposed to have been about 400 yards from the Cathedral.  He also christened Edward the Second, in Carnarvon p. 44Castle, April 25th, 1284, and for this and other services, had several Manors or Regalities bestowed upon him and his successors, as the Manor of Treffos, (said to have been afterwards the residence of the Bishops of Bangor for some years) and some Cantreds in the Island of Anglesey, the Ferries of Porthaethwy and Cadnant, over the Menai, the Manors of Bangor, Castellmai and Garth Gogo, (now Gogarth).  In his time also the house in London was given.  The offices secundum usum Bangor, were recovered by Bishop Humphreys, from a private library, and new bound, by the direction and at the expence of the late Dr. John Jones; it was compiled by Bishop Anian, (Eineon) or at least given by him.  The Cathedral was destroyed in the year 1071, and was soon afterwards re-built, for we find that in 1212, King John invaded the country, forced the Bishop (Robert of Shrewsbury) from before the Altar, and obliged him to pay two hundred Hawks for his ransom.  In the year 1402, it was again reduced to ruin, by the rage of Owen Glyndwr, and continued neglected for ninety years, when the Choir was restored by Bishop Dean or Deny.  The present body and tower were erected by that liberal Prelate Bishop Skeffington, as appears by the following inscription, at the West end, “Thomas Skevington, Episcopus Bangoriæ, hoc campanile et Ecclesiam fieri fecit Ann. partus 1532.”  The height p. 45of the Tower is about sixty feet, it was to have been raised considerably higher, but the death of the Bishop prevented the execution of that design.  The windows were made or glazed according to the custom of the times, by the piety of different persons, among whom may be reckoned Dean Kyffin, and some of the Griffiths of Penrhyn.  Bishop Lloyd gave the Bells.  On the South side of the Choir is a Mural Monument of Bishop Morgan, who died September, 1673, aged 65, also another in memory of Anne, daughter of Bishop Humphreys.  The Busts of Bishops Vaughan and Rowlands, which were decapitated, and otherwise disfigured in the fanatical times of Oliver Cromwell, were removed in 1810.  Bishop H. Rowlands erected the Monument in memory of Bishop Vaughan, as a token of his affection; he died Bishop of London, A.D. 1607.  Bishop Edward Griffith is supposed to have been buried near this spot.  Bishop Rowlands died July 1616, and is here buried, ætatis 65; here also is buried Bishop Lloyd ob. 15th Feb. 1688, ætat. 78.  About the space of two stones off lie Bishop Nich. Robinson and Bishop Robert Morgan, both in one grave; the stone is or was partly covered by the rails; Morgan died September, 1673, aged 65.  Bishops Bailey and Meyrick were buried on the South of the Communion Table.  One stone with a plate upon it, is this inscription: “Gulielmus p. 46Glynn natus in Insula Mona, &c.” he was Bishop of Bangor in 1555.  That wise and valiant Prince, Owen Gwynedd, is supposed to have been buried beneath an Arch, with a flowery Cross cut on a flat stone; he died regretted by his countrymen and feared by his foes, in 1169.  On the floor is a mutilated figure, in brass, designed for Richard Kyffin, the active Dean of the Cathedral, in the Reigns of Richard III. and Henry VII.  He was a strenuous friend to the house of Lancaster, and when he was Prebendary of Llanddwyn, and resident there as Rector of the place, he concerted, in conjunction with Sir Rhys (or Rice) ap Thomas, of Dinevor, and other Welsh Chieftains, a plan for the bringing in the Duke of Richmond, then in Brittany, to whom they transmitted, by means of fishing Vessels, all the necessary intelligence.  He died the 13th of August 1502.  The place of his interment was till within these few years (and probably may be so still) distinguished by the name of Bedd y Deon Du, or the grave of the black Dean, who was so called, in all probability, from his complexion.  It appears, from the Sebright MSS. that our wise and brave Prince Griffith ap Cynan, was interred on the left side of the great Altar, in the year 1137, and that an elegant shrine was erected over his grave, of which however not a vestige now remains.  In the Parish Church of Llandegai, before-mentioned, is still to be seen p. 47a mural Monument, with a long Latin inscription, to the memory of the celebrated John Williams, Archbishop of York, in the time of Charles the First; he is represented in his episcopal Dress, kneeling at an Altar.  This great Prelate was born at Conway; his father, Edmund, was sixth son of the neighbouring family of Cochwillan, and a branch of that of Penrhyn; his life was written by Bishop Hackett, and the late Rev. Sneyd Davies, after viewing the Monument, wrote a beautiful little Poem, which is preserved in Dodsley’s Collections.  Here is also an Alabaster Monument of an armed Man and his Lady, recumbent; they probably belonged to the neighbouring House, but on the dissolution were removed from the Friery of Llanvaes in Anglesey, where the persons represented had been interred.

The Bishop’s Palace is an irregular building situate on the side of the Hill, about one hundred yards to the North of the Cathedral; it was partly re-built by Bishop Warren, and several handsome and commodious apartments added to it, and it has been in other respects greatly improved by the present worthy Prelate, Dr. Majendie.  The residence of the Dean is nearly adjoining the Church-yard, at the N. W. end of the Cathedral.

Nearly on the same spot where the Bangor Free Grammar School now stands, a House of Friers Preachers was founded, according to p. 48Bishop Tanner, about the year 1276, by Tudor ap Gronow, Lord of Penmynydd and Trecastell, in Anglesey, who also enlarged or rebuilt it in 1299, and was interred here in 1311.  Leland’s words are “A Priory of White Freres, by Bangor, dedicate to Jesu: there were once White Freres at Ruthin Dyffryn Clwyd.”  Edward VI. made a grant of this place to Thomas Brown and William Bretton, and soon after it was converted into a Free School, by Geffry Glynn, LL.D. an Advocate in Doctor’s Commons, and brother to Bishop Glynn.  By his Will, proved July 21, 1557, he left the management of it to his brother, and to Maurice Griffith, Bishop of Rochester; but the settlement not having been completed prior to their decease, they delegated the same power to Sir William Petre and others, who agreed on the Statutes for the Master and Usher, with the concurrence of the Bishop, Dean, and Chapter, and of Alexander Nowel, Dean of St. Paul’s, who is said to have composed them.—Mr. Pennant, in his Tour, informs us that over the chimney piece, in the old School House, there was a fragment of an ancient Monument, to one Gryffydd, with a long sword carved on it, and on the staircase another stone, with the words ap Tudor, probably part of the Tomb of the founder, Tudor ap Gronw ap Tudor.  A new School-room, together with a spacious and convenient dwelling-house for the Master, adjoining, p. 49was erected here in the time of Bishop Warren, and some new regulations made with regard to the management of the School.  Within the last few years a new house has also been built, a little to the East of the former, for the residence of the Usher.  This Seminary is at present extremely well conducted, and deservedly held in great repute: From having been for many years the third in eminence, (Beaumaris and Ruthin being long considered as superior to it) this establishment is now the most flourishing place of education in this portion of the principality.

Bishop Rowlands, born at Plas Myllteyrn, in Lleyn, founded here an Hospital, or rather an Alms-house, for six poor men, and also a Free School, at Bottwnog in this County, about the year 1616.  The Dispensary, a most useful and benevolent Institution was established in this City, October, 1809, being the 50th Anniversary of our late good King’s Accession, and the year of Jubilee, under the patronage of that excellent Nobleman, Lord Viscount Bulkeley, the Lord Bishop of the Diocese, the worthy Dean, and many other Noblemen and Gentlemen.  It is with heart-felt satisfaction we are able to add, that its Funds continue on the increase, and every attention is paid to the numerous patients, by Dr. Mason, the Physician; Mr. Roberts, the Surgeon, and Mr. Pugh, the House Apothecary.

p. 50The following tribute, to the memory of Mr. Edwards, the celebrated blind Harper, who died at his sister’s, (Mrs. Jones, Pen yr Allt, Bangor) on Friday, the 13th January, 1815, aged 65, may not be unacceptable to the reader, the author is unknown:

Ah! quench’d is now that Minstrel’s fire,
   And mute those strings, whose magic tone
Could once e’en Cambria’s Rocks inspire,
   And move to life her mountain stone.

Cold is the hand, that once could sweep
   The native Harp, with Bardic sway;
Could lull each passion rude to sleep,
   And drive the steps of care away.

Ah come ye kindred Minstrels here,
   To kiss the Harp your master sway’d,
And o’er it drop the mournful tear,
   And let it in his grave be laid.

For now like him ’tis mute and dead,
   Its accents all are hush’d and still;
The power is gone—the spirit fled,
   And every nerve in death is chill.

But shall that spirit rise no more,
   And shall its powers no more revive,
And, on this “Muse deserted shore,”
   Shall no such Bard hereafter live?

Oh! Cambria, scorn the hateful dream,
   And raise thy drooping downcast head;
Nor longer drop the pearly stream,
   Not longer mourn thy Minstrel dead.

For yet some Heaven-taught child of thine,
   In ages yet unborn may rise;
Some sapling of this Minstrel’s line,
   And lift thy glory to the skies.

A new Market House, Town Hall, &c. have lately been built here, which is at once an improvement to the Town, and a convenience to farmers and others of the neighbourhood; a good Inn, on a commodious plan, adjoins it called the Waterloo Tavern.  Several mean unsightly p. 51dwellings, at the East end of the Church-yard, have been taken down, and a new House erected for the residence of one of the Vicars.  In short, from the speculative spirit of the inhabitants, and the increasing demand for Slates at Port Penrhyn, which, as well as the Quay at Hirael, is generally crowded not only with small craft, but with Ships of considerable burthen, Bangor seems advancing rapidly into consequence; it is also of late years become a place of fashionable resort, particularly in the Summer season.  The population, according to the last Census, in 1811, was 2393, and it may now be stated at nearly 3000.  The principal Inns, are the Castle, near the Cathedral, Crown and Anchor, and Waterloo Tavern in the Centre; the Penrhyn Arms at the East, and the Vaynol Arms at the West end of the Town.

Hugh Lupus, in his barbarous inroads into Anglesey, founded a Castle at Bangor, in order to carry on his ravages with greater security; it was situated nearly a quarter of a mile Eastward of the Town, on the ridge of hills which bound the S.E. side of the Vale, and nearly the same distance from the Port.  It was on a rocky, and in many parts a precipitous hill.  Three sides of the Walls are easily to be traced: on the S.E. side, they extended a hundred and twenty yards; on the S.W. sixty-six, ending at a precipice; the N.E. may be traced forty yards, and ends in the p. 52same manner.  On the fourth side, the natural strength of the place rendered a farther defence useless; Mounds of Earth, tending to a semicircular form, with rocks and precipices, connect the N.E. and S.W. walls.  The precise time of its demolition is not known, but probably as soon as the Earl had effected his design it was suffered to fall to ruin.

In this Parish, about a mile and a half to the South of the Town, was discovered about the year 1806, at a place called Ty Coch, belonging to Captain Taylor, a Stone, with the following inscription;

NVMNC
IMP CAESAR M
AVRELANTONINVS
   PIVS TI IX AVG ARAB
                                 IX

It is probable, that after the traveller has examined the City of Bangor and its environs, he may be tempted to cross over to the Island of Anglesey; and if he be a pedestrian, he would find the passage over Garth, (formerly called Cadnant) Ferry the shortest and pleasantest way to Beaumaris; but if the party have a horse or carriage, the road to Porth Aethwy, (otherwise called Bangor Ferry) where the new Iron Bridge is now erecting, must be pursued.  And here it may be proper, before we proceed any further, to inform the stranger that there are six ferries p. 53across the Menai, which I shall mention here in regular order, beginning with Beaumaris, over the Lavan Sands, to Aber; 2.  Garth, near Bangor, which is confined solely to foot passengers; 3.  Porth Aethwy, [53] before-mentioned, the best, safest, and most convenient; 4.  Moel y Donn, a very safe good ferry, and sober careful boatmen; 5.  Tal y Foel, opposite Carnarvon; 6.  Abermenai, at the extreme Westerly end of the Straits, about three miles below Carnarvon.—The best rout for any person who may be inclined to make a tour of the Island, would be to proceed from Bangor Ferry to Beaumaris, along the delightful new terrace road, made at the sole expence of that munificent Nobleman, who is an honour to his Country, Lord Viscount Bulkeley, which may justly be pronounced one of the most grand and picturesque rides in the kingdom, commanding a full view of Beaumaris bay, with its winding Shores, projecting Capes and Promontories, together with the vast and magnificent chain of Carnarvonshire Hills and Mountains, towering in succession, in majestic eminence and grandeur, and in variety of shapes, until their summits are lost in the clouds.  After visiting the Castle and other Antiquities in and about this beautiful Town, the traveller is recommended to proceed from Beaumaris to Red Wharf, and p. 54along the Sea-coast to Amlwch, famous for its extensive and lucrative Copper Mines, and which are well worthy the stranger’s attention, and from thence to the town of Holyhead, where Government has erected, at an immense expence, one of the finest Piers in Great Britain; at the extremity is a very handsome Light-House, which, together with the Lamps along the Pier, being lighted up with Gas, renders the Scene, at night, brilliant and imposing.  He may then return into Carnarvonshire either along the Post Road to Llangefni, and thence to Moel y Donn ferry, or if he be curious enough to explore the whole of the Island, along the Western Coast to Aberfraw and Newborough, and re-cross either at Abermenai, Tal y Foel, or Moel y Donn.

As the Tourist may probably be desirous to know the names of the gentlemen’s seats, which appear so conspicuous on the Anglesey shore, from this side the water, and which seem to claim his attention, as he proceeds along, I shall here for his satisfaction describe them as they occur, beginning with the most Easterly, viz. Friers, the seat of Sir Robert Williams, Baronet, M.P. for the County of Carnarvon; which is situated a mile beyond Beaumaris, near the Sea coast, not far from the site of a Religious House of the Franciscan order,—next is Baron Hill, the seat of Lord Viscount Bulkeley, embosomed in woods, and commanding a most extensive and enchanting p. 55view, having the Town, Castle, and Bay of Beaumaris in front,—near it is Red Hill, the residence of Colonel Sparrow,—next in order is Lady Bulkeley’s neat Cottage, on the Beaumaris new road, and just below it Craig y Donn, the delightful Summer habitation of Owen Williams, Esq. M.P. for Great Marlow, who is fond of sailing, and has an elegant Cutter at anchor near his house,—next is Cadnant, the seat of J. Price, Esq. in a small recess on the side of a narrow dingle;—these are the principal seats to the East of the great Irish road.  But, before we proceed any further, the stranger cannot avoid noticing the singular situation of a small Church, on a barren rock, forming a little Peninsula, about a quarter of a mile to the West of Bangor-Ferry, called Llandissilio. [55]  We then proceed to another small Church, called Llanfair (or St. Mary’s) Pwll Gwyn Gell,—and near it, the Vicarage House; and just below that Llanfair Hall, the seat of Colonel Peacock.  And here I must not omit noticing a very elegant Column, situated on a high rock, behind Llanfair Church, erected by subscription of £1 each person, (and which was soon filled, so eager were the gentlemen of p. 56the neighbourhood to contribute), and intended to commemorate the brave, skilful, and intrepid conduct of that gallant Nobleman, the Marquess of Anglesey, at the Battle of Waterloo.  Not far from hence is that rocky or obstructed part of the Straits or Channel of the Menai, called by the Welsh Pwll Ceris, [56] and by the English the Swelly; the fury of the tide, during ebb and flow, is almost inconceivable, except by the navigator: here are great over-falls and violent whirl-pools, but at high water all is still.  This is a great obstacle to the navigation of large vessels, which must consult the critical season, and provide a good Pilot; and as the Merchants of Carnarvon, and others, were very apprehensive that the erection of a Bridge at Bangor Ferry, would materially injure the Trade, Government has proposed to defray the expence of blasting the Rocks, and to render every other practicable facility to the improvement of the navigation in this part of the Channel.

After this short digression, we now proceed to Plas Newydd, the magnificent Seat of the Marquess of Anglesey, situated on a beautiful curve of the Menai, and protected on three sides by venerable Oak Trees, which reminds us of the Groves, in which the Druids are represented by p. 57Tacitus to have concealed themselves from the Roman Army, and also recalls to our remembrance the ancient name of Anglesey, Ynys Dywyll, the Dark Island, on account of the deep shade of its groves:

— These woods
Were tenanted by Bards, who nightly thence,
Rob’d in their flowing vests of innocent white,
Issu’d with Harps, that glitter to the moon,
Hymning immortal strains.

Mason’s Caractacus.

It lies within 80 or 100 yards of the Menai, with a fine lawn in front, sloping to the edge of the water; it commands a fine view both towards Carnarvon and Bangor, which is rendered doubly interesting when the tide is in, and the river covered with Ships of various sizes, together with his Lordship’s Cutter, and those of T. A. Smith, Esq. of Vaynol, and Owen Williams, Esq. of Craig y Don, sailing up and down, and contending with each other, thus rendering the scene more animating.  On the contrary, in boisterous weather, here you behold from your fire side, (if you please,) the mariner exerting his strength to guide his ship, and contending with the storm; sweet retreat! delightful abode!

Suave mari magno, turbantibus æquora ventis,
E terra magnum alterius spectare laborem.

“Pleasing from danger free, to hear on shore,
The tempests whistle and the billows roar.”

Behind the House are to be seen two vast Cromlechs, the upper stone of one is twelve feet seven inches long, twelve broad, and four thick, p. 58supported by five tell ones; the other is but barely separated from the first, is almost a square of five feet and a half, and supported by four stones.  The number of supporters to Cromlechs are supposed to be merely accidental, and to depend on the size and form of the incumbent stone.  Dr. Borlase, in his History of Cornwall, has shewn the improbability of these stones ever being designed or used as Altars; the figure proves the impossibility of making fires, or performing sacrifices on their sloping summits, and almost all which I have seen (observes Mr. Pennant) have an inclination.  It is reasonable to suppose them to have been sepulchral monuments, (probably of their Arch Druids) and that the body might be lodged in the space beneath, and near the monument divine honours might be paid, or sacrifices performed to the manes of the dead.—This species of monument is to be found in most parts of Europe, in Scandinavia, in Holland and in France; in the last, the Pierre Levee, near Poitiers, is a stupendous specimen; they extend even farther South, for Mr. Armstrong gives a drawing of one of this nature in Minorca.  They vary in form, in many the space between the supporters is closed up with stones of greater or lesser size, and thus formed a sufficient security to the remains of the deceased therein deposited.  Probably all or most of those which we see in our Island, might originally have p. 59been thus closed up, and the stones since taken away, and applied to other uses; others are again quite bedded in the Carnedd, as is the case with that at Llanfaelog, in this Island.  Not far from the Cromlech is a large Carnedd, part of which has been removed; within was discovered a Cell, about seven feet long and three wide, covered at the top with two flat stones, and lined on the sides with others.  On the top of the stones were two semicircular holes, of size sufficient to take in the human neck; it is conjectured that above might have been another, so that both together might perform the office of a stocks.—It is indeed conjecture, yet not an improbable one, that in this place were confined, the wretches destined for sacrifice, as it is well known that they performed those execrable rites, and often upon captives who had suffered long imprisonment, perhaps in Cells similar to this, and the common Welsh proverb “Bwrw caeth i Gythraul,” to offer a captive to the Devil, seems to confirm this opinion.  After the tourist has examined the interior of Plasnewydd, which he may easily do if he be so disposed, he is recommended to pay a visit to Mr. Saunderson’s beautiful Cottage, the Lodge, about a quarter of a mile to the East of this Princely mansion, where his curiosity will no doubt be amply gratified, as that gentleman has displayed peculiar taste and judgment in the embellishment and decoration of that singularly p. 60elegant and much admired residence.  Half a mile to the West, and within the Park, are the Farm and Parish Church, Llan Edwen, and very near these, in the same direction, is Plas Coch, a venerable old Mansion, built in the time of Queen Elizabeth, and lately repaired and improved by the present Proprietor, Sir W. Bulkeley Hughes, Knight.  Next is Porthamel, [60] late the seat of Mrs. Goodman, now of W. Massey, Esq.; beyond which are Llanidan Church and Hall, the latter the admired residence of the Hon. Mr. Ireby, eldest son of Lord Boston, and nearly opposite Carnarvon, Tref-Arthen, Mr. Bogue’s, and Maes y Porth, W. P. Lloyd, Esq.

We shall now return to Bangor, and conduct the stranger by Bangor Ferry, (which, although about a mile further is by far the most interesting road) to Carnarvon, and as he proceeds he will find the views constantly changing, and he will p. 61frequently be at a loss which most to admire,—the Sea, the Mountains, or the landscape, up and down the Menai.  Gorphwysfa, [61a] a modern handsome Villa, between the Inn and the intended new Bridge, built by Lord Lucan, and now the property and residence of O. A. Poole, Esq. is the first place likely to attract his attention; this charming spot is much admired—the grounds are laid out with great taste and judgment.  But before we proceed, the reader is to be informed that £24,000. have been awarded by a jury, and allowed by Government, as an indemnification to the Proprietor for the loss of the profits of the Ferry, in consequence of the erection of the Bridge.  On his right, after he has passed the ferry, and as he ascends the Hill, is Treborth, the seat of G. Barlow, Esq. and about a mile further, on the same side of the road, surrounded by fine woods, and thriving plantations, is Vaynol, [61b] the p. 62occasional residence, at particular times of the year, of T. A. Smith, Esq. during a month or two in summer, to enjoy the pleasure of sailing in his Cutter, and a few weeks in winter, for the amusement of sporting.  His usual abode is at Tedworth, near Andover Hants.  This gentleman is Proprietor of several excellent Slate Quarries, some of which are considered the most productive of any in this part of the Principality, next to those of G. H. D. Pennant, Esq.; but the proper time for visiting these will be during an excursion from Carnarvon to Llanberris.  Vaenol was at one period the residence of a branch of the Penrhyn Family, who were descended from Ednyfed Fychan.  They obtained a Baronetage June 15, 1622.  Sir William Williams, the last of the line, disposed of his property to Sir Boucher Wrey, with the remainder to King William in fee, who made a grant of it to an ancestor of the present proprietor.  A curious Seal was discovered near this place, about two or three years ago, supposed to be that of some Convent or Monastery, with the image of the Virgin and child, and bearing the following inscription: S. BEATÆ MARIÆ DE SI. . . . NE BEC . . .

The next place which deserves to be noticed, in our progress towards Carnarvon, is Bryn Tirion; the habitation of Thomas Jones, Esq.; this house, which is nearly opposite Plas Newydd, stands on a beautiful eminence, and commands an extensive p. 63view of the Straits, as far as Abermenai.—In this neighbourhood, as well as on the opposite shore, are considerable Lime-stone rocks; and indications of Iron Ore have also been observed here, and, we understand, in one instance, a late trial has been attended with success.  It is the general opinion, when these two are found in considerable quantities, that Coal is not far distant, and some attempts have been made, at different times, to discover the vein, but hitherto without effecting that object.  Near this place is Aber y pwll, a Harbour belonging to Mr. Smith, where his Slate are shipped off, and to which a good new road has, within these few years, been made from his Quarry.  Half a mile farther is Moel y Don, a safe and commodious horse Ferry, where no accident has happened in the memory of any person now living.  In the life of Gryffydd, ap Cynan, (one of our Welsh Princes) it is said that a Castle was built here, by Aeloedd, King of Dublin, his grandfather by the mother’s side, and there are still some remains of a fortification, on a small eminence, close upon the Menai, about three hundred yards below the Ferry.  This place was also rendered memorable on account of a Bridge of Boats, erected here by King Edward the First, A.D. 1282, [63] in repassing which, a detachment of his Army, together with a p. 64number of Gascon and Spanish troops, commanded by Luke de Tany, were intercepted by the Welsh, who rush’d on them with hideous shouts, slew numbers, and forced the remainder into the sea.  On this occasion perished the General himself, together with Roger Clifford the younger, thirteen Knights, seventeen young gentlemen, and two hundred soldiers.  William Latimer alone escaped by the goodness of his horse, which swam with him to the Bridge.  Even if we suppose that a panic had seized the English forces at this time, yet a considerable degree of praise is still due to the intrepidity of my countrymen, as, when compared with the troops of other countries, they fought nearly unarmed; in order to be convinced of which, a person need only read a description of their weapons and accoutrements, when they accompanied our valiant Prince Richard Cœur de Lion into France, as given by William Brito, in Camden’s Remains.

When we have proceeded half a mile, we enter the beautiful woods of Llanfair, the delightful seat of John Griffith, Esq. a gentleman, who according the example of his ancestors, and the custom of “those good old times,” resides constantly in the country, and gives employment to a number of poor persons, who would otherwise, in all probability, be chargeable to some Parish; he does not dismiss from his service the super-anuated domestic—relieves the wants of the indigent, p. 65and promotes the comfort of the Cottager, by numerous acts of charity, and is an indulgent and generous Landlord.  The neatness of the fences, the thriving state of the plantations, the rich appearance of the land, and the judicious management of the Home-stall, together with the improved method of farming, must attract the attention of every passenger.  Nearer Carnarvon, on the banks of the Menai, is the small but neat Parish Church of Llanfair Isgaer, partly re-built at the above gentleman’s expence, and from which his mansion takes its name.  Not far from hence is Crûg, a house once the property of Sir W. Williams Wynne, but which was purchased by J. Griffith, Esq. of Llanfair; it deserves notice as being the place where Meredith ap Jevan ap Robert of Cesail Gyfarch, ancestor of Sir John Wynne, of Gwydir, was nursed, and from whence he removed to the Castle of Dolydd Helen.—This Meredith (as Sir John Wynne informs us, in the History of the Gwydir Family) married a daughter-in-law of one Spicer, of Carnarvon, who had an office in the Exchequer in that Town, and was a person of £50. per annum, and his son, John Spicer, was a Justice of the Peace, in the first Commissions after the new Ordinance of Wales, as we learn from the same authority.  Within a mile of Carnarvon, and near the road, is a handsome modern-built house, p. 66Ty Coch, the residence of the Rev. H. Jones.—Near this place once stood an old Mansion, called Plas Bretwn, belonging to the Breretons, a family who probably came to this country with Edward the First, or soon after; and nearly in this direction, a new Ferry was established within these few years, and we lament to state that on the 5th of August, 1820, owing to the very culpable negligence of the Ferrymen, in over-loading the boat, and carrying too much sail, (it being a very windy day) it was upset, and out of 26 persons, one man only was saved.—A similar accident happened about 37 years ago at Tal y Foel, (the Ferry opposite Carnarvon) with this difference, that in the former instance the boat sunk in the day time, and the passengers instantly went down, to rise no more, and in the latter, it struck on a Sand Bank, in the middle of the Channel, during the ebb of the tide, where these unfortunate people remained for many hours, calling for that assistance, which, owing to the darkness of the night; and the violence of the storm, it was impossible to afford them. [66]  Proceeding along the road, the traveller cannot but admire the singularly beautiful entrance to

p. 67CARNARVON,

which is rendered more striking by the summits of the Castle Towers, Coedhelen Summer-house, as well as the extensive Bay and foaming Bar, being distinctly seen in the rear of the Town.—Caernarvon is situated at the month of the Seiont, on a small Peninsula, formed by that river and the brook Cadnant, on the verge of the Straits of the Menai, which separate this County from the Island of Anglesey; this Town is justly the boast of North Wales, for beauty of situation—goodness of buildings—regularity of plan, and above all for the grandeur and magnificence of its Castle.  Here an admirer of nature may forget his cares, in contemplating the greatness of her works, or rather the stupendous operations of His hand, whose Almighty fiat, and creative energy, formed this terrestrial Globe, and called into existence the “everlasting mountains.”  This place, from its proximity to these wonderful and impregnable barriers, and its central and salubrious situation, will be found to be a most eligible station, from which the stranger may make various and pleasant excursions, some of which will be pointed out at the end of this article.  The town is a square, inclosed with embattled stone walls on three sides; the Castle defending it on the South.  In the West wall are two round Towers, and two others protecting the Gate at that point, p. 68called by the Welsh Porth-yr-aur, where there it a battery of 7 guns; three on the North, one on the N.E.; two supporting the Eastern entrance, or Porth-mawr, and two to the S.E. making in the whole twelve Towers.

The town is well built, the streets being at right angles, with the principal one, (the High Street).  Near the Cross formerly stood the old Town Hall, which continued many years in ruins, but it has lately been re-built in a more specious and handsome manner, and is converted into a commodious Market House, containing Butchers’ Shambles, Fish Stand, and Corn Market; over these is a large room, which is made use of for the boys of the National School, until the building now erecting shall be completed; another containing at present a Depot of Arms, and a smaller one, where the gentlemen of the Savings Bank Committee, together with their Clerk and Treasurer, sit from twelve till two o’clock every Saturday, to receive the weekly deposits; this is a most excellent institution, and ought to be universally known and encouraged.

The Castle is founded on a rock, and is almost entire; the enter walls are of dark grey hewn stone, (a species of lime stone) with an edging of red ones at the corners and about the windows, as also in several fascias, which gives it a handsome appearance.  Edward I. built this Castle in a singular and elegant style, (and probably the p. 69Town likewise, on the site, and out of the ruins of one more ancient, and bearing the same name [69]) with the revenue of the See of York, then vacant; a deep narrow foss or ditch, which has been filled up some years, once defended it on the North side, or in front, over which there was a drawbridge, leading to the King’s or principal Gate, which had four Portcullises, and was a grand and elegant entrance; above it stood the figure of the Royal Founder, in the act either of drawing or sheathing his sword, probably the latter, in allusion to the Welsh war being ended,—under his feet is a defaced shield: this Gate leads into an oblong Court, originally divided into two parts, the lower, or that end containing the Regal apartments, seem to have been again protected by another Wall and Gateway, now demolished.  At the West end of this area is a Polygon Tower, with three hexagon Turrets issuing from its top, on whose battlements were eagles, one of which only now remains, (which is shamefully mutilated and disfigured) whence it was called the Eagle Tower;—we have the authority of Mr. Pennant for saying that the Eagle upon the top of this Tower is with good reason supposed to be Roman, and that Edward found it at old Segontium.—In a small room, within this Tower, eleven feet p. 70by seven, Edward the Second is supposed to have been born, April 25th, 1284; a passage separates it from a similar apartment, called the nursery.—The correctness of this statement is however doubted by many, for if we may be allowed to judge, from the small dimensions, and present gloomy and uninviting appearance of this apartment, it does not seem probable, that the Queen of England would select it for the place of her accouchement, when other parts of the Castle afforded much superior accommodations; on the other hand it may be objected, that she might have fixed upon it as the place of greatest security and seclusion,—this however is certain, that tradition, which is often correct, is in favor of the small room.

From the top of the Eagle Tower, which most strangers ascend, the traveller will be able to command a grand, varied and extensive view, comprehending a great part of the Island of Anglesey, the Straits of the Menai, Carnarvon Bay, St. George’s Channel, with the whole range of Carnarvonshire Hills, from the Peaks of the Rivals, on the S.W. to the huge Pen-maen-mawr, on the N.E. being about 36 miles in extent.  On the South side, next the River Seiont, are three Hexagon and three Octagon Towers, and others on the North.  On the East is a magnificent entrance, called the Queen’s Gate, and through which she is supposed to have entered, with a p. 71lofty round Arch and small Postern; leading to which also, there was, no doubt, originally a draw-bridge, over the Moat, which formed the communication between the Seiont and the brook Cadnant, or present mill stream.  These Towers communicate all round, by noble galleries, and several of them are surrounded by smaller Towers, peculiar to this and Conway Castle, which seem to have been the Architect’s two Chef d’œuvre.  In the North East Tower is a deep well, half filled up, and this, or some other is said to have contained a dungeon, where it is pretended a man being once let down to bring up a dog, found a hammer, and that he saw a wooden door which he was afraid to open; the common people have a tradition, that there was a subterraneous passage either from this place or some other part of the Castle, to Coed Helen wood, on the other side of the river.  Some statements assert that this immense Fortress was completed in one year; others, with more probability, assure us that it was twelve years in building.  Henry Ellerton, or de Elreton, was appointed master mason, and perhaps was the Architect, and under him must have been numbers of other skilful workmen.  The Welsh peasants were employed, no doubt, in waiting upon them, and supplying them with materials, great part of which was brought from the ruins of Segontium, and tradition says that much of the limestone, with which it is built, was p. 72conveyed from Twr Kelyn, near Plas Newydd, in Anglesey, and of the grit stone from Vaenol.—The Menai greatly facilitated the carriage from both places.  The exterior walls are in general about three yards in thickness; and from its situation and strength, it seems to have been well adapted to overawe the newly acquired subjects of its founder.

This noble and venerable pile, from whatever point it is contemplated, or at whatever distance it is viewed, forms a most interesting object, particularly when it is considered that it was once the residence of Royalty, and gave birth to the first Prince of Wales, of the English line,—what wonder and astonishment must it not have excited in the minds of the poor peasants, dwelling at the foot of Snowdon, and unused to see any other habitations than their own humble dwellings, when beholding this vast and magnificent Castle, advancing by slow degrees, to its present height and magnitude.  When it is considered that it has withstood the shocks of more than five hundred winters, it seems wonderful that it should still appear so perfect and entire; for what is there that does not at last fade and decay, and yield by degrees to the war of elements, and the siege of time:

— The Tower, that long hath stood
The crash of Thunder, and the warring Winds,
Shook by the slow but sure destroyer—Time
p. 73Now hangs in doubtful ruins o’er its base;
And flinty pyramids, and walls of brass
Descend; the Babylonian Spires are sunk;
Achaia, Rome, and Egypt moulder down.
This huge rotundity, we tread grows old;
And all those Worlds that roll about the Sun,
The Sun himself shall die and ancient night,
Again involve the desolate Abyss.

After this Monarch had subdued the Welsh, he began to secure his conquests, by erecting several strong holds, in different parts of Wales, and it appearing that Carnarvonshire, on account of its Mountains and Morasses, was a County very likely to encourage insurrections, he determined to guard as much as possible against such an event, by erecting this and Conway Castle, two of the completest and strongest Fortresses in the Principality, and perhaps not inferior to any in the Kingdom.

The reason generally assigned for the King’s conduct, in bringing his beloved Queen, Eleanor, to such a distance, and at such an inclement season of the year, (for it was in the winter) to lie in, is the following: viz. that perceiving the Welsh remembered but too keenly the oppressions of the English Officers, who in former reigns had been placed over them, they peremptorily informed the King, that they were determined not to yield obedience to any Prince, except one of their own nation; he found it necessary to make p. 74use of an innocent artifice, and a pardonable piece of policy: he therefore concealed his intentions for a time, and secretly dispatched trusty messengers to the English Court, in order to conduct the Queen into Wales; and it is related, that soon after the birth of the young Prince, he summoned together the Welsh Nobles, and persons of the greatest rank and influence in the Principality, and asked them whether they would submit to be governed by a young man born in Wales, and one who could not speak of word of English, and that when they answered him in the affirmative, he presented to them his own son, saying to them at the same time (as well as he could pronounce the words) Eich Dyn, [74] i.e. this is your man—corrupted afterwards into Ich Dien.  It ought however to have been previously mentioned, that the King was at Rhuddlan Castle, during the Queen’s confinement, and we are informed by Leland, that when Griffith Lloyd, of Tregarnedd in Anglesey, brought him the joyful intelligence of the birth of a son, he was immediately Knighted, and rewarded with one of the Manors of the Welsh Princes, called Llys yn Dinorweg, in the Parish of Llanddeiniolen, now the property of T. A. Smith, of Vaenol, Esq.—The first Governor of this Castle, appointed by p. 75Edward, was John de Havering, with a salary of 200 Marks; with which he was obliged to maintain constantly, besides his own family, fourscore men, of which fifteen were to be cross-bowmen, one Chaplain, one Surgeon, and one Smith; the rest were to do the duty of keepers of the Gates, Centinels, and other necessary Officers.  In 1289, Adam de Wetenhall was appointed to the same important office.  The establishment for Town and Castle was as follows: The Constable of the Castle had sometimes £60. at others only £40.  The Captain of the Town had £12. 3s. 4d. for his annual fee; but this office was sometimes annexed to the former, and then Sixty was the Salary for both.  The Constable and the Captain had Twenty-four Soldiers allowed them for the defence of the place, at the wages of fourpence per day each.  This was considered as the amount of the establishment during peace.  The Porter of the Gates of the Town had for his annual fee, £3. 10s.  The following are the only instances known, of this place having suffered by the calamities of war, viz. in the great insurrection of the Welsh, under Madoc, in 1294, when they surprised the Town, during the time of a Fair, and put many English to the sword, got possession of this as well as Conway Castle, and made themselves masters of all Anglesey.  During the rebellion of Owen Glyndwr, about the year 1404, Ieuan (Evan) ap Meredith, of Eifionydd, and p. 76Meredith ap Hwlkyn Llwyd, of Glynn Llifon, had the charge of the Town of Carnarvon, (as Sir John Wynne informs us), and an English Captain defended the Castle; when the said Owen Glyndwr and his party, in revenge at not being able to gain possession, burned Ievan ap Meredith’s two houses, Cefn y Fann, and Kesail gyfarch.  Captain Swanly, a Parliamentarian Officer, took the Town, in 1644, made 400 prisoners, and got a great quantity of arms, ammunition, and pillage.  The Royalists afterwards repossessed themselves of the place,—Lord Byron was appointed Governor,—was besieged by General Mytton, in 1646, and yielded the place on the most honorable terms.  In 1648, the General himself, and Colonel Mason, were besieged in it, by Sir J. Owen, who, hearing that Colonel Carter and Colonel Twisselton were on the march to relieve the place, drew a part of his forces from the siege, in order to attack them on the way; the parties met at Dalar Hir, near Llandegai, Sir John was defeated, and made prisoner; after which, all North Wales submitted to the Parliament.

After this concise History of the Castle, we shall now endeavour to give a short description of the Town, within the walls, and then proceed to the suburbs; the former consists principally of seven streets, viz. The High Street, 2. King Street, or Castle Street, 3. Market Street, 4. Red p. 77Lion, or Plas-mawr Street, 5. Black Boy Street, 6. Newgate Street, and 7. Church Street; to which may be added, 8. Pen y Deits, or the head, or end of the Ditch or Moat; 9. Hole in the Wall Street, and, 10. Pepper Alley.

The High Street, which is the handsomest, consists principally of Shops and Lodging-houses, and has in its centre, (or rather at the entrance into Market Street) the old Town Hall, and, present Market House, already noticed; and at the upper or East end, over the Gateway called Porth mawr, is the present Guild-Hall, formerly an Exchequer Office, it was re-built in the year 1767, at the joint expence of Sir William Wynn, and Sir John Wynn, Baronet, as appears by an inscription in front of it; in the interior are handsome Portraits of each, as also of the late Earl of Uxbridge, father of the present Marquis of Anglesey.  Here the Member for the Borough is elected; their present Representative is the Hon. Captain Paget.  This place is also used as an Assembly Room, where the Michaelmas and other Balls, such as those given by the High Sheriff, during the Assizes, and by Members at elections, are held; and in order to light it up in a handsome manner, the late Lord Uxbridge presented the Corporation with a beautiful glass lustre.

The Corporation consists of a Mayor, who is as such Constable of the Castle; (the appointment p. 78is by the King, and continues during pleasure;—the Office is at present held by the Marquis of Anglesey), Deputy-Mayor, appointed by the Mayor; Two Bailiffs and a Recorder, elected annually by the Burgesses; Two Town-Stewards, Two Serjeants at Mace, One Beadle, Four Sidesmen, and Four Constables, elected annually by the Mayor and Bailiffs.  These go in procession to St. Mary’s Chanel, 29th September, being Michaelmas-day, and after service return to the Guild-Hall, to elect new Officers for the ensuing year, and admit new Burgesses.  There are Borough Courts held here every fortnight, to transact business, and to hear and redress grievances; at the second Court after Michaelmas-day, twelve of the Town Burgesses are sworn as a Jury, whose business it is to perambulate the liberties of the Town, to present nuisances and encroachments, as well as to see what repairs are wanted, and to make a Report of the same.  At one of these, the present entrance to the Castle was presented for consideration, whether it would not be adviseable to place it in repair, but from the opinion of an eminent Barrister; who has been consulted on the occasion, it appears that the Corporation have no authority so to do, the property being vested in the King, as are also the Town Walls.

High Street is terminated on the West by Porth yr aur, on the outside of which is a very p. 79pleasant terrace walk, on the shore of the Menai, of which it commends a full view; this and the Bangor road are considered the two fashionable promenades, of the inhabitants.  Edmund Griffith, of Penrhyn, lived at Porth-yr-aur.  Sir Rowland Brittayne, Constable of Carnarvon Castle, married Agnes, sister to the above Edmund Griffith; Rowland Griffith, of Carnarvon and Tref Arthen, was son of Sir William Griffith.—This last attended Henry VIII. to France, as Lewis Môn, the Welsh Bard, informs us in one of his Poems.  So late as Fifty or Sixty years ago, and for a long time prior to that period, several of the principal families of this and the neighbouring County, had a Town House at Carnarvon, where they generally used to spend the winter, and others resided here constantly; most of these were persons possessed of good incomes, and many of them kept their own carriages, had always a goad table, and lived in the good old hospitable style of their ancestors, so that when a gentleman happened to come into the town, if he had any acquaintance with some of these families, he generally went to his friend’s house, and not to an Inn.  Carnarvon was not at that time become such a commercial place as it is at present.  These houses, and indeed every gentleman’s residence, was then, and is still distinguished by the name of Plas.  The above short introduction was thought necessary in order to p. 80notice some of these old Mansions, which have either been taken down, deserted, or converted to other uses: Plas Issa, at one time the property of the Coed Helen Family, and Porth yr aur, belonging to the late Evan Lloyd, of Maes y Porth, Esq. were two old houses of this description, at the lower end of this street, the one taken down, and the other in ruins; Plas Bowman, between Church Street and Market Street, was another, and in King’s Head Street, there is one still left, Plas Llanwnda, where the proprietor, R. Garnons, Esq. resided for several months in the winter; and with true gentlemanly politeness supports the ancient credit of the House, for munificence and hospitality, and kind attention to the wants of the poor.  Quirt is another house in this street, at one time belonging to the Williams’s of Quirt, in Anglesey, and of Glan yr afon, in this County, which was made use of several years as an Inn.  In this Street also, at the back part of a public house, called Glan yr afon, is an old building; supposed to have been at one time either a Chapel belonging to the garrison, or to some private family.  Plas Spicer, in Church Street, is an old house which claims our attention next, once belonging to a family of that name, but which has long since been extinct.  Plas Mawr, belonging to William Griffith, Esq. a branch of the Vaenol and Penrhyn families, then resident at Trefarthen, in Anglesey, and Plas p. 81Pilston, the present Red Lion, are the two last we shall mention.  There is a handsome Monument to the memory of the former at Llanbeblig, which we shall notice when we come to describe that Church, over the door are the following initials, W.G. M.G.—in another part, J. G. M. G. date, 1590.  With respect to the latter, it is remarkable only on account of its antiquity, and the fate of its original Proprietor, Sir Roger de Puleston, a distinguished favourite of Edward I.  He had been appointed Sheriff, and Keeper of the County of Anglesey, in 1284: what office he held here is uncertain; but being directed in 1294, to levy the subsidy for the French war, a Tax the Welsh had never been accustomed to, they took up Arms, and hanged De Pulesdon, and several of his people.  This was a signal for a general Insurrection,—Madoc, a Relation of the late Prince Llywelyn, headed the people of this County.  Edward marched against them in person, and with great difficulty reduced the country to submit again to his yoke.

In Newgate Street, is the County Gaol, built about 18 or 20 years ago, by Mr. Penson of Wrexham; it was then considered by much too large, but we lament to say that at present it is frequently crowded; adjoining, but fronting Ditch Street, is the County Hall, at the West end of which is the Grand Jury Room, both p. 82spacious and commodious.  In the former, over the Bench, is the likeness of J. Garnons, Esq. at one time Prothonotary on this Circuit; in the latter, that of Hugh Leycester, Esq. our highly respected Chief Justice: a gentleman, who by his upright conduct, inflexible integrity, just and impartial decisions, and deep legal knowledge, has deservedly acquired a very high reputation in his profession; and who by his politeness of manners, and affability of demeanour, has justly endeared himself to the Inhabitants of this part of the Principality, and particularly to the Gentlemen of this County, who wishing to retain among them the resemblance of the person whom they so highly esteem and respect, and with whom they have been in the habit of friendly intercourse for many years, have requested him to sit for his picture, the expence of which was defrayed by voluntary Contributions; from the eagerness to come forward on the occasion, the Subscription was completed in a very short time, besides leaving a handsome surplus in the hands of the Committee, who gave £20 of it to the Widows and Orphans of those who perished in the Brig Elizabeth, which was upset and lost early last year, near Carnarvon Bar; the remainder is placed in the Bank, to be appropriated to the first charitable purpose that offers.  Adjoining the Grand Jury Room are the Offices of the Prothonotary and Clerk of the Peace, p. 83and near to these, outside of the walls, at the extremity of the Quay or Pier, is the Custom-House, a substantial and convenient modern Building.

St. Mary’s Chapel, is situated on the North West, of the Town, adjoining one of the Towers of the Wall: it is represented by most authors, as having originally been built for the use of the Garrison, and to have afterwards been claimed by the Corporation.  Some years ago, either the Curate, or the Clerk by his direction, used to go about the town at Easter, to collect Donations and Subscriptions, for performing English Service, in this Chapel.  It is now generally called the Town Church, and is served by the Vicar of Llanbeblig.  It was rebuilt in the year 1812, (with the exception of the old arches) partly by Subscription, assisted by the Corporation, who annually let a number of Pews as their property.  The Marquis of Anglesey presented them with an excellent Organ, which is considered a very fine toned Instrument.

The Suburbs, or Town without the Walls, consists of the following Streets: viz. Porth-mawr Street; the Bank or Dock Quay, where there are several good brick houses; Y Pendist, or Turf Square; Crown Street; Bangor Street; Old Boot Street: North Pen yr allt, or Toot-Hill Street; South Pen yr allt, formerly called, Stryd y Priciau Saethu; Pont Bridd, or Bridge p. 84Street; Stryt y Llyn, or Pool Street; Treffynon, or Holywell; Tre’r Gof, or Smithfield; Skinners Lane; Y Maes Glas, or Green; and the Green Gate Street.

Carnarvon is greatly improved, and considerably enlarged within these last thirty years;—at the entrance from Bangor, the Uxbridge Arms Hotel, a large, handsome, and commodious Inn, was built by the late Lord Uxbridge, which is kept by Mr. George Bettiss, and where the Traveller will meet with every attention and civility, and will find the accommodations excellent, and the charges reasonable.—Within the same period was erected that handsome row of houses called the Green, terminated on the East side by the Goat Inn, built by Thomas Jones, Esq., of Bryntirion, who is the proprietor thereof; here also the Stranger will meet with every attention, and where the accommodations are good, and the charges moderate.  In front of these houses there was a high bank, some years ago, which, besides intercepting the view, was very inconvenient to ascend and descend, particularly at the time of fairs, which are held here; this was removed about four years ago, partly by Subscription, but chiefly at the expence of the Parish and Corporation, who employed the Poor during those dear Times, in removing the earth, and wheeling it down to the Quay, which also was erected about p. 85eighteen years ago, and has lately been extended, and rendered more spacious and convenient, so that it now affords every facility and accommodation to Vessels loading and unloading.  The Slate Quarries, (as has before been observed) are the chief sources of the Wealth and Commerce of this County; and in these, thousands of the Inhabitants, are constantly employed; and scores, if not hundreds of Waggons and Carts are engaged in bringing down the productions of the Quarries to this Town, where they are shipped to various parts of the World.  The average annual Amount of Exports from Port of Carnarvon, is at present, about £50,000, but there is every reason to suppose, that, were Rail-roads formed from the several Slate Quarries in the neighbourhood, the Export Trade would be very much increased; as then a supply of Sates might always be secured on the Quays; whereas now, from the uncertainty of such supply, and the consequent delay, proprietors and masters of Vessels are unwilling to expose themselves to the risque of incurring a heavy expence, in waiting their turn to load; this operates more particularly on large Vessels, their expences being heavy, in proportion to their size; and it is certain, that many Americans and other foreigners, are deterred by these circumstances from coming to this Port for Slate.

p. 86The long desired Light on Bardsey Island, the establishment of which is now decided on, and which it is intended by the Corporation of Trinity House, shall be exhibited in the ensuing Autumn, is likely to prove of incalculable benefit; not only to the Coasting Trade of this and the neighbouring Ports, but to Trade in general.

Steam Packets might be established between Carnarvon and Dublin.  At times when the tide might not answer for landing at the Town, on account of the difficulty of passing the Bar, they would always find a safe and commodious landing place at Llanddwyn Point, about seven miles distant from Carnarvon; with the capability of a good Carriage Road to the Town being made, at a small expence.  The late improvements at Llanddwyn, have rendered it particularly eligible for the above purpose, the Trustees of Carnarvon Harbour having erected a Breakwater, and Beacon, for the safety and comfort of Navigators.  The distance from Carnarvon to Capel Curig, through the beautiful and romantic Pass of Llanberis, is eighteen miles; from Holyhead, by Bangor Ferry forty-two miles: The traveller would therefore save twenty-four miles, by adopting the former line.

This Town is capable of much improvement, as a place of resort for strangers, particularly in the Summer season; at which period, it is even now visited by many, but from the want of sufficient p. 87comfortable accommodation, and other conveniences to induce them to remain, a weekly, nay almost a daily change is observable, in a continued succession of visitors.  Were comfortable Lodging Houses erected, with Baths attached, (which might be done with much ease) and the shore cleared, at certain convenient points, with public Machines, and Attendants, there is little doubt of this delightfully situated Town, becoming in a short time a favourite Watering Place, and consequently, improving rapidly.

Edward I. bestowed on Carnarvon its first Royal Charter, and made it a free Borough: among other privileges, none of the Burgesses could be convicted of any crime committed between the Rivers Conway and Dyfi, unless by a Jury of their own Townsmen.  The representative of the place is elected by its Burgesses, and those of Conway, Pwllheli, and Crickaeth; the right of voting is in every one, resident, or non-resident, admitted to their Freedom.  Bondsmen in former times, living in the Town a year and a day, and paying scot and lot, gained their liberty, and in those days Jews were not permitted to reside here.  The first member was John Puleston; and the second time it sent representatives, (which was the 1st Edward VI) it chose Robert Puleston, and the County elected John, as if both Town and County determined to make reparation to the family, for the cruelty practised p. 88on their ancestor.  It gives the title of Marquis to James Brydges, Lord Chandos; and that of Earl, to Henry Herbert, Baron Porchester, who was created a Baron Oct. 17, 1780, and advanced to the Earldom June 29, 1793.  Leland, who travelled through this County, in the time of Henry VIII. makes the following observation, with regard to the situation of Carnarvon, in his Itinerary, “Cadnant brook, rising three miles off, cometh through the Town Bridge of Caernarvon, and goeth by itself into the Menai area, so that Caernarvon standeth betwixt two Rivers, both coming into the said straits of the Menai.”

In this Parish there are 700 Houses assessed for Poor’s Rate, 517 of which are in the Town; adding to these the number of families excused from poverty, and those who receive parochial Relief, it may reasonably be inferred, that the Population of Carnarvon is about 6000, exclusive of Mariners.  There needs no other observation on the salubrity of the air, than the following extract from the Report of the Select Vestry of Carnarvon, in 1819:—“Among those who receive Parochial Relief, are 19, aged from 80 to 90 years; 28, from 70 to 80; 42, from 60 to 70; and 39, from 50 to 60.”

In the Town are the following Dissenting Chapels, a Presbyterian Chapel in Bangor Street,—the Calvinist’s at Pen yr allt,—the p. 89Wesleyans’ in Smithfield, or Tre’r gof, and the Baptists’ at Treffynon.  There are five Fairs held annually at Carnarvon, viz. March 12th, May 16th, August 12th, September 20, and December 5.

The following beautiful Stanzas, appeared in the North Wales Gazette, November 27, 1812, signed Junius, which may not be thought out of place here; they were written by Mr. B. Brocas, at that time residing in this Town:

Does thy Harp, O Cambria, Slumber?
   Are thy sainted Bards no more?
Once it breath’d a sweeter number
   Than e’er sigh’d round Scylla’s shore.

Where are now those magic wonders,
   Which its touch could once inspire?
Where thy Minstrels’ martial thunders,
   Glanc’d from hands and lips of fire.

Are thy glories sunk for ever,
   Are they set to rise no more?
Must we henceforth hail them never,
   On this muse-deserted shore?

Yes! prophetic Science hear’s me,
   Thus bewail her ancient seat,
Lifts her spoil crown’d head, and cheers me,
   Echoing thus the cry of fate:—

“Thy bless’d shade, O Taliesin!
   Waft on soft Elysian gales,
To impart thy heav’n-taught lesson,
   To some favour’d child of Wales.

“Let Thy Spirit hover o’er him,
   Strike him with thy hallow’d fire:
Prostrate nations shall adore him,
   Deck’d with Thy immortal lyre.

“Thus shall Cambria once more flourish,
   High, as e’er in times of yore;
And her sacred soil, still nourish
   Heav’n born bards for evermore.”

p. 90We cannot quit this place without informing the stranger, (if he be not already aware of the circumstance) that a Society has been lately established here, as well as in the other Divisions of the Principality, which has been denominated the “Cymmrodorion Society in Gwynedd;” and whose object is the preservation of Ancient British Literature,—Poetical, Historical, Antiquarian, Sacred, and Moral, and the encouragement of National Music.  The term Cymmrodorion has been adopted, (as specified by the Members of the Committee in Powys) more particularly out of respect to an ancient Society of that name, established in London, 1751, under the Patronage of his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales.  An Eisteddfod, or Congress of Bards, was held at Carmarthen, July 8, 1819, under the sanction of Lord Dynevor, and the Bishop of St. David’s; and another at Wrexham, September 13, 1820, under the Patronage of Sir W. W. Wynne.  A similar Meeting is to take place at Carnarvon, sometime in the course of the ensuing Autumn, when our greatly esteemed and highly respected Lord Lieutenant, Viscount Warren Bulkeley, it is hoped will preside.  Several Meetings have already been held, a Committee formed, and regulations made in order to promote its success, and ensure a full attendance.

Old Segontium occupies the summit of a hill, about a quarter of a mile to the South East of p. 91the present Town, and is intersected by the road leading to Bethgelert; its ancient British name was Caer Sallawg: [91] it is about 150 yards in length, and 100 wide; some remains of the Roman Walls are still visible, (now covered with Ivy) particularly near the South East corner.  Some years back there appeared the remnant of a building, made with tiles, and plaistered with very hard and smooth mortar; this is supposed to have been part of a Hypocaust.  The mortar in all other parts is very hard, and mixed with much gravel, and sand.  This ancient Station forms an oblong of very considerable extent, seemingly from four to six Acres.  Camden suspects that this might have been the Setantiorum, Porlus of Ptolemy being willing to read it Segontiorum, but the situation of the former is certainly at the mouth of the Ribble.  He is most probably right, in supposing it to have been, in after times, named Caer Cwstenin, or the Castle of Constantine; and that Hugh Lupus, who certainly invaded Anglesey, in 1098, had here a temporary post.  Mathew of Westminster asserts, (but upon what authority is not mentioned) that Constantius, father of p. 92Constantine, was interred here, and that Edward caused the body to be taken up, and honourably reburied in the Church, (probably of St. Publicius).  Mr. Rowlands in his history of Anglesey says, that Helen, the supposed mother of this reputed Saint had a Chapel [92] here, which, he tells us, was in being in his days.  Near the steep Bank of the Seiont, about one hundred yards from the end of Pool Street, and divided by the road leading to Clynnog and Pwllheli, are the ruins of a Roman Fort, connected, no doubt, with Old Segontium, and intended, as it is conjectured, to protect the landing from the river.—On two sides the walls are pretty entire, one is seventy-four yards long, the other sixty-four; height ten feet eight inches, thickness six feet.  A great part of the facing is taken away, which discovers the peculiarity of the Roman masonry; it consists of regular courses, the others have the stones disposed in zigzag fashion.  Along the walls are three parallel lines of round holes, not three inches in diameter (nicely plaistered within) which pass through the whole thickness.  There are other similar holes, which are discovered in the end of the Wall, and some to run through it lengthways.  There are various conjectures p. 93respecting the use for which these were intended, the most probable is, that they were for the purpose of holding the scaffolding, which were supported, it is likely, by cylindrical iron bars, and when taken out, the air was admitted to harden the mortar, which was poured into the work in a liquid state.  Near one corner, some years ago, the foundation of a round Tower was discovered; it was paved, and in it were found the horn of a deer, and skeletons of some lesser animals.  There were similar ruins on the opposite shore, and within these few years, in scouring the channel of the river, large pieces of a curious old foot Bridge were discovered, supposed to have been Roman.—A gold coin, of about seventeen shillings weight, was found here, inscribed T. DIVI AVG FIL AVGVSTVS.  And a small one, of mixed metal, with a head, and the following legend on one side: ANTONINVS AVG PIVS P P TR. P. XXII. on the other a female figure, leading a small animal with her right hand, and holding a spear in her left, and the following letters, SALVTI AVG COS IIII.  And a stone with the following Letters, continued for many years, in a wall near the road, about the centre of Segontium, and which has lately disappeared, S V C supposed by some to mean, Segontium urbs Constantine.  Cadwallon, one of the Princes of Wales, about A.D. 620, (on account of Anglesey being infested by the Irish and Pictish p. 94Rovers) removed the British Court from Aberffraw, where it had been placed about 200 years before, by Caswallon law hir, to Segontium.  The Roman road from Segontium to Dinorwig, and thence to Cornovium, was visible on a part of Rhos Bodrual, till within these few years, when that part of the Common was cultivated.

The Mother or Parish Church of Carnarvon, called Llanbeblig, is situated about one hundred yards beyond, or to the East of old Segontium, and according to our Historians, is dedicated to St. Publicius, Son of Macsen Wledig, (Maximus the Tyrant) and his Wife Helen, Daughter of Endef, Duke of Cornwal.—It is said that he retired from the World, and took a religious habit.  Richard II. bestowed this Church, and the Chapel at Carnarvon, on the Nuns of St. Mary’s, in Chester, in consideration of their poverty; and in the recital of another Charter of the same Prince, it is mentioned that his Grandfather, Edward III. had bestowed on those Religious, the Advowson of Llangathen, in Carmarthenshire; both which on the Dissolution, were annexed to the See of Chester, and remain to this day, under the Patronage of the Bishop of that Diocese.  In a recess to the North of the Communion Table, is an elegant Altar Tomb, with the following inscription: Here lieth the body of William Griffith, Esq. the Son of William Griffith, Knight, who died Nov. p. 9528, 1587, and Margaret his Wife, Daughter of John Wynne ap Meredith, Esq. who built this Tomb, 1593. [95]—Their figures are in white Marble, lying on a mat, admirably carved; he is in armour, she has on a short quilled ruff, and ruffles at her wrists, in a long gown, and a sash around her waist.  And in the Churchyard, some years ago, was the following, which it may be useful to preserve, as it is very probable that a house in this neighbourhood, Cae Bold, took its name from this family:—Here lyeth the body of Ellin Bold, Daughter of William Bold, Esq. and Wife to John Ranshcraf, of Breton, Gent. who died 1st day of April, 1663.  And near it the following: Here lyeth interred the body of John Smyth, of Carnarvon, the elder, who died the 23d day of May, A.D. 1645.  In the late Mr. Foxwist’s pew, in the said Church, on a brass plate, is the following inscription;

In quo præ multis, scribend i gloria fulsit,
Ricardus Foxwist, hic pede tritus adest,
Annus Christi tutus fuit M.D: luce patrici
Dum tenet expirans, vulnera quinque tua;
Corporis atque tui, tandem pars, aditur alt’ra,
Dum conjux uno, clauditur in tumulo,
Hæcque Johanna fuit, ac Spicer nata Johanne;
Pauperibus larga, justa, pudica; fuit,

Several pleasant excursions may be recommended to the Tourist, whilst resident at Carnarvon: p. 961st.  He may either cross the Strait by the Carnarvon Ferry, called Tal y Foel, and examine Newborough, (once the seat of our ancient Princes) and that part of the Anglesey coast, or, engage a boat, and sail down to Aber Menai; visit the Barracks, called by the Welsh Y Belan, and proceed from thence to the once celebrated Peninsula of Llanddwyn, which, though in the time of Edward III. it contained only eight small houses, (then called Weles,) yet in the reign of Henry VIII. was one of the richest Prebends in the Cathedral of Bangor; its wealth arose not from the real fertility of the place, but from the superstition of the common people—from pilgrimages to crosses, reliques, Holy wells, ordeals, and what Mr. Rowlands calls ichthuomania, or divination from Fishes.—In the time of Owen Glyndwr, one Yorwerth Vychan, Rector of Llanddoged, made pretentions to the Offerings, and sacrilegiously seized on them; but Griffith le Yonge, Chancellor to that Chieftain, interfered, and by a decree of his, put a stop to the invasion of the rights of the place: Here are still visible the ruins of the old Church, dedicated to St. Dwywen, Daughter of Brychan, one of the holy Colidei, or primitive Christians of Britain, who distinguished themselves by living in seclusion and retirement.—Near it are some of the remains of the prebendal house:—The first appears to have been no p. 97inelegant building; the last is noted for the residence of Richard Kyffin, Rector of this place, and Dean of Bangor, before mentioned.  The Barracks, above alluded to, were created about 35 or 40 years ago, by the late Lord Newborough, of Glyn Llifon, when he was Colonel of the Militia of this County, for the accommodation of the men when called out on permanent duty.

Some of the Inhabitants of Carnarvon are frequently employed in fishing, during the greatest part of the year, both in the Menai and Carnarvon Bay; the fish principally taken are the following, viz. Cod, Turbot, Soles, Salmon, Mullet, Bream, Ray, &c. all excellent in their kind; Oysters are also taken on the Anglesey coast.  There is a small Creek, or Harbour near the point of Llanddwyn, where vessels frequently put in to await the return of the Tide.  A red and a black Buoy, and also a Perch, have been placed near the entrance of Carnarvon Bar, for the direction of Navigators.  The Botanist, Naturalist, Sailor, or Sportsman, would find sufficient employment, and meet with considerable amusement during a short voyage of this description, as there are varieties of Shells on the sea shore, some scarce Plants on the rocks, and Rabbits in the sand banks.  The Straits of the Menai have frequently been the scene of many a bloody encounter between the Welsh, Irish; Danes, &c. and the reader may not probably be displeased with p. 98our introducing here, a part of Gray’s spirited version of the Rev. Evan Evans’s translation of Gwalchmai’s Ode, [98a] celebrating the victory of Prince Owen Gwynedd, over three fleets of Irish, Danish, and Norman Pirates, at Tal y Foel, nearly opposite Carnarvon, on the Anglesey Coast, about the year 1158: “Ardwyrëaf hael o hil Rodri,” &c.

   Owen’s praise demands my Song,
Owen swift and Owen strong,—
Fairest flower of Roderick’s stem,—
Gwynedd’s shield, and Britain’s gem:
He nor heaps his brooded stone,
Nor on all profusely pours;
Lord of every regal art,
Liberal hand, and open heart.

   Big with hosts of mighty name,
Squadron’s three against him came;
This the force of Erin hiding,
Side by side as proudly riding;
On her shadow, long and gay
Lochlin plows the wat’ry way:
There, the Norman sails afar,
Catch the winds, and join the war;
Black and huge along they sweep,
Burthens of the angry deep.

   Dauntless on his native sands,
The Dragon [98b] son of Mona stands,
In glittering arms and glory drest,
High he rears his ruby crest.
There the thund’ring strokes begin,
There the press, and there the din;
Tal y Moelfre’s [98c] rocky shore
Echoing to the battle’s roar;
Check’d by the torrent tide of blood,
Backward Menai rolls his flood;
While heap’d the Hero’s feet around,
Prostrate warriors gnaw the ground:
p. 99Where his glowing eye-balls turn,
Thousand banners round him burn;
Where he points his purple spear,
Hasty, hasty rout is there;
Marking with indignant eye,
Fear to stop, and shame to fly:
There Confusion, Terror’s child,
Conflict fierce, and Ruin wild,
Agony, that pants for breath,
Despair, and honourable death.

The next expedition we shall recommend is a visit to the Llanllyfni Slate Quarries, and the Nantlle (or as they were formerly called the Bala Deulyn) Lakes, then proceed by Drws y Coed, to the Bethgelert road, and return by Quellyn Lake and Bettws Village to Carnarvon.  Part of this rout, particularly from the Quarries to the main road, leading from Carnarvon to Bethgelert, will not admit of a four-wheeled Carriage, and it would be difficult to take even a Gig along that portion of it.  The whole of this circuit, as before described, round the huge Mynydd-mawr, (a mountain which forms so remarkable a feature in the landscape from Carnarvon) will make a distance probably of about one and twenty miles.  Persons who may be induced to examine this interesting part of the County, would do well to hire ponies at Carnarvon, and set off after an early breakfast; they would then be able to return by three or four o’clock.  The first part of the journey, for two miles and a half, is along the Pwllheli road; about that distance, (a few yards beyond a small bridge) the turn on the left must be taken, afterwards p. 100the Slate Carts (of which the stranger will meet with a great number) will be a sufficient direction.  It is thought necessary to mention these particulars, as there are neither mile stones nor finger posts to point the way, and but few of the country people understand the English language; the stranger would therefore act wisely to engage a good intelligent guide, well recommended by some gentleman resident at Carnarvon.  Pont Seiont (above and below which the Scenery is very beautiful) is a bridge within a short mile of the town, and between which and Pont Newydd, (another bridge over the River Gwyrfai, a mile further,) there is a Manor belonging to the Bishop of Bangor, called Castellmai, the principal Freeholders in which, 1647, were the following, as appears by the Extent Book: Dr. Williams, late Archbishop of York, W. Glynn, Esq. John Bodvell, Esq. Hugh Gwynn, Esq. John Robins, Esq. William Spicer, Esq. Sir W. Williams, Bart. Richard Prytherch, Esq.; Parish of Llanfaglan, ditto, John Bodvell, Esq. Wm. Foxwist, Esq. Thomas Glynn, Esq. Hugh Griffith, Esq. Richard Prytherch, Esq. John Robins, Esq.: Llanwnda Parish,—William Foxwist, Esq. Hugh Gwynn, Esq. Thomas Williams, Esq. and Thomas Glynn, Esq.

There is a called Gwaredog, a little to the S.E. of the last mentioned bridge, which is celebrated (according to our Welsh Pedigrees) p. 101as the birth-place of the renowned Patrick, the Patron Saint of the Irish; has genealogy is thus given, in Bonedd y Saint, published in the Myvyrian Archaiology: Padric Sant ap Alfryd ap Gronwy ap Gwdion ap Dôn o Waredawg yn Arvon.  Several other places contend for this honor, such as Abergwaun, or Fishguard, in Pembrokeshire; Ystrad Clwyd, (or Clyde’s Dale) in Scotland, and several places in Ireland.  The river Gorfai is the boundary between the two Commots of Uwch and Is-Gorvai, in the Hundred or Cantrev of Arvon.  About half a mile beyond Pont Newydd, on the right, is Dinas Dinoethny, the residence of Captain Jones.—This appears to have been one of the principal Roman Encampments in this neighbourhood, and to have had several small out-posts connected with it, which was the case also with Dinas Dinlle, a remarkable tumulus, or eminence, on the sea-coast, about two miles further, as well as with Craig y Dinas, on the river Llyfni, and Dinorwig, in the parish of Llanddeiniolen, before mentioned; a list of which, together with the subordinate Posts, connected with them, we shall hereafter insert.  About a quarter of a mile beyond Dinas Dinoethwy, on the right, is Llanwnda, a small Church, dedicated to St. Gwyndaf.  The Rectorial Tithes are annexed to the Headship of Jesus College, Oxford, and the small Vicarage, which is discharged and consolidated with the p. 102Chapel of Llan Faglan, dedicated to St. Baglan, situated near Aber menai, is in the Patronage of the Bishop of Bangor.  The population of Llanwnda, in 1801, was 826, and of Llan Faglan 102.  Near a small bridge, (as before-mentioned) called Glann y Rhyd, the Tourist will follow the left hand road until he arrives within a mile of the village of Llanllyfni, when he will again turn on the left, near a smithy, and proceed towards the Slate Quarries; and he will soon perceive, when he enters this little vale, that the Scenery here, as well as in most parts of North Wales, unfolds its beauty gradually as the traveller advances, until at last it displays itself in all its grandeur and magnificence.  This Defile is bounded on the South and East by mountains of considerable height and magnitude, which assume a variety of shapes and characters as we proceed.  It was from this narrow vale, which is but little known to strangers, that Wilson took his celebrated view of Snowdon, which has been so much and so deservedly admired; the situation was probably near the Nantlle Lakes, where Edward I. in the summer of 1284, resided for some days; and from thence issued several of his Edicts, some dated July 17, and others the 20th, and one from Carnarvon, as late as the 22nd of October in the same year, which shews what attention he paid to the establishment of governments in his new Dominions.  The place which he occupied p. 103here during that time, was called Bala [103] Deulyn, and had been in the possession of the descendants of the Welsh Princes, ever since the time of Owen Gwynedd, as appears from authorities mentioned in Sir John Wynne’s History of the Gwydir Family, to which we have before alluded.

The principal Slate Quarries (which are near these lakes) are the Cilgwyn and Havodlas; here there is a Steam Engine, to supply the place of another, which lately fell into the quarry, and was broke; they are situated in the Parish of Llandwrog, (which we soon shall have occasion to notice in our progress to Clynog) and their produce is conveyed to Carnarvon.  The variation in the size of the Slates took place about 75 years ago; before that time, they were all nearly of the same dimensions, and very small; but a larger sort having been introduced, it became necessary, for the sake of distinction, to give them a new name, and being doubled in size, and also in price, they were denominated Doubles, and one thousand of these were considered and accounted by the Workmen as equal to two thousand; the first sort was therefore distinguished by the name of Singles.—Some time after, another sort was introduced, increasing p. 104still in size, so as to double those called doubles, and were therefore called Double doubles, and the men counted every thousand of these as four thousand: afterwards a still larger sort was found necessary, and General Warburton, the proprietor of the Penrhyn Estate, being in the country about that time, is said to have given these last, the honorable name of Countesses; and the former, viz. the double doubles, he denominated Ladies; since that time two others of still greater magnitude have been added, which are distinguished by the names of Duchesses and Queens.  The colour of these States, as well as those of Cefn Du, in the Parishes of Llanbeblig and Llanrug, though of an equally good, if not better quality, differ a little from those of Cae Braich y Cafn, or Mr. Pennant’s Quarry, the former being either of a brown cast, or red tinge, while the latter are of a dark blue.  Some of the Welsh have supposed that an ancient prophecy of Merddyn ap Morvran, (or Merlinus Caledonius) received its accomplishment when these Quarries were discovered, and so many men employed, viz. That the time would come, when the rocks of Carnarvonshire would be converted into bread.  It is to be regretted that the proprietors of these numerous Slate Quarries, do not unite together, and form a good Iron Rail Road, or tram-way, to Carnarvon, which though it may be attended with great p. 105expence in the execution, would eventually be productive of considerable advantage to the adventurers.—And as we are upon this subject, we cannot help lamenting another circumstance which proves a considerable diminution of the benefits arising from these sources of support and employment to the labouring Poor, viz. that so many accidents, by the sudden explosions of charges of Gunpowder, the falling of Stones, rubbish, and fragments of Rocks, &c. and breaking of ropes, whereby many of the workmen are lamed and maimed, and others lose their sight, and thus become chargable to different Parishes.  It would be desirable therefore, to have a Fund for the relief of these poor sufferers; and for this purpose, the Proprietors, or their Agents, might easily establish a Club, or Friendly Society, towards which they should contribute liberally, themselves, and also make such an arrangement, that a small sum should be allotted, either weekly or monthly, from the wages of the Labourers, towards their support when incapacitated, either by casualties or illness, from following their usual occupation; and also for the purpose of procuring medical advice.

Llanllyfni, before mentioned, is a small Village on the road to Crickaeth, Penmorva, and Tremadoc.—It is a discharged Rectory, valued in the King’s Books at £7 17s. 6d. and dedicated to St. Rhediw, a Saint (says Mr. W. p. 106Owen Pughe) whose history is not known; he is supposed to have been buried here; and his well, his seat, the print of his Horse’s foot, and the mark of his Thumb on a Stone, are still pretended to be shewn.  Near the upper end of this narrow pass are some Copper Mines, where some few workmen are employed, but the Vein is small, and the quantity of Ore hitherto obtained, though of a good quality, has been very inconsiderable.

The curious Visitor of these mountainous districts, will be induced, no doubt, before he descends into the Bethgelert road, to call at Drws-y-coed, a mountain Farm, near which, in a small Lake, known by the name of Llyn y Dywarchen, is the celebrated Floating Island, mentioned by Giraldus, and which he denominates insula erratica; what is dignified with the name of Island, is merely a considerable portion of the Turbery ground, on the side of this small Pool, undermined, and torn off, and adhering together by the entangling of the Roots, of such Plants as generally grow on Bogs and Morasses.  Here may be found the Nymphœa lutea & alba, or yellow and white Water Lily, (and other Aquatic Plants) which are not uncommon in most of the Lakes in the vicinity of Snowdon.  If the Traveller be so disposed, and the weather favourable, he will here have an opportunity of ascending Snowdon, from the p. 107Guide’s House, near Cawellyn (Quellyn) Lake; from whence there is a tolerable Horse Path till within a quarter of a mile of the apex, made for the purpose of bringing down Copper Ore from Bwlch glas, a gap, or opening between the two summits of Snowdon.  This and the one along the side of Cwm Brwynog, in the Parish of Llanberris, (which we shall hereafter more particularly describe) are considered the two easiest and safest ascents; and along either of which, any person, who is a tolerable horseman, may ride a Welsh Pony, as far as the spot above mentioned.

We shall now conduct the Stranger to the Village of Llanberis, which on account of its singular situation, at the end of a Lake, in a narrow Vale, nearly at the foot of Snowdon, is well worth his attention.  The distance from Carnarvon is about ten miles; the first five of which, so far as a place called Cwm y Glo, (though rough, uneven, and greatly injured by the Slate Carts) will admit of a Carriage; and from thence a Boat may be engaged.  After travelling about a mile and a half from Carnarvon, we obtain a view of the River Seiont, and having proceeded along its banks a short way, we cross it, over a handsome Arch, built in 1769, by one Henry Parry, as appears by a stone in the Battlement, and where he is underservedly denominated the modern Inigo: afterwards p. 108we turn to the left; on an eminence to the right, at a little distance from the road, is Llanrug, [108] a small Church, dedicated to St. Michael, and formerly called Llanfihangel yn Rûg.  Some years ago, the following little Sonnet was written on beholding this small structure, after a few weeks absence:

   Oft as yon Fane presents its simple form;
That small shrill Bell, that duly tolls aloud
Each day of rest,—to call the rustic croud;
Yon aged Yew-tree, bending with the storm;
The thought recurs—that by indulgent Heaven,
This humble flock, to feed with constant care,
Their morals form, and truths divine declare,
To me unworthy, has the charge been given.
Then let me still, their faithful Pastor prove,
By precepts teach, and bright example lead
My flock the upward road, to bliss; and read
With fervor due His word, whose name is Love!
When thus my work is finish’d, and my race is run,
That Great, Good Shepherd may pronounce “well done.”

The extent of the Parish is about five miles in length, and two in breadth: the number of Inhabited Houses in 1811, was 158, and of Inhabitants, 682.—It is a small Rectory, and valued in the King’s Books at £5 12s. 6d.  When arrived at the foot of a Hill, the road to the left must be taken, which leads to Cwm y Glo before mentioned, consisting of a group of Cottages, in a snug romantic situation, greatly p. 109and deservedly admired; and near them a small Harbour, for Boats employed in fishing, and bringing down Slate and Copper Ore.—On the top of the Hill, before we descend to this place, there is a circular Rock on the left, strongly fortified, which was probably a subordinate post to Dinas Dinlle, Dinas Dinoethwy, and Dinas Dinorwig, before mentioned, and which being at the entrance of this narrow pass, served to communicate any signal to Dolbadern Castle, which is situated on a Rock between the two Lakes, and from whence again, any notice, or intelligence of an enemy’s approach, was conveyed to the upper end of the Vale, and so on to Capel Curig, Dolwyddelen, &c.  From this Rock there is a most grand and magnificent view, which on account of its opening suddenly and unexpectedly, has the effect of enchantment.  Snowdon seems to soar in proud pre-eminence, and to look down upon the surrounding subject Hills with conscious superiority; some of which however, such as Erlidir, Garn, and Glydair, on the left, (or North of the Vale) Crib Goch, and Carnedd Higgon, on the right, appear to rival their Majestic Lord.  This grand scenery,—this wonderful display of the works of the Most High, appears again to great advantage, as we enter the Lake from the channel of the River; but before we proceed, it will be proper to give a short account of a very extra p. 110ordinary personage, (Margaret ferch Evan,) who lived near this place, and denominated by Mr. Pennant, Queen of the Lakes.—He observes further, that when he visited her Cottage, at Penllyn, in 1786, she was about ninety years of age, and says, that she was the last specimen of the strength and spirit of the ancient British Fair; but the correctness of this remark may justly be doubted, as there is a Female, (Catherine Thomas) now living at Cwm glas, (about a mile above the Church of Llanberis) who is by no means inferior to Mr. P’s Heroine, either in strength or agility: the following anecdote related by herself, may be mentioned as an instance of her uncommon courage; some years age, as she was one day watching her Sheep on one of the Rocks near her house, she perceived a Stranger, (to all appearance a very strong, lusty man) enter in, and having remained there a short time, he departed; Catherine hastened home, and having examined her Cottage; she discovered that the Stranger had stolen a Silk Handkerchief, and several other articles of wearing Apparel; she immediately pursued him, and having taken in her hand the post of a small gate or wicket, and taking a shorter path, she overtook him near Gorphwysfa, almost at the upper end of the pass, (a most lonely situation) and having laid hold of him with one hand, she shook him well, in order to convince him of her p. 111strength, and then struck him with the club, or rather post, that was in the other, saying at the same time, You villain! how dare you enter into my house and steal my property? she then took from him his Wallet, and adding, Let me see what thou hast got in this bag? then emptying the contents, she took up her own property, and after giving him one or two more hard strokes, she charged him at his peril, never to enter that Vale again, otherwise he would not be suffered to depart without a much severer chastisement.  The following is another instance of her extraordinary strength: Mr. Jones, the Agent of the Copper Mines at Llanberis, about eighteen years ago, was superintending the loading of Ore, near the small Quay, at the upper end of the Lake; and Catherine happening to be one of the Spectators, Mr. J. went behind her unperceived, and laying hold of her, jocularly said, “now Catherine, suppose I push you into the Lake;”—presently, she also got behind him; and though he was a tall, strong, lusty than, she laid hold of him under the Shoulders, and holding him up nearly at arm’s length, Now Sir, said she, suppose I drop you in?  This extraordinary woman, who is of a very masculine appearance, and has a pretty long black beard, lives in a lonely Cottage, situated beyond the usual haunts of her fellow Creatures, and without a single inmate; and though her appearance p. 112is so unfeminine, yet she is humane, gentle and charitable, esteemed and respected in her neighbourhood.  After this long digression, we hasten to relate the numerous qualifications, and uncommon exploits of her rival Amazon, the before mentioned Margaret ferch Evan, whose character I shall sum up in Mr. Pennant’s own words,—She was the greatest hunter, shooter, and fisher of her time; she kept a dozen at least, of Dogs, Terriers, Greyhounds, and Spaniels, all excellent in their kinds.—She killed more Foxes in one year, than all the confederate Hunts do in ten;—rowed stoutly, and was Queen of the Lakes;—fiddled excellently, and knew all our old music;—did not neglect the mechanic arts, for she was a good Joiner, and made Cards for dressing Wool; and at the age of seventy, was the best wrestler in the country, few young men daring to try a fall with her.—Some years ago, she had a Maid of congenial qualities, but Death, “that mighty hunter,” earthed this faithful companion of her’s; Margaret was also Blacksmith, Shoemaker, Boat-builder, and maker of Harps:—she could also mow Hay, shoe her own Horses, make her own Shoes, and build her own Boats, while she was under contract to convey the Copper ore down the Lakes.  We must not forget, that all the neighbouring Bards paid their addresses to her, and celebrated the exploits of their beloved Margaret, in pure p. 113British verse; at length she gave her hand to the most effeminate of her admirers, (who was a harper) as if predetermined to maintain the superiority which nature had bestowed on her.

About half a mile to the North of Pen y Llynn, (or the lower end of the Lake) are the remains of Llys Dinorddwig, a house said to have been one of the Palaces of Prince Llewelyn ap Gruffydd; the walls high and strong, the hall twenty-four yards long, and before the house is a deep ditch, over which had probably been a drawbridge.  Not very far from hence is a spot called Rhiw’r Cyrn, or the Brow of the Horns, where according to ancient usage, an Officer stood and blew his horn, to give notice to the Household of the approach of their Master, or to summon the Vassals to assemble on all emergent occasions.  Near this place was discovered, about twenty years ago, a Stone, about Four Feet in length, one in breadth, and about Six Inches thick, with the following inscription, IMP Q TRO DECIO VS.—Persons going up the Lake may be landed either near the New Inn, or on the Meadow below Mr. Smith’s Cottage, or they may proceed to the extremity of the upper Pool, and walk from thence to the Village, which is about a quarter of a mile distant, and procure refreshment at Robert Closs’s, who keeps a small Inn there; the Landlord of this House, as well as Pierce Jones, who lives at the other Inn, p. 114are both very civil and obliging men, and will either act as Guides themselves, or will procure persons to attend any Gentlemen up Snowdon, or to any of the neighbouring Villages: Ponies may also be obtained at both these Houses: and though the accommodations may not be equal to what we generally meet with in large Towns, and on Public Roads, yet the Botanist, the Mineralogist, the Artist, the Angler, and in short every person who is an admirer of Nature, and is fond of the wonderful and sublime, will contrive to remain a few days in this romantic, though secluded spot.  One Day may be well employed in examining Mr. Smith’s Quarries, yr Allt Ddu, and Clogwyn y Gigfran, and observing the men while at work, many of whom descend fifteen or twenty yards, by the assistance of two Ropes, (one about their middle, and the other in their hands) to a small ledge, over a dreadful precipice, where they continue engaged for many hours, in boring, or detaching considerable fragments from the main Rock, and ascend again in the same manner.—A visit to Twll Du, a stupendous roche fendue, or split Rock, near Llyn y Cwn, about three miles North of the Village, and mentioned by Mr. Pennant, might be recommended, as a very rational and pleasing amusement for the second Day: this might also include a walk over Glydair Fawr, to examine the immense columnar Rocks on Glydair Bach; p. 115and noticed by the same Gentleman, one of which it about 25 Feet long, and six broad; the summit of this Mountain is covered with groups of these columnar Stones, lying in all directions, and in some places piled one upon the other.  From the two Glydairs’ may be seen several Lakes, such as Llyn Idwal, Llyn Bochlwyd, and Llyn Ogwen; and also the Great Irish Road, leading from Bangor Ferry to Capel Curig.  From this eminence may also be surveyed that most singular Mountain called Trevaen, (trifurcated) which is more conical, more insulated, and more completely detached from all the surrounding Hills and Rocks, than perhaps any other in the Principality, and it is so steep on every side, that it is considered, even by the Shepherds, a Feat of great vigour, agility, and courage, to ascend this stupendous natural Pyramid; and there being two columnar Rocks on the very summit, about 8 Feet high, and nearly 4 from each other, and overhanging a most frightful Precipice, and the space on the top of each very confined, it is thought a proof of noble daring, to challenge each other to climb up, and step from one to the other; these stones, at a particular part of the Road from Ogwen Pool to Capel Curig, have the appearance of two men, and it is jocularly related by the Peasants, that a Gentleman once stood a considerable time expecting them either to move or come p. 116down.  The Mountains in this part of Carnarvonshire, (observes Mr. Pennant) are of a stupendous height, mostly precipitous, the tops of many edged with pointed Rock; I have, from the depth below, says he, seen the Shepherds skipping from peak to peak, but the point of contact was so small, that from this distance, they seemed to my uplifted eyes, like beings of another Order, floating in the Air.  And lastly Snowdon, will no doubt occupy one or two days more, in a most pleasing and agreeable manner.

There are three different Routs by which Strangers are generally conducted up this celebrated Mountain: the best, and most usual, is that commencing between the New Inn and Dolbadarn Castle, near the Bridge, and following the course of the River for about a quarter of a mile, and passing very near the Waterfall called Caunant Mawr, then turning to the left, and pursuing the Copper Sledge path-way, along the South slope of the ridge of Hills between the upper vale of Llanberis and Cwm Brwynog, as far as the Sheep-fold, and the Copper Mine at the upper end of Waun Cwm Brwynog; then turning to the left, (or North) and winding up the side of the slope or ridge, cross over till we are in view of the Llanberis pass, above the Church.  During the first part of our progress, the view was confined, but here on this mountain p. 117flat, the prospect is extensive, particularly to the North West, where the greatest part of the Island of Anglesey is visible; and to the East, a portion of Denbighshire may be seen, between the mountains.  We now begin to ascend Llechwedd y Re, the formidable slope above Llyn du yr Arddu, or otherwise, Clogwyn Coch, and Clogwyn du’r Arddu, the two precipices impending over that once black, but now green Pool; (from the effects of the Copper) after this last ascent is surmounted, the progress is easy, and the rise very gradual, for upwards of half a mile, till we join the Bettws, or Quellyn Copper Ore path, near Bwlch Glas gap, before mentioned; from thence to the peak the distance is something more than a quarter of a mile, and the ascent easy.  There was a circular wall formerly on the summit, (which is not much more than from six to eight yards square) to shelter the visitors from the cold, but the Bethgelert Guide, named Lloyd, having collected a sum of money, (about five Pounds as it is supposed) from different Gentlemen; in order to build a small hut, or shed, he made use of the Stones for that purpose; but the miserable building which he erected, and which is nothing more than a heap of stones piled together in the form of a small Stack of Corn, could not have cost him more than twenty or thirty Shillings, and is on the east side, about ten yards below the apex; but p. 118at present is of no use, as it is nearly coming down:—Here it is usual for Strangers to leave their names inscribed on the ruins of this small Building.—Small stones are frequently found near this spot, bearing the impression of different Shells.  From this elevated situation may be seen, in clear weather, the Wicklow Hills, on the West; the Isle of Man, and the Cumberland and Westmoreland Mountains, on the North and North East; and a part of South Wales to the South West: The best time for such a view are the months of June and July, when it will be necessary to be on the Mountain before Sun-rise, as mists and fogs generally collect soon after.—It would not however, be advisable for persons of a tender habit, or delicate constitution, to attempt such an arduous undertaking, particularly in the night: at the same time it may be safely asserted, that no person who is equal to the task, will ever have occasion to regret having ascended Snowdon, even in cloudy weather; particularly if the Sun should occasionally appear, as in this aerial region the scenery and the views are perpetually shifting and changing; and many have been known to prefer, a partially cloudy or misty, to a hot sultry day, (though tolerably clear) for such an excursion.  We shall here beg leave to introduce some extracts from a Letter received by a young Lady, in which her Friend gives a very lively and interesting description p. 119of the pleasure she enjoyed on a visit to Snowden, in such weather as that above described: “My dear Friend,—I considered myself particularly unfortunate in not finding you at home, during my visit to North Wales; especially as I remained so long in your immediate neighbourhood.  Perhaps you may recollect telling me, with what (I must confess) I then thought a prejudiced affection for your native scenery; ‘that no season or weather, could deprive Snowdon of its powers of amazing, and delighting.’  The truth of your remark forced itself into my mind, during two successive days, on which I ascended its lofty summit.  The accounts of those two days, and the light in which my English feelings regarded your Country scenes, will, I trust, not be uninteresting.  The morning destined for our first attempt, was ushered in by one of those intense fogs, which portend a sultry day; the late learned, worthy, and much respected Counsellor Dancey, was one of the party, and several Ladies and Gentlemen: I despair of conveying to your mind, any idea of the high-wrought expectations with which I commenced the ascent of this King of Hills, and never were expectations more fully answered.  The variety, the constant succession of magnificent scenes, that gradually opened to our view, are absolutely indiscribable.  You may conceive a group, (for we found other parties on p. 120the summit) of apparently aerial beings, standing on an elevated peak, literally above the clouds; for the glorious source of day, shed his Beams upon our heads, while our feet were enveloped in mist.—Picture to yourself the Sea, when agitated by a storm, suddenly arrested by an intense Frost, for such was, absolutely, the appearance, the congregated mists and clouds, represented to our astonished and enraptured eyes.  In the course of about ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour, this irregular surface of waves began to break up and separate; and like an immense Army, sent advanced guards, and columns in different directions.  The commotion, at the first breaking up, and the regular movements afterwards, were grand and magnificent beyond description.  After these advanced guards (which were generally fleecy, transparent clouds, with fringes and festoons hanging in different fantastic shapes, and reflected Beams of the Sun, throwing golden tints upon their edges) came the main Army.  Presently through the mist, several huge Mountains reared their Leviathan backs, and immense projections, appearing like so many capes and promontaries, stretching out into an endless Ocean; while other rocks assumed the appearance of small conical Islands, in this resplendent abyss.  In a short time, these advancing Armies regularly encamped, or bovouack’d for the night, in the different passes, p. 121and excavations of the mountains; this was not all, for as we descended, while these beautifully transparent mists were quietly at rest, some hundreds of yards below us, we suddenly beheld huge gigantic shadows, thrown athwart the immense abyss.  This was about fire in the evening, for with a reluctance similar to that of our great progenitors, in leaving Paradise, we lingered on the summit some hours.  We stopped and gazed, our sticks and umbrellas were converted, by the reflection, into Goliah of Gath’s tremendous club or weaver’s beam;—we began to brandish these weapons, and to our great amusement and astonishment, our lengthened bulky shadows gently imitated our different movements.  At length we tore ourselves from these grand and sublime scenes, and arrived by the dusk of the evening at the pleasant little Inn of Llanberris.  Having been so much delighted the first, I was easily induced (undeterred by heat and fatigue) to join a party of friends, who were going up the following day;—about half way, we had a fine distant view of Anglesey, with the indentures formed in its coast by the Sea; a thick mist overtook us, and shut the fairy scene from our eyes.—We reached the summit completely enveloped in clouds, which gradually opening, the Elyssian Vale of Nanthwynant burst upon the sight; the clouds soon covered it again, but we were amply compensated by a view of an p. 122extensive tract of Sea and Land, terminated by the faintly marked outline of South Wales.—Soon another opening presented the romantic region of Capel Curig, which with the variety of Lakes that appeared on every side, with the Sun shining upon many of them, afforded a most enchanting coup de œil.—At this moment the attention of the party was most forcibly arrested by the appearance of our shadows reflected upon the mists, (but not so lengthened as the day before, as it was earlier in the afternoon) and encircled by three Rainbows of the most vivid and distinct colours.—The effect was beyond description.  It was then that the thought of the great Creator of all these Wonders rushed upon the mind.  What an awful, incomprehensible Being must He be, who with one word, formed these grand and magnificent scenes, and at whose nod, they shall crumble into dust!

These are thy glorious works!  Parent of good,
Almighty; thine this universal frame,
Thus wondrous fair; Thyself how wondrous then!”

Parties generally take cold meat with them, and a bottle either of Wine, or Spirits, and dine at the Spring or Well near the side of the Quellyn Copper path, about two hundred yards below Bwlch Glas gap, where the Copper Ore Bin is situated.

Wyddfa, (pronounced Withva) is the Welsh name of Snowdon; and it is sometimes, though improperly, called Eryri, which appears to have p. 123been the general appellation in former days, of the whole range of mountains from Conway to Clynog: Two different derivations are generally given of the word Eryri, one is Eryr, an Eagle; and the other Eira, or Eiri, Snow; which is the most correct we will not pretend to determine, but it appears that the person who originally translated the word, considered the latter to be the genuine etymology.  The distance from Dolbadern Castle to the summit, may be about six miles; two to the Turbary flat in Waun Cwm Brwynog, two to Clogwyn Coch Copper mine, and two from thence to the top.  There are two other routs from the Village, which ought not to be attempted except by active young men; one up the steep declivity just above the Church, and the other through Hafn (pronounced Haven) Mawr, near the Old Bridge, (Bont Vawr).  The height of Snowdon, above High-water mark at Carnarvon, is 3591 Feet.

Llanberis, in the Commot of Isgorfai, and Hundred of Arfon, is a small Rectory, discharged from paying tenths, and valued in the King’s Books at £4 18s. 9d.  Patron, the Bishop of Bangor; Church, dedicated to St. Peris.  The number of inhabited Houses in the Parish, in 1811, was 86; and the resident Population 438.  Peris, to whom the Church is dedicated, is stated in our Welsh MSS. (Bonedd y Saint) to have been a Cardinal from Rome, who together p. 124with Padarn, (Paterninus) another Welsh Saint of congenial habits and disposition, it is probable, withdrew from the world to this secluded spot, as a place well adapted, according to the custom and mistaken ideas of those dark ages, for religious retirement and devotion: Peris fixed upon the upper Vale, which is still called Nant Peris; and Padern chose the lower, distinguished in Leland’s time by the name of Nant Padarn; as the properest situation for the erection of their respective cells.—Eglwys Padarn, (the ruins of which many persons now living recollect to have seen) was situated on a meadow, near the lower Lake, called Llyn Padarn, on the left of the road in going from the Inn to the old Castle.  Cadvan, another religious devotee, came from Armorica into Wales about the same time, and became Abbot of Bardsey.  The upper Lake is about a mile in length, and a quarter wide, and is said to be twenty Fathoms deep particularly near a place called Diphwys:—and the lower Lake, called Llyn Padarn, is about three miles in length, and upwards of half a mile broad; both the Pools abound in Trout, and Char; Salmon are also frequently taken in them.  Not far from the Church is the Saint’s Well, where a large Trout has for ages been exhibited to Strangers; his appearance is considered a fortunate omen, and his non-appearance the contrary; the present fish is about 20 or 30 p. 125years old; the wonderful Pass, and two Cromlech’s, about two miles above the Church, are well worth examining.—Some hopes are entertained, that the beauties of this little Vale, will in time be accessible to strangers, by the opening of a good Carriage Road this way to Capel Curig.  An Old Woman, many years ago, is said to have made use of the hollow, under one of the before mentioned Cromlechs, (or fragments of Rocks) as her dairy, during the Summer months.  The distance from the Village to Capel Curig, is about 8 miles; and to Bethgelert, through Nanthwynant, 11 or 12.  The upper end of the Pass, is called Gorphwysva, or the Resting Place.  There are three other Lakes in the Parish, besides those already mentioned, viz. Llynn Cwm Dwthwch, in which there are very fine flavored trout, and on which a small boat is kept for the use of anglers, by Pierce Jones, the Innkeeper.  This pool is the source of the river Hwch, flowing near the Castle.—Llyn y Cwn, to the North, and Llyn Cwm Ffynnon, to the N.E. of the village; in the former are some aquatic plants, particularly the Lobellia Dortmanna—Subularia Aquatica—Isoetes Lacustris; and Twll Du, below it, is the habitat of numerous and rare plants: a great variety may also be discovered on and about Allt wen, above Mr. Smith’s Cottage, between the two Lakes, as well as on Clogwyn Du’r Arddu, at the upper end of Waun p. 126Cwm Brwynog, and on Clogwyn y Garnedd, which is the tremendous precipice immediately under Snowdon, to the North.  The old Copper Mines, (Shafts, Levels, &c.) near the S.E. end of the upper Lake, also claim a visit, particularly from every Mineralogist and Geologist.  At some distance below Llynn Du’r Arddu, nearly at the upper end of Waun Cwm Brwynog, may be observed a huge black Stone, or fragment of a Rock, called Y Maen Du yn yr Arddu; under or upon which, according to the popular superstition, if a person sleep a night, he will awake either a Poet or a Madman.  The Gimlet Rock, near Pwllheli, the Studwall, (or St. Tudwal,) Islands,—the Promontory of Lleyn, (or Langanum Promontorium)—and Bardsey Island, at its extremity, may be clearly seen from Snowdon; as well as Cadair Idris Mountain, near Dolgelley, in Merionethshire, and Plinlimmon in Montgomeryshire.

The old Tower, or Castle, called Dolbadern, must at one time have been considerably larger, as the remains of other Towers, Walls, and Buildings are still visible.—It is supposed to have been erected about the beginning of the eleventh Century, or perhaps earlier, by one of the Welsh Princes, [126] for the defence of this p. 127strong Pass, and to be used occasionally as a hunting and fishing seat; for it is mentioned in the Welsh Histories, or Chronicles, considerably earlier than Edward the 1st. and there are some Welsh Poems still extant, which were addressed to Owen Goch (Rufus) during the time of his imprisonment in this Fortress by his Brother Llewelyn ap Griffith, last Prince of Wales, of the British line, which was from the year 1254 to 1277, being 23 years: The following is a part of an Ode, (Awdl) composed by Howel Voel ap Griffri ap Pwyll Gwyddel, lamenting the confinement of that Prince:

Duw mawr amerawdwr dyniadon,
Dillwng dy walch, terwyn-walch tirion,
Dewr Owain, den-rudd liw ffion,
Dur-goch Bâr, llachar, llawch Deon, &c.

“Great God, the supreme Governor of the World, release from captivity, the mild, the brave, the Lion-hearted Owen; with the ruddy Cheeks, and his bright-gleaming steel Lance, tinged with the blood of his enemies; the defender of all those who come to seek his protection;—he never dismissed the injured suppliant unredressed,—the reliever of the oppressed—the generous distributor of costly gifts.  The Earth appears desolate, since he has been in confinement,—the hopes of his dependants are fled, and grief and disappointment will convey his friends and adherents to the gloomy mansions of the dead.—Daring, enterprising, successful, p. 128conquering General!  He disdained to hoard up useless treasures.—He was the Idol and Delight of his Countrymen,” &c.  See the remainder in the Myvyrian Archaiology already mentioned.

Another Poem, by the same Bard, begins thus:

Gwr sydd yn y twr yn hir westi,
Gwreidd, Teyrneidd, Teyrn-walch Ri,
Gwr a’m dothyw, gwall o’i golli,—o fyw
Gwreidd-liw, a glyw ei glodfori, &c.

The following attempt at a versification of the commencement, though, very far inferior to the original, may, nevertheless, give the English reader some idea of the strength and spirit of the composition:

In yonder Tower my darling Owen groans,
Oppress’d with grief, I hear his piteous moans;
Ah wretched Prince! within those walls confin’d,
A Brother’s victim—thus to death consign’d;
What mournful sounds, were to my ears convey’d,
As late dejected, o’er these rocks I stray’d;
Brave Owen’s name shall dwell upon my tongue
His matchless deeds, shall by the muse be sung
From ancient Princes, we his Lineage trace,
And valiant Chiefs, adorn his noble race;
No more his gates receive the crouded throng,
His guests no longer hear the minstrel’s song:
In war distinguish’d by his broken shield,
Like valiant Rodri, [128a] he disdain’d to yield:
Shame that a Prince, should thus in bondage pine,
Whose acts, if free, would Rhun’s [128b] fam’d deeds outshine
These lands ne’er saw the Saxon’s fire and sword,
Till he knew durance vile from Snowdon’s Lord, &c.

The reader is referred for the remainder to the publication before mentioned.

Bishop Godfrey Goodman, purchased a Farm (Ty Du) in this Parish, where he resided during the greatest part of the usurpation of Oliver p. 129Cromwell.  He was a native of Ruthin, and left that Farm and Coed Mawr, towards the maintenance of the poor of his native parish.  He died Bishop of Gloucester, and made a most singular Will, printed in York’s five Royal Tribes.  About 37 years ago, a remarkably strong man, (Foulk Jones) lived at Ty Du; many wonderful things are related of him, such as his carrying the largest end of a piece of timber, while it required three men to support the other;—his holding a bull, with one hand, by the horns;—carrying a yearling heifer, that was unwell, home from the field;—throwing a Denbighshire Champion, who had heard of his strength, and was come over, either to fight or wrestle with him, over a wall from a field into the road; and he is said to have lifted a strong man, who insulted him, at Carnarvon, over the battlements of the Bridge, and to have held him over the water, until he had submitted to make an apology, for having so attacked him without any provocation.  Many persons now living recollect this man; he was a person of sober, peaceable habits, and much beloved and respected by all his neighbours.

The Rev. Evan Evans, alias Prydydd Hir, Author of Dissertatio de Bardis, Specimens of Ancient British or Welsh Poetry; The Love of our Country, 2 Vols. of Welsh Sermons, 8vo. &c. was Curate of Llanberis in the year 1771.  He p. 130was then employed in collecting and transcribing Welsh MSS. and had access to the libraries of most of the gentlemen of North Wales, particularly to the valuable collections of Sir W. W. Wynne, Bart. (the present gentleman’s father, and from whom he received a Pension of £20. per Annum, which was afterwards withdrawn), those of Hengwrt, near Dolgelley, Gloddaith, near Conway, and Plas Gwynn, P. Panton’s, Esq. Anglesey.  Mr. Evans born at Gynhawdref, near Aberystwith, in Cardiganshire, was educated at the Grammar School of Ystrad Meirig, in the same County, under the celebrated Mr. Richards, many years master of that School.  He shewed an early attachment to the Welsh Muse, and was soon noticed by Mr. Lewis Morris, the famous Antiquary and Bard, who conceived a very favorable opinion of his abilities, from some of his juvenile compositions, in his native language.—Mr. Evans was of Merton College, Oxford; he is said to have died in great distress and poverty, at the place of his nativity, August, 1789, in the 58th year of his age.  The inhabitants of Llanberis still shew a pool in the river where he used to bathe.  The late Rev. B. Williams, of Vron, near Bala, Mr. Pennant’s companion in his Welsh Tour, composed the following lines to his memory, which may not be unacceptable to our readers, particularly at the present period, when the love of Welsh Literature seems to be reviving:

   p. 131On Snowdon’s haughty brow I stood,
And view’d, afar, old Mona’s flood;—
Carnarvon Castle, Eagle-crown’d,
And all the glorious prospect round.
   But soon each gay idea fled,
For Snowdon’s favorite Bard is dead;—
Poor Bard, accept a genuine tear,
And read thy true eulogium here;
Here, in my heart, that rues the day,
That stole Eryri’s pride away:
But lo! where seen, by fancy’s eye,
His visionary form glides by,
Pale, ghastly pale,—that hollow cheek,—
That frantic look does more than speak,
And tells a tale so full of woe,
My bosom swells, my eyes o’erflow:—
To want and to despair a prey,
He pin’d, and sigh’d his soul away!
Ungrateful countrymen, your pride,
Your glory, wanted bread and died!
Whilst Ignorance and Vice are fed,
Shall Wit and Genius droop their head?
Shall fawning Sycophants be paid
For flattering fools? while thou art laid
On thy sick bed, the mountain [131] heath,
Waiting the slow approach of Death,
Beneath inhospitable skies,
Without a friend to close thine eyes?
Thus, shall the chief of Bards expire?
The Master of the British Lyre!
And shall thy hapless reliques rot,
Unwept, unhallowed, and forgot?
No, while one grateful Muse remains,
And Pity dwells on Cambria’s plains,
Thy mournful story shall be told,
And wept till Time itself grows old.

R. WILLIAMS, of Vron, near Bala.—1799.

About the year 1805, John Closs, son of Robert Closs, the Innkeeper at Llanberis, a little boy about seven years of age, was persuaded to go and reside with his grandmother, at Caeau gwynion, in Nant y Bettws, not far from Quellyn Pool, and his mother having come to see him, the love of home revived in his memory, and the thoughts of seeing his brothers and sisters became so powerful, that he resolved to follow his mother p. 132to Llanberis, unknown both to her and his grandmother; he therefore pursued her up the mountain at some distance: it was in the winter time, late in the evening, and it began to snow, he lost his way, and after wandering some time, he perished on the mountain.  His mother, (though she once fancied she heard a child crying) thought he was at his grandmother’s, and the did woman concluded he was gone home with his mother, thus both being deceived, it was some time before it was known that he had followed his mother on that fatal evening; after two or three days painful search, (numbers of the neighbours having collected together) his body was found at the verge of a precipice, near the top of Moel Aelia.  The following lines were composed on that melancholy occasion:

A luckless lad, one winter’s day,
Unknown to Granny, ran away,
Nor longer at her house would stay
               Without his mother.

Unknowing that her child pursu’d,
The gathering storm, unmov’d, she view’d,
The thoughts of home her strength renew’d;—
               Alas poor mother!

With feebler steps, and fainter cry,
Alarm’d, he sees the dark’ning sky,
Yet still he hop’d that she was nigh,
               And sobb’d my mother.

Dark was the night, the snow descends,
Near Aelia’s top his life he ends,
As home his weary way he beads,
               Nor longer cries my mother!

Some of our readers may probably be pleased and amused with the following extracts from Leland, respecting Llanberis and its neighbourhood:

p. 133“Linne Dolbaterne, 2 miles in length, and a diminutive mile in breadth; Vallis Monachus, alias Nant Manach, or Peris, is the upper Valley, in which is Linne Peris, a mile in length, and a dim half in breadth.—Segent (Seiont) cometh first through Llynn Peris, and a bow shot off, runneth into Llyn Padarn; there is but a meadow and bridge between these two pools.—In these two pooles be redde belly fishes, called thorr gough (Tor goch) id est, thori aut pectoris rubri.  There be also some of these in Linne Tarddynni, (Cawellyn) and in Linne Bala deulynn, (Llanllyfni Lakes); they be taken in these three pooles in order, and taken in one and not seen in the other; Linne Doythock nothing so big as Linne Peris: these three, Linne Peris, Linne Padarn, and Linne Doythock, are all in the Parish of Llanberis, and the lowest Lake is five miles E.S.E. from Carnarvon, and lie in vallies, W.N.W. from Llanberis.  Bala Deulynn is in Hugh Gurvai (Uwch Gorfai) Hundred, and six miles (nine miles) beyond Carnarvon; the others, viz. Linne Peris, Linne Dolpaterne, Linne Doythock, and Linne Tarddynni, are in the Commot of Is Gorvai, (infra Gwyrvai) and all the great Withaw Hill [133] is wholly in this Commot; this hill is all in the Parish of Peris, and is a p. 134radicibus five miles to the top.  Dolbaterne Castle, on a rock, betwixt two Linnes; there is yet a piece of a Tower, where Owen Gough (Goch) brother to Llywelyn, last Prince, was in prison; it is in Is Gwrfai Commot.  Dolbadarn a five miles from Carnarvon, by E.S.E. hard by Linne Peris; Segent (Seiont) as I heard say riseth at Linne Dolbaterne.  This Pool is three miles in length, and in some places a mile broad, and in diverse places less and less; it lieth by Withaw Hill, (Snowdon) and is distant 5 miles from Carnarvon, towards S.E.—The best Wood of Carnarvonshire is by Glynn Cledair, in the Parish of Dolwyddelen, and by Glynn Lligwy, and by Capel Curig, and at Llanperis,—all Creigiau’r Ryri is Forest.  Metely good wood about Conway Abbey, and Penmachno, and about Coetmore, and Coet Park, by Bangor, and other places; in Lleyn and Eivionydd is little wood.  Carnarvonshire, about the shore, hath reasonable good corn, about a mile upward from the shore unto Carnarvon,—then more upward be Eryri Hills, and in them is very little corn, except oats in some places, and a little barley, but scantly rye, if there were the Deer would destroy it; but in Lleyn and Eifionydd is good corn, both by shore, and almost through upland.  Syr Gul. Griffith hath a fayr House at Penrynn, two miles on this side Bangor; William vab William, dwelleth at a place called Gochwillan, p. 135a mile on this side Penryn; William Coetmore, dwelleth at Coetmore, by Tal Lynn Ogwen; Pillsdon, in Caerarvon Town; John vab Madock vab Poel, dwelleth in Lleen, at Bodvel; John Wynne, vab Meredith, dwelleth at Gweder, a two bow shots above Llanrwst, on the Ripe (Bank) of the Conwy River; Elis vab Morris, at Clennenna, in Penmorva Parish, in Comot Hinioneth (Eifionydd).”

Should the stranger not be disposed to accompany us in our Tour round the Promontory of Lleyn, and to the Island of Bardsey, (which, by the bye, we hope to render both interesting and amusing), he may proceed from Carnarvon to Bethgelert, and from thence, along the sea coast, to Barmouth, by Tremadoc and Harlech; or, from Pont Aberglaslyn to Tan y Bwlch, Meantwrog, Trawsfynydd, and so by Dol y Melynllyn, and the Cain and Mawddach Waterfalls to Dolgelley.  The distance from Carnarvon to Bethgelert is about 12 miles: we proceed up the Hill, by Llanbeblig, (the Parish Church) then over Pont Peblig Bridge, about half a mile beyond which, on the left, is Glangwnna, the beautiful and much-admired seat of Thomas Lloyd, Esq. standing on a fine eminence, between two rivers, at the western extremity of the Parish of Llanrug; this place, in point of situation, possesses many natural advantages, and all the improvements exhibit evident tokens of a judicious mind, p. 136and cultivated taste, as it contains, within its own limits, all the requisites to form a fine landscape, and has on one side an extensive sea prospect, on the other, a range of majestic mountains; upon the whole, this is generally considered as one of the sweetest and loveliest Villas in this part of the Principality.  On the right, about the same distance from the road, is Penrhôs, a large, handsome house, lately built by the proprietor, H. R. Williams, Esq.; it commands a fine view of the Castle, the Menai, Carnarvon Bay, and the surrounding Scenery.  About three miles farther, we approach the beautiful little vale of Bettws Garmon, watered by the river Gwyrfai, the source of which is at the foot of Snowdon, and after running through Quellyn Lake, and under Pont Newydd Bridge, it empties itself into the Menai, at Abermenai.  On the right, Mynydd-mawr forms a striking feature, its top is smooth, but its front is formed into an immense precipice, retiring inwards in a semicircular shape.  Moel Aelia, on the left, is another mountain of a stupendous bulk, most regularly rounded, and of a beautiful verdure; this pass was defended, on one side, by Castell Cidwm, a great rock at the foot of Mynydd mawr, formerly fortified, and on the other by a small Fort, the remains of which are still visible, near Treflan Bettws is a perpetual Curacy; the Church is very small, and is dedicated to St. Germanus, p. 137and the Parish consists only of six or seven tenements; the corn tithe belongs to the family of Glyn Llifon; it is in the patronage of the Bishop.  About half a mile beyond Bettws, near a small mill, Melin Cerrig y Rhyd, commonly called Nant Mill, is a most beautiful cascade, and a small Arch, without any Battlements, forming a very singular appearance, of which there is a view, in Mr. Pennant’s Tour, representing a person on horseback, going home over this little Bridge, with a load from the mill.  On the left is Nant Hall, one of the seats of Sir R. Williams, Bart. Member for this County.—The present lord Viscount Bulkeley is a descendant (by the mother’s side) of the Rowland’s of this house.—Soon after passing Nant, the Vale expands with a magnificent view of Snowdon—travel along the side of Llyn Cawellyn, pass the Snowdon guide’s house, and proceed to the junction of the Drws y Coed road, near a small Bridge, about a quarter of a mile beyond Quellyn Lake, and soon after arrive in view of Llynn Cader, a small round pool on the right, respecting which the Welsh people relate a ridiculous tale, that a gentleman’s hounds, in former days, started, on a rock near this Lake, a strange kind of an animal (Aur Frychyn) with tufts of hair shining like gold, nearly approaching, according to their representation, to a species of Buffalo, and that he was pursued for some time and killed, near a p. 138place called Nant y lle, and that he bellowed so loud when taken that the rocks rent.  After travelling about two miles, we begin to descend towards Bethgelert, and observe, on the right, Moel Hebog, a lofty conical Hill, which Lord Lyttleton ascended from Brynkir, when he made the Tour of North Wales.  Bethgelert is a neat little village, in a romantic situation, between high mountains; here is a good Inn, surrounded with thriving plantations, built about eighteen years ago, by Thomas Jones, Esq. of Bryn Tirion, before mentioned.  The Church is small, and has been Conventual, belonging to a Priory of Augustines, and dedicated to St. Mary.  There is reason to suppose, says Mr. Pennant, they might have been of that class which was called Gilbertines, and consisted of both men and women, who lived under the same roof, but strictly separated from each other by a wall; the cause of his suspicion is a meadow, near the Church, called Dol y Lleian, the Nun’s meadow.  Bethgelert is supposed to be the most ancient foundation in the Country, except Bardsey.  Tanner ascribes it to our last Prince, but it must have been long before his days, there being a recital of a Charter, for certain Lands bestowed on it, by Llewelyn the Great, who began his reign in 1194.  It was favored, in the same manner, by other succeeding Princes; David ap Llewelyn bestowed on it some Lands in Pennant Gwernogan, p. 139belonging to Tudor ap Madoc, to which the Prince had no right; this occasioned a suit between the sons of Tudor and Philipp, Prior of the House, before William de Grandison, and R. de Stanedon, at Caernarvon, when a verdict was given against the Convent.  The Prior had for his support the Grange of Llecheiddior, in Eifionydd, and part of a mill; the Grange of Fentidillt, and Village of Gwehelyn; the Grange of Tre’r Beirdd in Anglesey, one Plough Land, and a certain share of the bees.  The esteem which these insects were held in by the Ancient Britons, on account of their producing the nectareous Mead, was so great, that they considered them as created in Paradise, that when they quitted it on the fall of man, they were blessed by God himself, and therefore no Mass ought to be celebrated but by the light of their wax, as we read in the laws of Howel Dda.  The Prior had, besides, an allowance of fifty cows and twenty-two sheep; the expences of the house must have been considerable, for it was on the great road from England and South Wales to North Wales, and from Ireland to England.  In order to enable this place to keep up its usual hospitality, after it had suffered in 1283, by a casual fire, Edward 1st most munificently repaired all the damages; and Bishop Anian, about the year 1286, for the encouragement of other benefactors, remitted to all such who truly repented of their p. 140sins, forty days of any penance inflicted on them.  In 1535 it was bestowed by Henry VIII. on the Abbey of Chertsey, in Surrey, and in 1537, it was given, with the last, as an Appurtenance to that of Bisham, in Berkshire.  On the dissolution, the King gave to the family of the Bodvels, all the Lands in Carnarvonshire, which belonged to this Priory, and all those in Anglesey, to that of the Prydderchs, excepting the Township of Tre’r Beirdd.  The Revenues of Bethgelert were valued, by Dugdale, at Seventy Pounds, Three Shillings and Eight-pence; by Speed, at Sixty-nine Pounds, Three Shillings, and Eight-pence.  Edward Conway is mentioned as last Prior.  There are no remains at present of the Convent.—Mr. Pennant had in his possession a drawing of the Seal of the Priory, dated 1531; on it was the figure of the Virgin and child, but no part of the Legend except BETHKELE.  Lewis Daron, a Bard of the 15th Century, in a Poem, (the purport of which is to solicit David the Prior to bestow a fine bay horse, then in his possession, on John Wynne, of Gwydir, Esq.) extols him on account of his great learning and liberality.—Hence we are led to suppose that this Monk was very opulent, and a popular character in his time.  The ground on the South side of the Church, seems to have been the spot, says Mr. Williams, late of Llandegai, in his “Observations on the Snowdon Mountain,” whereon stood p. 141the buildings which the Monks formerly inhabited, and we may discover two or three arched doors, now closed up on that side of the Church, through which these religious persons probably entered, when they went to their devotions; there is likewise an ancient Mansion House, near the Church, which probably was the habitation of the Prior.  In this house was shewn, some years ago, an old pewter mug, which will contain two quarts, or more, and was called the Bethgelert Pint, and any person who could grasp it in one hand, and drink up the contents, (which was ale) at one draught, was entitled to the liquor, gratis, and the tenant was to charge the value of it to the Lord of the Manor, as part payment of his rent.  At Bethgelert lie buried two eminent Bards, Rhys Goch Eryri, and Dafydd Nanmor; the former died about the year 1420, and it may be inferred, from his writings (many of which are still extant) that he lived to the great age of 120.  He was a man of property, and lived at Hafod Garegog, situated beyond Pont Aberglaslyn, on the road to Tan y Bwlch, and consequently in the County of Merioneth, though within the limits of this Parish.  The latter resided at Nanmor, which is also a district of this Parish, on the same side of the river.  He died about A.D. 1460, and appears to have been a person of some consequence; they were both learned men, (considering the age they lived in) as their compositions abundantly testify.

p. 142To the N.E. of the village, is the entrance into the beautiful little Vale of Nant Gwynant, which, though narrow at first, expands and unfolds its beauties, as the traveller advances; this valley may be considered, however, as consisting of two portions or divisions, separated by a narrow defile; at the upper end of the lower vale is Llynn Dinas Emrys, and just above it, commanding a delightful view of that Lake, the River, the Woods, Mountains, &c. and particularly of Snowdon, is Plâs Gwynant, the romantic Summer residence of D. Vaudrey, Esq.  Just below this small Lake, and nearly in the centre of the Vale, appears the famous Dinas Emrys, which is a huge insulated rock, clothed with wood, and precipitous on three sides; on the summit is a large area, but no remains of a Castle.  On the accessible side are three ramparts of stone, within which is the ruin of a small stone building, about ten yards long, the walls without any mortar.  This place is from early times celebrated in British story, for here

Prophetic Merlin sat, when to the British King,
The changes long to come, auspiciously he told.

The legend is thus told: when Vortigern found himself unable to contend with the treacherous Saxons, whom he had, in the year 449, invited into Britain, he determined, by the advice of his Magicians, on building an impregnable fortress in Snowdon.  He collected the materials, which p. 143all disappeared in one night.—The Prince, astonished at this, convened again his wise men, who assured him his building would never stand, unless it was sprinkled with the blood of a child, born without the help of a father; the Realm was ransacked,—at length, one of his emissaries overheard some boys at play reproach another, and call him an unbegotten knave.  The child and his mother were brought before the King,—she confessed he was the offspring of an Incubus.  The boy, whose name was Merlin, was ordered to be sacrificed, but on confounding all the Magicians, with his questions, and explaining the cause of the miscarriage, got his liberty, and

   To that mighty King, who rashly undertook
A strong wall’d Tower to rear, those earthly spirits that shook
The great foundation still, in Dragon’s horrid shape
That dreaming wizzard told, making the mountain gape
With his most powerful charms, to view those caverns deep
And from the top of Brith, so high and wondrous steep,
Where Dinas Emrys stood, shewed where the serpent fought,
The white that tore the red, from whence the Prophet wrought
The Britons sad decay, then shortly to ensue.

The above is Drayton’s translation of the legend, in his Polyolbion.  Merlin, or Merddin Emrys, or Ambrosius, was in fact the son of a noble Roman of the same name; his mother, a vestal, to save her life and honor, invented the fable of his father, which was swallowed by the credulity of the times.  Merlin, or Myrddin, was an able Mathematician and Astronomer, and deeply read in all the learning of his age.  The vulgar, as usual, ascribed all he did to the art of magic, and his discovery, that Vortigern had p. 144begun to found his Castle on a Morass, was immediately said to have been attended with most portentous circumstances; numbers of Prophecies were attributed to him, the repetition of which is said to have been forbidden, by the Council of Trent; however, since it is certain that Vortigern, after his misfortunes, retired to the Snowdon Hills, and died not very remote from them, it is possible he might have selected this for his strong hold, as it is admirably adapted for that purpose, and nearly fills the streight of the valley, and Merlin Ambrosius might have given to it the name of Emris.  A place close by, styled Cell y Dewiniaid, or the Cell of the Diviners, allusive to the Magicians of Vortigern’s Court, is another circumstance which favors the history of this celebrated supposed Prophet, and not at a great distance, are some large stones, which are called Beddau’r Dewiniaid, the Tombs of the Magicians.  There is a tradition also, that within this rock there is a Cave, the mouth of which is now shut up, where Merddin concealed some valuable articles, particularly a golden chair, lest they should fall into the enemy’s hands.  The upper Lake is called Llyn Gwynant,—the distance between the two is something more than a mile, and near the road are some beautiful thriving plantations, belonging to the Rev. H. Wynne Jones, and Mr. Vaudrey, before mentioned.  On the South side of the Upper p. 145Lake, are the ruins of a small Chapel, called Capel Nan’hwynen, and it would be a great convenience to the inhabitants if it were re-built, as the distance from hence to Bethgelert is between three and four miles.  There is a tradition that Madog, the son of Prince Owen Gwynedd, resided near this spot, for some time before he left his Country, and set sail for America, and that he frequented this small Chapel, of which he is supposed to have been the founder.  Mr. Pennant pronounces this to be the most beautiful Vale in Snowdonia, being guarded on each side by vast Mountains, such as Crib Ddu, or part of Mynydd Nanmor; the Aran, on the West, Lliwedd to the North; Dduallt and Wenallt, being about five miles in extent, from its upper extremity to the Village of Bethgelert,—and varied with woods, lakes, rivers, meadows, waterfalls, and rocks of the most fantastic and picturesque appearance.  The distance from Bethgelert to Capel Curig is twelve miles, the latter part of which is over an uninteresting mountain moor, or flat; it improves a little, however, within a few miles of the last mentioned place, when we arrive in view of the two Lakes, called Llyniau Mymbir.  From Capel Curig to Bettws y Coed, or Bettws wyrion Iddon, is five miles, along the new Irish Road.  About half way between these two places is the celebrated Cataract, Rhaiadr y wennol, where the River Llugwy falls, with a p. 146tremendous roar, over some steep lofty rocks, into a deep black chasm, concealed by large oak, and dark overhanging woods.  Considerable remains of a large Roman building were discovered, some years ago, near this spot, on the Estate of the Duke of Ancaster, at a place called Bryn y Gefeiliau.  “I distinctly traced,” says Mr. Lysons, “the walls of one room, the dimensions of which were 60 feet by 20.”  This neighbourhood is supposed to have been much frequented by the Romans, on account of its Slate Quarries, and valuable Lead and Copper Mines, and it is conjectured that the Roman Road, from Pen y stryt, and Tommen y Mur, in the Parish of Trawsfynydd, passed this way to Conovium, (Caer Rhun), as it has been distinctly traced by the Church of Dolydd Helen, Cwm Pen nan’maen, Pennant, Hafodty Dôl Camman, Llechwedd Bychan, Foel Fras, and above Hafod Yspytty, &c.—Capel Curig is in the Parish of Llandegai, and was a Chapel of ease to that Church and Llanllechid, but is now served with Dolydd Helen; it is dedicated to a reputed saint of the name of Curig, respecting whom, and some other begging Friars, these Welsh lines were written:

Un o honynt, a ddygai
Curig Lwyd, dan gwr ei glôg;
Gwas arall, a ddug Seiriol,
A naw o gaws yn ei gol.

A certain Friar, to increase his store
Beneath his cloak, grey Curig’s Image bore;
And, to protect good folks from nightly harm,
Another sells St. Seiriol as a charm.

p. 147It may reasonably be supposed that St. Curig resided for some time in this sequestered spot, as we find many persons of eminence, in the fifth and sixth Centuries, to have fled from the borders of Scotland, and other parts of Great Britain, to the Mountains of Wales, to avoid the Saxon sword.  Any person who may be desirous of visiting the old British Castle of Dolydd Helen, may take a guide from Capel Curig, and cross over near the foot of that high mountain, Moel Siabod, often conspicuous from most distant places.  This fortress is situated on a high rock, precipitous on one side and insulated; it consists of two square Towers, one forty feet by twenty-five, the other thirty-one by twenty; each had formerly three floors.  This was founded by one of our Welsh Princes, but we are ignorant of its origin.—Iorwerth Drwyn dwn (or with the broken nose) made this place his residence, and here is said to have been born his son Llewelyn the Great, who began his reign in the time of Richard the first.  Meredydd ap Ievan, before mentioned, and who was brought up at Crug, near Carnarvon, and who was an ancestor of the Wynne’s of Gwydir, in the reign of Henry VII. purchased the Lease of this Castle, and the Inclosures belonging to it, from the Executors of Sir Ralph Berkenet, it having been excepted among the places granted by Richard III. and resumed by his successor.  Before that time, p. 148Howel ap Evan ap Rhys Gethin, a noted outlaw, resided here.  As soon as it came into the possession of Meredydd, he removed from his habitation in Eifionydd, (a hundred in the County) to this Castle, giving this excellent reason: “I had rather fight with outlaws and thieves, than with my own blood and kindred.  If I live in my own house in Eifionydd, I must either kill my own kinsmen, or be killed by them.”  The feuds among the principal gentlemen in Evionedd occasioned perpetual murders, and Nant-Conwy was filled with banditti.  This gentleman soon reformed the Country; he established colonies of the most tall and able men he could procure, till at last they amounted to seven score tall bowmen, every one arrayed in a jacket or armolet coat, a good steel cap, a short sword and dagger, together with his bow and arrows; many of them also had horses, and chasing slaves, which were ready to answer the cry on all occasions.  He founded the strong house of Pen nan’maen, a mile distant from the Castle.  He removed the Church, which before lay in a thicket, to a more open place, by way of security; for he never dared to quit his house, without leaving in it a strong guard, and another of twenty tall Archers to attend him, whenever he went to Church, besides a watchman, on a rock called Carreg y Bîg, to give notice of the approach of the banditti.—He ended his useful life in 1525, and left behind p. 149him twenty-three legitimate, and three natural children.—The Church had been an impropriation of the Abbey of Beddgelert; it is very small, and has in it a monument commemorating such of the family as were buried in it.  After proceeding so far, many persons may feel inclined to visit Llanrwst, the rout to which we have before described, not only on account of its celebrated Bridge, built by Inigo Jones, but in order to visit the ancient Monuments within the Gwydir Chapel, of which a most correct and beautiful view has lately been given to the public, by Mr. H. Hughes, of Llan Saint Ffraid, Glann Conwy, who is now publishing the Beauties of Cambria, and, as a native artist of genius and merit, deserves the countenance and support of every friend to his country.

We shall now return to the Village of Bethgelert, and proceed from thence to the celebrated Pont Aberglaslyn, by some called (though very improperly) the Devil’s Bridge, [149] about a mile distant; the first part of the road is through some thriving plantations, afterwards along the Banks of the River, when in a short time the mountains approach so close, as to leave only room for the furious torrent to roll over its stony bed, above which is a narrow road, formed with incredible labour, impending over the water; the scenery p. 150is the most magnificent that can be imagined: the mountains rise to very uncommon height, and oppose to us nothing but a broken series of precipices, one above the other, as high as the eye can reach.  Here is very little appearance of vegetation, yet there are small patches here and there, sufficient to tempt the poor goat to its destruction, for it will sometimes leap down to an alluring tuft of verdure, where, without possibility of return, it must remain to perish, after it has finished the dear-bought repast.  The Bridge terminates the pass, and consists of a single Arch over a deep chasm, and supported on each side by a projecting rock,—above is a small cataract, where the traveller at times may have much amusement, in observing the Salmon, in great numbers, make their efforts to surmount the heights.  Here had been a Royal weir, in the Reign of Henry IV. which was then rented by Robert ap Meredydd.  It probably belonged, in old times, to our natural Princes, for it seems to have been a most valuable privilege, as we read that young Prince Elphin was endowed with one by his Royal Father; and the celebrated Bard Taliesin, wrote a Poem to console him on his disappointment in finding one morning an empty weir, which probably in those times was very seldom the case:

Elphin deg, taw ath wylo
Na chabled neb yr eiddo
Ni wna les drwg obeithio, &c.

p. 151Elphin, fair as roseate morn,
Cease o lovely youth to mourn &c.

See Pennant’s Tour.

Not far from this Bridge is shewn a stone, by the road side, called Rhys Goch o Eryri’s chair, where it is said he used to sit and compose his Poems; and not far from Meillionen, in this Parish, was discovered in 1784, a curious Shield; supposed to be British.  There is an excellent road from Pont Aberglaslyn to Tremadoc, along the Western Banks of the Glaslyn, the distance about five miles; as also over the Bridge to Tan y Bwlch and Festiniog, which is about seven or eight.

We shall now return once more to Carnarvon, and proceed nearly along the Sea Coast, round the Promontory of Lleyn.—We have already conducted the stranger as far as the small Bridge (Pont Afon Rhyd), where the road branches off for Llanllyfni; having proceeded about a mile further, observe on the right Mount Hazel, the seat of the Rev. Glynne Bodvel Lewis, and between it and the sea Llandwrog Church, where there are several handsome Monuments, to the memory of the Wynne’s of Glynn Llivon, particularly that of Sir John Wynn, (grandfather of the present Lord Newborough,) who built that house, which is now much neglected, and greatly out of repair, owing to the minority of the proprietor.  Glynn is on the left of the road, and near the little river Llifon, issuing from the Cilgwyn p. 152Mountains.  Cilmin Droed-ddu, or Kilmin with the black foot, one of the fifteen tribes of North Wales, and nephew to Merfryn Frych, Prince of Wales, slain 841, was the founder of this family, and is said to have had his residence near this spot; they bear, in allusion to the name of their Ancestor, a man’s leg coupe a la cuisse, sable: he is said to have injured his leg in some dangerous encounter, and that it became discoloured, and that he continued lame in consequence of this unfortunate circumstance.  Glynn Llifon came into possession of the late Sir John Wynn, by the marriage of his father, Thomas Wynn, Esq. of Boduan, in Lleyn, with Frances, second daughter to John Glynn, Esq. of Glynn Llifon.—The Glynns of Lleiar, and Plas Newydd, near Glynn Llifon, were branches of this family: the latter afterwards became the property of the Owens of Bodowen, in Anglesey.  The principal Roman encampment, in this neighbourhood, is Dinas Dinlle, situated upon the verge of the Irish Channel, and almost in the centre of Carnarvon Bay; the Western part of it is washed by all the higher tides, and it is not more than ten or fifteen yards above the sea at any other time; it not only commands the Bay itself, its Creeks and Harbours, but has also a boundless prospect towards the Main Ocean, or Irish Channel, anciently called Mare Vergivium, and in Welsh, Môr Werydd, insomuch that no Vessel can pass p. 153to the Southward, without being observed by those who keep a good look out at their station.  The following Roman and British Posts and Encampments, being not far distant from the road, may be conveniently visited by the curious Tourist, as he proceeds on his journey.—Many of them appear to have been out-posts and appendages to the principal Dinas’s, and to have had a regular connection and communication with Segontium:

1.  Dinas Dinoethwy, near Pont Newydd, now the residence of Captain Jones.—Length, 180 paces; Breadth, 60; South side slope, 20; North ditto, 30.

2.  Hen Gastell, on the brook Carrog, half a mile South of the above, and in the Parish of Llanwnda.—Length, 40 paces; Breadth 30.

3.  Dinas Efrog, or Franog, near Collfryn, in Llandwrog.—Length, 70 paces; Breadth, 30.

4.  Dinas y Prif, hot far distant from the last, a Square Fort, 50 yards by 50.

5.  Craig y Ddinas, a considerable Fortification, on the River Llyfni, a little to the N.W. of Lleiar.—Length, from N. to S. 120 yards; Ditto from E. to W. 90 yards; Slope of the Inner Rampart, on the North side, 10 yards; Ditto of the Outer ditto, 8 yards; Slope on the Sooth side, 40 yards.

6.  Caer Ffridd, a Stone Fort, near Ffrwd Ysgyfarnog, not far from Glynn.

7.  Bwlan, a fortified eminence, near the same place.

8.  Brynn y Gorseddau, an eminence where there are some Druidical Remains.

9.  Carnedd Angharad, a Grave in Glynn Park, North of the house.

10.  Bedd Gwennen, another Grave, near Ffrwd Ysgyfarnog.

11.  Bettws Gwenrhyw, the ruins of an old family Chapel, belonging to Glynn.

12.  Muriau Gwilym Ddu, on Tyddyn Tudur Land, the ruins of the habitation of the old Bard of that name.

13.  Talwrn yr Arch, on Bodaden Land, and behind that house, on Rhos Tryfan Common, were visible, some years ago, several detached parts of an old Roman Road.

p. 154Llandwrog is a large extensive Parish, and contains about 10,000 Acres of Land; the resident population, in 1801, was 1175.  The Church is dedicated to St. Twrog; it is a Rectory, in the patronage of the Bishop, and is valued in the King’s Books at £11. 11s. 5½d.—Dinas Dinlle is in this Parish, the Roman Road from which to Segontium, is uncommonly interesting, as it is carried chiefly over a flat marsh, once a morass, and broken only in one part by a river, the ford over which is at this day called Rhyd y Pedestri; but Rhyd y Equestri, which is mentioned Mr. Rowlands, in his History of Anglesey, is now scarcely known.—Many Roman Coins have been discovered here, particularly those of the Emperors Gallienus, Tetricus Senior, Tetricus Cæsar, Carausius, and Alectus.

After passing Glynn, we cross the Llifon, and about two miles further the Llyfni, a rapid Stream, flowing out of Llynn Nanlle, and soon afterwards arrive at Clynnog, a neat pleasant Village, beautifully situated on a plain, near the Sea shore.  There is a very handsome venerable looking old Church, which has greatly the appearance of a Cathedral; it is built in form of a cross: the length, from East to West, is about one hundred and thirty-eight feet, and from North to South, seventy.  Near the Altar are three neat Stalls, divided by pillars supporting Gothic Arches, the seats of the officiating Priests;—the Monuments p. 155are not numerous, there is one however to William Glynn de Lleiar, with his figure and those of his wife and seven children, another to his son in law George Twisleton, Esq. of Aula Barrow in Yorkshire, and in right of his wife of Lleiar; he is generally supposed to be the same with Colonel Twisleton, who was an active officer under Cromwell, and took the gallant Sir John Owen, of Clenenney, prisoner.—Adjoining to the Church, is the Chapel of St. Beuno; the passage to it is a narrow vault, covered with large flat stones, and of far greater antiquity than either Church, or Chapel, which seem nearly coeval.  The reader will not be displeased to see the following extract from Leland, respecting this venerable old Fabrick:—“Clunnock Vawr, yn Arvon, in the Commot of Uwch Gurvay, is a great Parish, and the fairest Church in all Caernarvonshire, and is better than Bangor, is 15 miles beyond it, and about the same distance as that town from the shore.—Clunnock Vawr was some time a Monastery of White Monks, suppressed many years ago, but the original of this Monastery was by St. Beuno, of whom mention is made in St. Winifrede’s Life.  The White Monks were of a newer foundation.  Gwytheint, uncle to one of the Princes of North Wales, was the first giver of Clunnock Village and place to Benow.  The Church that is now there, with cross isles, is almost as big as St. David’s, but it is of a new p. 156work; the old Church, where St. Benow lieth, is hard by the new.”  The Chapel was probably built after Leland had visited the place, in the room of the old Church, which might have fallen to ruin.  In the middle of the Chapel was the tomb of the Saint, plain and altar shaped, but it was in a great measure demolished, about 20 years ago, when some workmen were employed by the late Lord Newborough, to dig in search of the Saint’s bones.  Votaries were wont to have great faith in him, and did not doubt but that by means of a night’s lodging on his tomb, a cure would be found for all diseases; it was customary to cover it with rushes, and leave on it till morning sick children, after making them first undergo ablution, in the neighbouring holy well.  St. Beuno, after he had assumed the Monastic habit, founded a Convent here in 616.—Cadvan, King of North Wales, was his great Patron, and promised him much Land; his son, Cadwallon, performed the promise, and received from the Saint a golden Sceptre, worth Sixty Cows; the land was afterwards claimed, in behalf of a little infant, and his title proved good,—the King refuses either to give other Land in lieu, or to resign the present, Beuno cursed him and went away, but was appeased by Gwrddeint, first cousin to the King, who overtook him, and gave the Town of Celynnog, for ever, to God and St. Beuno, for his soul’s sake, and that of p. 157the wicked Cadwallon.  Long after his time, the Carmelites, or White Monks, had here an establishment; they were however suppressed, sometime before the Lincoln Taxation, in the year 1291, as the Church was then Collegiate, consisting of five portionists or prebendaries, and it so continued to the Dissolution.  The Rectory, valued in the King’s Books at £24. is annexed to the Headship of Jesus College, Oxford, and the Vicarage, which is discharged, and valued at £6. is in the gift of the Bishop; here is an excellent Vicarage House, built by the late Vicar, the Rev. John Williams.  Under the article Tiboeth, in Dr. Davies’s Welsh-Latin and Latin-Welsh Dictionary, we have an account of a curious old M.S.: which was preserved in this Church, called Llyfr Beuno Sant, said to have been written by Twrog, and seen here by Dr. Thomas Williams, of Trefriw, in 1594.—This curious Relic, which has been missing many years, is said to have been discovered lately by Mr. Edward Williams, (alias Iolo Morganwg).—There is a tradition, that an Ancient British Town, situated near this place, called Caer Arianrhod, was swallowed up by the Sea, the ruins of which, it is said, are still visible, during neap tides, and in fine weather.  Many of the Kings, and principal inhabitants of the Country, appear to have been benefactors to the original religious establishment at this place: Cadwalader p. 158gave Grayanog,—Tegwared gave Porthamel,—Cadell bestowed Kilcourt,—Prince Mervin, Carnguwch,—Cadwgan ap Cynfelyn, Bodweiliog and Bodvel, in Lleyn,—Idwal endowed it with Penrhos and Clynnog Fechan, in Anglesey, and many others, which may be seen in Dugdale.—The offerings of calves and lambs, which happen to be born with the Nôd Beuno, mark of St. Beuno, (a certain natural mark in the ear,) have now nearly ceased; they used to be brought to the Church on Trinity Sunday, the anniversary of the Saint, and delivered to the Church Wardens, who were accustomed to sell and account for them, and put the value into a great Chest, called Cyff Beuno, made of one piece of oak, secured with three locks, from which circumstance the Welsh in these parts have a proverb, for attempting any difficult thing, “you may as well try to break St. Beuno’s Chest.”  The little money resulting from the sacred Beasts, or casual offerings, were either applied to the relief of the poor, or in aid of repairs.  There is a curious antique Chalice, preserved amongst the Communion Plate, with the following Inscription, on the lid or cover:

Tu Nazarenus Rex Judeorum
Fili Dei, miserere mei.

Those who are curious in Druidical Antiquities, may see a very uncommon Cromlech, on the Tenement of Bachwen, about half a mile from this place, between the road and the sea.  The p. 159inclination of the upper stone is to the West, on its surface are numbers of small shallow holes, with two or three larger than the rest, possibly for some purpose of augury; at thirty paces distance, is an upright stone, placed, as is supposed, to mark the limits of approach to the people, while the rites were performing by the Druid Priest.  On the left, as we proceed towards the pass or defile, between the mountains, are two lofty conical hills, called Gern Goch, and Gern Ddu; and, on the right, are those well known by the name of Rivals (yr Eifl [159]).  This Bwlch, or Pass, now called Bwlch Llanaelhaiarn, is supposed to be the ancient Bwlch Dau Fynydd, frequently mentioned as the scene of many a bloody battle.  Near this small Church we quit the Pwllheli road, and turn to the right towards Nevin; but before we leave this celebrated mountain, we shall take an opportunity of examining Tre’r Ceiri and Vortigern’s Valley; of both which we have a long, interesting, and circumstantial account in Pennant’s Tour.—It is very probable that the Districts of Lleyn and Eifionydd, served as a secure retreat to the Britons in ancient times, as most of the hills and eminences in both are strongly fortified, the names of some of which are subjoined: Carn Madryn p. 160and Carn Boduan,—Moel Garn Guwch,—The Rivals, Tre’r Ceiri,—Moel Ben Tyrch, between that and Penmorva,—Gaer Tyddyn Mawr,—Castell Gwgan, remarkable for a small circular entrenchment; and Pen y Gaer.—To these many others might be added, but we are reminded that neither our confined limits nor the nature of the work, will admit of very detailed or circumstantial descriptions of either these or any other ancient fortifications, we can therefore only touch on these subjects very superficially, and throw out a few hints as we proceed along.

Tre’r Ceiri.—Across a hollow, from one summit of the Rivals (Eifl) to the other, extends an immense rampart of stones, or perhaps the ruins of a wall, which effectually block up the pass; and near this place, on the summit of these hills, is a most perfect and regularly fortified British Post, called Tre’r Caerau, the Town of Fortresses, or perhaps Tre’r Ceiri, the Town of the Giants.  The most accessible side is defended by three walls; the lowest is very imperfect, the next tolerably entire, and has in it the grand entrance; this wall, in one part, points upwards towards the third, and runs round the edges of the top of the hill; the second wall unites with the first, which runs into a point, reverts and joins the highest, in a place where the hill becomes inaccessible: the facing on the two upper walls are very entire, especially that of the uppermost; they are p. 161lofty, and exhibit from below a grand and extensive front; the space on the top is an irregular area, part is steep and part flat, and is covered with heath, which affords shelter to a few red grouse;—the whole is almost filled with cells.—To be seen with advantage, the station should be taken from the summit, about which the cells (which are the foundations of the huts of the soldiers,) are very distinct, and disposed with much art: about the middle is a square place, fenced with stores, a sort of Prætorium, surrounded with two rows of cells; numbers are also scattered about the plain, and others again are contiguous to the wall, all along the inside.  The fortifications on Pen-maen-mawr bear a great similarity to the mode of defence adopted on this strong Post.  The cells are mostly perfect, of various forms, round, oval, oblong, and square; some of the round are fifteen feet in diameter, of the oblong, thirty feet in length, with long entrances, regularly faced with stone; all of them, when inhabited, were no doubt well protected from the weather, by roofs covered with thatch and sod.  The upper wall was in many places fifteen feet high on the outside, and often sixteen feet broad; it consisted of two parallel and contiguous parts, one higher than the other, serving as a parapet to the lower, which seemed to have its walk, like that at Chester; there was in one place a cell in the thickness of the wall, p. 162or perhaps a sally port, in part stopped by the falling in of the stones.  There is an excellent plan of this encampment in Mr. Pennant’s Tour.  We shall now descend from these elevated summits, in order to visit Nant Gwrtheyrn, or Vortigern’s Valley, where that Prince is said to have fled from the rage of his subjects, and where it was said he and his Castle were consumed with lightning.  His life had been profligate, the Monks therefore were determined that he should not die the common death of all men, and accordingly made him perish with signal marks of the vengeance of Heaven.  Fancy cannot frame a place more fit for a retreat from the knowledge of mankind, or more apt to inspire one with full hopes of security from any pursuit.—Embosomed in a lofty mountain, on two sides bounded by stony steeps, on which no vegetables appear, but the blasted heath and stunted gorse; the third side exhibits a most tremendous front of black precipice, with the loftiest peak of the mountain Eifl soaring above, and the only opening to this secluded spot is towards the sea, a northern aspect; the Glenn is tenanted by a few families, who raise oats, and keep a few cattle, sheep, and goats.  Just above the sea is a high and verdant mount, natural, but the top and sides fortified by art; on this might have been the residence of the unfortunate Prince, of which time has destroyed every other vestige.  Till the p. 163beginning of the last century, a tumulus of stone within, and externally covered with turf, was to be seen here; it was known by the name of Bedd Gwrtheyrn, tradition having regularly delivered down the report of this having been the place of his interment.  The inhabitants of the Parish dug into the Carn, and found in it a stone Coffin, containing the bones of a tall man.  This gives a degree of credibility to the tradition, especially as no other bones were found with it, no other tumuli on the spot; a proof at least of respect to the rank of the person; and that the place was deserted after the death of the Royal Fugitive, about the year 465.  Craig y Llam, near this place, is a tremendous lofty precipice, impending over the sea, and frequented in the summer season by numerous flocks of migratory birds, where their nests are ranged in regular tiers, on the ledges of this singular rock, in the same manner as at Gogarth, near Conway before-mentioned; underneath is a curious cave, accessible only by water, and visited in fine weather by different parties of pleasure, who bring their provisions along with them, and dine in the recesses of the Cliff.

From hence we descend again to the road, pass by Pistill, a little Chapel, annexed to Edern, and soon arrive at Nevin, a small Town, and Contributory Borough to Carnarvon; this place was bestowed on Nigel de Lohareyn, by the Black p. 164Prince, in the twelfth year of his Principality, and made a free borough, was allowed a Guild Mercatory with every privilege attendant on other free Boroughs, and all the liberties and Customs granted heretofore to that of Newborough, in Anglesey.  He also gave it a grant of two Fairs, annually, and a Market on a Sunday, to which the Inhabitants of the Commot of Dinlleyn, were obliged to resort.  Here Edward the First, in 1284, held his triumph on the conquest of Wales, and perhaps to conciliate the affections of his new subjects, in imitation of our Hero Arthur, held a round table, and celebrated it with dance and tournament,

Where throngs of Knights and Barons bold,
In weeds of Peace, high triumphs hold;
With store of Ladies, whose bright eyes
Reign influence, and judge the prize
Of wit or arms, while both contend
To win her grace whom all commend.

The concourse was prodigious, for not only the chief Nobility of England, but numbers from foreign parts graced the festival with their presence.  The Gauls, as we are informed, sat at their round tables, to destroy all dispute about precedence; and every Knight had at his back a Squire with his Armour, in waiting.  The Market is on Saturday, and the Fairs are holden on the fourth of April, Saturday before Whitsuntide, 25th of August, and 18th of September.  The Church is dedicated to St. Mary; it is a discharged Rectory and Vicarage, valued in the p. 165King’s Books at £2. 13s. 4d. and is in the patronage of Wynne Finch Griffith, Esq. of Cefn Amwlch.  Nevin is situated upon the Irish Channel, and has a small Pier, which is found to be very useful for the Herring Fishery, by which the Inhabitants principally subsist.  The Herrings, about the year 1771, were taken here is vast abundance, from Perth Ysgadan, or the Port of Herrings, to Bardsey Island, and all along this coast; the capture amounted usually to the value of about four thousand pounds.  These desultory fish, says Mr. Pennant, about the period above-mentioned, appeared in July and went away in October; in earlier times, they came in September and disappeared in November; Dories are also often taken here: the fishermen, till within these last 20 years, were wont to fling them away, on account of their ugly appearance, however they at last discovered that they were accounted a great luxury.  Crabs and Lobsters are also taken on this Coast, in great abundance, particularly about Bardsey, and are conveyed to the Liverpool Market.  After quitting the small poor town of Nevin, we soon arrive at Porth Dinlleyn, near which is a Dinas, or fortified eminence, which probably gave name not only to this excellent harbour, but also to the Commot in which it is situated.  An attempt was made some years ago, by W. A. Madocks, Esq. and some other gentlemen, to establish a p. 166regular communication between this place and Ireland, and for that purpose, a new road was made from hence to Tremadoc, and considerable sums of money were expended in erecting a breakwater or pier-head here, building a new Inn, &c. in hopes that Government would be prevailed upon to give this harbour the preference, and bring the Packets here from Holyhead, and consequently that the Mail Coaches would run this road; however, this plan, for some reasons not known to the writer, did not succeed.  From hence, Garn Madryn, and Garn Beduan Hills make a very conspicuous appearance, near the former of which is the seat of Parry Jones Parry, Esq. and not far from the latter is the Church and Parish of that name, and the neglected seat of the Wynne’s, ancestors of Lord Newborough.  We then pass through the small Village of Edeyrn or Edern; the living is a Rectory, in the gift of the Bishop, valued in the King’s Books at £8. 5s. the Church is dedicated to St. Edern.  The distance from hence to Tydweiliog, the next little village, is about three or four miles, this is a small perpetual Curacy, Church dedicated to St. Gwyfen, a female Saint, whose festival is on the 3d of June.  Not far distant from hence, on the left of the road, are two old Family Seats; the first is Brynodol, the property of J. Griffith, of Llanfair, Esq. here it seems Mr. Pennant was most hospitably p. 167entertained, by his friend the late Hugh Griffith, Esq. (father of the last-mentioned gentleman), when he made the Tour of this part of the County.  Brynodol, by advantage of situation on the side of a hill, commands a vast view of a flat woodless tract, the sea, and a noble mass of mountains: The Eifl hills, Garn Boduan, and the huge Garn Madryn rise in the fore-ground, and beyond these soars all Snowdonia, from those Alps which surround the Wyddfa, to the most remote in the County of Merioneth.  The other is Cefnamwlch, now the property of Wynne Finch Griffith, Esq. and many years ago the occasional residence of John Griffith, of Voelas, Esq. a gentleman whose family, as well as that of Brynnodol, claim descent from the Princes of Wales.  From Tudweiliog to Aberdaron the distance is about eight miles, over the Common of Rhôs Hirwen, and a flat uninteresting Country; during this latter part of the journey, the road passes within a short distance of several small Churches, such as Penllech and Llan Gwnadle on the right; and Meyllteyrn and Bryncroes on the left: near this extremity of the Promontory, are also the ruins of several little Chapels, such as Eglwys Fair, Capel Anelog, Capel Odo, Capel Bodferyn, Capel Cwm Dylif, &c. which proves that this part of the main land (as well as the Island of Bardsey) was the retreat of numerous recluses and devotees, in ancient times.—At Llan Gwnadl (alias Gwynhoydyl) p. 168is the following inscription: S. GWYNHOYDYL IACIT HIC 750: & HÆC ÆDES ÆDIFICATA &c.  On the sea coast are several small Creeks, useful to the fishermen, who find in them during the Herring fishery, a safe retreat from storms; the names of some of which we shall here introduce Porth Towyn, Porth Colman, Porth Gwylan, Porth Ysgadan, Porth Cadlan, (or Cadfan), Porth Llywennan, Porth Orion, Porth Iago, Porth Feryn, Porth Neudwy, (or Meudwy) Porth Samddai, &c.  At a place called Hen Fonwent, not far from the ruins of an old town, Tre Dindywydd, in the parish of Bryn croes, several earthen pots and urns were discovered some years ago, containing ashes and human bones; and near Ty Engion, an old stone altar was found, called Cerrig Inco, and another near Monachdy, in the same Parish; and a stone Coffin, (Cistfaen) on Ty mawr Farm, near the same place.  There are also several British encampments in this neighbourhood, viz. Castell Caeron, on Mynydd y Rhiw mountain; Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum; and two on Mynydd Cilan, in the parish of Llan Engan.  Several eminences bear the name of Pen yr Orsedd, i.e. the Throne, or Seat of Judicature, two of these are not far distant from Nevin; and near Cefnamwlch is a Cromlech, called Coetan Arthur.  The following wells may also be mentioned as remarkable, on account of their bearing the p. 169names of British Saints; viz. Ffynnon Saint, Ffynnon Ddurdan, Ffynnon Cefn Llaethfaen, Ffynnon Eliw, in the Parish of Rhiw; Ffynnon Garmon, in Aberdaron, and Ffynnon Lleuddad, in Bryncroes.

Aberdaron is a small fishing Village, situated on a sandy Bay, at the extremity of the Promontory of Lleyn (Langanum Promontorium); the mouth of the Bay is protected by two little Islands, called Ynys Gwylan; it takes its name from the rivulet Daron, which here empties itself into the sea; the inhabitants are mostly fishermen.  The Church, which consists of two aisles, supported by four handsome pillars, is dedicated to St. Hoywyn; it was a sanctuary, and much frequented by pilgrims; Leland says it was called Llan Engan Frenin, (Fanum Niniani Reguli), but it is very probable, that the transcribers of his work must have made a mistake, as Llan Engan is seven or eight miles distant, on the road to Pwllhely, and where there is a very curious inscription on the Steeple, copied and explained by Mr. Rowlands.  The Rectorial Tithes belong to St. John’s College, Cambridge; the Vicarage is in the patronage of the Bishop.  This and Porth Meudwy, (a small Creek near it) were the places where Devotees, in former times, usually embarked for Bardsey (Enlli), and the curious stranger, who may wish to visit that Island, can easily procure a boat here, but p. 170before he sets sail he should examine the ruins of St. Mary’s Chapel (Capel Fair), and also our Lady’s Cave and Well, (Ogof Mair a Ffynnon Fair,) the former is situated in a small plain, between two hills, Uwch Mynydd a Mynydd y Gwyddel, and the latter not far distant, nearly at the foot of a dreadful precipice called Maen Melyn, and from which, no doubt, this Commot (Cwmmwd-maen) takes its name.  There is a most hazardous and circuitous path, down to the Cave and Well, along which Devotees frequently descended in former days, and even at the present time many are induced to visit the spot from curiosity.  Maen Melyn is a yellow rock, streaked with white veins, in the middle of a black precipice, and at a distance has much the appearance of a large dog or leopard.  In the dark ages of Popish Superstition it was supposed that if a person could descend by this path, and bring up a mouthful of water from the well, his wish would be certainly fulfilled; the Cape, at the end of the Promontory is called Penyccil, and the ridge of hills Braich y pwll.  This Chapel was placed here, in all probability, to give the seamen an opportunity of invoking the tutelar Saint for protection through this dangerous Sound.

The Convent at Bardsey (Enlli) was one of the most ancient religious Institutions in North Wales, for Eineon Frenin, one of the Regnli of the County is said, in conjunction with Emyr p. 171Llydaw, to have founded a College in that Island, about the middle of the 9th Century, and Lleudad (Landatus) is generally supposed to have been the first Abbot.  Dufrig, (Dubritius) Archbishop of Caerleon, is represented in our Welsh Annals to have resigned in favour of St. David’s, and to have retired to Bardsey, where he died about the year 612, from which circumstance, it is evident that there must have been a religious establishment here prior to that period.  It seems likely to have been a seat of the Culdees, or Colidei, the first religious recluses of Great Britain, who sought Islands and desert places, in which they might in security worship the true God.  It was certainly resorted to in very early times, for we are assured, from undoubted authority, that it flourished as a Convent in the days of Cadvan, King of Britain, who was coeval with Dubritius, it was an Abbey, dedicated to St. Mary, and in the Sebright MSS. a petition is recorded, says Mr. Pennant, from the Abbot to Edward II. in which he sets forth the injuries he had received from the Sheriff of Carnarvon, who had extorted from him 68s. 6d. contrary to his Deed of ffeoffment, on which the King directed Roger de Mortimer, Justiciary of Wales, to make enquiry into the matter, who reported that the Abbot held his Lands, in the County of Carnarvon, in puram et perpetuam elemosynam, without any service or secular p. 172acknowledgment; and further, that David, Lord of Lleyn, and brother to the last Prince of Wales, had exacted the same sum, as did his Pencynydd, or Master of his Dogs, possibly under pretence of maintaining them; the King therefore, by his special favor, and by advice of his Council, does for ever remit the said sum and all arrears, and directs that no one in future, either on his account or that of his heirs, ever should molest the Convent.  The slaughter of the Monks, at Bangor Iscoed, about the year 607, is supposed to have contributed to the population of this Island, for not only the brethren who escaped, but numbers of other pious Britons fled hither, to avoid the rage of the Saxons.

There is a most curious, though superstitious document, still extant, written in Latin, in which it is asserted, that in consequence of the prayers of Holy Lleudad (Sanctus Laudatus) one of the first Abbots, and in consideration of the good and pious lives of the first Members of this Convent, the Almighty granted them the strange and uncommon privilege of departing out of this mortal life by seniority, so that like grapes in the vintage, (as it is there expressed) the most ripe (i.e. the eldest) was cut down first; and that this continued to be the case for many years, until these once Holy Brethren became again degenerated, and relapsed into various sins and vices, so that the Almighty was incensed against them, p. 173and summoned them hence, like the rest of mankind, without any respect to age or seniority.—This may serve as a specimen of the numerous tales and legends, invented by these and other idle and bigotted Monks.

This small Island, according to the Welsh History, afforded asylum, during life, to twenty thousand reputed Saints, and, after death, graves to as many of their bodies; well therefore might it be called Insula Sanctorum, Isle of Saints; but, with Dr. Fuller, it must be observed, that it would be much easier to find graves in Bardsey, for so many Saints, than Saints for so many graves.—Nine hundred of these Devotees are said to have fled hither from the Massacre of the Monks, at Bangor Iscoed, in Flintshire.

The following are the names of some of the first Abbots, and reputed Saints, who are said to have been buried there:

1.  Lleudad, (Laudatus) the first Abbot.

2.  Dufrig, (Dubricius) once Arch Bishop of Caerlleon ar Wysg, or Llandaf.

3.  St. David, who retired hither from the Synod of Brevi, (Llan Ddewi Brefi).

4.  Cadvan, who came to Wales from Llydaw, or Armorica, attended by the following persons: Padarn, Hywyn, Sulien, Tanwg, Tydecho, Tecwyn, and many others.

5.  Dewrdan, or Dwrdan, from whom Bodwrda, in this neighbourhood is supposed to have been so called, or from Cowrda, to whom Abererch Church is dedicated.

6.  Daniel, first Bishop of Bangor.

7.  Beuno, to whom Clynnog Fawr is dedicated.

8.  Myrddin ap Morfryn, (or Merlinus Caledonius or Sylvestris).

9.  Hywyn ap Gwnda Hên, Steward to Cadvan, and to the Saints at Bardsey.

p. 17410.  Dervel, to whom Llan Dderfel in Merionethshire is dedicated.

11.  Eineon, or Engan Frenin, King of Lleyn.

12.   Cawrdaf St. at Abererch.

13.  Cadwallawn ap Owen Gwynedd, Abbot in the year 1169.

14.  Thomas ap Griffith Nicholas, of Dinevor, in South Wales, who was killed in a Duel at Penal, in Merionethshire, was buried here.

15.  Griffith ap Thomas, nephew of Griffith ap Nicholas, was interred here.

16.  Hugh ap Richard ap Sion ap Madog, of Bodwrda, was buried here, in the time of Queen Elizabeth.—See William Lleyn’s Elegy on his Death.

This little Inland, at present contains about twelve or fifteen houses, and about sixty or seventy inhabitants, who are mostly fishermen.—It produces very good barley, and round its coast are great plenty of fish, and abundance of Lobsters, which are mostly sent (as before observed) to the Liverpool Market.

The revenues of the Monastery, at the general Dissolution, amounted, according to Dugdale, to £46. 1s. 4d.  Tradition says, that Aberdaron, Bryn-croes, and Nevin, originally belonged to Bardsey, but at present the Tythes of those three Parishes, are the property of the Cefn Amwlch Family; and it is very probable that one of their ancestors purchased them of the King (Henry VIII.) or his Ministers at that time.  This Island was granted by Edward VI. to his Uncle, Sir T. Seymour, and afterwards to John, Earl of Warwick; and the present proprietor’s father purchased it from Dr. Wilson of Newark.  A tenement, called Court, in the Parish of Aberdaron, p. 175originally belonged to Bardsey, and was granted and purchased with the Inland, as before described.  Part of Lleyn is to this day, called the Lordship or Manor of Bardsey, and a kind of Leet Court is still held, occasionally, either at Aberdaron, Bryncroes or Tydweiliog, which is called the Court of the Lord of the Manor of Bardsey.  The present Lord of the Manor is the Marquis of Anglesey; there are also a Recorder, Bailiff and Constable, attached to this Lordship.  The Court was probably held, formerly, at the above-mentioned Farm, which still bears the name of Court; and not far off is another place, called Secar (Exchequer), and it seems there was a prison or gaol there, for near it is a hill, called Brynn y Grogbren, or Gallows Hill.—In general, when any of the Inhabitants die, they are brought to Aberdaron for interment; but in very stormy weather, the corpse is buried in the old Abbey Church yard, and the person who is best qualified reads the funeral service.  Many years ago, when some of the Inhabitants had been to a Mill at Aberdaron, a great tempest arose on their return, and they were blown to the Coast of Cardiganshire, and landed in safety.  A Light House is very much wanted on this Island, as, for want of such an object to direct them, Vessels are driven on Sarn Badrig-Goffrydiau-Caswennan, and other dangerous rocks, and many lives lost every year.  We are happy to add, that such p. 176a building is at present in contemplation.  There are several Welsh Poems still extant, addressed to some of the Abbots.—Not far from hence is Carreg, the seat of Robert Thomas Carreg, Esq. now resident at Cefn mine.

The distance from Aberdaron to Pwllheli is about twenty miles; the road along the sea coast by Llanfaelrhys, Rhiw, Llandegwnning, Llan Engan, and Llanbedrog, is the most interesting.—On a part of the Promontory, called Penrhyn Du, in former years, have been considerable adventurers for Lead Ore, and attempts to drain the mines, by means of a fire Engine, but the expences proved to exceed the profits.—The dangerous Bay, between Rhiw Mountain (Mynydd y Rhiw) and Penrhyn Du, is called by the Sailors Hell’s Mouth, being considered the Scylla to the Charybdis of Sarn Badrig, whose extremity lies nearly opposite; and if the mariners can pass between these two, there is a very secure anchorage for ships of large burthen, at a place called the St. Tudwal Roads, near the two Islands of that name, on the largest of which are the remains of a small Chapel, dedicated to that reputed Saint.—At Abersoch, near this place, is also a small but safe harbour, where barley and other articles, the produce of this part of the County, are exported, and coals, &c. imported.  At Gelliwig, which was (for we greatly regret to hear that he is lately dead) the residence of p. 177Colonel Evan Jones, a gentleman who, as a brave and enterprizing officer, distinguished himself in several campaigns, particularly in Egypt, under Sir Ralph Abercrombie; the writer cannot refrain from paying this tribute to departed worth, for he was certainly an honor to his country, and greatly beloved by all who knew him.  And at Nanhoron, in this neighbourhood, is the elegant and hospitable seat of Colonel Edwards, one of the few gentlemen who constantly reside in the country, and give regular employment to a number of poor labourers, and set a good example to their tenantry in Agricultural improvements.  The following inscription was transcribed from a Monument, erected to the memory of his brave father, Captain Edwards, in the Parish Church of Llan Gian:

“Sacred to the memory of Timothy Edwards, Esq. of Nanhoron, who, being appointed to the command of the Cornwall Man of War, of 74 Guns, in the year 1777, and having, in the course of a twelve-month, distinguished himself in four successive engagements, in the West Indies, against the French Fleet, was unfortunately, on his return home, carried off by a bilious fever, on the 12th of July, 1780, aged 49, before he had received those honors from his King and Country, which were destined to be the reward of his gallant and faithful services.—His disconsolate widow, penetrated with the p. 178deepest regret, for her irreparable loss, caused this Monument to be erected.

“In cœlo quies.”

Llyn, or Lleyn, is a very extensive Hundred, in general flat, but interspersed with most characteristic hills or rocks, rising insulated in several parts; none makes so conspicuous a figure as Carn Madryn, Carn Boduan, and Mynydd Mynytho, (Mann-noeth-wy); the country, of late years, is greatly improved, owing to the laudable example of the resident gentlemen.  The chief produce is oats, barley, pigs, and black cattle; it is supposed that above three thousand of the latter are annually sold out of these parts; much oats, barley, butter and cheese, are exported.—The land is good, particularly for grazing, being watered by a thousand rills; it is in general destitute of trees, except near gentlemen’s seats,—the example of planting, set by men of property, is however rapidly spreading; and by an Act, passed some years ago, many of the commons and waste lands have been enclosed, and brought into a state of cultivation.  Giraldus Cambrensis, in his Itinerarium Cambriæ, says, that the Cantreds of Lleyn and Eifionydd were the possessions of Owen Gwynedd’s children, when he passed through Wales, and that they had two Castles, one at Carn Madryn, and the other at Penrhyn Deudraeth.  Castellmarch, in this neighbourhood, is an old family seat, now p. 179the property of Thomas Asheton Smith, Esq. of Vaenol.  Margaret Griffith, heiress of Plas mawr, in Carnarvon, and Trefarthen, in Anglesey, married Griffith Jones, of Castellmarch, in Llyn, Esq. and her daughter Margaret Jones, heiress of Castellmarch, married Sir William Williams, of Vaenol, Baronet.  Not far from the road is Wern fawr, now in ruins, the property of Parry Jones Parry, Esq. of Madryn.  Near Llanbedrog is the Cottage, the residence of Lloyd Caldecot, Esq. and before we enter Pwllheli, is Bodegroes, the hospitable seat of Glynn Griffith, Esq. and not far distant is Bodvel, [179] an old house, which had the honor of giving birth to the celebrated Mrs. Piotzi.

Pwllheli is the principal Town in this part of the County, and the Magazine of Goods which supplies all this tract; it lies near the sea shore, and has a tolerable harbour for vessels of about 60 tons: Leland styles it “statio optima Carinis.”  The entrance is by a high rock, called Carreg y Wimbill, (the Gimlet,) which is near a mile from land, to which it is joined by a range of sand hills.  This place, as well as Nevin, was made a free Borough, by the Black Prince, by Charter, dated the 12th year of his Principality, at Carnarvon, p. 180in compliment to Nigel [180] de Loryng, or Lohareyn, one of the gentlemen of his bedchamber, on whom he had bestowed, Nevin and Pwllhely, in consideration of his great service in Gascony, and particularly at the Battle of Poitiers.  He entitles him to “servitiis quorumcunque tenentium tam liberorum quam nativorum,” by which it may be presumed, that he did not include the Welsh in the privileges; what those were we do not learn, but they were the same which the Burgesses of Rosfair, in Anglesey enjoyed, and for them Pwllheli was to pay to Nigel fourteen pounds a year, and Nevin thirty-two.  This Borough and Nevin, he freely bestowed on him, with all its appurtenances, together with four librates of Land, towards the repairs of his Manors, and for all these he was only to pay an acknowledgment of a rose, in lieu of all services; if he died without issue the whole was to revert to the crown.  Edward III. afterwards confirmed these grants to Sandwich.  Denio, the Parish Church, (or rather a Chapel to the Vicarage of Llannor) stands on a hill about half a mile out of the Town; it is dedicated to St. Beuno.  The Markets are on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and the Fairs on the 5th of March, 13th of May, 28th of June, 19th of August, 24th of September, and 11th of November.  Pwllheli p. 181is a safe and good harbour, as we before observed, and well sheltered from all winds, but a Perch is much wanted at the extreme end of the Gimlet Rock.  This is one of the Contributory Boroughs with Carnarvon, in returning one Member to Parliament; it is a Corporate Town, and is governed by a Mayor, two Bailiffs, and a Recorder.  The Petty Sessions for the District are held here.  An Embankment has been made within these few years, on both sides of the Town, by which several hundred acres have been recovered, the greatest part of which used to be overflowed by the high tides.  Pwllheli has as excellent beach for Sea bathing, and is likely to become a place of resort in the Summer season, for that purpose.  The number of inhabitants in 1811, was nearly thirteen hundred.  The Prince (says Leland) had a place here, as yet appeareth.

The distance from Pwllheli to Tremadoc is about 15 miles; the first village on the road is Abererch, situated on the river Erch, and partly in the Cwmwd (Commot) of Dinlleyn, Cantref of Lleyn, and partly in the Cwmwd of Eifionydd, Cantref of Dunodig.  The Church is dedicated to Saint Cawrdaf; it is a discharged Vicarage, valued in the King’s Books at £6.  Patron, the Bishop of Bangor.  The number of inhabitants, in 1811, was about 1100.  In this Church was buried Sir Thomas Pulesten, a distinguished favorite of Edward 1st. who was killed in 1282.—p. 182The next Parish is Llanarmon, the Church is dedicated to St. Garmon.  At Plas Du in this Parish, was born that celebrated Epigrammatist, John Owen; this place gave birth also to the Rev. John Evans, S. Th. P. Bishop of Bangor, in 1715, and afterwards of Meath, in Ireland.—On the road to Carnarvon is Trallwyn, the seat of J. E. Lloyd, Esq. and not far distant, Glasfryn, Rev. Thomas Ellis; as we proceed, pass, on the left, Hendre, Rev. Thomas Roberts, and pretty near it Werglodd fawr, R. Jones, Esq.  After passing the junction of the Pwllheli and Nevin Roads, soon reach Llanystumdwy, a Church and Village, situated near a river, in a well-sheltered little Vale, beautifully wooded; the Church is dedicated to St. John the Baptist.—Near this place are a great number of gentlemen’s seats: Plas Hen, now the property of Sir Thomas Mostyn, Bart. once the seat of Evan Lloyd Vaughan, Esq. by marriage with an heiress of the name of Vaughan, a descendant of Collwyn ap Tangno; she afterwards married William Lloyd, a younger son of Bod-Idris: this William Lloyd was Sheriff in 1648, and was killed in a skirmish near Bangor, by Sir John Owen.  Near it is Gwynfryn, late the property of David Ellis Nanney, Esq. Attorney-General on this Circuit, now the residence of his nephew, O. J. E. Nanney, Esq.; a little nearer Crickaeth, to the left of the road, is Trefan, late the property of Rev. p. 183Z. Hughes, now the seat of Mrs. Priestley.—To these may be added Sgubor Hen, Aberkin, Ty Newydd, Rev. J. Kyffin; Mynydd Ednyfed, Rev. Mr. Jones, Rector of Crickaeth; and Brynhir, now unoccupied.  In this neighbourhood are the ruins of a small Chanel, called Bettws; and not far distant is Chwilog, an old House, which formerly belonged to the ancestors of Sir Howell y Fwyall, our celebrated Countryman, who attended the Black Prince to the Battle of Poitiers, and, according to our Welsh Bards, was the person who took the French King prisoner, though that honor is generally bestowed on Denis de Morebeque, a Knight of Artois.—Our brave countryman, however, undoubtedly behaved on the occasion with distinguished valour, for the Black Prince not only bestowed on him the Constableship of Crickaeth Castle, which he afterwards made his residence, but Knighted him, and in perpetual memorial of his good services, ordered, that from thenceforth, a mess of meat should be served up before the pole-axe, with which he performed such great feats; for that reason he bore it in his Coat of Arms, and was styled (as before-mentioned) Syr Howel y Fwyall, or of the Axe.  After the Mess had appeared before the Knight, it was carried down and bestowed on the poor; Eight Yeomen attendants were constituted to guard the Mess, and had eight-pence a day, constant wages, at the p. 184King’s charge; and these, under the name of Yeomen of the Crown, were continued on the establishment till the Reign of Queen Elizabeth, and it is supposed by many that the Yeomen of the Crown are indebted to these for their origin.  After the death of Sir Howel, the Mess was carried as before, and bestowed on the poor, for the sake of his soul, in the time of Popery, and probably as low as the period above-mentioned.—Sir John Wynne, in his History of the Gwydir family; informs us that this Sir Howel was also Constable of Chester Castle, and had also Dwyfor, and others, the King’s Mills, to farm, and a grant of the Weirs and Fisheries on this Coast, besides many other offices of great trust and profit.

Crickaeth Cattle is situated on conical rock, jutting far into the sea, and the Isthmus crossed, by way of defence, by two deep ditches; on each side of the entrance is a great round Tower; the Court is of an irregular form, and has the remains of a square Tower, beyond is another Court, and in it, on the verge of the rock, are two others, also square.  It is probable that all the Towers were originally square, for the insides of the two round Towers are of that form; they have so much the appearance of the Architecture of Dolyddelen Castle, that it is probable this Castle was founded by a Welsh Prince, and that Edward the First did no more than case the p. 185Towers, which at present are the two rounders; after the conquest, Edward appointed William de Leybourne to be Constable, with a Salary of One Hundred Pounds a year, for which he was to maintain a garrison of 30 men, one Chaplain, one Surgeon, one Carpenter, and one Mason.

On our way to Penmorva and Tremadoc, pass by Stumllyn, formerly the seat of the Wynnes, now the property of — Jones, Esq. of Machynlleth.  Several Antiquities are scattered over this part of the County; near Dolbenmaen, is a large Mount, on which might have been, as Mr. Rowlands conjectures, a Watch Tower.  Near Ystum Cegid are three Cromlechs, joining to each other, possibly memorials of three Chieftains slain on the spot.  And near Clenenney, on Bwlch Craig Wenn, is a fine Druidical Circle, consisting, at present, of thirty-eight stones; at a mile’s distance and within sight of this, above Penmorva, is another.  On Llysdin Farm, were lately discovered, some small Urns, containing human bones and ashes.  Not far distant from hence, in the Parish of Llanfihangel y Pennant, is Brynkir, once the seat of a family of that name, now the property of J. Huddart, Esq. at present Sheriff for this County; Lord Lyttleton, whose Letters from Wales are well known, and were published at the end of Bingley’s first Tour, remained here for several days, on a visit to one of the Brynkirs, and during his stay ascended Moel Hedog, which divides this Country from the Vale of Bethgelert.  p. 186The present proprietor has built a new house here, and made other great improvements.

In remote days, this part of Eifionydd was possessed by two Clans, one descended from Owen Gwywedd, Prince of North Wales, and consisted of the houses of Cessail Gyfarch, Ystum Cegid Clenenney, Brynker and Glasfryn, or Cwmystrallyn; the other was derived from Collwyn ap Tangno, and consisted of the houses of Chwilog, Bron y Foel, Berkin, Gwynfryn, Tal Hen bont, (now Plas Hen) and Pennardd.—The feuds of these two parties filled the land with blood.  The history of our Country, during that period, is the History of revenge, perfidy, and slaughter.  This consideration induced Meredith ap Jevan, ancestor of the Wynne’s of Gwydir, to quit this his paternal country—“I had rather,” says he, “fight with out-laws and thieves, than with my own blood and kindred;—If I live in my own house, in Efionydd, I must either kill my own kindred, or be killed by them.”  There was not a house in the hundred, as Mr. Pennant observes, that had not its dreadful tale,—they would quarrel, says Sir John Wynne, if it was but for the mastery of the country, and the first good morrow; John Owen ap John ap Meredydd, and Howel ap Madoc Vychan fell out for no other reason: Howel and his people fought valiantly,—when he fell, his mother placed her hand on his head, to prevent the fatal blow, and had half her hand and three of her fingers cut p. 187off by some of her nearest kindred.  An attempt was made to kill Howel ap Rhys, in his own house, by the sons of John ap Meredith, for no other reason but that their servants had quarrelled about a Fishery; they first set fire to the Mansion, with great bundles of straw,—the besieged, terrified with the flames, sheltered themselves under forms and benches, while Rhys, the old Hero, stood, sword in hand, reproaching his men with cowardice, and telling them he had often seen a greater smoke in that Hall on Christmas-even.  These flagitious deeds seldom met with any other punishment than what resulted from private revenge, and too often composition was made for the most horrible murders.  There was a gwerth, or price of blood, from the slaughter of a King, to the cutting off one of his subject’s little fingers.

The Village of Penmorva is situated in a nook, between some high rocks, at the end of a tract of meadows, formerly subject to the over-flowing of the higher tides, till an embankment was made by W. A. Madocks, Esq. a gentleman to whom this part of the County is greatly indebted for numerous and great improvements, particularly for the erection of an embankment, about a mile in length, in order to reclaim some thousand acres of land, and which now forms a safe and convenient road between the Counties of Carnarvon and Merionneth, across the Estuary of Traethmawr, whereas formerly many lives were lost in p. 188going over these dangerous sands.  In the Church of Penmorva, which is dedicated to St. Beuno, was interred that valiant Knight, Sir John Owen, besides the monument to his memory, there is another to Sir William Morris, of Clenenney, who died August 11, 1622.  Tremadoc, a new Town, which bears the name of its Founder, is about a mile distant from Penmorva, and contains from Eighty to a Hundred Houses.—Here is a handsome new Church, a Market-Place, a comfortable Inn, and a great number of good Shops: near the Town are also several good Houses built by the same Gentleman, particularly Tan yr Allt, Morva Lodge, &c.; all of which, as well as every thing in and about this small Town, evidently prove the individual who planned and conducted the whole, to be a person of cultivated mind, improved taste, and superior judgment and ability.—A Market has been established here, and the Fairs which used to be at Penmorva on the following days, March 6, May 14, August 20, September 25, and November 12, have mostly deserted that place, and are held at Tremadoc.—Here is an excellent Salmon Fishery—a good shore for Bathing—and a safe Harbour for Vessels under 120 Tons burthen.  It is greatly to be lamented, that the beneficial improvements projected by the before-mentioned public spirited Gentleman W. A. Madocks, Esq. and carried by him to such a state of forwardness; should not be completed.  p. 189In the Year 1625, Sir John Wynne, of Gwydir, conceived the great design of gaining this immense track, (Traeth mawr) as well as the lesser one, (Traeth bach) from the Sea, by means of an Embankment; and for that purpose he implored the assistance of his illustrious Countryman Sir Hugh Middleton, in a Letter which has been preserved, and together with that Gentleman’s reply, printed in Mr. Pennant’s Tour.  A Bridge over Traeth bach, and a new line of Road along the Sea Coast to Barmouth, and a Stage Coach, or some other more regular mode of conveyance between North and South Wales, particularly during the Summer Months, are still left among the desiderata of this portion of the Principality.

Ancient Divisions of the County.

p. iAPPENDIX.

A
CATALOGUE
OF THE
RECTORIES, VICARAGES, AND CHAPELS,
IN THE
County of Caernarvon;
WITH THEIR
DEDICATIONS, SAINT DAYS, AND PATRONS.

About the year 525, Daniel ap Dunawd, Abbot of Bangor Is Coed, in Flintshire, built a College in Caernarvonshire, for the instruction of youth and support of the Clergy of this part of North Wales; and probably designed it as a Cell, or member of the other Bangor, and continued so till Prince Maelgwn, or Maelgwyn Gwynedd, a wicked Prince in his youth, but reformed in his advanced age, among other works of Piety, created this College into a Bishoprick, and Archbishop Dubricius, or Dyfrig, consecrated the said Daniel Bishop thereof, about the year 550; and about four years after, he died, December 10, and was buried at Bardsey, or Enlli.  There is but a very slender account of Daniel’s successors till after the Conquest; from which time there seems to be a regular succession of Prelates in this See, though by reason of the wars, they had not all of them a quiet enjoyment.  The Revenues of this Bishoprick were valued 25th Henry VIII. at £151 3s. 8d.; the clear value £134 16s. 4d.  The next account is, that according to Bede, there was a Bishop here, St. Awstin the Monk, who is called Ellodu, Anno Dom. 601.  However, Elbodius was certainly Bishop of North Wales, and died, as some say, A.D. 806, others 811.  There is no account who succeeded p. iiihim.  Gildas Cambrensis dedicated his Book to a Bishop of Venetia; he flourished A.D. 860.  Mordaf is mentioned by Wynne to have gone to Rome about the year 940; about the confirmation of Howel Dda’s Laws.

Hervey, surnamed Cruste, was consecrated Bishop of Bangor, between the years 1089 and 1093, by Thomas, Archbishop of York; and so continued for 15 or 16 years; but using too great severity, he was very ill liked by the Welsh, who at last murdered his Brother, and threatened to do the same with him, whereupon he retired into England, to Henry I. for protection, who assigned him the Abbey of Ely, which he got converted into a Bishoprick, and quitted Bangor A.D. 1109, and died at Ely 1131, where he was buried.

Urban, bishop of Landaff, governed this see, and took the care thereof upon him, probably till 1119, when he began to be fully occupied in looking after his charge in Landaff, and rebuilding his church.

David, a Scot, was consecrated April 4, 1120, in which year he consented to the translation of the reliques of St. Dubricius to Landaff, out of his own Diocese, at the request of Bishop Urban; he is mentioned 1127, and his successor was

Meuruc, or Maurice, consecrated A.D. 1139: he was presented to the Archdeaconry by Bishop David, and at first refused taking the oath to the King of England, though afterwards he was with some difficulty persuaded to it; he died A.D. 1161, and was succeeded by

William Priors, of St. Austin’s, Bristol, A.D. 1162, a very religious and pious man; who was succeeded by

Guy Rufus, Monk of Walham, in the County of Essex, who was consecrated at Ambrosebury, in July 1177; in the year 1188, he accompanied Baldwyn, Archbishop of Canterbury, in his progress through Wales, and died about two years after, 1190: he was succeeded by

Giraldus Cambrensis, who was elected to the See in 1190, but he refused to accept of it then; so it continued vacant till the election of

Alban, or Albanus, Prior of St. John’s, Jerusalem, consecrated April 16, 1195: he died the year following, and was succeeded by

Robert, of Shrewsbury, who was consecrated the 18th of March.  He died in 1213, and was buried by his own appointment in the Market-place at Shrewsbury; after his death the See became vacant for two years, when

Martin, Abbot of Albaland, was consecrated June 16, 1215; he sat but a little time, for in the same year we find

p. ivCadwgan, who, as Brown Willis says, is the same with Martin, the one being the name he was known by in England, and the other his original Welsh name; Godwin, says he was Abbot of Llandefid, and being released from his Episcopal charge A.D. 1236, he retired to the Abbey of Dover, in the County of Hereford, and became a Monk, giving the Convent all his goods: he died in 1241, on the 11th of April, and was buried there.

Howel’s Cong’ d‘Elire, is dated June 7, 1236: he dedicated a Monastry built by Llywelyn Prince of Wales, at Llanfaes, in Anglesey; over the grave of Joan his wife, daughter of John, King of England, whose pleasure it was to be buried there.

Richard succeeded, and was consecrated A.D. 1240, or rather 1238 or 1237; because in his Letter to the Pope to resign his Bishoprick, which was about 1268, he pleads his having been Bishop 30 years and upwards.

Anian, Archdeacon of Anglesey, succeeded Richard, and had the Temporalities restored Dec. 12, 1268.  He is reported to have held a synod 1291, at St. Mary’s, de Garth Brannan, the ancient Parish Church of Bangor: he also christened Edward II. in Caernarvon Castle, April 25, 1284.

Cadwgan succeeded Asian in 1306; he enjoyed it but a short time, for we meet with the consecration of

Griffith ap Iorwerth, on March 26, 1307, on whose death, which happened 1309

Anian Sais, was elected Bishop Sep. 18, 1309, and consecrated Nov. 9th following; he died Jan. 20, 1327.

Matthew de Englefield, Son of Iorwerth ap Ririd, Archdeacon of Anglesey, aged 40, succeeded, being elected Feb. 25, 1327, confirmed April 25, and consecrated June 12, 1328: he granted Bangor a Charter to keep a Fair on St. Luke’s Day: he died April 25, 1357.

Thomas de Ringstead, S. S. T. P. of Oxford, a Dominican, succeeded, being nominated by the Pope, consecrated Aug. 27, received the Spiritualities Nov. 1357; he died at the Grey Friers in Shrewsbury, and was buried at Huntingdon, he is said to have given £100 for the repairs of this Cathedral.

Gervase de Castro, (probably the same with Gervase Fitz David, who occurs Archdeacon A.D. 1351) Canon of Bangor, a Dominican, succeeded Dec. 11, 1366; received the Spiritualities Feb. 17th following, and died Sep. 1370.

Howel ap Grono, Dean of this Church, seems to have succeeded April 16, 1371; he received the Spiritualities July 31, 1371, and going to settle matters to Rome, he died there, as Brown Willis says, in Curia Romana.

p. vJohn Gilbert, a Friar preacher, succeeded March 17, 1371, received the Spiritualities July 16, 1372; and the 16th of November following made his profession of obedience to the See of Canterbury Sep. 12, 1375; he was translated to Hereford, and afterward to St. David’s; he died in London, July 28, 1397.

John Swafham, S. Th. P. of Cambridge, a Carmelite of Lynn, in the County of Norfolk, Bishop of Cloyne in Ireland, A.D. 1363, was translated to this See July 2, 1376.  There was a Charter granted him in 1387, about appropriating Llan Ynys, and Llan Fair, to the repair of the Church, and support of four Chaplains, to officiate in the Choir: he continued Bishop till 1394, and so no doubt till the election of

Richard Young, L.L.D. Oct. 21, 1399, or May 20, 1400, who had the Temporalities restored in 1404.  He was translated to Rochester, where he died.

Benedict Nicholas, called also Nicholas Bennett, Rector of Stapleland, in the County of Wilts, and of Conyngton, in the County of Huntington, which he resigned A.D. 1417, he received the Temporalities July 22, at the request of Arundel, Archbishop of Canterbury, and the Spiritualities, Aug. 10th following: he was afterwards removed to St. David’s, Dec. 15, 1417, whereby room was made for

William Barrow, L.L.D. Chancellor of Oxford 1414 and 1415; Canon of Lincoln, nominated by the Pope, Feb. 16, 1418; made his profession of obedience April 16, 1418; and received the temporalities June the 5th following; about June 1423, he was translated to Carlisle, and succeeded by

John Clederow, who received the temporalities Jan. 15, 1424, and March 30th he made profession of obedience.  His Will bears date March 30, 1434; he died Dec. 12, 1435, and was buried at Crayford.

Thomas Cheryton, of the order of Friars Preachers, obtained Licence of consecration Nov. 26, 1436, and died about Dec. 1448, when he was succeeded by

John Stanbery, the most learned Carmelite of his time, nominated by the Pope March 4, 1448; he had before been appointed to Norwich, but the Duke of Suffolk obtained it for his chaplain, he was of the University of Oxford, and greatly in favour with Henry VI. and was appointed by him Provost of his College of Eaton; and also translated to Hereford 1452; he left in his will dated Feb. 25, 1472, a legacy of £30, to repair the Church of Bangor, that was burnt in the troubles of Owen Glyndwr: he died at Hereford, and was succeeded by

James Blackdon, Bishop of Achad or Achonry in Ireland, p. viand also suffragan to Bishop Beckington, Wells, which he resigned on his translation to Bangor, the Temporalities whereof were restored to him March 26, 1452.  The Bull of his translation is dated Feb. 7, 1452; he was also Master of St. Catherine’s Hospital: he died Oct. 24, 1464, and was succeeded by

Richard Evynden, S. T. P. Dean of Stoke Clare, in Suffolk, of the order of Friars Minors; who obtained licence of consecration March 18, 1464.  In 1468 he represented to the Pope that this Bishoprick was not worth £100 per annum, and so obtained leave to hold other preferments in commendam, by the Pope’s Diploma, granting that whoever had this See should hold some other commendam; as the headship of some Abbey, &c.  He died 1496, and was succeeded by

Henry Dean, or Dennys, an Oxford man, Prior of Lanthony, near Gloucester, who had the Temporalities restored as appears by the patent, Oct. 6. 1496.  He was a very eminent man, and a great benefactor to the church; he was Chancellor of Ireland and Lord chief Justice 1495, in which office he acted with so much diligence, that the pretended Duke of York was expelled by his means out of the kingdom.  He began to re-build this Church and Palace, which had lain in ruins for near one hundred years; but before he had completed the choir, he was in March 22, 1500 translated to Salisbury.

Thomas Pigott, born in Denbighshire, Abbot of Chertsey, and L.L.B. of the University of Oxford, succeeded him; some of his leases to Bangor, are dated at Chertsey, where in all probability he died Aug. 15. 1504.

John Perry, L.L.D. Abbot of Leicester and Prior of Bradley, succeeded Aug. 30, 1505.  He held his Abbacy, in commendam until he became translated to Carlisle, he was buried at St. Margaret’s in Leicester.

Thomas Pace, alias Skevington or Sheffington, who was born at Skevington in Leicestershire, succeeded March 7, 1508.  He was brought up at Merisale, Warwick, where he first became a professed Monk, and went from thence for further instruction to Bernard, (now St. John’s) College, Oxford; he afterwards became Abbot of Waverley and Beauley, in the County of Northampton; which last he held in commendam with this See, till his death, and resided mostly there and at London; yet notwithstanding this, he became a very generous benefactor, by rebuilding the Episcopal Palace, on the porch of which is this inscription still remaining over the door; “Thomas Skevington, Epis. Bangor fecit.” and also the Cathedral Church, as we have noticed p. viiin another place, he died about the year 1533, and was succeeded by

John Salcot, alias Capon, S. T. P. of the University of Cambridge, Abbot of Holm, in the County of Norfolk, and afterwards of Hyde, in the County of Southampton; a very forward person in soliciting King Henry VIII’s divorce; by virtue of which he became elected Bishop of this See, Jan. 30, and was consecrated April 19, 1534.  He was afterwards translated to Salisbury, where he died.

Joh Bird, S. T. P. of Oxford, provincial of the order of Carmelites’ Convent at Coventry, and Bishop of Penruth, was elected July 24, 1539, had the royal assent Sep. 1, confirmed Sep. 18, and had the temporalities restored Sep. 19th following.  In 1535 he waited on Bishop Bonner, at Fulham, and brought him a dish of apples and a bottle of wine, and was presented by Bonner to Dunmow living, for a maintenance.  In Aug. 1541, be was made the first Bishop of Chester, on the new erection of that See, by King Henry VIII. and was succeeded as Bishop of Bangor by

Arthur Bulkeley, L.L.D. educated at New Inn Hall, Oxford, who was confirmed Dec. 20. 1541, and consecrated Feb. 1541–2; his first preferment was the Rectory of Llan Ddeusant, in the county of Anglesey, to which he was instituted Aug. 18, 1525, and soon after was made canon of St. Asaph; on Aug. 8, 1537, he was made prebend of Clynnog Fechan; and July 15, 1538, admitted Rector of St. James’s, Garlick-hithe, in London, at the presentation of the convent of Westminster, which he quitted Nov. 8, 1544.  He died March 14, 1552, and was buried in his own cathedral, in the place where Bishop Skevington’s heart was deposited; after his death the See continued vacant till the consecration of

William Glynn, born at a place called Glynn, in the commot of Malltraeth, and parish of Hen Eglwys, Anglesey; he was master of Queen Ann’s college Cambridge.  In 1549 he was presented to St. Martins Le Grand, in London, and made Rector of Hen Eglwys Feb. 3, 1551, and consecrated Bishop of Bangor Sep. 8, 1555.  He died May 21, 1558, and was buried in the Choir of his own cathedral, in the 54th year of his age.

Maurice Clennock, L.L.B. a native of Caernarvonshire, Prebendary of York, was nominated to succeed, by Queen Mary, but he died before his consecration was completed.  The Bishoprick was next conferred on

Rowland Meyrick, L.L.D. chancellor of St. David’s, and sometime of Wells, and Principal of New Inn Hall, Oxford, born at Bodorgan, in the Parish of Llancadwaladr, Anglesey, p. viiiwho was elected Bishop Dec. 1, 1559.  He was at first Rector of Stoke, by Neyland, in the county of Norfolk, and was Precentor of Llan Ddewi Brefi, in the year 1549.  He died Sep. 25, 1565, and was buried in his own cathedral, on the south side of the communion table, under the east wall, with an inscription now lost.

Nicholas Robinson, S. Th. P. born at Conway in the county of Carnarvon; Fellow of Queen’s college Cambridge, and chaplain to Archbishop Parker, on March 3, 1556, he was made Dean of Bangor, and in 1562 Archdeacon of Merioneth and Rector of Northop; confirmed Bishop Oct. 6, 1566, with leave to hold the Rectory of Whitney, in the county of Oxford, in commendam.  He died Feb. 3, 1584–5, and was buried in his own cathedral, with an inscription on a slate which is effaced, with the exception of these words, “Hic Jacet Nicholas Robinson,” and his successor was

Hugh Bellot. S. T. P. fellow of St. John’s college Cambridge, Vicar of Gresford, and as supposed of Wrexham; elected Bishop Dec. 3, 1585, confirmed Jan. 25th; he was translated to Chester 1595, where he died, after he had sat a few months, and was buried at Wrexham, aged 54 years.

Richard Vaughan, born at Nyffryn, in Lleyn, Carnarvonshire, educated at St. John’s college Cambridge; Archdeacon of Middlesex and Canon of Wells; elected Bishop Nov. 22, had the Temporalities restored March 5, 1595–6: on the 23rd of April 1597, he was translated to Chester, and thence to London, where he died, and lies buried.

Henry Rowlands, S. T. P. of New college Oxford, born at Plas Myllteyrn, in the Parish of Meyllteyrne, Carnarvonshire, of which he became Rector in 1572, afterwards of Naunton in Oxfordshire in 1581, he was made Rector of Aberdaron in Lleyn, 1584 Prebendary of Penmynydd, Anglesey, and Dean of Bangor in 1593.  His Conge d‘Elire is dated Aug. 22.  During his time, he became a most munificent benefactor to his cathedral, by purchasing four (or according to Goodwin five) bells, and also by new roofing the cathedral; he also founded two fellowships at Jesus college, Oxford; an hospital for six poor men at Bangor, and a Tree school at Bottwnog, being a chapel belonging to Myllteyrn.  He died July 6, 1616, and was buried in his own cathedral.

Lewis Bayly, S. T. P. born in Caernarvonshire, chaplain to Prince Henry, and Rector of St. Matthew, Friday Street, London; elected Bishop Aug. 28, 1616.  He was a married man, and left behind him four sons, some say he was the author of the “Practice of Piety.”  He died Oct. 3, 1631, p. ixand was buried in his own cathedral, in Bishop Meyrick’s grave, he was succeeded by

David Dolben, S. T. P. born at Segrwd near Denbigh Prebend of Vaenol in the church of St. Asaph, which he held in commendam with his Bishoprick, to which he was elected Nov. 8, 1631.  He was a great benefactor to this See, and was descended from an ancient family in Denbighshire.  He died unmarried, Nov. 27, 1633, at the palace belonging to his See, in St. Andrews, Holborn, London, and was buried in the church of Hackney, aged 52.

Edmund Griffith, S. T. P. born at Cefn Amwlch, Caernarvonshire, in 1570, succeeded David Dolben, having been elected Dec. 31, 1633: he was canon July 5, 1600: he was preferred to the Rectory of Llanbedrog in the county of Caernarvon, Dec. 10, 1604; and Dean of Bangor Sep. 9, 1613.  He died May 26, 1637, and was buried in his own cathedral.

William Roberts, Sub-Dean of Wells, and Archdeacon of Anglesey, was consecrated in Sep. 1637, and had the Temporalities restored during the great rebellion; he suffered much on account of his loyalty, however he had the happiness to live to be restored in 1660.  He gave by Will £100 towards adorning and beautifying Bangor choir; and £100 to Queen’s college Cambridge, for maintaining an exhibition for a poor Scholar of the diocese of Bangor, with several other bequests.

Robert Price, S. T. P. Bishop of Fern, in Ireland; son of Colonel Price, of Rhiwlas, in the county of Merioneth, was nominated to succeed; but dying in Ireland, before his election was completed, he made room for

Robert Morgan, born at Bronfraith, in the county of Montgomery; chaplain to Bishop Dolben; he suffered much in the rebellion, prior to his nomination, which took place June 8, 1666.  He died Sep. 1673, aged 95, and was succeeded by

Humphrey Lloyd, S. T. P. born at Trawsfynydd, in the county of Merioneth; he was confirmed Nov. 8, and consecrated Nov. 16, 1673.  In 1685 he procured the Archdeaconries of Bangor and Anglesey, and the sinecure of Llanrhaiadr, to be annexed to the Bishoprick of Bangor for ever, by Act of Parliament; and two-thirds of both the comportions of Llandinam, to be settled for the support of the fabrick of the cathedral, and the other third for the maintenance of the Vicars of Llandinam.  He also new-cast the four bells given by Bishop Rowlands, and added a fifth bell, bigger than any of the former, all at his own charge: and dying p. xJan. 18, 1688, was buried in Bishop Rowland’s grave, aged 78, and was succeeded by

Humphrey Humphreys, Dean of Bangor, consecrated Bishop of this See June 30, 1689.  In 1701 he was translated to Hereford, where he died, and was buried in that cathedral.  He was succeeded by

John Evans, S. Th. P. born at Plas du, in the Parish of Llanarmon, Carnarvonshire: consecrated Jan. 4, 1701.  In the year 1715, he was translated to Meath in Ireland, and was succeeded at Bangor by

Benjamin Hoadley, D.D. (first English Bishop since the reformation) was confirmed March 27, 1715, and consecrated the next day.  In the year 1721, he was translated to Hereford; in 1723, to Salisbury; and in 1734, to Winchester, and was succeeded at Bangor by

Richard Reynolds, L.L.D. consecrated Dec. 3, 1721, and in 1723 translated to Lincoln, where he died 1744, and was succeeded in this See by

William Baker, S. Th. P. consecrated Aug. 1, 1723, and in 1727 he was translated to Norwich, where he died, and was succeeded by

Thomas Sherlock, S. Th. P. consecrated Feb. 4, 1727, a very learned man and an eminent preacher; he was translated to Salisbury, and in 1748 to London.

Charles Cecil, L.L.D. Bishop of Bristol, was appointed to succeed him Sep. 24, 1734; he began to repair the Bishop’s Palace at Bangor, but dying in May 1737 of the Gout in his Stomach; he was succeeded by

Thomas Herring, S. Th. P. Dean of Rochester; elected Aug. 1737.  In 1749 he was translated to York; and in 1749, on the decease of Archbishop Potter, to Canterbury, where he died in 1757, and was succeeded at Bangor, as well as in all his preferments, by

Matthew Hutton, S. Th. P. who was consecrated 1743.  He succeeded Archbishop Herring in the See of York, and upon his decease to that of Canterbury, where he died the year following.

Zachary Pearce, S. Th. P. Dean of Rochester, afterwards of Winchester, succeeded in 1747, which he resigned in 1756, upon his translation to Rochester, where he died in 1778, and was succeeded at Bangor by

John Egerton, L.L.D. Dean of Hereford, of which See his father was Bishop, who was brother to Scroop Egerton, first Duke of Bridgewater; in 1769 he was translated to Litchfield and Coventry, and from thence to Durham, when he was succeeded by

p. xiJohn Ewer, S. Th. P. Bishop of Landaff, Chaplain to the Duke of Rutland, and Canon of Windsor; he dying in 1775, was succeeded he

John Moore, S. Th. P. Dean of Canterbury, and Chaplain to the Duke of Marlborough.  He afterwards became Archbishop of Canterbury; when

Jean Warren, in 1784, was consecrated to the See; who was succeeded by

William Cleaver Bishop of Chester, who removed to St. Asaph, in 1806.

Dr. Randolph, Bishop of Oxford, succeeded, and them

Dr. Majendie, now Bishop.

DEANS OF BANGOR,

VICARS OF BANGOR,

Vicaria, collationis Episcopi, cum Rectoria Ecclesæ Parochialis Sii. Kedoll, alias Pentir, unit: et annexa.  Festa Dec. 1, & Nov. 1.

KING CHARLES LETTERS
TO THE
GENTLEMEN OF CAERNARVONSHIRE,
[Copied from the original MSS.]

Charles Rex,

Right truly and well-beloved, and trusty and well-beloved—we greete you well.  Whereas a Rebellion being raysed against us, and forces marching toward us, we are necessitated for the defence of our person and crowne, and the religion and laws established, to call upon all our good subjects to assist us; and whereas we are fully persuaded of the affection and loyalty of that our countie, and of their readiness to assist us, their King and Liedge Lord, in this our and their necessary defence, according to their duty and alleagiance.  These are to will and require you for that, and with all possible speed, to bring to Shrewsbury to our loyal Standard there to attend our further directions, the trayned bands of that countie, as well horses and foote, with such other volunteers, as your interest in them and their owne p. xivaffection shall persuade to come with them.  And if the necessary occasions of any of our trayned bands shall withold them, that either themselves or servants or other volunteers be admitted to serve in their places, with their arms compleat, which trayned bands and volunteers with these from other of our counties in our dominion of Wales we intend to serve in our regiments for a guard for our dearest Son the Prince, and receive them into our pay on their arrival at Shrewsbury, whither we desire that our countie in this our greate exigent to furnish them sufficient ammunition for their journey, and money to bear their charges, which we shall look upon as a great expression of affection and fidelity, and shall at all tymes remember to their advantage, and we require all our Justices of the Peace in that our countie to give their assistance unto us herein and all our loving subjects of the same to be obedient to your directions, in pursuance of these our commands, and for soe doing this shall be to you and every of them a sufficient warrant.  Given at our Court at Darby this 15th day of September, 1642.

To the Sheriff and Commissioners of Array, in the countie of Carnarvon

Charles Rex.

Right trusty and well-beloved, we greete you well,—We have understood from the Gentlemen you sent to us, your loyal and unanimous resolutions for the advancement of our service, and for your sending to our standard two hundred armed soldiers, and moneys for their conduct and maintenance, for which soe considerable assistance as we return you hereby our royall thanks, soe we must desire you to speede the sending hither of those soldiers unto our standard, all that may be.  And least any disaffected to us and our service should presume to oppose you in this work, we authorise and command you to use your utmost power and endeavour to apprehend and bring in safe custodie to us any one or more that shall appear in opposition or disturbance of you herein.  As alsoe for your more effectual proceeding in this service, and for the security of our good subjects in that our countie from intestine tumults and danger, to make use of the magazin now remaining there, and of such further power of the countie as to you shall seem meete upon all occasions, for which these our letters shall be your sufficient warrant.  Given at our Court at Shrowsbury, the 28th day of September, in the eighteenth year of our raigne, 1642.

To the Commissioners of Array, of the countie of Carnarvon

p. xvCharles Rex.

Trusty and well-beloved, having great assurance of your constant and well affections unto us in this time of iminent danger, when our owne and our whole kingdom safety is concerned, and being informed and satisfied how much you have expressed your devotions to our service, We shall at all times bee ready to remember your cheerefulness thereof, and not doubting of your continuance to doe all things that may conduce to the furtherance of our safety, we do hereby give you direction, that for such moneys as you have or shall raise voluntarily within your countie for our assistance this time, over and above what is for the conducting of our owne trayned bands, you do paye the same unto John Owen, of Cleneney, in our countie of Carnarvon, Esq. one of our Colonells, who is thereby to be enabled to rayse a regiment to bring his several companies to our standard.  And for so doing this shall be to you and every of you a sufficient warrant.—Given at our Court at Chester, the five and twentieth day of September, 1642.

To the Commissioners of Array, in the countie of Carnarvon

Charles Rex.

Trusty and well beloved, we greete you well.  Whereas we have by our commission under our great seal, authorized and intrusted our trustie and well-beloved Colonell John Owen to raise in these parts, command, and unto our royal standard to conduct one regiment of foote, for our special service, our will and pleasure is, that you issue unto the said Colonell all such moneys as by you have been for our use received out of the free subscription or contribution of our good subjects of that our countie, which money we have assigned him upon the account of the said regiment, and for your soe doing this, together with his acquittance acknowledging the receit thereof shall be your sufficient warrant and discharge.  Given under our sign manuel at our Court at Shrewsbury this 28th day of September, 1642.

To our trustie and well-beloved Sir Wm. Williams, Bart. and Humphrey Jones, Esq. of the countie of Carnarvon

Charles Rex.

Trustie and well-beloved, we greete you well.  Whereas Rebellion is raysed against us and forces are marching towards us, which hath already wrought a general distraction throughout this our Realme, to the great disturbance and grievance of all our good and well-affected subjects of whose p. xviwealth we are as tender as of our owne; we are necessitated for the defence of own person and of this kingdom and the religion and lawe established, to use all expedient means for our assistance at this time.  And whereas we have received good testimony of the good affections and forward zeale of our loving subjects in the Principality of Wales, particularly in our countie of Carnarvon, and of their readiness to serve us for the preservation of the kingdom in this extremity, which we looke upon as an expression of their great fidelity, and shall remember it to their satisfaction, we shall not doubt of your willingness to give obedience to our present directions thus sent to each of you for what is in your power to perform for the furtherance of the publique safety.  We in confidence thereof doe hereby will and require you, and every of you, that such publique moneys as have been raysed or ought to have been payed for the safetie and defence of the kingdome within our sayd countie of Carnarvon, and do remayne in one or any of your hands, that you pay the same unto the hands of John Owen of Cleneney, in our sayd countie, Esq. one of the Colonells who is to bring a regiment of volunteers, That thereby he may be enabled to raise his companies, and to bring them unto our standard.  And this our warrant shall be his discharge unto you and every of you for soe doing.  And we further require that you do immediately upon receit hereof, return severally answers in writing unto us, when you and every of you shall be moved thereto, by the said Colonell Owen or any on his behalf.  Given at Wrexham, the 27th of September, 1642.

To our trustie and wel beloved Sir W. Williams, Bart. Wm. Glynn, Owen Wynn, T. Madryn, — Hookes, Arthur Williams, — Griffith, Esq. and Commissioners of the Peace for the countie of Carnarvon, &c.

Charles Rex.

Trustie and well-beloved, we greete you well.  Whereas we have lately signified our pleasure unto you that the following contribution money of our countie of Carnarvon should be payed to Collonell John Owen towards the charge of that Regiment, which he was appointed by us to rayse.  And we likewise directed our letters to severall persons who had collected the publique moneys of the same countie, which were collected for the defence of the kingdome, that they should pave them towards the same charge as beinge for the common defence of the whole kingdome.  Notwithstanding we understande noe parte of these moneys is payd as we directed.  And that Regiment which by our special appointment is to march immediately is in danger to disband for p. xviiwant of present supplie which as it is much contrarie to our expectation, who have always hitherto found the forwardness and good affections of the countie toward our service, soe may tend much to our deservice especially at this time, when we have occasion to make tryall of the Loyalty and forwardness of all our subjects, and the payment of those moneyes to the said Colonell beinge more acceptable and of more service unto us, than if they had been payd unto our owne hands, who must otherwise have sent them towards the supplyinge of that Regiment.  We doe desire to have cause still to continue our gracious opinion of our gracious opinion of our subjects of that countie.  And we are confident if we have not satisfaction herein, it is through the coldness or disaffection of some particular persons who prefer private ends before the publique.  And therefore our will is, that you use all possible diligence that we may have satisfaction herein by speedy advance of the contribution moneyes, and calling upon those who keepe the publique moneyes in their hands, that they forthwith pay them to Colonell Owen, or otherwise that you certifie unto us with all speed, by whose meanes our service is so much disturbed, that we may knowe and recompence such persons according to their desert.  And for that it much concerns our service that the forces raysed in that countie should all march in one body, our will is, that those 500 armed men, which are by that countie to be sett forth for our service, be joyned with the sayde Regiment and speedily march with them towards us according to such directions as we have given to the sayd Collonell Owen.  Given at our Court at Woodstock the 29th day of October, in the eighteenth year of our Reigne.

To the Commissioners of Array, &c.

Charles Rex.

Trusty and well-beloved we greet you well.  Whereas we have constituted and appointed our deerest sonne the Prince to be our Lieutenant Generall in our counties of Worcester, Salop, Chester and North Wales, and have appointed our right trusty and well-beloved Arthur Lord Capell cheefe Commander of the same under him, and whereas we have resolved to rayse in our said counties a Regiment of fifteen hundred foote to be the liefe guard of our said deerest Sonne.  These are to will and require you to make the same known to our good subjects of that countie, and to take speedy and effectual order for the leavying and arming of the said Regiment, according to our Commission in that behalf granted p. xviiito our trustie and welbeloved Serjeant Major Woodhouse whom we have appointed to levy and command them.  Soe not doubting of your ready assistance herein, we bid you heartily farewell.  Given at our Court att Oxford, the 18th day of March, 1642.

To the Commissioners of Array, and Sheriff of Carnarvon

Charles Rex.

Trustye and well-beloved, we greet you well.—Whereas we are informed, that you have diverse peeces of Artillery, which may be of use and avayle to our citty of Worcester and towne of Shrowsbury, if they shall be removed thither respectively, and there mounted for the defence of those places.  And being further assured of your good affections to our person, and the advancement of our service, we pray you (all private communications being layd aside) to lend unto us your sayd severall peeces of Artillery, with all their Appurtenances, to be conveyed foorthwith unto, and employed in our sayd cittye and towne, at the proper costs and charges of them respectively, as alsoe, att their like charges, for the returne of the sayd peeces of Artillery and their appurtenances home againe, att the end of the service, unless in the interim it shall be agreed betweene you and the sayd townes, to buy and sell the sayd peeces, for such price and consideration as they can respectively accord for them, or any of them.  Of this service we desire you not to fayle, being of much consequence to our affayres, and in performance whereof, you shall do us a good pleasure, for which these our letters shall be your warrant.  Given under our signett, at our Court at Oxford, the 31st December, 1642.

To John Griffith, Esq. &c.

Charles Rex.

Trusty and welbeloved, we greete you well.—Whereas we have entrusted and authorised our right trusty and welbeloved Arthur Lord Capell to be our Lieutenant General of that and other of our counties, and to provide for the security and preservation thereof by the best ways and means he can devise.  And whereas it hath been thought requisite and necessary for the purpose aforesaid to levy a competent number of foote and Dragoons in our said countie.  Our will and pleasure is that in order to our said service you shall receive and assist any warrants of Commissioners as are or shall be issued from the said Lord Capell, with the same care and respect as if they were our owne, since what he hath p. xixdone or shall doe herein is done by our command, direction, commission and authority, and for soe doing this shall be your warrant.  Given at our Court att Oxford, the 15th day of June, 1643.

To the Commissioners of Array, &c.

Charles Rex.

Trusty and welbeloved, we greete you well.—Whereas we are informed that Sir Thos. Middleton, Knt. is made Lieutenant General of North Wales by Commission from one or both of our Houses of Parliament, and whereas Edward Vaughan, Gent. hath withdrawn himself from our allegiance, contrary to our express command, for the prevention of all danger and mischief that may proceed from either of them to our countie or any part of North Wales, our will and pleasure is, and we do hereby require you and every of you to use your utmost power and industrie to apprehend or seize the persons of the said Sir Thos. Middleton and Edward Vaughan, and having seized them to keep them in safe custody, until you shall receive our further order on that behalf.  And for so doing this shall be your sufficient warrant.  Given at our Court at Oxford, the 16th of June, 1643.

To the Commissioners of Array, &c.

Charles Rex.

Trusty and well beloved, we greet you well.  We are very sensible of your free and reall expressions of your loyalty and affection to us upon all occasions, for the advance of our service:—And though we might well conceive it needlesse to stir you up to the performance of these duties, whereunto you are already very forward, yet we thought good hereby to put you in mind of the great necessity of providing moneys for the maintenance of our forces, for the defence of those parts against the rebells, and to propose unto you, as that which we think a very fit course, that you follow the good example of our good subjects of our countie of Salop, and join with our trusty and well-beloved Arthur, Lord Capell, in advising upon, and raysing some competent monthly contribution in that our county, proportionable to what they have levyed, and also in advancing such considerable sums of money as you can provide, according as divers of our well-affected subjects of the gentry of Salop have already done.  We also think it very requisite, and have p. xxsignified so much to the Lord Capell, that the High Sheriff of that our countie, should attend him about this affair, and that some person well affected, may be chosen out of our said countie to be always resident with him, that may receive advertisement of your proceedings in this business, and may signifie from time to time to that our countie, the condition of our affairs there, soe not donating of your ready compliance herein, wee bid you heartily farewell.  Given at our Court at Oxford, the 23rd June, 1643.

To the Commissioners of Array, of the County of Carnarvon, &c.

Charles Rex.

Trustie and well beloved, we greete you well.  It cannot but be displeasing to us that any of our subjects, especially such as you, who should be good examples to others, should neglect our service, and the authorities of such to whom we have given power to call you hereunto, such hath been your wilful declining, as we hear, of the Lord Capell’s summons to you by his Letters, to appear and join with the rest of the countyes under his command, that we do assure you, if we hear not shortly of your better complyance with him, we shall have much cause to suspect your disaffection, for the urgency of our affairs now admits not of procrastinations, nor our reall service of coldness.  Given at our Court at Oxford, the last day of July, 1643.

To the Sheriff and Commissioners of Array, of the countie of Carnarvon

p. xxiA
CATALOGUE
OF
Some of the Rarer Plants
WHICH GROW
IN CAERNARVONSHIRE,
WITH THE HABITATS OF THE MOST RARE.

By Mr. J. ROBERTS, Surgeon, Caernarvon.

Veronica Spicata, a [xxi]

Salvia verbenaca

Iris fætidissima

Schænus albus

Lycopus europæus

Poa alpina

Festuca rubra

— vivipara

Rotbollia incurvata

Galium cruciatum, a

— boreale, b

Centunculus minimus

Rubia peregrina

Alchemilla alpina, c

Pulmonaria maritima

Hottonia palustris

Convolvulus soldanella

Campanula hederacea

Lobelia dortmanna

Samolus valerandi

Euonymus europæus

Viola lutea, d

Beta maritima

Salsola kali

Crithmum maritimum

Œnanthe pimpinelloides

Scandix odorata

Sambucus ebulus

Parnassia palustris, e

Drosera longifolia

Viburnum opulus

Scilla verna

Anthericum serotinum, f

Juncus acutus

— triglumis, g

Rumex digynus

Triglochin maritimum

Alisma natans, h

Vaccinium vitis idæa

Saxifraga stellaris

— nivalis, i

— oppositifolia, i

— cœspitosa, i

— palmata, i

— hypnoides, i

— platypetala, i

Silene nutans, k

— acaulis

Arenaria verna

— peploides

Sedum rupestre, c

Cerastium alpinum, c

— latifolium, l

Euphorbia portlandica

Spiræa filipendula

Pyrus aria, m

Rubus saxatalis, n

— chamæmorus

Potentilla verna, a

Geum rivale

p. xxiiPapaver cambricum

Nymphæa lutea

—alba

Cistus marifolius, a

Thalictrum minus

— alpinum, c

Trollius europæus

Ajuga alpina

Galeopsis grandiflora, o

Galeobdolon luteum, p

Scutellaria minor

Antirrhinum orontium

Scrophularia vernalis, a

Lamium album

Crambe maritima

Subularia aquatica, q

Draba incana

Arabia hispida, l

— thaliana

Cheiranthus sinuatus

Erodium cicutarium

— maritimum

Geranium sanguineum

Malva moschata

Lavatera arborea

Fumaria claviculata

Genista tinctoria

Anthyllis vulneraria

Orobus sylvaticus

Lathyrus sylvestris, r

Vicia sylvatica

Medicago sativa, s

Hypericum androsæmum

— dubium

Tragopogon pratensis

Hedypnois taraxaci

Hieracium alpinum

Cichorium intybus

Serratula alpina, b

Gnaphalium dioicum, b

Orchis pyramidalis, a

Orchis conopsea

Satyrium viride

— albidum

Ophrys ovata

— cordata, u

Serapias ensifolia, v

Malaxis paludosa, w

Sparganium natans, x

Carex dioica

— atrata

— fulva, c

— rigida

— vesicaria

Salix herbacea, c

Empetrum nigrum

Juniperus communis

Rhodiola rosea

Myrica gale

Ophioglossum vulgatum

Osmunda regalis

— lunaria

Lycopodium clavatum

— selaginoides

— selago

— annotimum, g

— alpinum

Polypodium arvonicum, y

Aspiduim lonchitis

— Thelypteris

— oreopteris

— aculeatum

Asplenium marinum

— viride

— Septentrionale

Scolopendruim ceterach

Pteris crispa

Cyathea fragile

— regia

Hymenophyllum tunbridgense

Isoetes lacustris, q

p. xxiiiThe following are recommended as good Guides:

Thomas Williams, of Glan y Bala, or the Cottage between the Lakes, Llanberis.

Thomas Phillips, Thomas Griffith, and all the Boatmen at Cwm y glo, Llanrug.

Footnotes

[12]  It is in this manner, (observes Mr. Pennant, speaking of Tommen y Rhodwydd in Yale) that we must account for the total disappearance of many Welsh Castles, whose names are preserved in History, and whose vestiges we have sought for in vain.—They were made of wood, as was very customary with several ancient nations, and with others of later date.  The Persians, on the approach of the Spartans, secured themselves within their wooden walls, and Cæsar found great resistance from a Tower, in the Alpine Castle of Larignum, made of the timber of the Larix, or the Larch, which was found to be incombustible.  In later times, the Castle of Bamborough was built originally by Ida, with wood; the Burg of Murray was fortified by the Danes, with the same material.—The people of the same country, in 1228, had Castles of wood; and a century after these, more recent instances: William de Melton, Archbishop of York, in 1317, fortified the Mount in that City, called the Old Bale, with planks, eighteen inches thick.

[17]  The Court of King’s Bench has very lately determined, that stage Coach passengers cannot legally be required to pay any demand whatever, for being conveyed over the ferry at Conway, and for carriage of their luggage, over and above the amount of their respective fares in such Coach.

[30]  Probably at Braich y Bedd, near Hafod Gelyn.  There is a Tradition that in former times there was a Church near that place, and a spot is still shewn distinguished by the name of Hên Fonwent, (old Church-yard); and it is not unlikely but the Walsh Princes might nave had their Summer residence here, if we may be allowed to judge from the name; for Garth Celyn must have been near this spot.  There is also a Tradition, that the village was set on fire, by Oliver Cromwell’s men, from the Bridge to the Church-yard, and that they lighted a fire under the Bell rope, in the Church, which they made use of as a Stable.

[38]  Some idea of the magnitude of this concern may be formed, from the Proprietor having shipped off, from Port Penrhyn, in the year 1819, Slates to the amount of Fifty-eight Thousand Pounds.

[43]  The Precentor, though at present unendowed, will in a few years have a Salary annexed to his Office, in consequence of a Decree lately made by the Lord Chancellor in his favour.

[53]  This Ferry, probably, took its name from the Hundred or Division of the Island in which it to situated, viz. Tindaethwy.

[55]  Near this Ferry, on the Anglesey shore, is a Rock known by the name of Carreg Iago, or rather Carreg yr Iacon, or Arch-Iacon; (the Archdeacon’s stone) rendered memorable on account of Archbishop Baldwin having stood up to preach the crusade upon it, at the time of his peregrinations for that purpose through Wales, 1188; and Alexander, Archdeacon of Bangor, is said to have interpreted to the people.

[56]  Ceris, appears to be derived either from Cawr-rys (or rhys) the mighty rushing, or Gyr-rhys, which conveys nearly the same meaning;—Ymryson, to contend, is compounded, of ym and rhys; and the English word race, or course, is probably derived from this word.

[60]  The shore near Porthamel, (Perth Amelius, according to Rowlands; Porth ym moel, as others conjecture,) is famed for being the place where Suetonius landed; his infantry were conveyed over in boats, probably near a spot still called Pont yr Ysgraffiau, and his horse crossed, partly by swimming and partly fording.—Ready to receive them, appeared on the shore, a motley army, (as Tacitus informs us) and women, running wildly about, in black attire, with dishevelled hair, and like furies, brandishing their torches; and the Druids surrounding them, and lifting up their hands to Heaven, and pouring forth the most dreadful imprecations.  The Roman soldiers stood astonished with the sight—at length, animated by their leader, and encouraging each other, being ashamed to be intimidated by a womanly, and fanatic band, they advanced with their ensigns, and overthrew all who opposed them, destroying them in their own fires.  After the battle, they placed garrisons in the towns, and cut down the groves consecrated to their horrid superstitions; for these people, considered it lawful to offer in sacrifice, the captives taken in war, and, to consult human entrails.—How thankful ought we to be for the benign influence of the Gospel of peace, by which we were delivered from the yoke of superstition, and the abominations of Heathenism!

[61a]  The meaning of the word is Resting-place, a name given it by Lord Lucan, being descriptive of the purpose for which it was erected; his Lordship usually spending a few days here, on his why to and from Ireland.  The house stands on a bold eminence, and commands a full view of the Bridge and Ferry; and the inmates of this sweet retreat, have the pleasure of beholding the busy bustling scene, without being annoyed or discommoded, either by the noise of the passengers or the dust of the highway, as is frequently the case with houses situated near a public road.

[61b]  Y Faenol, is derived from Maenol, or Maenawr, (from which probably comes the English word Manor, and the vulgar Latin Manerium) meaning as explained in Howel Dda’s laws, either a lowland or upland district, bounded or marked out by large stones, (singular maen, plural meini) the former containing four Vills, and the latter thirteen.  The new house erected by the present proprietor, is at some distance from the old one, the latter is very ancient, and has a very curious Gothic Family Chapel nearly adjoining it, dedicated to St. Mary.

[63]  Near the same spot, as it is conjectured, where Agricola pasted over into the Island.

[66]  This melancholy event took place on the night of the 5th of December, being the Carnarvon Fair day, and the Boatmen probably in liquor: the cries of distress were heard from both shores.  One remarkable circumstance deserves to be recorded, that only one person (out of 69) survived in this instance, as well as the other, and both their names Hugh Williams.

[69]  Caer, the fortified Town; yn Arvon, in the District of Arfon, one of the Hundreds of this County, so called from its situation, opposite Mona, or Anglesey, which is the is the signification of the word; viz. Ar, upon; Mona, Anglesey.

[74]  The writer is aware that a very different account is given the origin of this motto, viz. that these were the arms of the King of Bohemia, killed by the Black Prince.

[91]  Carnarvon, does not owe its name to Edward I. as is generally supposed; for Giraldus Cambrensis mentions it in his memorable journey with the Archbishop, in 1188; and Llewelyn the Great dates from it a Charter, in the year 1221: probably the Caernarvon of those times was the ancient Segontium; whose name the Welch had changed to Caer-ar-Fon.

[92]  A Well near the old Fort, now called Hen Waliau, bears the name of that Princess, and some very slight remains of Ruins, point out the probable situation of this old Building, not far from the banks of the Seiont, to the right of the road leading to Pont Saint.

[95]  The above William Griffith, of Carnarvon and Tref-Arthen, was descended by the Mother’s side, (as Mr. Rowlands informs us) from the Pilston’s of this Town, and his Grand Daughter, Margaret, conveyed this property to Griffith Jones, of Castellmarch, in Lleyn; and his Daughter Margaret marrying Sir William Williams, of Vaenol, Baronet, that gentleman consequently became possessed of it.

[98a]  Specimens of Ancient Welsh Poetry.—London 1784.  4to.

[98b]  The Red Dragon, was the device of Cedwalladr, which all his descendants wore on their banners.

[98c]  Supposed to be Tal y Foel, as it is now called.

[103] The word Bala, with regard to a lake, seems to convey the same meaning as Aber, when applied to a river, viz. its embouchure.

[108]  David Thomas, the Welsh Bard, better known by the name of Dafydd Ddu o Eryri, has taken a house in this Parish, as he intends to quit his present habitation in the Parish of Llandwrog, (where he has resided some time) about April next.  We cannot omit this opportunity of noticing this favoured Son of the Awen, (Muse) who is generally considered as the first Welsh Bard now living; and is another instance of what may be achieved by great talents, and a strong natural genius, though unassisted by the advantages of education.

[126]  A conjecture, partly founded on tradition, attributes the erection of this fortress to Pardarn Beisrydd, son of Idawl; as we are informed to Mr. Pennant.

[128a]  Rhodri Mawr, the son of Merfyn Vrych, Prince of Wales, A.D. 843.

[128b]  Rhun ap Maelgwn, A.D. 585.

[131]  It was reported that the Bard had perished on the Cardiganshire Hills.

[133]  Here we have the testimony of Leland, that Wyddfa is Snowdon, and Creigiau Ryri Rocks were the Forest of Snowdon, which comprehended nearly the whole County.

[149]  The Devil’s Bridge is near Hafod, in Cardiganshire, twelve miles from Aberystwith.

[159]  Supposed to be derived either from Gafl, pl. Geifl, Forks; or from Yr Ufel, Fire, from the circumstance of their having been made use of as signal posts, and been lighted on them for that purpose.

[179]  John Wynn ap Hugh, of the family of Bodvel, was Standard Bearer at the Battle of Norwich, Temp. Edward VI. for which service he had Bardsey, and Court, in Aberdaron, and was Sheriff of Carnarvonshire 1551; he married Elisabeth, daughter of Sir John Puleston, by a daughter of Robert ap Meredith ap Hwikin Llwyd, of Glyn Llifon.

[180]  It is probably Pwll Nigel might have taken its name from this Nigel.

[xxi]  a Gloddaeth,—b Rocks above Llyn Idwel,—c Snowdon,—d Llanberis,—e Cwm Idwel,—f on inaccessible rocks near Twll du, Snowdon, &c.—g near llyn y Cwn,—h Lake near Dolbadarn Castle,—i near Twll du,—k near Gloddaeth,—i on Clogwyn du’r Arddu,—m Penmaen mawr,—n near Glan y Bala,—o near Bangor,—p between Llanrwst and Conway,—q in the bottom of Llyn y Cwn, and Ffynon Frech,—r near Conway,—s near St. Helen’s well,—t Creuddyn,—u by the Waterfall near Aber,—v rare in Fachwen,—w near Dol Ty Du,—x in Llyn Ogwen, and Llanberis lakes,—y on a black rock near Clogwyn y Garnedd.

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