The Project Gutenberg EBook of Pihai Travelog, by Yong-he Yu This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. Title: Pihai Travelog Author: Yong-he Yu Release Date: May 6, 2017 [EBook #54670] Language: Chinese Character set encoding: UTF-8 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PIHAI TRAVELOG *** Produced by Miaoyin Lin 卷上 卷中 卷下 卷上 余自辛未春入閩,由建寧、延津以迄榕城;初秋,又自榕城歷興、泉至漳郡之 石馬;未幾,又之漳浦、海澄、龍巖、寧洋諸屬邑暨各沿海村落,還至石馬; 又以扁舟渡廈門,五日而返。壬申。再返榕城,留居司馬王君仲千署中。蓋八 閩之轍跡已歷六矣。逮癸酉秋,有泰寧之役,維舟邵武城下,信宿而返。其明 年又之汀之武平,由延津溯流而上,登鐵巖之高,涉九礲之險;半歲之間, 往返四過,凡山川幽窅之區,罔不足歷而目覽焉。於是八閩遊遍矣。 我朝聲施遠被,偽鄭歸誠;臺灣遠在東海外,自洪荒迄今,未聞與中國通一譯 之貢者,迺遂郡縣其地,設官分職,輸賦貢金,䑸帆往來,絡繹海上,增八閩 而九,甚盛事也。余性耽遠遊,不避阻險,常謂臺灣已入版圖,乃不得一覽其 概,以為未慊。會丙子冬,榕城藥庫災,毀硝磺火藥五十餘萬無纖介遺。有旨 責償典守者,而臺灣之雞籠、淡水,實產石硫磺,將往採之。余欣然笑曰: 『吾事濟矣』。丁丑春王,遂戒裝行,同人言子聖平右陶、裘子紹衣、 鬍子慎履、何子襄臣、陳子子蔚、表弟趙履尊、表姪周在魯, 皆握手鄭重。有僕役徐文、余興、龍德喜請從;郊送者曹子呂陽; 同行者王君雲森也。二十四日,午刻,出南門;至大橋,會雨,留宿呂陽邸舍。 二十五日,天稍霽,行三十里,渡烏龍江,宿霧初收,江光如練;望 海口羅星塔影,如一針倒懸水中,因賦絕句:『浩蕩江波日夜流,遙 看五虎瞰山頭;海門一望三千里,只有羅星一塔浮』。晚至坊口,晤 石君某、董君贊侯;董君為諸羅令長子,石為董君渭陽,遂訂偕行。 二十六日,度相思嶺;憶余自入閩,已六過此嶺,年來齒髮益衰,憮然興感, 賦詩曰:『閩中七載作勞人,六染相思嶺上塵;獨有蒼蒼雙鬢色,經過一度一回 新』。晚宿漁溪。二十七日,曉行,肩輿在晨光薄靄中,村民攜犁牽犢, 往來隴上。余買山無日,不勝慨然!賦詩曰:『山色曉逾潔,溪聲靜自流; 人言隔隴阪,犬吠出村陬;細雨沾衣濕,輕寒動客愁;白雲真可羨, 舒捲在峰頭』。午刻至浦尾,輿夫以肩輿置小舟中,余雖乘舟,實坐輿上。 舟人持竹篙挽舟在岸上行,舟去甚疾。岸上撐船,舟中乘轎,一時兩奇事 ,僅見於此。岸旁多老榕,根株盤結,離奇萬態,有十餘樹排聯半里 而仍屬一株者。余嘗維舟其下,至今念之,愛其榮茂如昔,為賦詩曰: 『榕陰垂一畝,斤斧慨無施;臃腫多駢榦,𧐖蜷盡附枝;風霜經飽歷, 歲月自榮滋。相見長如此,曾無凋落時』?再過涵頭,煙火萬家,亦一大村 落。憶余辛未過此,噉荔甚佳,流連信宿而去;今又六年矣!晚宿興化郡。 二十八日,行莆陽道中;早麥已秀,風過成麥浪,蓋四月時令也。嶺南 春早,於此可見。賦詩曰:『曉起籃輿逐隊行,今朝差喜得春晴;翻 畦早麥初成穗,遶徑寒流自有聲;隴阪雲移青嶂合,郊原風蹴綠波平 。年來已識躬耕樂,何事勞勞又遠征』?二十九日,渡洛陽橋,至泉 郡。值陸師提督吳公英以詰朝蒞任,五營兵將兜鍪櫜鞬,臨郊列伍以 迎;而子衿亦傾城爭出,趨蹌恐後。因賦所見:『百里金戈競路斜, 紛紛鐵騎亂如麻;無端呫嗶咿唔者,也曳藍袍候使車』。晚宿郡城。 二月朔日,宿沙溪。初二日,行四十里,至劉五店,即五通渡也。渡實 支海,廣十餘里。登舟,羣風驟至,巨浪如山,帆掠水三尺,傾斜欲覆, 浪入舟中,衣冠盡溼。抵岸即廈門地,顧視日影,已墮崦嵫;復行三十里, 抵水仙宮,漏下已二十刻。旅舍隘甚,無容足地,姑就和鳳宮神廟,坐以待 曉。明日(初三日),假水師裨將公署館焉。晤蕭山來子衛,為余覓舟, 為渡海計。值大風不輟,聞萬石、虎溪二巖為廈門山水之勝,拉石君、董君、 王君往遊。至萬石岩,巨石林立,欹斜合沓,若連楹複室,而迴環曲折, 一徑可通,偪仄處,傴僂匍匐,俯首側體然後度;有時瀑流淙淙,橫拂肩袖 間,其實在澗底石下行也。洞中宏敞,在石几可憑,清泉可濯。奴子陳餚核, 歡飲竟日。抵暮,循舊路返。每值陡隘處,令一人當關,眾以猜枚鬥勝; 勝者得斬關度,童子進酒飲不勝者,至前隘處易勝者守關,而令不勝者奪之。 凡奪十七關始出洞,而新月一彎,已掛林杪矣。相共踏月歸,賦詩曰: 『何年月黑風狂夜?吹落唅岈覆一谿;詩裏未經摩詰畫,袖中難倩米顛攜;雲 流石罅疑天近,瀑濺衣裙識洞低;盤礴不知春日永,欲尋歸路幾番迷』。 初四日,復偕訪虎溪岩。登其巔,巨石大可一二畝,高十餘丈,圍圓似鼓; 曲磴緣石旁可登,有巨石斜覆鼓上,壁立插漢,位置殊怪,不知造物何以設 想,與萬石岩各擅其奇。賦詩曰:『絕頂多奇石,巑岏聚一叢;懸崖臨巨壑, 疊嶂吼長風;屐折危欄轉,笻支曲磴通;扶桑遙在望,落日晚潮紅』。 巖畔頹垣小徑,雲是偽鄭公子錦舍、聰舍讀書處,惟有砌蟲唧唧草間。 銅駝廢井,何地蔑有?祇為遊人增慨。然萬石、虎谿二巖,巨石雖多, 絕無峰巒峭態,小如拳、大如屋,率皆圓鈍椎魯物;即有層疊而上者, 望之亦纍卵耳。廈門孤懸海中,周廣二三百里,步步皆山,巖石無小大, 悉作卵形,亦山川情性然也。余以登陟致勞,腰疾復作,掖而後行者累日。 十六日,小瘥,風亦暫止,舟人促行,遂登舟。俄而急雨驟至,雨過, 風復橫。海舶在巨浪中,搖曳震蕩,凡三晝夜無甯息。登舷望港口, 左為廈門支山,右為海澄縣古浪嶼山,兩山對峙,蜿蜓入海;盡處有小山矗起 中流,舟子言是大旦門,海舶出洋必由此。余曰:『詩不云乎「鳧鷖在亹」, 疏曰:「水流峽中,兩岸如門,謂之亹」。是大旦門與金門、廈門,悉應從亹, 不當從門也』。若以形勢言,大旦門為廈門門戶,金廈門又漳泉門戶矣。 十九日,風息波平。石君、董君皆至。方共敘三日闊,董君忽委頓, 伏艎底大嘔。舟人伐鼓鳴鉦,揚帆起椗。約行二十里,抵向所見大旦門。 有十二舶,皆依山泊宿。二十日,無風,不能行。二十一日,黎明,聞鉦鼓聲, 披衣起視,已乘微風出大旦門。一望蒼茫,淼無涯涘,同泊十二舶參差並進。 望舟左數十里外,有黃土坡,隱隱可見。凡自廈門往臺灣水道,當自乾趨巽, 舟師忽轉舵指坎。比午,至黃土坡下椗。使從者問之,對曰: 『舟無風不行,依此暫泊耳』。復問:『此何處』?曰:『遼羅,是金門支山』。 蓋已去大旦門七八十里矣。視同行,僅得三舶,餘皆不復可見。頃之,有微風, 復起椗行。比暮,視黃土坡猶未遠,以風力弱不勝帆也。始悟海洋泛舟, 固畏風,又甚畏無風。大海無櫓搖棹撥理,千里萬里,祇藉一帆風耳。憶往歲 榕城晤梁谿季君蓉洲,言自臺令旋省,至大洋中,風絕十有七日,舟不移尺寸, 水平如鏡,視澈波底,有礁石可識;斯言誠然既暮,就寢。初更風漸作, 寤聽舷間浪激聲甚厲,而艎中董君呻吟聲,若相和不輟。夜半,渡紅水溝。 二十二日,平旦,渡黑水溝。臺灣海道,惟黑水溝最險。自北流南, 不知源出何所。海水正碧,溝水獨黑如墨,勢又稍窳,故謂之溝。廣約 百里,湍流迅駛,時覺腥穢襲人。又有紅黑間道蛇及兩頭蛇繞船游泳, 舟師以楮鏹投之,屏息惴惴,懼或順流而南,不知所之耳。紅水溝不甚險, 人頗泄視之。然二溝俱在大洋中,風濤鼓盪,而與綠水終古不淆,理亦 難明。渡溝良久,聞鉦鼓作於舷間,舟師來告:『望見澎湖矣』。余登鷁尾 高處憑眺,祇覺天際微雲,一抹如線,徘徊四顧,天水欲連;一舟蕩漾, 若纖埃在明鏡中。賦詩曰:『浩蕩孤帆入杳冥,碧空無際漾浮萍;風翻駭浪 千山白,水接遙天一線青;迴首中原飛野馬,揚舲萬里指晨星;扶搖乍徙 非難事,莫訝莊生語不經』。頃之,視一抹如線者,漸廣漸近矣。午刻, 至澎湖之馬祖澳;相去僅十許丈,以風不順,帆數輾轉不得入澳。比入,已暮。 二十三日,乘三板登岸(三板即腳船也。海舶大,不能近岸,凡欲往來, 則乘三板;至欲開行,又拽上大船載之)。岸高不越丈,浮沙沒骭, 草木不生;有水師裨將統兵二千人暨一巡檢司守之。澎湖凡六十四島澳, 曰:南天嶼、草嶼、西嶼坪、貓嶼、布袋澳、八罩山、東嶼坪、水垵尾、 西吉、花嶼、鋤頭插、馬鞍嶼、東吉、將軍澳、布袋嶼、虎井嶼、船帆嶼、 岑雞嶼、豬母落水、桶盤嶼、月眉後鼻、西嶼頭、風櫃尾、雞籠嶼、鐵線灣、 紅毛城、四角嶼、雙頭掛、暗澳、案山仔、林投仔、牛心嶼、䗩仔灣、 天妃澳(有副將衙門)、鎖管港(有城)、銃城(有城)、巡檢司、小果葉、 潭邊、𧒄仔灣、小池角、龍門港、大果葉、大池角、龜壁港、沙港底、 中墩嶼、竹篙灣、鼎灣嶼、吼門、陽嶼、雁靖嶼、赤嵌仔、小門嶼、陰嶼、 土地公嶼、椗鉤嶼、姑婆嶼、雞善嶼、籃飯嶼、島嶼、員貝嶼、吉貝嶼、 墨嶼,悉斷續不相聯屬,彼此相望,在煙波縹緲間。遠者或不可見, 近者亦非舟莫即。澳有大小,居民有眾寡,然皆以海為田,以魚為糧; 若需米榖,雖升斗必仰給臺郡,以沙磧不堪種植也。居人臨水為室,潮至, 輒入人室中,即官署不免。頃之歸舟,有罟師鬻魚者,持巨蟹二枚, 赤質白文,厥狀甚異,又鯊魚一尾,重可四五斤,猶活甚,余以付庖人, 用佐午炊。庖人將剖魚,一小鯊從腹中躍出,剖之,乃更得六頭,以投水中, 皆游去,始信鯊魚胎生。申刻出港,泊澳外。舟人駕三板登岸,伋水畢, 各謀晚餐。余獨坐舷際,時近初更,皎月未上,水波不動,星光滿天, 與波底明星相映:上下二天,合成圓器。身處其中,遂覺宇宙皆空。露坐甚久, 不忍就寢,偶成一律:『東望扶桑好問津,珠宮璇室俯為鄰;波濤靜息魚龍夜, 參斗橫陳海宇春;似向遙天飄一葉,還從明鏡渡纖塵。閒吟抱膝檣烏下,薄露 泠然已溼茵』。少間,黑雲四布,星光盡掩。憶余友言君右陶言:『海上夜黑不 見一物,則擊水以視』。一擊而水光飛濺,如明珠十斛,傾撒水面, 晶光熒熒,良久始滅,亦奇觀矣!夜半微風徐動,舟師理舵欲發,余始就枕。 二十四日,晨起,視海水自深碧轉為淡黑,回望澎湖諸島猶隱隱可見, 頃之,漸沒入煙雲之外,前望臺灣諸山已在隱現間;更進,水變為淡藍, 轉而為白,而臺郡山巒畢陳目前矣。迎岸皆淺沙,沙間多漁舍,時有小艇往來 不絕。望鹿耳門,是兩岸沙角環合處;門廣里許,視之無甚奇險,門內轉大。 有鎮道海防盤詰出入,舟人下椗候驗。久之,風大作,鼓浪如潮,蓋自渡洋 以來所未見。念大洋中不知更作何狀,頗為同行未至諸舶危之。既驗,又迂迴 二三十里,至安平城下,復橫渡至赤嵌城,日已晡矣。蓋鹿耳門內浩瀚之勢, 不異大海;其下實皆淺沙,若深水可行舟處,不過一線,而又左右盤曲,非素 熟水道者,不敢輕入,所以稱險。不然,既入鹿耳,斜指東北,不過十里已達 赤嵌,何必迂迴乃爾?會風惡,仍留宿舟中。二十五日,買小舟登岸,近岸水 益淺,小舟復不進,易牛車,從淺水中牽挽達岸,詣臺邑二尹蔣君所下榻。 計自二十一日大旦門出洋以迄臺郡,凡越四晝夜。海洋無道里可稽,惟計以更, 分晝夜為十更,向謂廈門至臺灣,水程十一更半:自大旦門七更至澎湖, 自澎湖四更半至鹿耳門。風順則然;否則,十日行一更,未易期也。嘗聞 海舶已抵鹿耳門,為東風所逆,不得入,而門外鐵板沙又不可泊,勢必仍 返澎湖;若遇月黑,莫辨澎湖島澳,又不得不重迴廈門,以待天明者, 往往有之矣。海上不得順風,寸尺為艱。余念同行十二舶未至,蔣君職司出 入,有籍可稽,日索閱之,同至者僅得半,余或遲三五日至七八日, 最後一舟逾十日始至,友人僕在焉。訊其故,曰:『風也』。余曰: 『同日同行,又同水道,何汝一舟獨異』?曰:『海風無定,亦不一例; 常有兩舟並行,一變而此順彼逆,禍福攸分,此中似有鬼神司之,遑計遲速乎』? 余以舟中累日震蕩·頭涔涔然,雖憑几倚榻,猶覺在波濤中。越二日, 始謁客。晤太守靳公、司馬齊公、參軍尹君、諸羅令董君、鳳山令朱君。 又因齊司馬晤友呂子鴻圖,握手甚慰。渠既不意余之忽為海外遊,以為天降; 余於異域得見故人,尤快。相過無虛日,較同客榕城日加密,揮毫、 較射、雅歌、投壺,無所不有;暇則論議古今,賞奇析疑;復取臺灣郡志, 究其形勢,共相參考。蓋在八閩東南,隔海水千餘里,前代未嘗與中國通, 中國人曾不知有此地,即輿圖、一統志諸書,附載外夷甚悉,亦無臺灣之名; 惟明會典「太監王三保赴西洋水程」有「赤嵌汲水」一語,又不詳赤嵌何地。 獨澎湖於明時屬泉郡同安縣,漳泉人多聚漁於此,歲征漁課若干。嘉隆間,琉 球踞之。明人小視其地,棄而不問。若臺灣之曾屬琉球與否,俱無可考。 臺之民,土著者是為土番,言語不與中國通;況無文字,無由記說前代事。 迨萬曆間,復為荷蘭人所有(荷蘭即今紅毛也);建臺灣、赤嵌二城 (臺灣城今呼安平城,赤嵌城今呼紅毛樓),考其歲為天啟元年。二城 彷彿西洋人所畫屋室圖,周廣不過十畝,意在駕火砲,防守水口而已; 非有埤堄闉闍,如中國城郭,以居人民者也。我朝定鼎,四方賓服,獨鄭成功 阻守金廈門,屢煩征討。鄭氏不安,又值京口敗歸,欲擇地為休養計,始謀攻取 臺灣,聯檣並進;紅毛嚴守大港(大港在鹿耳門之南,今已久淤,不通舟楫), 以鹿耳門沙淺港曲,故弛其守,欲誘致之。成功戰艦不得入大港,視鹿耳門不守, 遂命進師;紅毛方幸其必敗,適海水驟漲三丈餘,鄭氏無復膠沙之患,急攻二城。 紅毛大恐,與戰又不勝,請悉收其類去,時順治十六年八月也。成功之有臺灣, 似有天助,於是更臺灣名承天府,設天興、萬年二州;又以廈門為思明州, 而自就臺灣城居焉。鄭氏所謂臺灣城,即今安平城也,與今郡治隔一海港, 東西相望約十里許,雖與鯤身連,實則臺灣外沙,前此紅毛與鄭氏皆身居之者; 誠以海口為重,而緩急於舟為便耳。成功歿於康熙元年,子經繼立(經即錦舍)。 經紈絝子,無遠略,其下諸將多來歸者,朝廷悉以一宜畀之,由是歸誠者日益眾。 康熙二十年,鄭經亡,子克塽繼;年甫十四,幼不諳國事,而總督姚公(啟聖)銳 意圖剿,多設反間、間其用事諸人,人心離叛,無固志,遂與提督施公(烺) 先後進討。康熙二十二年六月十六日,戰於澎湖;二十二日再戰,王師克捷, 已入天妃澳。臺灣門戶既失,鄭眾危懼,欲遷避呂宋,不果;蓋其下皆謂 克塽孺子,不足謀國事,而歸誠反正,猶冀得天朝爵賞,遂定計降。有旨原其罪。 十月,克塽率其族屬朝京師,封漢軍公。寧靖王朱(術桂)先依鄭成功, 歷三世,近四十年;聞克塽降,為詩曰:『流離來海外,止賸幾莖髮;如今事畢 矣,祖宗應容納』!與其二嬪同自經以殉。魯王世子輩安插河南。臺灣遂平。 嗟乎!鄭成功年甫弱冠,招集新附,草創廈門,復奪臺灣,繼以童孺守位, 三世相承,卒能保有其地,以歸順朝廷,成功之才略信有過人者。況乎夜郎 自大,生殺獨操,而仍奉永曆之紀元,恪守將軍之位號,奉明寧靖王、 魯王世子禮不衰,皆其美行;以視吳、耿背恩僭號者,相去不有間耶? 臺灣既入版圖,改偽承天府為臺灣府,偽天興州為諸羅縣,分偽萬年州為 臺灣、鳳山二縣;縣各一令一尉,臺灣縣附郭首邑,增置一丞,更設臺廈 道轄焉。海外初闢,規模草創,城郭未築,官署悉無垣牆,惟編竹為籬, 蔽內外而已。臺灣縣節府治,東西廣五十里,南北袤四十里,鎮、道、府、 廳暨諸、鳳兩縣衙署、學宮,市廛及內地寄籍民居多隸焉。而澎湖諸島澳, 亦在所轄。鳳山縣居其南,自臺灣縣分界而南,至沙馬磯大海,袤四百九十 五里;自海岸而東,至山下打狗仔港,廣五十里。攝土番十一社,曰: 上淡水、下淡水、力力、茄藤、放索、大澤磯、啞猴、答樓,以上平地八社, 輸賦應徭;曰:茄洛堂、浪嶠、卑馬南,三社在山中,惟輸賦,不應徭; 另有傀儡番並山中野番,皆無社名。諸羅縣居其北,攝番社新港、加溜灣 (音葛剌灣)、毆王(音蕭郎)、麻豆等二百八社外,另有蛤仔難(音葛雅蘭) 等三十六社,雖非野番,不輸貢賦,難以悉載。自臺灣縣分界而北, 至西北隅,轉至東北隅大雞籠社大海,袤二千三百十五里。三縣所隸, 不過山外沿海平地,其深山野番,不與外通,外人不能入,無由知其概。 總論臺郡平地形勢,東阻高山,西臨大海,自海至山,廣四五十里; 自鳳山縣南沙馬磯至諸羅縣北雞籠山,袤二千八百四十五里,此其大略也。 雖沿海沙岸,實平壤沃土,但土性輕浮,風起揚塵蔽天,雨過流為深坑。 然宜種植,凡樹萟芃芃郁茂,稻米有粒大如豆者;露重如雨,旱歲過夜轉潤, 又近海無潦患,秋成納稼倍內地;更產糖蔗雜糧,有種必穫。故內地窮黎, 襁至輻輳,樂出於其市。惜蕪地尚多,求闢土千一耳。五穀俱備,尤多植 芝麻。果實有番檨(土音讀作蒜,查無此字,或雲當從㰄)、黃梨、香果、 波羅蜜,皆內地所無,過海即敗苦,不得入內地。荔枝酸澀,龍眼似佳, 然皆絕少,市中不可多見;楊梅如豆,桃李澀口,不足珍。獨番石榴 不種自生,臭不可耐,而味又甚惡;蕉子冷沁心脾,膩齒不快,又產於冬月, 尤見違時。惟香果差勝。檳榔形似羊棗,力薄,殊遜滇粵;椰子結實如毬, 破之可為器,有椰酒盈椀,肉附殼而生,用與檳榔共嚼。余愛二樹, 獨榦無枝,亭亭自立,葉如鳳羽,偃蓋婆娑;窗前植之,差亦不惡。 瓜蔬悉同內地,無有增損。西瓜盛於冬月,臺人元旦多啖之;皮薄瓤紅, 可與常州並驅,但遜泉之傅霖耳。郡治無樹,惟綠竹最多,一望猗猗, 不減渭濱淇澳之盛。惜其僅止一種,輒數十竿為一叢,生筍不出叢外, 每於叢中排比而出。枝大於竿,又節節生刺,人入竹下,往往牽髮毀肌,莫不 委頓;世有嵇、阮,難共入林。花之木本者曰番花,葉似枇杷,枝必三叉, 臃腫而脆;開花五瓣,色白,近心漸黃,香如梔子,宜於風過暫得之, 近則惡矣;自四月至十月開不絕,冬寒併葉俱盡。草花有番茉莉,一花十瓣, 望之似菊;既放可得三日觀,不似內地茉莉暮開晨落,然香亦少遜焉。 街市以一折三,中通車行,傍列市肆,佛仿京師大街,低隘陋耳。婦人弓足 絕少,間有纏三尺布者,便稱麗都;故凡陌上相逢,於裙下不足流盼也。 市中用財,獨尚番錢。番錢者,紅毛人所鑄銀幣也。圓長不一式,上印番花, 實則九三色。臺人非此不用,有以庫帑予之,每蹙額不顧,以非所習見耳。 地不產馬,內地馬又艱於渡海,雖設兵萬人,營馬不滿千匹;文武各官乘輿, 自正印以下,出入皆騎黃犢。市中挽運百物,民間男婦遠適者,皆用犢車。故 比戶多畜牛;又多蔗梢,牛嗜食之,不費芻菽。曩鄭氏之治臺,立法尚嚴,犯 姦與盜賊,不赦;有盜伐民間一竹者,立斬之。民承峻法後,猶有道不拾遺之 風:市肆百貨露積,委之門外,無敢竊者。天氣四時皆夏,恆苦鬱蒸,遇雨成 秋,比歲漸寒,冬月有裘衣者,至霜霰則無有也。海上颶風時作,然歲有常 期;或逾期、或不及期,所爽不過三日,別有風期可考。颶之尤甚者曰颱,颱 無定期,必與大雨同至,必拔木壞垣,飄瓦裂石,久而愈勁;舟雖泊澳,常至 齏粉,海上人甚畏之,惟得雷聲即止。占颱風者,每視風向反常為戒:如夏月 應南而反北,秋冬與春應北而反南(三月二十三日馬祖暴後便應南風,白露後 至三月皆應北風;惟七月北風多主颱),旋必成颱,幸其至也漸,人得早避之。 又曰:風四面皆至曰颱。不知颱雖暴,無四方齊至理;譬如北風颱,必轉而 東,東而南,南又轉西,或一二日、或三五七日,不四面傳遍不止;是四面 遞至,非四面並至也。颶驟而禍輕,颱緩而禍久且烈。又春風畏始,冬風 慮終;又六月聞雷則風止,七月聞雷則風至;又非常之風,常在七月。而海中 鱗介諸物游翔水面,亦風兆也。此臺郡之大略也。為賦竹枝詞,以紀其概。 鐵板沙連到七鯤,鯤身激浪海天昏;任教巨舶難輕犯,天險生成鹿耳門。 安平城旁,自一鯤身至七鯤身,皆沙崗也。鐵板沙性重,得水則堅如石, 舟泊沙上,風浪掀擲,舟底立碎矣。牛車千百,日行水中,曾無軌跡, 其堅可知。雪浪排空小艇橫,紅毛城勢獨崢嶸;渡頭更上牛車坐,日暮還過赤 嵌城。渡船皆小艇也。紅毛城即今安平城,渡船往來絡繹,皆在安平、赤嵌二 城之間。沙堅水淺,雖小艇不能達岸,必藉牛車挽之。赤嵌城在郡治海岸, 與安平城對峙。編竹為垣取次增,衙齋清暇冷如冰;風聲撼醒三更夢, 帳底斜穿遠浦燈。官署皆無垣牆,惟插竹為籬,比歲增易。無牆垣為蔽, 遠浦燈光,直入寢室。耳畔時聞軋軋聲,牛車乘月夜中行;夢迴幾度疑吹角, 更有床頭蝘蜓鳴。牛車挽運百物,月夜車聲不絕。蝘蜓音偃忝,即守宮也; 臺灣守宮善鳴,聲似黃雀。蔗田萬頃碧萋萋,一望龍蔥路欲迷;絪載都來 糖廍裡,只留蔗葉餉群犀。取蔗漿煎糖處曰糖廍。蔗梢飼牛,牛嗜食之, 青蔥大葉似枇杷,臃腫枝頭著白花;看到花心黃欲滴,家家一樹倚籬笆。 番花葉似枇杷,花開五瓣,白色,木本,臃腫,枝必三義;花心漸作深黃色, 攀折累三日不殘。香如梔子,病其過烈;風度花香,頗覺濃郁。芭蕉幾樹 植牆陰,蕉子纍纍冷沁心;不為臨池堪代紙,因貪結子種成林。蕉實形似肥 皂,排偶而生,一枝滿百,可重十觔;性極寒。凡蒔蕉園林,綠陰深沉, 蔭蔽數畝。獨榦凌霄不作枝,垂垂青子任紛披;摘來還共蔞根嚼,贏得唇間 盡染脂。檳榔無旁枝,亭亭直上,遍體龍鱗,葉同鳳尾。子形似羊棗, 土人稱為棗子檳榔。食檳榔者必與簍根、蠣灰同嚼,否則澀口且辣。 食後口唇盡紅。惡竹參差透碧霄,叢生如棘任風搖;那堪節節都生刺, 把臂林間血已漂。竹根迄篠以至於葉,節節皆生倒刺,往往牽髮毀肌。 察之皆根之萌也,故此竹植地即生。不是哀梨不是楂,酸香滋味似甜瓜; 枇杷不見黃金果,番檨何勞向客誇?番檨生大樹上,形如茄子;夏至始熟, 臺人甚珍之。肩披鬢髮耳垂璫,粉面紅唇似女郎;馬祖宮前鑼鼓鬧, 侏離唱出下南腔。梨園子弟,垂髻穴耳,傅粉施朱,儼然女子。土人稱天妃 神曰馬祖,稱廟曰宮;天妃廟近赤嵌城,海舶多於此演戲酬願。閩以漳泉 二郡為下南,下南腔亦閩中聲律之一種也。臺灣西向俯汪洋,東望層巒 千里長;一片平沙皆沃土,誰為長慮教耕桑?臺郡之西,俯臨大海, 實與中國閩廣之間相對。東則層巒疊嶂,為野番巢居穴處之窟,鳥道蠶叢, 人不能入;其中景物,不可得而知也。山外平壤皆肥饒沃土,惜居人少, 土番又不務稼穡,當春計食而耕,都無蓄積,地力未盡,求闢土千一耳。 卷中 余以採硫來居臺郡兩閱月,為購布,購油,購糖,鑄大鑊,冶刀斧、 鋤、杓,規大小木桶,製秤、尺、斗、斛,種種畢備。布以給番人易硫土; 油與大鑊,所以煉硫;糖給工匠頻飲併浴體,以辟硫毒;鋤平土築基; 刀斧伐薪薙草;杓出硫於鑊;小桶凝硫,大桶貯水;秤、尺、斗、斛, 以衡量諸物。又購脫粟、鹽豉、筐、釜、@、箸等,率為百人具。計費九百 八十金,買一巨舶載之。入資什七,覺舟重不任載,心竊疑焉。遂止弗入, 更買一舶,為載所餘,費半前舶。或曰:『舟有大小,受載有量,今頗未盡量, 何徒費為』?余曰:『吾忽心動,方欲使兩舶中分之,匪直載所餘也』。 言者匿笑去。王君意圖便安,不欲更張,中分之志遂寢。余事既畢, 擬旦日登舶,郡守靳公(名治揚,號斗南)、司馬齊公(名體物,號誠庵) 咸謂余曰:『君不聞雞籠、淡水水土之惡乎?人至即病,病輒死。凡隸役聞雞 籠、淡水之遣,皆欷歔悲嘆,如使絕域;水師例春秋更戍,以得生還為幸。 彼健兒役隸且然,君奚堪此?曷令僕役往,君留郡城遙制之何如』?余曰: 『茲行計役工匠、番人數百人,又逼近野番,不有以靜鎮之,恐多事, 貽地方憂;況既受人託,又何惜一往』?明日,參軍尹君(名復)、鳳山尉戚君 (嘉燦)皆吾鄉人,來止余行,曰:『客秋朱友龍謀不軌,總戎王公命某弁 率百人戍下淡水,纔兩月,無一人還者;下淡水且然,況雞籠、淡水遠惡 尤甚者乎』?又曰:『縣役某與其侶四人往,僅以身返。此皆近事,君胡不自愛 耶』?余笑曰:『吾生有命,蒼蒼者主之,水土其如余何!余計之審矣, 不可以不往』。尹君與守戎沈君(長祿)為余作丸散藥及解毒辟癘諸方為贈, 珍重再三。又吾鄉黃巖顧君(敷公)隨父南金先生任江南糧儲道,住京口; 順治己亥被掠留臺,居臺久,習知山海夷險。與余一見如故交,亦來謂余曰: 『水土害人,鬼物為厲,有識者所不計;若夫去險就夷,居安避危, 胡可不審?君亦知海道乎?凡海舶不畏大洋,而畏近山;不患深水, 而患淺水。舟本浮物,有桅御風,有舵辟水,雖大風浪未易沉覆;若觸礁則 沉,膠沙必碎,其敗立見。今自郡治至雞籠,舟依沙瀨間行,遭風無港可泊, 險倍大洋,何如陸行為得乎?君將偕我往;若必從舟,則我請辭』。余曰: 『謹受教』。王君圖便安,卒登舟,挽之不可。余與顧君率平頭數輩,乘笨車 就道;隨行給役者凡五十五人,時四月初七日也。經過番社即易車, 車以黃犢駕,而令土番為御。是日過大洲溪,歷新港社、嘉溜(音葛辣) 灣社、麻豆社,雖皆番居,然嘉木陰森,屋宇完潔,不減內地村落。余曰: 『孰謂番人陋?人言甯足信乎』?顧君曰:『新港、嘉溜灣、毆王、麻豆, 於偽鄭時為四大社,令其子弟能就鄉塾讀書者,蠲其徭役,以漸化之。 四社番亦知勤稼穡,務蓄積,比戶殷富;又近郡治,習見城市居處禮讓, 故其俗於諸社為優。毆王近海,不當孔道,尤富庶,惜不得見,過此恐日 遠日陋矣』。然觀四社男婦,被髮不褌,猶沿舊習,殊可鄙。自麻豆易車, 應至倒咯(音洛)國;番人不解從者語,見營官中途為余治餐,意余必適彼, 為御至佳里興,至則二鼓矣。問孰為宿處,則營中也。無已,乃之守戎趙君 所。趙君名振,天雄人,孝廉,與余友侯君敬止善,談次及天雄、平干、鄴 下、汧臺諸故人,皆能了了,蓋皆三十年事矣。聞漏下三十刻,乃就寢。 初八日,仍馭原車,返麻豆社,易車渡茅港尾溪、鐵線橋溪。至倒咯 國社,日已近暮。憶王君此時,乘南風,駕巨艦,瞬息千里,余至則 後矣;乃乘夜渡急水、八掌等溪。遲明,抵諸羅山,倦極坐憩;天既 曙,復渡牛跳溪,過打貓社、山疊溪、他里務社,至柴里社宿。計車 行兩晝夜矣。車中倦眸欲瞑,每至深崖陡塹,輒復驚覺。所見御車番兒, 皆遍體雕青:背為鳥翼盤旋;自肩至臍,斜銳為網罟纓絡;兩臂各為 人首形,斷脰猙獰可怖。自腕至肘,纍鐵鐲數十道;又有為大耳者。 初十日,渡虎尾溪、西螺溪,溪廣二三里,平沙可行,車過無軌跡, 亦似鐵板沙,但沙水皆黑色,以臺灣山色皆黑土故也。又三十里,至東 螺溪,與西螺溪廣正等,而水深湍急過之。轅中牛懼溺,臥而浮,番兒 十餘,扶輪以濟,不溺者幾矣。既濟,值雨,馳三十里,至大武郡社 ,宿。是日所見番人,文身者愈多,耳輪漸大如@,獨於髮加束,或 為三叉,或為雙角;又以雞尾三羽為一翿,插髻上,迎風招颭,以為 觀美。又有三少婦共舂,中一婦頗有姿;然裸體對客,而意色泰然。 十一日,行三十里,至半線社,居停主人揖客頗恭,具饌尤腆。云:『過此多石路, 車行不易,曷少憩節勞』!遂留宿焉。自諸羅山至此,所見番婦多白晰妍好者。 十二日,過啞束社,至大肚社,一路大小積石,車行其上,終日蹭蹬殊困;加以林 莽荒穢,宿草沒肩,與半線以下如各天。至溪澗之多,尤不勝記。番人狀貌轉陋。 十三日,渡大溪,過沙轆社,至牛罵社,社屋隘甚,值雨過,殊溼。 假番室牖外設榻,緣梯而登,雖無門闌,喜其高潔。十四日,陰霾, 大雨,不得行;午後雨止,聞海吼聲,如錢塘怒潮,至夜不息。社人云: 『海吼是雨徵也』。十五日、十六日皆雨,前溪新水方怒,不敢進。 十七日,小霽。余榻面山,霾霧障之凡五日,苦不得一睹其麓;忽見開朗, 殊快。念野番跳梁,茲山實為藩籬,不知山後深山,當作何狀,將登麓望之。 社人謂:『野番常伏林中射鹿,見人則矢鏃立至,慎毋往』!余頷之; 乃策杖披荊拂草而登。既陟巔,荊莽樛結,不可置足。林木如蝟毛, 聯枝累葉,陰翳晝暝,仰視太虛,如井底窺天,時見一規而已。雖前山 近在目前,而密樹障之,都不得見。惟有野猿跳躑上下,向人作聲, 若老人欬;又有老猿,如五尺童子,箕踞怒視。風度林杪,作簌簌聲, 肌骨欲寒。瀑流潺潺,尋之不得;而修蛇乃出踝下,覺心怖,遂返。 十八日,又大雨,嵐氣盛甚,衣潤如洗;階前泥濘,足不得展;徘徊 悵結。賦詩曰:『番舍如蟻垤,茅簷壓路低;嵐風侵短牗,海霧襲重 綈;避雨從留屐,支床更著梯;前溪新漲阻,徙倚欲雞棲』。頃之, 有番婦至,蕡首瘠體,貌不類人,舉手指畫,若有所欲,余探得食物 與之;社人望見,亟麾之去,曰『此婦有術,善祟人,毋令得近也』! 十九日,晨起,忽霽,差爽人意,計二三日水落可涉,則前路匪遙矣。比午, 方飯,南風颼颼起萍末,衣潤頓乾,覺快甚。飯罷,風漸橫,草木披靡,念兩 海舶當已至;不然殆矣,王君奈何!意甚憂之。薄暮,有人自海濱來,云: 『見二巨舟,乘風而北』。益駭,披襟坐大風中,至三鼓,勉就枕,然竟夜無寐。 二十日,辰刻風定;無從得二舶耗。顧君慰余曰:『君無憂二舶也!彼非南風 不行,既久無南風,昨風又橫,無行理,何憂為』?土官使麻答為余問水 (麻答是番兒之矯健者;問水,探水之深淺也),曰:『水急且高,未可涉也』。 二十三日,余念二舶,遂叱馭行。行二十里,至溪所,眾番為戴行李, 沒水而過;復扶余車浮渡,雖僅免沒溺,實濡水而出也。渡凡三溪, 率相越不半里;已渡過大甲社(即崩山)、雙寮社,至宛里社宿。自渡 溪後,御車番人貌益陋,變胸背雕青為豹文。無男女,悉翦髮覆額, 作頭陀狀,規樹皮為冠;番婦穴耳為五孔,以海螺文貝嵌入為飾,捷走先男子。 經過番社皆空室,求一勺水不可得;得見一人,輒喜。自此以北,大概略同。 二十四日,過吞霄社、新港仔社,至後坂社。甫下車,王君敝衣跣足 在焉。泣告曰:『舟碎身溺,幸復相見』。余驚問所以不死狀,曰: 自初三日登舟,泊鹿耳門,候南風不得。十八日,有微風,遂行。行一 日,舵與帆不洽,斜入黑水者再;船首自俯,欲入水底,而巨浪又夾之; 舟人大恐,向馬祖求庇,苦無港可泊,終夜徬徨。十九日,猶如昨。 午後南風大至,行甚駛,喜謂天助;頃之,風厲甚,因舵劣,不任使, 強持之,舵牙折者三。風中蝴蝶千百,繞船飛舞,舟人以為不祥。申刻, 風稍緩,有黑色小鳥數百集船上,驅之不去,舟人咸謂大凶;焚楮鏹祝之, 又不去,至以手撫之,終不去,反呷呷向人,若相告語者。少間,風益甚, 舟欲沉,向馬祖卜筄,求船安,不許;求免死,得吉;自棄舟中物三之一。 至二更,遙見小港,眾喜倖生,以沙淺不能入,姑就港口下椗。舟人困頓, 各就寢。五鼓失椗,船無繫,復出大洋,浪擊舵折,鷁首又裂,知不可為, 舟師告曰:『惟有划水仙,求登岸免死耳』!划水仙者,眾口齊作鉦鼓聲, 人各挾一匕箸,虛作棹船勢,如午日競渡狀;凡洋中危急,不得近岸, 則為之。船果近岸,浪拍即碎;王君與舟人皆入水,幸善泅,得不溺; 乘浪勢推擁登岸,顧視原舟,惟斷板折木,相擊白浪中耳。余亟問:『後舶安在』? 王君曰:『彼舟利步,自十八日已先余舟數百里矣,尚何能知之』?余聞王君言, 意欲回車;復自計曰:『驅馳千餘里,何惜三數日程,不往探後舶確耗乎』? 二十五日,與王君共一車,兼程進。越高嶺三,至中港社,午餐。見門外一牛 甚腯,囚木籠中,俯首跼足,體不得展;社人謂:『是野牛初就靮,以此馴之』。 又云:『前路竹塹、南嵌,山中野牛甚多,每出千百為群,土番能生致之, 候其馴,用之。今郡中挽車牛,強半是也』。飯竟,復登車,道由海壖橫涉 小港,迂迴沙岸間三十餘里;王君指折舵碎舟脫死登岸處甚悉,視沙間斷木 廢板,尚有存者,惟相對浩歎而已。又浮一深溪,至竹塹社,宿。溪水湍急, 役夫有溺而復起者。奴子車後浴水而出,比至,無復人色。有人自雞籠、淡水 來者,言二十日風後,有一舶至;余聞之甚喜,謂王君曰:『沉舟諸物,固無 有理,然大鑊與冶器,必沉沙中,似可覓也;且一舟猶在,無中輟理,君毋惜 海濱一行』!遂留王君竹塹社,余復馳至南嵌社宿。自竹塹迄南嵌八九十里, 不見一人一屋,求一樹就蔭不得;掘土窟,置瓦釜為炊,就烈日下,以澗水沃 之,各飽一餐。途中遇麋、鹿、麏、麚逐隊行,甚夥,驅獫猲獟獲三鹿。既至 南嵌,入深箐中,披荊度莽,冠履俱敗:直狐狢之窟,非人類所宜至也。 二十七日,自南嵌越小嶺,在海岸間行,巨浪卷雪拍轅下,衣袂為濕。 至八里分社,有江水為阻,即淡水也。深山溪澗,皆由此出。水廣五六里, 港口中流有雞心嶕,海舶畏之;潮汐去來,淺深莫定。余停車欲渡,有飛蟲 億萬,如急雨驟至,衣不能蔽,遍體悉損。視沙間一舟,獨木鏤成,可容 兩人對坐,各操一楫以渡;名曰莽葛,蓋番舟也。既渡,有淡水社長張大, 罄折沙際迎,遂留止其家。視後舶果已至;當風橫時,棄擲數物,餘皆獲全; 然不過前舶之餘,計所亡已什八矣。爰命張大為余治屋,余留居五日以待。 五月朔,張大來告屋成。初二日,余與顧君暨僕役平頭共乘海舶,由 淡水港入。前望兩山夾峙處,曰甘答門,水道甚隘,入門,水忽廣, 漶為大湖,渺無涯涘。行十許里,有茅廬凡二十間,皆依山面湖,在茂草中, 張大為余築也。余為區畫,以設大鑊者二,貯硫土者六,處夫役者七, 為庖者二,余與王君、顧君暨臧獲共處者三;為就地勢,故錯綜散置, 向背不一。張大云:『此地高山四繞,周廣百余里,中為平原,惟一溪流水, 麻少翁等三社,緣溪而居。甲戌四月,地動不休,番人怖恐,相率徙去, 俄陷為巨浸,距今不三年耳』。指淺處猶有竹樹梢出水面,三社舊址可識。 滄桑之變,信有之乎?既坐定,聞飛湍倒峽聲,有崩崖轉石之勢; 意必有千尋瀑流,近在左右,晝夜轟耳不輟;覓之累日,不可得見。 初五日,王君從海岸馳至,果得冶器七十二事及大鑊一具,余其問之水濱矣。 又數日,各社土官悉至;曰八里分、麻少翁、內北頭、外北頭、雞洲山、 大洞山、小雞籠、大雞籠、金包里、南港、瓦烈、擺折、里末、武溜灣、 雷里、荖厘、繡朗、巴琅泵(音畔)、奇武卒、答答攸、里族、房仔嶼、 麻里折口等二十三社,皆淡水總社統之,其土官有正副頭目之分。飲以薄酒, 食以糖丸,又各給布丈余,皆忻然去。復給布眾番易土,凡布七尺, 易土一筐,衡之可得二百七八十觔。明日,眾番男婦相繼以莽葛載土至, 土黃黑不一,色質沉重,有光芒,以指撚之,颯颯有聲者佳,反是則劣。 煉法:槌碎如粉,日曝極乾,鑊中先入油十余觔,徐入乾土,以大竹為 十字架,兩人各持一端攬之;土中硫得油自出,油土相融,又頻頻加土加油, 至於滿鑊;約入土八九百觔,油則視土之優劣為多寡。工人時時以鐵鍬取汁, 瀝突旁察之,過則添土,不及則增油。油過不及,皆能損硫;土既優, 用油適當,一鑊可得淨硫四五百觔,否或一二百觔乃至數十觔。關鍵處 雖在油,而工人視火候,似亦有微權也。余問番人硫土所產,指茅廬 後山麓間。明日拉顧君偕往,坐莽葛中,命二番兒操楫。緣溪入,溪盡為 內北社,呼社人為導。轉東行半里,入茅棘中,勁茅高丈余,兩手排之, 側體而入,炎日薄茅上,暑氣蒸欝,覺悶甚。草下一徑,逶迤僅容蛇伏。 顧君濟勝有具,與導人行,輒前;余與從者後,五步之內,已各不相見, 慮或相失,各聽呼應聲為近遠。約行二三里,渡兩小溪,皆而涉。復入深林 中,林木蓊翳,大小不可辨名;老藤纏結其上,若虯龍環繞,風過葉落, 有大如掌者。又有巨木裂土而出,兩葉始蘗,已大十圍,導人謂楠也。 楠之始生,已具全體,歲久則堅,終不加大,蓋與竹筍同理。樹上禽聲萬態, 耳所創聞,目不得視其狀。涼風襲肌,幾忘炎暑。復越峻坡五六,值大溪, 溪廣四五丈,水潺潺巉石間,與石皆作藍靛色,導人謂此水源出硫穴下, 是沸泉也;余以一指試之,猶熱甚,扶杖躡巉石渡。更進二三里,林木忽斷, 始見前山。又陟一小巔,覺履底漸熱,視草色萎黃無生意;望前山半麓, 白氣縷縷,如山雲乍吐,搖曳青嶂間,導人指曰:『是硫穴也』。風至, 硫氣甚惡。更進半里,草木不生,地熱如炙;左右兩山多巨石,為硫氣所觸, 剝蝕如粉。白氣五十余道,皆從地底騰激而出,沸珠噴濺,出地尺許。 余攬衣即穴旁視之,聞怒雷震蕩地底,而驚濤與沸鼎聲間之;地復岌岌欲動, 令人心悸。蓋周廣百畝間,實一大沸鑊,余身乃行鑊蓋上,所賴以不陷者, 熱氣鼓之耳。右旁巨石間,一穴獨大,思巨石無陷理,乃即石上俯瞰之, 穴中毒焰撲人,目不能視,觸腦欲裂,急退百步乃止。左旁一溪,聲如倒峽, 即沸泉所出源也。還就深林小憩,循舊路返。衣染硫氣,累日不散。始悟 向之倒峽崩崖,轟耳不輟者,是硫穴沸聲也。為賦二律:『造化鍾奇構, 崇岡湧沸泉;怒雷翻地軸,毒霧撼崖巔;碧澗松長槁,丹山草欲燃; 蓬瀛遙在望,煮石迓神仙』。『五月行人少,西陲有火山;孰知泉沸處? 遂使履行難;落粉銷危石,流黃漬篆斑;轟聲傳十里,不是響潺湲』。 人言此地水土害人,染疾多殆,臺郡諸公言之審矣。余初未之信;居無何, 奴子病矣,諸給役者十且病九矣!乃至庖人亦病,執爨無人。而王君 水底余生,復染危痢,水漿不入;晝夜七八十行,漸至流溢枕席間。 余一榻之側,病者環繞,但聞呻吟與寒噤聲,若唱和不輟,恨無越人術, 安得遍藥之?乃以一舶悉歸之。而顧君又以他事赴省,獨余不可去, 與一病僕俱。時時督番兒,課匠役,往來烈日下與深草茂林中,日不少休。 而一二社棍,又百計暗撓之。余既不識侏離語,與人言,人又不解余旨, 口耳並廢,直同聾啞。是余一身,且有兼病,尚得以不病傲人乎?以余觀之: 山川不殊中土,鬼物未見有徵,然而人輒病者,特以深山大澤尚在洪荒, 草木晦蔽,人跡無幾,瘴癘所積,入人肺腸,故人至即病,千人一症, 理固然也。余體素弱,十年善病,恆以參朮代饔飧,猶苦不支。自臺郡至此, 計觸暑行二十日,兼馳凡四晝夜,涉大小溪九十有六;若深溝巨壑,峻坡陡 崖,馳下如覆、仰上如削者,蓋不可勝數。平原一望,罔非茂草,勁者覆頂, 弱者蔽肩,車馳其中,如在地底,草梢割面破項,蚊蚋蒼蠅吮咂肌體, 如飢鷹餓虎,撲逐不去。炎日又曝之,項背欲裂,已極人世勞瘁。既至, 草廬中,四壁陶瓦,悉茅為之,四面風入如射,臥恆見天。青草上榻, 旋拔旋生。雨至,室中如洪流,一雨過,屐而升榻者凡十日。蟬琴蚓笛, 時沸榻下,階前潮汐時至。出戶,草沒肩,古木樛結,不可名狀;惡竹叢生 其間,咫尺不能見物。蝮蛇癭項者,夜閣閣鳴枕畔,有時鼾聲如牛, 力可吞鹿;小蛇逐人,疾如飛矢,戶閾之外,暮不敢出。海風怒號, 萬籟響答,林谷震撼,屋榻欲傾。夜半猿啼,如鬼哭聲,一燈熒熒, 與鬼病垂危者聯榻共處。以視子卿絕塞、信國沮洳為何如?柳子厚云: 『播州非人所居』;令子厚知有此境,視播州天上矣。余至之夜,有漁人 結寮港南者,與余居遙隔一水,纍布藉枕而臥;夜半,矢從外入,穿枕上 布二十八劄,幸不傷腦,猶在夢鄉,而一矢又入,遂貫其臂,同侶逐賊不獲, 視其矢,則土番射鹿物也。又有社人被殺於途,皆數日間事。余草廬在無人 之境,時見茂草中有番人出入,莫察所從來;深夜勁矢,寧無戒心?若此地 者,蓋在在危機,刻刻死亡矣!余身非金石,力不勝鼷鼠;況以斑白之年, 高堂有母,寧遂忘臨履之戒,以久處危亡之地乎?良以剛毅之性,有進無退, 謀人謀己,務期克濟;況生平歷險遭艱,奚止一事?今老矣!肯以一念之恧, 事半中輟,嗒然遂失其故我耶?且病者去矣,而不病者又以畏病畏危去,將誰 與竣所事?與其今日早去,何如前日不來?疇其能余迫?今既來矣,遑惜其他? 心志素定,神氣自正,匪直山鬼降心,二豎且遠避百舍。且余固以嗜遊來, 余嘗謂:『探奇攬勝者,毋畏惡趣;遊不險不奇,趣不惡不快』。太白登華山, 恨不攜謝朓驚人句,搔首問天;昌黎登華嶽絕頂,痛哭投書與家人別,華陰令 百計取之,迺得下,皆以嗜遊癖者也。余雖不敢仰希前哲,然茲行所歷,當令昌黎、 太白增羨。況蓬萊在望,弱水可掬,藉令祖龍、漢武聞之,不將寨裳恐後乎? (以下有「雖然驕語誇人,豈情也哉」?十字,疑為後人評詞,誤入正文) 卷下 余既來海外,又窮幽極遠,身歷無人之域;其於全臺山川夷險、形勢扼塞、 番俗民情,不啻戶至而足履焉。可不為一言,俾留意斯世斯民者知之? 間嘗於清旦策杖,薄暮操舟,周覽探討而得其概焉。蓋淡水者,臺灣西北隅 盡處也。高山嵯峨,俯瞰大海,與閩之福州府閩安鎮東西相望,隔海遙峙, 計水程七八更耳。山下臨江陴𨺙為淡水城,亦前紅毛為守港口設者。 鄭氏既有臺灣,以淡水近內地,仍設重兵戍守。本朝內外一家,不虞他寇, 防守漸弛;惟安平水師,撥兵十人,率半歲一更,而水師弁卒,又視為畏途, 扁舟至社,信宿即返。十五六年城中無戍兵之跡矣!歲久荒蕪,入者輒死, 為鬼為毒,人無由知。汛守之設,特虛名耳!緣海東行百六七十里, 至雞籠山,是臺之東北隅。有小山圓銳,去水面十里,孤懸海中;以雞籠名 者,肖其形也。踰此而南,則為臺灣之東面。東西之間,高山阻絕, 又為野番盤踞,勢不可通。而雞籠山下,實近弱水,秋毫不載,舟至即沉; 或云:名為「萬水朝東」,水勢傾瀉,捲入地底,滔滔東逝,流而不返。 二說未詳孰是?從無操舟往試,歸告於人者。海舟相戒不敢出其下,故於水道 亦不能通,西不知東,猶東之不知西也。止就西言:自淡水港而南, 迄於郡治,尚有南嵌、竹塹、後龍、鹿仔(音雅)、二林、臺仔穵、 莽港等七港;自郡治而南至鳳山縣沙馬磯,亦有蠔港、打狗仔、下淡水等 三港。山中澗水所出,雖沙堅水淺,難容巨舶,每當潮汐,亦可進舟。 設有寇盜伺隙,或紅毛思復故物,以數舶虛攻鹿耳牽制水陸,而出偏師掩襲 各港,踞土列營,首尾夾擊,則我兵守禦勢分,三面受敵矣!今獨重鹿耳、 安平之守,而於各港一切泄視,非計之得也。又郡治各邑,悉無城郭, 戰守無憑,當事者亦屢圖之,以去山遠,無水道,不可得石,往往中輟。 近有建議植竹為城者,以竹種獨異內地,叢生合沓,間不容髮,而旁枝橫勁, 篠節皆刺,若夾植二三重,雖狐鼠不敢穴,矢砲不能穿,其勢反堅於石, 而又無舂築之勞。但令比戶各植數竿,不煩民力,而民易從,期月之間, 可使平地有金湯之壯。其說可採,所當亟為舉行,不待再計者矣。至若諸羅、 鳳山二邑,各有疆域,舍己邑不居,而寄居郡治臺邑之地,若僑寓然; 似宜各度地勢,植竹建城,不獨撫字為便,而犄角互援之勢亦成矣。 近者海內恆苦貧,斗米百錢,民多飢色;賈人責負聲,日沸闤闠。臺郡獨 似富庶,市中百物價倍,購者無吝色,貿易之肆,期約不愆;傭人計日百錢, 趑趄不應召;屠兒牧豎,腰纏常數十金,每遇摴蒱,浪棄一擲間,意不甚惜; 余頗怪之。因留臺久,始得其故。茲地自鄭氏割踞至今,民間積貯有年矣。 王師克臺,倒戈歸誠,不煩攻圍,不經焚掠。蕩平之後,設鎮兵三千人, 協兵南北二路二千人,安平水師三千人,澎湖水師二千人;三邑丁賦, 就地放給外,藩庫又歲發十四萬有奇,以給兵餉。兵丁一人,歲得十二兩, 以之充膳、製衣履,猶慮不敷,甯有余蓄?蓋皆散在民間矣。又植蔗為糖, 歲產五六十萬,商舶購之,以貿日本、呂宋諸國。又米、榖、麻、豆、鹿皮、 鹿脯,運之四方者十余萬。是臺灣一區,歲入賦七八十萬,自康熙癸亥削平 以來,十五六年間,總計一千二三百萬。入多而出少,較之內地州縣錢糧, 悉輸大部,有出無入者,安得不彼日瘠而此日腴乎?又臺土宜稼,收穫倍蓰, 治田千畝,給數萬人,日食有余。為賈販通外洋諸國,則財用不匱。民富土 沃,又當四達之海;即今內地民人,襁至而輻輳,皆願出於其市。萑苻陸梁, 孰不欲掩而有之,有如曩昔鄭氏者,乘間覬覦,實足為患,而內地沿海, 且無寧宇矣!議者謂:『海外丸泥,不足為中國加廣;裸體文身之番, 不足與共守;日費天府金錢於無益,不若徙其人而空其地』。不知我棄之, 人必取之;我能徙之,彼不難移民以實之。噫!計亦疏矣!我朝自鄭氏竊 踞以來,海䑸飄忽,在在入寇,江、浙、閩、粵沿海郡縣,蹂躪幾遍, 兵戈垂四十年不息,至沿海萬里遷界為清野計,屢煩大兵迄不能滅者, 以有臺灣為之基也。今既有其地,而謂當棄之,則琉球、日本、紅毛、安南、 東京諸國必踞之矣!琉球最稱小弱,素不為中國患,即有之,亦不能長守 為中國藩籬;安南、東京,構兵不解,無暇遠圖;日本最大,獨稱強國; 紅毛狡黠,尤精戰艘火器,又為大西洋附庸;西洋人務為遠圖,用心堅深, 不可測識,幸去中國遠,窺伺不易;使有臺灣置足,則朝去暮來,擾害可勝言 哉?鄭鹽不遠,何異自壞藩籬,以資寇巢?是智者所不為也!犄角三城, 搤隘各港,堅守鹿耳,外此無良圖矣!然守臺灣,尤宜以澎湖為重。澎湖者, 臺灣之門戶也;三十六島,絕無暗礁,在在可以泊船。故欲犯臺灣,必先攻 澎湖;澎湖既得,進戰退守無不宜。欲守臺灣,亦先守澎湖;澎湖堅壁, 敵舟漂蕩無泊,即坐而自困矣。疇昔鄭氏,尚與王師鏖戰,澎湖既失, 遂至窮蹙,蓋可鹽也!乃臺民居恆思亂,每聚不軌之徒,稱號鑄印、散扎 設者,歲不乏人;敗露死杖下,仍多繼起者。非有豪傑之士,欲踵武鄭氏也, 緣臺民皆漳泉寄籍人,五十年來,習見兵戈不足畏;又目睹鄭氏將弁投誠, 皆得官封公侯,以是為青雲捷徑,成則王、敗不失為進身階,故接踵走死地 如鶩。非性不善,習見誤之耳。往歲獲亂人,問:『何為叛』?對曰: 『我非叛,諸公何過譸張』?復問:『印札有據,非叛而何』?對曰: 『冀投誠圖出身耳』。聞者絕倒。不知鄭氏方猖,有來歸者,廟謨不惜一官 畀之;不若是,不足解其黨。御亂有術,因時制宜。今鄭氏反正,薄海乂安, 盜弄潢池,有戮無宥,寧與前此同日語乎?亦愚甚矣!故臺灣縣易藏奸宄, 事較兩邑為繁。諸羅、鳳山無民,所隸皆土著番人。番有土番、野番之別: 野番在深山中,疊嶂如屏,連峰插漢,深林密箐,仰不見天,棘刺籐蘿, 舉足觸礙,蓋自洪荒以來,斧斤所未入,野番生其中,巢居穴處,血飲毛茹 者,種類實繁,其升高陟巔越箐度莽之捷,可以追驚猿,逐駭獸,平地諸番恆 畏之,無敢入其境者。而野番恃其獷悍,時出剽掠,焚廬殺人;已復歸其巢, 莫能向邇。其殺人輒取首去,歸而熟之,剔取髑髏,加以丹堊,置之當戶, 同類視其室髑髏多者推為雄,如夢如醉,不知向化,真禽獸耳!譬如虎豹, 遭之則噬;蛇虺,攖之則嚙;苟不近其穴,彼無肆毒之心,亦聽其自生自槁 於雨露中耳。客冬有趨利賴科者,欲通山東土番,與七人為侶,晝伏夜行, 從野番中,越度萬山,竟達東面;東番知其唐人,爭款之,又導之遊各番社, 禾黍芃芃,比戶殷富,謂苦野番間阻,不得與山西通,欲約西番夾擊之。 又曰:『寄語長官,若能以兵相助,則山東萬人,鑿山通道,東西一家, 共輸貢賦,為天朝民矣』。又以小舟從極南沙馬磯海道送之歸。七人所得饋遺 甚厚,謂番俗與山西大略相似,獨平地至海,較西為廣;使當事者能持其議, 與東番約斯夾擊,剿撫並施,烈澤焚山,夷其險阻,則數年之後,未必不變 荊棘為坦途,而化槃瓠僰筰為良民也。若夫平地近番,冬夏一布,粗糲一飽, 不識不知,無求無欲,自遊於葛天、無懷之世,有擊壤、鼓腹之遺風;亦恆 往來市中,狀貌無甚異,惟兩目拗深瞪視,似稍別;其語多作都盧嘓轆聲, 呼酒曰「打剌酥」,呼煙曰「篤木固」,略與相似。相傳臺灣空山無人, 自南宋時元人滅金,金人有浮海避元者,為@風飄至,各擇所居,耕鑿自贍, 遠者或不相往來;數世之後,忘其所自,而語則未嘗改。男女夏則裸體, 惟私處圍三尺布;冬寒以番毯為單衣,毯緝樹皮雜犬毛為之。亦有用麻者, 厚可一錢,兩幅連綴,不開領脰,衣時以頭貫之,仍露其臂;又有袒挂一臂, 及兩幅左右互袒者。婦人衣以一幅雙疊,縫其兩腋,僅蔽胸背;別以一副縫其 兩端以受臂,而橫擔肩上。上衣覆乳露腹;中衣橫裹,僅掩私,不及膝; 足不知履,以烏布圍股;一身凡三截,各不相屬。老人頭白,則不挂一縷, 箕踞往來,鄰婦不避也。髮如亂蓬,以青蒿為香草,日取束髮,蟣虱遶走 其上。間有少婦施膏沐者,分兩綹盤之,亦有致;妍者亦露倩盼之態, 但以鹿脂為膏,戱不可近。男子競尚大耳,於成童時,向耳垂間各穿一孔, 用篠竹貫之,日以加大,有大如盤,至於垂肩撞胸者。項間螺貝纍纍,盤繞 數匝,五色陸離,都成光怪。胸背文以雕青,為鳥翼、網罟、虎豹文,不可 名狀。人無老少,不留一髭,並五毛盡去之。有病不知醫藥,惟飲溪水則愈。 婦人無冬夏,日浴於溪,浴畢汲上流之水而歸。有病者浴益頻。孕婦始娩, 即攜兒赴浴。兒患痘,盡出其漿,復浴之,曰:『不若是,不愈也』。婚姻無 媒妁,女已長,父母使居別室中,少年求偶者皆來,吹鼻簫,彈口琴, 得女子和之,即入與亂,亂畢自去;久之,女擇所愛者乃與挽手。挽手者, 以明私許之意也。明日,女告其父母,召挽手少年至,鑿上齶門牙旁二齒 授女,女亦鑿二齒付男,期某日就婦室婚,終身依婦以處。蓋皆以門楣 紹瓜瓞,父母不得有其子,故一再世而孫且不識其祖矣;番人皆無姓氏, 有以也。番室倣龜殼為制,築土基三五尺,立棟其上,覆以茅,茅簷深遠, 垂地過土基方丈,雨暘不得侵。其下可舂可炊,可坐可臥,以貯笨車、網罟、 農具、雞栖、豚柵,無不宜。室前後各為牖,在脊棟下,緣梯而登。室中空無 所有,視有幾犬。為置幾榻,人惟藉鹿皮擇便臥;夏並鹿皮去之,藉地而已。 壁間懸葫蘆,大如斗,旨蓄毯衣納其中;竹筒數規,則新醅也。其釀法, 聚男女老幼共嚼米,納筒中,數日成酒,飲時入清泉和之。客至,髮婦傾筒中 酒先嘗,然後進客,客飲盡則喜,否則慍;慍客或憎之也,又呼其鄰婦, 各衣毯衣,為聯袂之歌以侑觴,客或狎之,亦不怒。其夫見婦為客狎,喜甚, 謂己妻實都,故唐人悅之(海外皆稱中國為大唐,稱中國人為唐人)。 若其同類為奸,則挾弓矢偵奸人射殺之,而不懟其婦。地產五穀,番人惟食 稻、黍與稷,都不食麥。其饔飧不宿舂,曉起待炊而舂;既熟,聚家人手摶 食之。山中多麋鹿,射得輒飲其血;肉之生熟不甚較,果腹而已。出不慮風 雨,行不計止宿;食云則食,坐云則坐;喜一笑,痛一顰。終歲不知春夏, 老死不知年歲。寒然後求衣,飢然後求食,不預計也。村落廬舍,各為向背。 無市肆貿易,有金錢,無所用,故不知蓄積。雖有余力,惟知計日而耕, 秋成納稼;計終歲所食,有余,則盡付麴蘗;來年新禾既植,又盡以所余 釀酒。番人無男女皆嗜酒,酒熟,各攜所釀,聚男女酣飲,歌呼如沸, 累三日夜不輟;余粟既罄,雖飢不悔。屋必自構,衣需自織,耕田而後食, 汲澗而後飲,績麻為網,屈竹為弓,以獵以漁,蓋畢世所需,罔非自為而 後用之。腰間一刃,行臥與俱,凡所成造,皆出於此。惟陶冶不能自為, 得鐵則取澗中兩石夾槌之,久亦成器,未嘗不利於用。剖瓠截竹,用代陶瓦, 可以挹酒漿,可以胹餴饎。我有之,我飲食之,鄉黨親戚,緩急有無不相通; 鄰人米爛粟紅,饑者不之貸也。社有小大,戶口有眾寡,皆推一二人為土官。 其居室、飲食、力作,皆與眾等,無一毫加於眾番;不似滇廣土官,徵賦稅, 操殺奪,擁兵自衛者比。其先不知有君長,自紅毛始踞時,平地土番悉 受約束,力役輸賦不敢違,犯法殺人者,剿滅無孑遺。鄭氏繼至,立法尤嚴, 誅夷不遺赤子,併田疇廬舍廢之。其實土番殺人,非謀不軌也,麴蘗誤之也。 群飲之際,誇力爭強,互不相下,杯斝未釋手,白刃已陷其脰間;有平時睚 眥,醉後修怨,旦日酒醒,曾不自知,而討罪之師已躡其門矣。故至今大肚、 牛罵、大甲、竹塹諸社,林莽荒穢,不見一人,諸番視此為戒,相率謂曰: 『紅毛強,犯之無噍類;鄭氏來,紅毛畏之逃去;今鄭氏又為皇帝勦滅, 盡為臣虜,皇帝真天威矣』!故其人既愚,又甚畏法。曩鄭氏於諸番徭賦 頗重,我朝因之。秋成輸榖似易,而艱於輸賦,彼終世不知白鏹為何物, 又安所得此以貢其上?於是仍沿包社之法,郡縣有財力者,認辦社課, 名曰社商;社商又委通事夥長輩,使居社中,凡番人一粒一毫,皆有籍稽之。 射得麋鹿,盡取其肉為脯,並收其皮。日本人甚需鹿皮,有賈舶收買; 脯以鬻漳郡人,二者輸賦有余。然此輩欺番人愚,朘削無厭,視所有不異己 物; 平時事無巨細,悉呼番人男婦孩稚,供役其室無虛日。且皆納番婦為妻妾, 有求必與,有過必撻,而番人不甚怨之。苟能化以禮義,風以詩書, 教以蓄有備無之道,制以衣服、飲食、冠婚、喪祭之禮,使咸知愛親、敬長、 尊君、親上,啟發樂生之心,潛消頑憝之性,遠則百年、近則三十年, 將見風俗改觀,率循禮教,寧與中國之民有以異乎?古稱荊蠻斷髮文身之俗, 乃在吳越近地,今且蔚為人文淵藪。至若閩地,叛服不常,漢世再棄而 復收之;自道南先生出,而有宋理學大儒競起南中。人固不可以常俗限, 是在上之人鼓舞而化導之耳!今臺郡百執事,朝廷以其海外勞吏,每三歲遷擢, 政令初施,人心未洽,而轉盼易之,安必蕭規曹隨,後至者一守前人繩尺, 不事更張為?況席不暇暖,視一官如傳舍,孰肯為遠效難稽之治乎? 余謂欲化番人,必如周之分封同姓及世卿采地,子孫世守;或如唐韋皋、 宋張詠之治蜀,久任數十年,不責旦暮之效然後可。噫!蓋亦難言矣! 然又有暗阻潛撓於中者,則社棍是也。此輩皆內地犯法奸民,逃死匿身於辟遠 無人之地,謀充夥長通事,為日既久,熟識番情,復解番語,父死子繼, 流毒無已。彼社商者,不過高臥郡邑,催餉納課而已;社事任其播弄, 故社商有虧折耗費,此輩坐享其利。社商率一二歲更易,而此輩雖死不移也。 此輩正利番人之愚,又甚欲番人之貧:愚則不識不知,攫奪惟意;貧則易於槌挾, 力不敢抗。匪特不教之,且時時誘陷之。即有以冤訴者,而番語侏離,不能達 情,聽訟者仍問之通事,通事顛倒是非以對,番人反受呵譴;通事又告之曰: 『縣官以爾違通事夥長言,故怒責爾』。於是番人益畏社棍,事之不啻帝天。 其情至於無告,而上之人無由知。是舉世所當哀矜者,莫番人若矣。乃以其異類 且歧視之;見其無衣,曰:『是不知寒』;見其雨行露宿,曰:『彼不致疾』; 見其負重馳遠,曰:『若本耐勞』。噫!若亦人也!其肢體皮骨,何莫非人? 而云若是乎?馬不宿馳,牛無偏駕,否且致疾;牛馬且然,而況人乎? 抑知彼苟多帛,亦重綈矣,寒胡為哉?彼苟無事,亦安居矣,暴露胡為哉? 彼苟免力役,亦暇且逸矣,奔走負戴於社棍之室胡為哉?夫樂飽暖而苦飢寒, 厭勞役而安逸豫,人之性也;異其人,何必異其性?仁人君子,知不吐余言。 七月望,炎暑漸退,新涼襲人。有役夫自省中初至者十二人,方共具飯醪, 為中元祀鬼事,向空山羅拜,余笑而賚之酒;其明日,有三人忽稱病。 十七日,病者又五人,北風大作。十八日,風愈橫,而十二人悉不起, 爨煙遽絕。自十九日至二十一日,大風拔木,三晝夜不輟,草屋二十余間, 圮者過半。夜臥聞草樹聲與海濤聲,澎湃震耳,屋漏如傾,終夜數起,不能交睫。 二十二日,風雨益橫,屋前草亭飛去,如空中舞蝶。余屋三楹,風至兩柱並折, 慮屋圮無容身地,冒雨攜斧斨自伐六樹支棟,力憊甚。而萬山崩流並下, 汎濫四溢,顧病者皆仰臥莫起,急呼三板來渡。余猶往來岸上,尚欲為室中 所有計,不虞水勢驟湧,急趨屋後深草中避之;水隨踵至,自沒脛沒膝, 至於及胸。凡在大風雨中涉水行三四里;風至時時欲仆,以杖掖之, 得山巖番室暫棲。暮,無從得食,以身衣向番兒易隻雞充餒。中夜風力猶勁。 二十三日,平明,風雨俱息;比午,有霽色,呼番兒棹莽葛至山下渡 余登海舶,過草廬舊址,惟平地而已。余既倖生存,亦不復更念室中物。 敝衣猶足蔽體,解付舟人,就日曝乾,復衣之;遂居舟中。二十五日, 水既落,乘海舶出港,至張大所。有病者一人殞舟中,為藁葬山下,以屍骨無渡 海理也。二十八日,視舟中病者轉劇,因遣海舶急歸。余獨留張大家,命張大 為余再治屋。二十九日,復大風雨四晝夜,洪水又至,走二靈山避之, 驚怖又甚於前。幸早避,得免涉水。然在空山中,竟一日夜不得食。 初四日,雨止風息,再返張大所。初八日,有一舶入港,言初五日三舶同自省 中來,半渡遭風,一舶已碎,其一不知所往;友人顧君敷公在焉,念之甚切。 自此旦旦出海上望之。十五日,中秋節,番兒報舊址茅屋成,尚有臺郡病夫二 人不能歸者,從余走海岸沙際遙望。午後,張大攜餚核至,與余就沙際飲。 抵暮而返,不見一帆。十六日,乘莽葛返茅屋中,與病夫二人俱。視新結茅 三區,區各三楹,余與二病夫各占一區。夜惟孤影,四面猿啼鬼嘯聲不輟。 有臺令李子鵠梅花書屋詩一卷,雋永可玩,坐常至夜分。一日,甫就枕, 殘燈既熄,帳前有火光如盌,碧色,去地三尺許,知其燐也;審視久之而滅。 二十五日,忽聞有海舶至,驚喜出戶,則顧君敷公至矣。問遭風飄泊何所? 云: 『是日,西岸頗無風,半渡風至,舟人強持之,已見雞籠、二靈諸山;值潮落, 不得入港。陳某一舶已觸岸為齏粉,惕然轉舵,歸西岸,泊定海鎮山下,舟中 器具悉敗,需補製,而大風又半月不輟,故遲來,幸無恙』。而余前遣歸 一舶,亦以是日至;問病者歸去何若?則死已過半矣!計兩舶中復來夫役近 六十人。明日再修釜突,煎煉硫土,一如曩昔。夜則與顧君共論前代海防及 偽鄭故事,議其得喪。私謂吾兩人已絕蠻貊,蹈非人之境,人將不堪憂, 如吾兩人,豈非不改其樂者歟?復一夕,就寢未寐,余視屋外火光如箕,赤色 耀目。余以見慣不怪,顧君駭曰:『君榻下何故燃燭』?余笑曰:『火從君 枕畔來,照吾榻下,君試反顧,必有所見』。顧君遽躍起,方結衣褌,欲出戶, 火光漸滅。又一夕,有鳴鏑過枕畔,恐野番乘夜加遺,出戶視之,不見一物。 十月朔,硫事既竣,將理歸棹,命眾役夫向山間刈薪;午後又使人艤三板水涯 以待,見四人並坐樹下,疑刈薪有先歸者,趨問之,已不見。種種幻妄, 皆鬼物也,人之居此,寧不病且殆乎?初四日,復出,至張大家與別,遂登舟。 初七日,未刻,值風便,與顧君舶同出大海。北風方勁,巨浪如山; 行不數里,余舟檣折有聲,迴視顧君一舶,亦大呼檣折。二舶在巨浪中, 既無復入港理,隨風蕩漾,意必飄南方千里外,憂不能寐。初八日,侵曉, 風稍息,余攬衣出視,晨光初動,宿霧未收;而一輪紅日,從鷁尾水底湧出, 三躍而後昇,大如車輪,海波盡赤,不瞬息已高丈余矣。向聞登州日觀擅奇, 殆未必如余所睹也。將午,遙見遠山在有無間,猶疑為海上雲氣;午後, 審視漸真,舟師謂是省城官塘山。夜半,抵官塘;猶屬海外孤島,不連內地。 初九日,自官塘趨定海鎮。已刻,將近山,顧君一舶業已先至,相見如夢; 意二舶檣折,無並全理,竟達會城,嘆為神助。望山上兩城遙峙,前人築為 犄角互守計者也。命舟師櫂三板登岸,周覽一匝,略得形勢之概。沿海市肆 碁布,漁艇有大於海舶者。覽畢登舟,乘順風南行,去岸甚遠,仍行大海中 五六十里。至五虎門,兩山夾峙,勢甚雄險;又有巨石綿亙入海,如五虎 蹲踞中流,實閩省門戶也。門外風力鼓蕩,舟勢顛越;既入門,靜淥淵渟, 與門外迥別矣。左望山巒斷處,為梅花嶼,沙淤水淺,非潮長不能出入。 更進為亭頭(土音讀作城頭),是近海大村落。至則暮矣,命從者攜臥具, 與顧君偕登怡山僧院假宿焉。老僧粗解文義,可與語。壁間有詩,倚韻為 五言律:『弱水歸帆遠,驚濤日夜紛;青衫余蜃氣,寶劍有龍文;暫息滄州 (豪按別本作併州)駕,還瞻故國雲;鐘聲與禪誦,清響得重聞』。 初十日,復登舟,苦水涸,必候潮至始行;十里至閩安鎮,有副帥,屯兵千人 守口;再行十里,膠淺不前。十一日,行不數里。十二日,趁微風, 以棹佐之,望見南臺大橋。周子宣玉率數僕乘小艇來迓,既見,歡甚; 余與宣玉共乘小艇,同至大橋,登陸。入城,求晤曩時餞送諸交好,惟裘子 紹衣、何子襄臣、表姪周在魯三人在,余或歸家,或他適,不可得見; 獨呂子鴻圖先我渡海歸,差可喜。再睹城市景物,憶半載處非人之境, 不啻隔世,不知較化鶴歸來者何如?余向慕海外遊,謂弱水可掬、三山可即, 今既目極蒼茫,足窮幽險,而所謂神仙者,不過裸體文身之類而已!縱有閬苑 蓬瀛,不若吾鄉瀲灩空濛處簫鼓畫船、雨奇晴好,足繫吾思也。觀止矣! 寄語秦、漢之君,毋事褰裳濡足也!追憶遊歷所睹,再為土番竹枝以詠之。 生來曾不識衣衫,裸體年年耐歲寒;犢鼻也知難免俗,烏青三尺是圍 闌。烏青是黑布名。文身舊俗是雕青,背上盤旋鳥翼形;一變又為文豹 鞹,蛇神牛鬼共猙擰。半線以北,胸背皆作豹文,如半臂之在體。胸背 斕斑直到腰,爭誇錯錦勝鮫綃;冰肌玉腕都文遍,只有雙蛾不解描。 番婦臂股,文繡都遍,獨頭面蓬垢,不知修飾;以無鏡可照,終身不能一睹 其貌也番兒大耳是奇觀,少小都將兩耳鑽;截竹塞輪輪漸大,如錢如碗復 如盤。番兒大耳如盤,立則垂肩,行則撞胸。同類競以耳大為豪,故不辭 痛楚為之。丫髻三叉似幼童,髮根偏愛繫紅絨;出門又插文禽尾,陌上颻搖 各鬥風。覆額薺眉繞亂莎,不分男女似頭陀;晚來女伴臨溪浴,一隊 鸕鶿蕩綠波。半線以北,男女皆翦髮覆額,狀若頭陀。番婦無老幼, 每近日暮,必浴溪中。鑢貝雕螺各盡功,陸離斑駁碧兼紅;番兒項下 重重遶,客至疑過繡領宮。銅篐鐵鐲儼刑人,鬥怪爭奇事事新;多少丹青 摹變相,畫圖那得似生成?老翁似女女如男,男女無分總一般;口角有髭 皆拔盡,鬚眉卻作婦人顏。腰下人人插短刀,朝朝磨礪可吹毛;殺人屠狗 般般用,纔罷樵薪又索綯。人各一刀,頃刻不離,斫伐割剝,事事用之。 畊田鑿井自艱辛,緩急何曾叩比鄰?構屋斵輪還結網,百工俱備一人身。番人不知 交易、借貸、有無相通理,鄰人有粟,饑者不之貸也。畢世所需,皆自為而後 用之。輕身矯捷似猿猱,編竹為篐束細腰;等得吹簫尋鳳侶,從今割斷伴妖嬈。 番兒以射鹿逐獸為生,腹大則走不疾,自孩孺即篐其腰,至長不弛, 常有足追奔馬者。結縭之夕始斷之。男兒待字早離娘,有子成童任遠 颺;不重生男重生女,家園原不與兒郎。番俗以婿紹瓜瓞,有子不得 承父業,故不知有姓氏。女兒纔到破瓜時,阿母忙為構室居;吹得鼻 簫能合調,任教自擇可人兒。番女與鄰兒私通,得以自擇所愛。只須 嬌女得歡心,那見堂開孔雀屏?既得歡心纔挽手,更加鑿齒締姻盟。 亂髮鬖鬖不作緺,常將兩手自搔爬;飛蓬畢世無膏沐,一樣綢繆是室 家。番婦亂髮如蓬,蟣蝨遶走其上,時以五指代梳。誰道番姬巧解釀? 自將生米嚼成漿;竹筒為甕床頭掛,客至開筒勸客嘗。夫攜弓矢婦鋤 耰,無褐無衣不解愁;番罽一圍聊蔽體,雨來還有鹿皮兜。鹿皮藉地 為臥具,遇雨即以覆體。竹弓楛矢赴鹿場,射得鹿來交社商;家家婦 子門前盼,飽惟余瀝是頭腸。番人射得麋鹿以付社商收掌充賦,惟頭 腸無用,得與妻孥共飽。莽葛元來是小舠,刳將獨木似浮瓢;月明海 澨歌如沸,知是番兒夜弄潮。番人夫婦,乘莽葛射魚,歌聲竟夜不輟。 種秫秋來甫入場,舉家為計一年糧;余皆釀酒呼群輩,共罄平原十日觴。秫米登場, 即以為酒,男女藉草劇飲歌舞,晝夜不輟,不盡不止。梨園敝服盡蒙茸, 男女無分只尚紅;或曳朱襦或半臂,土官氣象已從容。土官購戲衣為公服, 但求紅紫,不問男女。土番舌上掉都盧,對酒歡呼打剌酥;聞道金亡避元難, 颶風吹到始謀居。番語皆滾舌作都盧轂轆聲。深山負險聚遊魂,一種名為傀儡 番;博得頭顱當戶列,髑髏多處是豪門。深山野番,種類實繁,舉傀儡番以概其餘。 [End of this Etext of 裨海紀遊] End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Pihai Travelog, by Yong-he Yu *** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PIHAI TRAVELOG *** ***** This file should be named 54670-0.txt or 54670-0.zip ***** This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: http://www.gutenberg.org/5/4/6/7/54670/ Produced by Miaoyin Lin Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will be renamed. 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