A BRIEF SKETCH
OF THE
LONG AND VARIED CAREER
OF
Marshall MacDermott
ESQ., J.P.,
OF
ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA.

OF THE

LONG AND VARIED CAREER

Marshall MacDermott, Esq., J.P.

OF ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA.

The following pages were written very recently, under a degree of pressure from some members of my family; and as I possessed no memoranda whatever to aid me in such a work, I have had to rely entirely upon memory; therefore errors in details may reasonably claim excuse, after the lapse of so long a period of time. These papers are written solely for private distribution amongst relatives and special friends; and, as my family is rather numerous and dispersed, the necessity arises of having them printed.

I obtained a Commission in the Army of His late Majesty King George III., at a very early age, through the influence of Lord Hutchinson, at that time British Ambassador at the Court of St. Petersburg, and joined the 2nd Battalion of the 8th (or King’s) Regiment of Foot, in the year 1808, at Chester. Being anxious to be employed on foreign service, I obtained leave in the same year to join the 1st Battalion of the Regiment at Halifax, in Nova Scotia, and towards the close of that year embarked again with a division of troops under Sir Geo. Prevost, to attack the French islands of Martinique, Guadaloup, &c., in the West Indies. The Halifax Division consisted of the 8th, 13th, 7th, and 23rd Fusileers, with Artillery and Engineers; and we joined the West Indian Division under the Commander-in-Chief, Sir Geo. Beckwith, at Barbadoes.

During the voyage from Halifax, the convoy, including a large fleet of transports, encountered a “white squall,” which only lasted about fifteen minutes. From the fury of the tempest the sea could not rise; it was smooth as a table, but covered with a dense white foam. The fleet had been carrying a press of sail, especially the dull sailers; when, like a clap of thunder, it was suddenly thrown on its beam ends. Sails were torn into ribbons and small spars and wreck were flying in all directions. Heavy rains then descended, followed by a dead calm, when an enormous sea arose—ships on the crest of the waves, finding others in the gulph below them under no control, and in imminent danger of crushing each other. Damages were repaired, and without any serious losses the fleet proceeded on its voyage.

The united force sailed from Barbadoes for Martinique, accompanied by the West India squadron, commanded by Sir Alexander Cochrane, who took up a position with the West Indian Division of Troops outside of Port Royal Harbour, on the west side of the island. The North American Division landed at Bay Robert, on the east side, and after two days’ sharp fighting drove the French force, consisting of four regiments of the line and about 11,000 Militia, across the island, when they took refuge in the strong fortress of Fort Bourbon, disbanding their Militia. On this occasion I had the honour of carrying the King’s colours of my regiment.

The siege of the fortress, armed with over 200 pieces of heavy ordnance, then commenced. The 8th Regiment was placed in position along a range of hills facing the fort, being a coffee plantation, forming part of the estate of the Empress Josephine of France. The ground had been recently broken up, and there being no tents, the heavy tropical rains severely tested the constitutions of the soldiers, who left their moulds in the loose earth on rising each following morning.

The mortar and breaching batteries maintained a heavy fire for about six weeks, when two breaches being reported practicable, the storming parties were told off for the assault on the following morning. At the dawn of day, however, a white flag was discernible; the garrison surrendered, marched out with the honours of war at 12 o’clock, piled arms, and were immediately placed on board transports for conveyance to Europe.

Four Imperial Eagles, the first Napoleon had ever lost, were among the trophies; afterwards placed in the Royal Chapel at Whitehall, London. The 8th Regiment chanced to encounter the French 8th of the line on this occasion, as it had previously done in Egypt; and was presented by the Commander-in-Chief with the fine set of brass drums delivered up by the latter corps.

Just previous to the arrival of the expedition, a French frigate, heavily laden with gunpowder for the garrison, had arrived at Martinique; but before it could be landed, preparations for cutting her out having been observed amongst the English fleet, she was blown up at night by the French. The whole island was shaken by the explosion; and the mountain of fire, with floating wreck clearly visible, was inconceivably grand and awful.

At this time, war with America appearing to be imminent, the North American Division was immediately embarked, and sailed for the defence of these provinces, landing at Halifax.

The 8th Regiment was ordered to embark, and sailed for Quebec in 1810, when it was thought the navigation of the River St. Lawrence would be open. The transports passed through the Gut of Causo towards evening, and entered the Gulf of St. Lawrence. About midnight they found themselves surrounded by broken ice, and four of the ships put back; but that in which I sailed continued her course. For three days and nights she was imperilled amongst floes of broken ice; fortunately, however, to leeward of a field of ice extending about 40 miles in length. The nights were dark, and men were placed on the bowsprit to watch the floating ice and give warning for the ship to put about. Very often the time was insufficient, and the ship’s sides were so frequently felt to be grinding against the ice, that it was feared the planks might not be able to resist such frequent abrasions. A few days later she cleared the Gulf and entered the noble River St. Lawrence, 90 miles wide at its mouth, and 400 miles distant from Quebec. On approaching the city the scene was magnificent. On the right, the large Island of Orleans—a perfect garden. Further on, the Falls of Montmorency, 240 feet high; and in front, the river here taking a bend, the Citadel, and the City of Quebec on a very lofty elevation. The latter has a most remarkable appearance, all the steeples and houses being covered with bright tin, to facilitate the snow in shooting off from the roofs.

Both banks of the river, so far as it had been settled by the French in Lower Canada, were laid out on a uniform military plan—a town with a steeple every nine miles, where the Captain of Militia was stationed, one of his lieutenants being on the other flank and another in the centre.

The regiment was quartered at Quebec during the summer. At this time, however, the 2nd Battalion of the 8th had arrived at Halifax from England, and I was ordered to join it on promotion, which I did, sailing on board a man-of-war in which I had been offered a passage. Soon afterwards I was placed with a detachment at Melville Island, in charge of French prisoners of war amongst whom I observed an intelligent young midshipman, who I regretted to find herded with the common sailors, and frequently had him to breakfast at my quarters, after which we used to practice the small sword exercise with foils, and became tolerably efficient. After some time I applied to the Admiral, Sir J. B. Warren, and obtained his parole, which the young scamp subsequently broke, and disappeared.

In the year 1811, the 2nd Battalion 8th was stationed at St. John’s, in the Province of New Brunswick, to which place, after marching through Nova Scotia, they crossed the Bay of Fundy. Here the tides rise forty feet, and enter a small gulf leading to the town of Windsor in the latter province, in the form of a bore, that is, suddenly, as a wall of water, nearly perpendicular, and eight or ten feet high.

During the year 1812 the Americans declared war against England, at Washington, having previously ordered their army on the frontier to invade Upper Canada, on the same day, being several days before the intelligence could be known at that place. They signally failed, however, in their first attacks. Reinforcements being urgently required, and the River St. Lawrence being frozen up for the season, the 2nd Battalion 8th was ordered to attempt the winter march on snow shoes to Quebec; generally through desert country, and partly through the enemy’s territory, and where no baggage animals could travel.

The march occupied forty-two days, with a day’s interval between each division or company. Fortunately, there had been just sufficient time to form two depôts of provisions on the line of march, thus making three stages of fourteen days each. On leaving each station officers and men alike had to carry on their backs fourteen days’ provisions, personal baggage, arms, &c., and frequently to march on snow shoes, which, without other encumbrances, is a labour to those unpractised. The camping at evening presented a novel scene. Huts were formed of poles covered with branches of spruce-fir, leaving the tops open for the smoke to escape. Large fires were kept up the whole length of the huts; poles being staked down at proper distances on each side, against which, the sleeping soldiers rested their feet—their couches being formed of layers of spruce boughs on the snow, which made capital elastic beds. The march was successful, having only lost one man from the fall of a tree, and fourteen men afterwards discharged disabled from being severely frost-bitten.

When the snow was deep it was necessary to march in Indian files, that is, only one man in front to tread down a path, the leading man falling in rear after fifteen or twenty paces, the next then leading, and so on in succession, the fatigue on snow shoes being great. Another rule was, that the last man of each division should be an officer, to keep up stragglers. There happened to be a long march of twenty-five miles across Lake Tamiskwata, next to the grand portage between that lake and the River St. Lawrence, when it was my turn to be the last man of my division. A violent snow-storm commenced early in the day, and after marching about eight miles, a man was seized with convulsions. What was to be done? The snow was drifting in eddies and circles, obliterating the path in front. No wood was accessible to light a fire, and the man must not be left behind. Fortunately, the party had with them an Indian contrivance, called a “tobaugan,” being a thin board twelve feet long turned up in front like a skate, used to relieve sick and weakly men of their loads. This was unpacked and the load distributed amongst those present; the sick man was covered with many blankets, tied on and dragged by the party, eight in number, in turns. Happily, they arrived safely at the end of their stage. My load on that day’s march was, besides my own luggage and provisions, a soldier’s knapsack and two muskets, my share of drawing the tobaugan, and marching on snow shoes. The division in front encountered great dangers in crossing the Grand Portage over a mountainous country; the snow drifting in circles, obliterating paths, and filling up deep hollows. Great risks arose from men lying down from fatigue, which required unwearied exertions on the part of the officers to prevent, to save them from perishing. After marching for twenty-two hours until daylight next morning, the division had only progressed eight miles, having been partially travelling in circles with the drifting snow.

The divisions struck the St. Lawrence ninety miles below Quebec, and the spontaneous kindness of the French Canadians could not have been exceeded. The carrioles, sleighs, and sledges of the whole district were assembled, and no man was suffered to march. They also fed the whole regiment during the route. On their arrival at Point Levi, opposite Quebec, where the river is over a mile wide, it was found that the ice had broken up and was floating down in great masses with a current of about six miles an hour. A number of large wooden canoes were collected, carrying about twenty men each, in the management of which the Canadians are very expert. After the men were seated the canoe was launched into open water, and the crew paddled away with all their might. When they encountered a large piece of ice they jumped out, and hauled up the canoe upon it, dragged it across, and launched it on the opposite side. This was rather a nervous operation, as the inclines, both in launching and hauling up, were very steep, and required holding on hard. This had to be repeated several times during the passage.

Early in the following spring the regiment embarked in steam-boats for Montreal. Shortly afterwards, a remarkable and most interesting ceremony took place there, at which I was present. The chiefs of about forty Indian nations, or tribes—some from the shores of the Pacific Ocean, distant about 4,000 miles—assembled at Government House for the purpose of holding a “talk” or council with the Governor-General, Sir George Prevost, and concluding a treaty with him—offensive and defensive. Each chief had been presented with a scarlet robe, and the scene was very imposing.

The chiefs, generally, were remarkably fine-looking men, their features Grecian, their carriage easy and graceful. Each chief, while addressing the Governor-General, held a “wampum” belt, handsomely embroidered with porcupine quills, and beads of various colours, which is their record of the treaty. When the recognised superior chief had concluded his speech he should have handed the “wampum” belt to the chief next in dignity of the Sioux tribe. It so happened, however, that he was passed over, and it was offered to him as the third speaker. He declined the honour in a most dignified and courteous manner, and would not deliver his address until after all the others had finished.

Their language was very poetical, figurative, and quite in the Ossian style, somewhat in the following manner:—

“We have come from the setting to the rising sun to help our Father in his time of need, and to live or die with him.”

“In days long past our Father and his Red Children fought with the Big Knives (the Americans) and they laid our Father on his back; and he held out his hand to the Big Knives (made peace) but forgot his Red Children. We hope he will not do so again.”

“We ask our great Father at the other side of the Big Lake, (the Atlantic Ocean) to supply his Red Children with arms and ammunition, and to help us in our time of need.”

Their addresses were long, and very beautiful; and six Canadians were found sufficient to interpret their numerous dialects.

After a short stay at Montreal, the regiment marched to La Prairie, near Lake Champlain, on the frontier of the State of New York, where a force of 10,000 men was assembled, including Militia, for the purpose of attacking the American fortress of Plattsburgh, on that lake. During the advance I was severely wounded in a night attack. A ball struck my chain wing, on the right shoulder, cutting it into three slugs which entered my neck (together with six links of brass chain, a brass button, and some cloth and bullion) close to the carotid artery, dividing the gullet, and lodged near the carotid artery on the other side, whence they were afterwards cut out, sundry sinews being attached to the brass chain. I lay all night on the field in a pool of blood, and was carried into camp the next morning. The copious bleeding—which was repeated three times afterwards by the surgeon—was probably, humanly speaking, the means of saving my life, which was spared by the mercy of Almighty God. From excessive inflammation and swelling nothing passed my lips for eight days, and then on taking a little milk and water it passed out through the wound over my shoulder. I recovered in six months; but the wound broke out again after fifteen years, from a cold, and was nearly fatal.

During the years 1813 and 1814 the 1st Battalion, 8th, 41st, and 49th Regiments, together with some Militia, had to defend a frontier of 1,500 miles, from Montreal to Michilimakina, on Lake Superior. The American fleets on the several lakes being generally superior, were enabled to land numerous forces to attack weak points. On such occasions the English troops had to concentrate by forced marches during summer and winter. Numerous sanguinary actions were fought, and their losses in killed and wounded were rarely equalled. But they not only maintained their ground, but took possession of the Michigan territory—larger than England—which was not restored to the Americans until after the treaty of peace.

During these campaigns the 1st Battalion of the 8th Regiment lost more in killed and wounded than their original number, viz., 45 officers and over 900 men. Its number, however, was maintained by drafts from the 2nd Battalion and recruits from England.

During the winter of 1814-15 a king’s messenger arrived at Montreal with despatches, announcing the conclusion of a treaty of peace with America, and I was ordered to proceed with this despatch to Upper Canada to put an end to further hostilities. I travelled by sleigh with a pair of horses on the ice, driven by a French Canadian along the River St. Lawrence, avoiding the rapids at the several portages. When crossing Lake St. Francois—an expansion of the St. Lawrence—it being near the close of the winter, the ice broke under us. The driver was skilful, lashed his horses, which sprang with their fore-feet on the firm ice, giving them a fresh impulse; this also broke and several others in succession, until at length the firm ice was gained at some distance. The current underneath was very rapid. I delivered my despatch to the Commodore, Sir Jas. Yeo, on board his flag ship the “Ontario,” 110 guns, at Kingston, Lake Ontario. This ship was an extraordinary object to see on a fresh water lake.

After my return from Upper Canada I rejoined the 1st Battalion of my regiment, and intelligence having arrived of the escape of Napoleon Bonaparte from Elba, 10,000 troops, chiefly composed of regiments recently arrived, and which had belonged to the army of the Duke of Wellington, were ordered to embark at Quebec, and were to receive further instructions on reaching the English Channel. Those troops were formed into three brigades, under Sir Geo. Murray, Sir Thos. Brisbane, and Sir Fredk. Robinson, with artillery, and equipped in all points ready to take the field. They sailed in the month of May, and expected to reach Europe in time to take part in the first battle with the army of Napoleon. When the fleet of transports reached the banks of Newfoundland it was enveloped in a dense fog, and the ships’ bells were constantly ringing to prevent their falling foul of each other. Suddenly they entered a clear atmosphere, which was caused by the presence of numerous icebergs of enormous size. The Commodore, Sir Geo. Collyer, in the “Liffey” frigate, sailed close to one of them, and his royal-masts only reached two-thirds of its height. It must have been 100 feet high, and ice is always two-thirds under water; its length was about three miles, and its enormous bulk may thus be conceived. It must have broken off from some very high cliff. It appeared clear as crystal, and numerous rills of water were flowing down its sides forming gullies. The clear atmosphere extended within a radius of about five miles; after which the ships re-entered the fog on the opposite side.

On entering the English Channel a frigate was waiting the arrival of the fleet, and gave the intelligence that the Battle of Waterloo had been fought only seven days previously. The strong regiments landed in France and joined the army of occupation at Paris. The 8th landed at Portsmouth and marched to Windsor, where it was quartered.

The 8th Regiment relieved the Coldstream Guards at Windsor, and in their campaigning costume their appearance did not satisfy the Princesses—daughters of King George III. It became necessary, therefore, to purchase some new articles of clothing at the cost of the soldiers. Those ladies, especially Princess Elizabeth, were very critical in matters of dress. Three officers happened to be walking in the Green Park without their swords, and noticing the approach of the Princesses, they turned into a side walk to avoid them. The ladies, evidently intentionally, also turned off into the same walk, and suddenly met the officers face to face. Neither party could avoid laughing. But the circumstance of their appearing without swords was afterwards mentioned to Sir Herbert Taylor, the King’s equerry. His Majesty was at this time insane, and occupied a padded room in the Castle, just over the terrace, in care of an attendant. The terrace was closed against the public, but the officers on guard, when visiting their sentries, frequently saw His Majesty at the windows. His appearance was most venerable, with a white flowing beard down upon his breast. Previous to his insanity it was related of him that he accosted a sentry on the terrace one morning, asking his name and if he had a family; the man replied, “Yes.” The King then said, “Come, along with me to the garden, and I will give you some cabbages.” “Please your Majesty, I must not leave my post.” “O, well, well, come when you are relieved, and I will fill your sack with cabbages.”

On home service few events occur worth recording. Remaining two years at Windsor, the regiment embarked at Portsmouth for Malta. After passing Gibraltar, while becalmed off Cape de Gat, on the Spanish coast, a number of turtles were observed floating on the water. I, with some other officers, got into a boat and rowed towards them. They were apparently sleeping, and eight of them were caught by the fins and captured. One of them, however, weighing about 200 lbs., caught three of my fingers in its beak and cut me severely. I was quite willing to let my antagonist escape, but my opponent would not consent, and he was hauled on board still holding his prey. Fortunately, there was a marlinspike on board and the fingers were released, thus affording an illustration of “catching a Tartar.”

Malta, with its magnificent harbour, is remarkable in many respects. Valletta, its capital, is built on a rock surrounded on three sides by the harbour, and is strongly fortified, as well as its three suburbs and dock-yard situated across the harbour. The parapets of the various fortifications by which all these places are enclosed are said to measure forty-two miles. The works are of great magnitude. When the island was held by the knights of Malta—formerly knights of Rhodes, and originally knights of St. John of Jerusalem—it is stated that at one period they had as many as 100,000 Saracens, prisoners of war, on the island, who were employed on these stupendous works.

The ditch between Valletta and its suburb Floreana is sixty feet wide and forty feet deep, cut out of solid rock, a sandstone resembling that at Bath. The catacombs between Valletta and Citta Vecchia, distant seven and a-half miles, are a perfect labyrinth of excavated galleries, and so many persons have been lost there that the dangerous passages have been walled up. Solid oblong masses of human skulls and bones have been piled in various places, and there are several spacious halls, supposed to have been used as places of concealment.

At Citta Vecchia an ancient church exists—a re-building of one erected on the spot stated by tradition to be the place where St. Paul had been bitten by a viper. And you see before you the channel “where two seas meet,” between the islands of Malta and Gozo; where they “cast out four anchors by the stern, lightened the ship, and wished for the day.” It is curious that Lord Nelson is supposed to have gained the Battle of the Nile by adopting this plan; for, when breaking through the French line of battle, the latter reserved their fire until his ships should swing round at their anchors; which, of course, having anchored by the stern, did not take place, and they lost their opportunity of raking his ships.

The Malta stone when first quarried is soft, but hardens by exposure. It is commonly worked in lathes in various beautiful forms, such as vases, balustrades, &c. The Palazzos of the Grand Knights are rich in architecture, generally quadrangles. The churches and public buildings are also very fine, and some of the monuments of the knights are beautiful; altogether the city is very handsome. The ditch, before referred to, had been converted by the knights into a beautiful garden, the soil of which had all been conveyed from Sicily in ships; and the walks had been so skilfully laid out as to convey a strong impression of extent.

While at Malta I was recommended for the appointment of Pay-master of my regiment, which I accepted, my prospects of promotion during peace being remote; and I proceeded to England, on leave of absence, on board a post office packet. This vessel was obliged to put in for repairs at Gibraltar, where she was detained eight days; affording me a fine opportunity for examining that celebrated fortress.

The neck of land which connects it with Spain is only 400 yards wide, over which the rock rises with a perpendicular face to a great height. Two wide galleries—one over the other—have been excavated along this north face, through which port-holes have been cut out at intervals for cannon, commanding the neutral ground. The east side is impregnable from perpendicular rock. The defences towards the bay on the west and on the south sides are very strong. The length of the rock from north to south is about three miles. Toward the centre the high ridge of rock dips considerably, and here a battery has been placed; on visiting which I found about 100 wild monkeys chattering. They jumped down the eastern face of the rock, catching stunted shrubs at intervals with their tails, until they reached the bottom. They are not allowed to be shot. The population of Gibraltar—about 16,000—is entirely dependent on rain for their supply of fresh water; but from flat roofs, and tanks under every house, besides large public reservoirs, they have sufficient and to spare for supplying ships of war.

During my visit to England the 8th Regiment was removed from Malta to Corfù, one of the Ionian Islands, and previous to my rejoining it overland I made arrangements for a tour extending over several months through France, Switzerland, and Italy. Passing through Calais, Boulogne, Abbeville, Montreuil, Beauvois, and St. Denis, I entered Paris, where I remained, in company with a brother officer, for a fortnight. Being resolved to see everything remarkable which time would admit of during this tour, I worked hard, early and late. At this time (1819) Paris was not the beautiful city it has since become, and its population has now (1871) been more than doubled. The gutters were made in the centre of the streets, which were not kept over cleanly; there were no footpaths—nor was the improved system of road-making by McAdam then adopted. Oil lamps were attached to ropes suspended across the streets, and early risers ran the risk of encountering shower baths of questionable purity, ejected from the windows. Leaving Paris in a south-east direction, the ascent of Mount Jura commences from Dijon, a distance of about 380 miles from Paris. Many of the old Roman roads still remained, paved with large blocks of stone, which were very rough travelling, and planted on each side with poplars or cypress. On reaching the summit of the road over the Jura Mountains you come suddenly upon a most magnificent view—Mount Blanc, the range of Alps, the lake and city of Geneva, Lausanne, the exit of the river Rhone from the lake, and many other interesting objects. Days might be occupied in contemplating such a view. Below Geneva, one and a-half miles, the Rhone forms a junction with the Arve. At this place was fought one of Julius Cæsar’s great and decisive battles.

Leaving Geneva the road skirts the northern shore of the beautiful and extensive lake of that name, passing through the picturesque town of Lausanne. At the head of the lake lies the village of Vevay. Here I met with two Irish gentlemen of most agreeable manners, and highly intelligent; and their plans being very similar to my own, we agreed to travel together. It may be here remarked, that not until the end of two months afterwards was it discovered, from a casual observation, that all three had been school-fellows. Proceeding up the valley of the Rhone the celebrated Pass of the Simplon across the Alps, between Switzerland and Italy, is reached. After his great campaign in Italy, Napoleon I. ordered this fine road to be made. The gradients are so easy that a carriage may be trotted up nearly to the summit—above 8,000 feet over the sea level—passing through a few short tunnels, where rocky spurs of the mountain intervene. Here a monastery is situated, where the noble dogs are trained to search for lost travellers in the snow. No description is capable of conveying to the mind the magnificent scenery of the Alps, which is ever varying. At one point the road passes close to a perpendicular cleft in the mountain, said to be 1,000 feet deep, and only forty or fifty yards wide at the top. A rushing torrent can be heard from the bottom, but in total darkness.

After crossing the Simplon the first Italian town is Duomo Dossola; after which the road passes along the shore of Lake Maggiore—the scenery still being beautiful. The small island of Isola Bella is situated in this lake, and is quite unique. On its summit stands a palazzo, of Italian architecture, surrounded by three broad terraces, below each other, down to the water’s edge, and planted in a most tasteful and ornamental manner. Under the palace there is an extensive natural cave, in which is a spring of running water. This cave is formed into a grotto, embellished with coral and shell work, and must be a delightful retreat during the heat of summer.

On the shore opposite Isola Bella is situated the colossal bronze statue of Prince Carlo Borromeo, a Bishop or Cardinal. The pedestal is thirty-six feet high, and the statue seventy-two feet, in all 108 feet. The figure appears in Roman costume, with a Bible in the left hand. The interior is ascended by ladders, and it is said that eight persons could sit within the head. This statue was erected by the inhabitants of Milan in gratitude for the devoted labours of the Prince during the great plague which visited that city three or four centuries back.

Travellers enter Milan through a beautiful marble triumphal arch, erected in honour of Napoleon. The Duomo or Cathedral is a wonderful building of white marble, the façade of which was not completed until he had conquered Italy, although the remainder of the building, which has been very costly, had been commenced in the year 1386. At the top of each pinnacle, and in various recesses, are placed marble statues, said to be 3,000 in number. This building should be viewed at night during the full moon, when it has the appearance of ivory, and is a sight rarely equalled.

Being desirous of visiting Venice, I left my fellow-travellers at Milan; having arranged to rejoin them at Florence, I proceeded through the valley of the Po, by way of Bergamo, Breschia, Peschiera, Verona, and Padua, from whence I crossed the Lagoon to Venice.

The Province of Lombardy is very beautiful, situated between the Alps and Apennines, and watered by many rivers. The country generally is divided into square blocks, and extensively irrigated. These blocks are surrounded by mulberry trees planted at regular intervals, and grape vines are festooned from tree to tree. The fruit, being ripe at this time, presented a rich and lovely scene. The fertility of the soil, consequent upon irrigation, is very great, producing generally three crops annually. The culture of silk is very valuable in many respects. It employs a large number of women and children at their own homes, and the annual export of silk, raw and manufactured, amounts to about four millions sterling.

Venice is built on a number of small islets, and partly on piles, and is situated in the centre of a large lagoon at the head of the Adriatic Sea, from which the lagoon is separated by two narrow strips of land stretching from opposite shores, leaving a narrow channel between for ships to enter, which is strongly fortified. Instead of streets there are very numerous canals; and horses and carriages being useless, the inhabitants move about the streets in a picturesque description of boats called “gondolas.” The Palace of the Doges and the Cathedral of St. Marco are very fine buildings. The former is connected with the Hall of Justice by Lord Byron’s “Bridge of Sighs.” The monuments of the Doges, the paintings, and the Grecian antique statues collected here, are beautiful. In the Palazzo Manfrini there are many valuable paintings. The three portraits by Georgione, so greatly extolled by Lord Byron in his “Beppo,” are here. A curious anecdote respecting that poem has been related. It is said to have originated in a bet. A literary party, including Lord Byron, Sir Walter Scott, Tom Moore, and some foreigners of distinction, were dining together at Venice, when the conversation turned upon the flexibility or inflexibility of modern languages for the purposes of “colloquial poetry.” A general opinion was expressed that the English language was the least adapted. Lord Byron, however, maintained the contrary, and proposed a bet to produce a short poem in that style, within twenty-four hours, against any other like poem that could be found in any language. The bet was accepted, and resulted in his writing “Beppo.” The umpire declared that Lord Byron had won his wager.

Leaving Venice, the road to Florence passes through Ferrara and Bologna. Here the Campo Santo, or burial ground, is worth visiting; it contains many handsome monuments, and the gateway at the entrance is fine—the pillars of which are surmounted by colossal marble statues of “Time” and “Death.” Exquisite paintings are also to be seen here.

Crossing the Apennines, you pass a spot called Pietra Mala, where gas escapes from the earth through small fissures, which were burning at the time. The flame did not rise above five or six inches, but varies according to the state of the atmosphere, and it spread over about half an acre of ground.

I rejoined my fellow-travellers at Florence, where I remained ten days. This is a most delightful city, containing a variety of interesting objects. The Palazzo Pitti—the then Archducal residence—contains some of the most valuable paintings and sculptures to be found anywhere—the latter including the Venus de Medicis and Apollo Belvedere. Costly works in Mosaics and Cameos are produced at Florence, where artists in such works are very skilful. The Duomo, or Cathedral, is a fine building, and the fountains are ornamental.

Passing through Arezzo, Trasimene (the scene of a great battle), Perugia, Spoleto, Terni, you enter Rome—the Eternal City. The travellers here remained a fortnight working hard to examine the objects of highest interest. The first attraction was the Cathedral of St. Peter, which took 150 years to build, at a cost of forty-five millions of crowns; and here you are lost in wonder at the magnitude of its proportions, 569 feet long and 487 feet high. On the right hand, as you enter, you see a baptismal font, supported by two angels of a miniature size to appearance, compared with other objects around; but when you approach them they are colossal. In the nave there are twelve elevated recesses, in each of which stands a statue of one of the Apostles. A ladder stood against one of them, to enable a workman to do some repairs. As he stood in the recess his head reached to the knee of the statue. The size of each object is so admirably adjusted that nothing seems disproportioned. There are twelve side-chapels—six on each side of the nave; and over each altar is placed a copy, in Mosaic, of some celebrated painting. They measured fifteen feet by twelve feet high. The first examined by our travellers was a copy of the transfiguration, by Raphael. One of them, who had long promised himself a feast in viewing that picture, was in raptures, and it was some time before he discovered that it was a Mosaic copy—the original being in the Vatican. The High Altar, an elevation, I think, of 104 feet, is grand. In the Piazza in front, 1,000 feet long, stands an ancient obelisk brought from Egypt, being a single piece of granite, eighty-three feet high, and two handsome fountains; the piazza being enclosed on two sides by stately semi-circular colonnades of four columns abreast, sixty feet high, and 372 in number.

The next object of attraction was the Colosseum. The place which once echoed the shouts of 100,000 persons was now silent. It should be viewed by moonlight. It is a very ancient and wonderful structure. The Vatican is an extensive pile of buildings, situated close to St. Peter’s Church. When our travellers reached the principal entrance, the hall was crowded, and they saw Pope Pius VII. descending the staircase, leaning on Cardinal Gonsalvi. The crowd all knelt except the three strangers, who stood uncovered, to whom the Pope made a distinct bow.

The treasures of art contained in the Vatican are so numerous as to baffle description. The studios of Canova and Thorvaldsen were visited, as also those of the most skilful artists in Mosaics and Cameos. Many of the antiquities deserve close inspection—the Columns of Antonine and Trajan; the Triumphal Arches of Septimus Severus, Titus, and Constantine; the Capitol and Tarpeian Rock; the Temples of Concord, Jupiter Stater, Anthony and Faustina, and of Peace, the prison in which St. Peter was confined.

From Rome to Naples you pass through Frascati, Velletri, Frosinone, Pontecorvo, and Capua, once the winter quarters of Hannibal and his army. Shortly after leaving Rome you cross the Pontine Marshes, extending south about thirty or forty miles, which infect the air to such a degree in summer as to resemble a plague. Although apparently fertile, it is almost depopulated, and with few habitations. The malaria arises from stagnant swamps, and their few inhabitants are wretched objects, emaciated and pot-bellied, generally dying prematurely from dropsy. Few efforts in modern times had been made to drain them, the resources of the Pontifical Government being absorbed in unnecessary churches and processions.

A large body of banditti, generally prisoners, escaped from the galleys, and then, supposed to number about 400, infested the neighbouring mountains; and several gibbets were seen at intervals on the road, at places where murders had been committed by them. A few days previously they entered the town of Tivoli and carried off two of the principal inhabitants, for whose ransom they demanded 3,000 crowns, and the Government seemed quite unable to suppress those disorders.

The situation of Naples, with its magnificent Bay, is much to be admired. The Royal “Museum Borbonico” contains objects of the highest interest—a vast number of articles of ancient glass, mostly Egyptian, Sicilian Vases, &c.; and the collections from Herculaneum and Pompeii, consisting of ancient instruments, utensils, female ornaments, and household articles found in those cities, and recently removed here from the museum at Portici, are quite unique. The Grottos of Posillipo and del Cane are close to Naples. In the latter, a noxious gas is so powerful that nothing living can exist within it. Dogs held by cords entering into it four or five feet become insensible, and are dragged out. The tomb of Virgil is near this place. The ancient manuscripts brought from Herculaneum are like pieces of charcoal about a foot long. I saw a person trying to unroll one of them. He used an apparatus like a miniature windlass, with a number of fine threads hanging from the barrel, under which the manuscript was placed. When the end of the roll was found, those threads were attached to it by means of scraps like goldbeaters’ leaf, and then most carefully wound up until more scraps were required. Many gaps were left, and in most cases the task was hopeless. I was informed that the matter hitherto deciphered from those papyri was not of much interest.

An early visit was made to Herculaneum and Pompeii, on Mount Vesuvius. After being buried in lava or ashes for 1,600 years their discovery was remarkable. A nobleman residing near Portici, a spot of high elevation, thought that if he could penetrate the various beds of lava by sinking a shaft he might find water. After sinking about seventy feet, the workmen came upon a flight of marble steps, which, being followed, led into a theatre in Herculaneum. There had been a statue near this place, which had been thrown down, and in the lava which had flown over it was found a fine cast of the statue. The theatre was excavated, and some other buildings, but the city having been destroyed by lava, it was too costly to make very extensive excavations, and everything perishable was destroyed by the burning lava.

Pompeii had been buried in ashes, and was situated on a plain, at the foot of Vesuvius. A vineyard had been planted over its site. On ploughing the land nearly a century back, the workmen were obstructed by a stone wall; and on excavations being made, houses were discovered which proved to be part of the ancient city of Pompeii. When visited by me a large portion had been cleared. Its overthrow had evidently taken the inhabitants by surprise, for many skeletons were found in the houses. One of them had been laid prostrate on his face, with a bunch of keys in one hand and some coins in the other. Many signs and names over shops remained, and in the streets paved with lava the ruts of cart wheels were visible. Fresco paintings on the walls still remained; and also the inscriptions on tombs in the burial-ground. There were some temples, but of no great magnitude, and the houses generally had but one story.

The next visit was made to Vesuvius, and I having taken leave with regret of my fellow-travellers and school-fellows, whose journey terminated at Naples, proceeded to the Mount, accompanied by three foreign gentlemen—a Russian, a Pole, and a Dane. At this time (1819) the eruption of the volcano was very active, and an English naval officer had his arm broken on the previous day by a falling stone, owing to an unexpected change of wind; it being necessary during eruptions to approach the crater on the windward side. The party slept for a few hours at a hermitage half way up the ascent, in order to obtain a view of the rising sun over the Bay of Naples, which is certainly a most glorious sight. From this place the ascent is very rough—over sharp-pointed, heated lava; a stream of which, about six feet wide and four miles long, was then flowing, falling over a cliff and filling a valley beyond. Seen in the dark it was a bright red colour, but by daylight it was of a dull dark colour. A piece of it was scraped out, and the impression of a coin was made on it. The crater was nearly half a mile in diameter, and threw up large stones and ashes to a great height, accompanied by a fearfully roaring noise. The travellers were enabled to look down towards the bottom of the crater, but from the confusion of flames, gases, and smoke, no correct idea could be formed of its depth. The stream of lava was flowing from a hole at the side of the cone. The stones thrown up generally fell nearly perpendicularly, but the ashes are blown to leeward, generally towards the east, where the descent is extremely steep, and attended with some little danger. The ascent of the mount occupies several hours, but the descent on this side is effected with great rapidity. The travellers agreed to attempt it. You step with one foot on deep fine ashes, which slide down with you twenty or thirty feet; you then put down the other foot, sliding down in like manner, and so on alternately until you reach the bottom. The danger consists in over-balancing yourself, when you must roll down to the bottom—some 5,000 or 8,000 feet, I think—but by holding your head and shoulders well back you avoid this.

From Naples I travelled alone through Calabria and Apulia, across the Southern Apennines to the Adriatic Sea—having passed over the place where so many bushels of rings were collected from the fingers of the Roman senators who had fallen in battle. On my arrival at Barletta, I found a British gun-boat bound for Corfù, in which I embarked for that island.

This most delightful tour, which can never be forgotten, was thus accomplished. Travellers seeking pleasure will visit France; those partial to magnificent scenery and tranquillity, Switzerland; but for antiquities, and the arts, you must visit Italy.

I rejoined my regiment at Corfù, one of the Ionian Islands, situated opposite the coast of Albania, where the celebrated Ali Pasha, of Janina, nominally, ruled as Viceroy under the Sultan of Constantinople. He was said to possess in his treasury £8,000,000 sterling, and at that time contemplated shaking off the yoke of Turkey. He requested an interview with Colonel (subsequently Sir) Charles Napier, then on the staff at Corfù, and afterwards Commander-in-Chief in India; and it was believed that the Pasha proposed to him to raise and command a military force to accomplish his object. It was further said that Colonel Napier agreed to the proposal, provided the sum of £1,000,000 sterling was placed at his disposal for the purpose. This, however, the Pasha declined, being very parsimonious. He shortly afterwards rebelled, and lost his treasure and his life.

The citadel of Corfù was strong, but its value as a military post was doubtful, as fleets could easily pass into the Adriatic unperceived during the night. The chief products of the island were olive oil and wine. At this time a violent earthquake took place in the middle of the night. I was awakened from a sound sleep by the shaking of my bed; the church bells were ringing from the concussions; and the inhabitants were screaming and rushing into the streets. Many walls were fractured, but no houses were overthrown at Corfù. This shock, however, was very powerful throughout the Ionian Islands, and nearly 800 houses were overthrown or seriously damaged by it at Zante. Shortly afterwards, Colonel Sir Patrick Ross was desirous of making an extensive tour, to occupy a year, through Egypt, Nubia, Palestine, Asia Minor, Constantinople, Thessaly, Macedonia, and Peloponnesus, and invited Colonel Duffy, Dr. Cartan, and myself to join him. We all agreed to do so, and our plans being arranged, we applied to the Lord High Commissioner for leave of absence. He declined to grant it, to our great regret, on the ground that, as the proposed tour would be through countries subject to Turkey and Greece, and the latter country being then in a state of insurrection, we should be subject to insults, which might embarrass the English Government.

The Greek insurrection having now become very general, the inhabitants of Zante manifested a strong disposition to join in the revolt. The 8th Regiment was suddenly ordered to embark for that island, having only four hours’ notice. The officers had only time to pack up their portmanteaus, leaving the remainder of their luggage behind, and some officers who had been out shooting were obliged to embark in their shooting-dresses.

The regiment arrived at Zante after a passage of eight days in a ship densely crowded, which had to put back to renew its supply of water. It rained nearly the whole time, and the heat below being intolerable, the greater number remained on deck night and day. At this time the insurrection was in full activity, and the Zantiates in a state of great excitement. Shortly afterwards a cannonading was heard at sea, and a Turkish ship of war came in sight, chased by sixteen Greek armed merchant ships. The Turk, having been crippled in his rigging, found that he could not weather a certain headland, and observing the red coats of a few soldiers, who had been sent there to maintain the quarantine laws, he ran his ship ashore to obtain their protection. He had fought a most gallant action. For nearly two hours those sixteen ships had in succession been pouring in broadsides, raking in crossing his bows, firing again on the opposite side, and again raking in crossing his stern, and yet he never struck his colours. When the cannonading had ceased, the peasantry commenced firing on the Turk with their long muskets. And when the soldiers were pushing them back—forming a cordon—they began firing on the troops. I happened to be there mounted as a spectator, and recommended the young officer to collect his men on a neighbouring hill, and defend himself as well as he could, while I galloped into town, four miles distant, for reinforcements. These soon arrived, and quickly dispersed the mob. Three soldiers, however, had been killed and their bodies barbarously mutilated.

When the report reached Corfù, Sir Frederick Adam came down, declared martial law, and held a Court of High Commission under the Venetian laws, which had been guaranteed to the Islanders; and after a very patient investigation, selected four of the principal ringleaders, who were hung two hours after sentence was passed.

The Ionian Greeks had always been in the habit of carrying long muskets and pistols, even when pursuing their daily labour. Sir Frederick Adam immediately issued a proclamation for disarming the population. In every district, town, and village the inhabitants were ordered, under severe penalties, to bring in their arms, which were piled in heaps and burned in the presence of English officers appointed for that purpose. A few years previously, the French, with a garrison of three regiments, had attempted the same thing and failed.

Some time afterwards I was seated at a window overlooking the bay, and heard a distant heavy cannonading; presently a perfect cloud of ships came in sight with all sail crowded, which proved to be Greek armed merchantmen, numbering ninety sail. They were pursued by the Turkish fleet, consisting of sixty men of war, including four sail of the line and twelve heavy frigates. Just as the two fleets were abreast of the bay, a violent squall of wind came on, and the Turkish fleet entered the bay, allowing the Greeks to escape. This they should not have done, as, in such weather, heavy ships possess very decided advantages.

About this time, Major-General Sir John Malcolm, K.C.B., arrived at Zante from Persia, at which Court he had been British Minister. He accepted an invitation to become an honorary member of the mess of the 8th Regiment, and remained about a fortnight. He related many interesting particulars respecting his journey across the Syrian Desert to Cairo in his own curricle, he being the first person who had ever travelled this route by such a conveyance. He said he had encountered no difficulties, and had found it a most convenient and comfortable mode of travelling.

The Zante currant is a most valuable product, and is there extensively cultivated. There are two parallel ranges of limestone hills in that island, and the valley between is a rich black loam, varying from three to four miles wide, and twenty-five miles long, or from seventy-five to 100 square miles. This valley is wholly cultivated for that plant. When the fruit is ripe, oblong patches of ground, about twenty feet by thirty, are carefully levelled, wetted, plastered over, and when dry, swept clean from dust; the fruit is spread to dry on these in single layers, and awnings are drawn over them at night to protect them from the dews. The black surface attracts the heat; the fruit is generally dry and fit to pack for market in about ten days, in hogsheads weighing 1,000 lbs. (a milliardo), and is usually repacked in England in small boxes.

After passing a year at Zante, the military authorities were desirous of removing the 8th Regiment to Cephalonia, but the necessary shipping not being available, Captain Hamilton of the “Cambrian” Frigate, volunteered to take them there, inviting half the officers into his own cabin, the remainder being guests in the wardroom.

The regiment landed at Argostoli, the capital of the island, situated on a fine harbour—Colonel Charles Napier being then Commandant. It is the largest of the Ionian group, and produces the Zante currant, wine, and olives. An elevated range of hills divides the island from north-east to south-west, cutting off the two sides from intercourse with each other, there being neither roads across the range or wheel carriages. Colonel Napier, with his usual energy, caused a fine road of easy gradients to be made over the range, and induced some of the inhabitants to introduce wheel carriages, greatly to their own benefit. There is a remarkable Cyclopian wall, with twelve projecting towers, across the neck of a peninsula, about a quarter of a mile in length, in the northern part of the island. One stone measured nineteen feet long, four feet deep, and four feet high. Three courses of the wall and towers, twelve feet high, remained perfect. It was probably about 3,000 years old.

A party, including myself, proceeded to visit Ithaca, a narrow channel of about seven miles separating it from Cephalonia. This visit was full of interest.

Ithaca is a small island in shape like an hour-glass. The far-famed castle of Ulysses is situated on this elevated narrow neck, and commands a most magnificent view, second to none in the eyes of persons of classical tastes. From that spot you behold Sappho’s Leap (Cape Leucadia); the River Meander, on the Coast of Epirus; Cape Lepanto; the snow-capped mountains of Albania—Mounts Parnassus, Pindas, and Olympus; the Suitors’ Island, Ulysses’ Cave, and the spot where the Fountain of Arethusa is situated in Ithaca. Of the ruins of Ulysses Castle there are still considerable remains. The walls are Cyclopian, the stones of which weigh generally eight or ten tons each, and form all sorts of angles so admirably joined together as to present a level outer surface, with very small openings at the joints, and without any cement, somewhat like a tesselated pavement. This is the most antique description of Cyclopian wall. Those of more recent periods are cut square or oblong with smooth faces, and in the most recent the edges are levelled.

It was an ancient custom of the Greeks to bury their dead wearing their trinkets, and coins were placed in their mouths to pay their ferry across the Styx to Charon. These were of gold, silver, or copper, according to the position in life of deceased. A place of interment was discovered not far from the castle; it was a bare, smooth, sandstone rock of considerable extent. The graves were excavated about three feet deep, and the stone slabs covering them were so accurately fitted, the joints also being covered with grass, that it required the most skilful and practised eye to detect them. An English officer stationed on the island had made a most valuable collection of these articles. He separated from his most choice assortment the coins of the period of Alexander the Great, as being “modernissimo”—too recent to deserve a place in it.

Shortly after returning to Argostoli, a severe shock of an earthquake took place. The regiment was standing in a line on parade, and the line had a serrated appearance. The tiles on the roofs of houses were moving, and a mounted officer had to dismount his horse which was trembling in every limb. The damages occasioned, however, were not very serious.

About this time, Lord Byron arrived at Argostoli in his yacht from Italy, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton, Mr. Trelawney, Count Gamba, and an Italian medical gentleman. He retained his yacht for about three weeks, and frequently entertained the officers of the regiment on board, sometimes until late hours. He was very temperate on such occasions; drinking claret and water, or soda water. His conversation was usually full of interest. Trelawney used to relate many of his wild stories during his residence for some years in Arabia, amongst the Wahabee tribes. One evening some one referred to Lord Byron having swam across the Hellespont, from Sestos to Abydos; but Trelawney made light of it, and challenged Lord Byron to swim with him across the channel from Cephalonia to Ithaca. The challenge was accepted, but afterwards Trelawney drew back. At the end of three weeks, Lord Byron discharged his yacht, and took a villa about four miles from the town. He usually rode in in the afternoon, and took his wine at the mess, after which he frequently joined small parties of officers in their rooms to smoke cigars. Lord Byron received a letter from Lady Byron at his villa, when two of the officers were with him, informing him of the illness of his daughter Ada. He shed tears on that occasion, and appeared to be deeply affected.

At the mess the conversation usually turned upon the Greek insurrection then raging, and the character of their leaders. These were generally unprincipled men, who had numerous followers while they obtained abundance of plunder; but when that attraction failed they were deserted for more fortunate commanders. Numerous bodies, in the field one day, were scattered the next; and the central Government had no organized force on which they could rely.

Lord Byron was fully satisfied as to the correctness of this description. He said, however, that he felt so deeply interested in their cause from admiration of the ancient glories of their race, that he had determined to place himself and all his means at their disposal. As to the manner, however, in which he could best accomplish his object, he was desirous of receiving advice. The general opinion was that he should raise a permanent force, to be regularly paid and trained, to be always held at the disposal of the central Government.

Some time previous to this, the Suliotes, an Albanian tribe of Greeks, obtained information that Ali Pasha of Yanina was preparing to burn their villages as a punishment for some outrage they had committed; the whole population, therefore, abandoned their homes, and took refuge in Cephalonia. The small Peninsula of Asso was assigned for their temporary residence, and there they encamped. Their number, including women and children, was about 2,000, and they could muster above 400 fighting men. These readily entered into Lord Byron’s service, and formed the nucleus of the force he afterwards placed at the disposal of the Greek Government. They were remarkably fine men, and their costume was quite picturesque.

Dr. Kennedy, the staff surgeon at Cephalonia, was very desirous of delivering a course of lectures on the “Evidences of Christianity” in the presence of Lord Byron, who accepted his invitation for that purpose; and Colonel Napier offered one of his rooms for the occasion. There were only eight persons invited to be present—namely, Colonel Napier, Lord Byron, Dr. Kennedy, Colonel Duffy, Lieutenant Kennedy of the Royal Engineers, Dr. Cartan, a Commissariat Officer, and myself. The Doctor’s lectures were most interesting and valuable, and Lord Byron occasionally argued on various points. He did not believe, however, in prophecy, in miracles, or in the inspiration of the Holy Scriptures; and at the conclusion of the third lecture he excused himself from further attendance, complimenting Dr. Kennedy by saying that he was the most gentleman-like Christian with whom he had ever held a discussion upon the subject. The other persons named continued their attendance to the end of the course of eight lectures.

At this time I obtained leave of absence to England, and Lord Byron entrusted me with the manuscript of the last portion of any poem he ever wrote, namely, the three last cantos of “Don Juan,” to be delivered to Sir John Cam. Hobhouse. I had a handsome portable brass bedstead which Lord Byron was desirous of having, and on that bedstead he died, in the fortress of Missalonghi, opposite the coast of Cephalonia, which withstood a long siege by the Turks.

It may here be mentioned the very general opinion held as to the character of the belligerents. The Greeks were considered a lawless race, in whose veracity or integrity no reliance could be placed. The Turks, on the contrary, although sometimes fanatical, were held to be a people of integrity, on whose word you might rely. Neither, however, were wanting in bravery.

The 8th Regiment was ordered home, and was stationed in the Citadel of Plymouth in the year 1826, where I rejoined it. While there, the great storm took place, by which twenty-seven ships were wrecked in Plymouth harbour, and the military barrack partially unroofed. At one spot eight ships were so jammed together that it was difficult to distinguish the wreck of one from the other. The storm commenced towards evening with great fury, and while I was on my way to the mess-room I met an old brother officer hurrying to get on board his ship before dark, as it was to sail next morning for Demerara. I persuaded him to dine with me at the mess, and that night his ship parted in two at the water-line, the upper works being new.

During the next year the regiment proceeded to Glasgow. At a previous period it had been employed there in suppressing some riots, and had fallen into bad odour. This had not then been forgotten. Great distress, however, prevailed at this time, and the officers and men subscribed a day’s pay towards their relief, which created a most amicable feeling towards them.

After passing a very agreeable year in Glasgow, the regiment proceeded to Londonderry, in the north of Ireland. While there, the great Ordnance Survey of Ireland, under Colonel Colby, R.E., was in progress; and a base line eight miles long—said to be the longest ever previously accomplished—was then completed. As a great scientific work it is very remarkable. It was necessarily on a dead level, bearing east and west, and was constructed by a combination of different metals, sliding in grooves, so that their expansion or contraction, caused by changes of temperature, indicated the true medium.

The great length of this line enabled the surveyors to take very distant bearings with perfect accuracy. At the same time, Mr. Drummond, of the Royal Engineers, discovered the celebrated light named after him, by means of which, exhibited from the summit of a high mountain in the County Tipperary, its accurate bearing was taken from the base line—a distance of 150 English miles. By this means, also, a bearing in Scotland was obtained for the first time, thus tying in the surveys of Scotland and Ireland. The survey of Ireland was constructed on a very large scale, and included the acreage of arable, pasture, mountain, and bog lands, besides being a geological survey. And it is a curious fact, that when the periodical work of twenty or thirty parties were sent in, the chief engineer sitting in his office could detect the slightest error in any one of them, and send it back for correction, so that the whole should tie in with the most perfect accuracy.

Leaving Londonderry, the regiment was next quartered at Enniskillen, situated on Loch Erne. The scenery in this neighbourhood is beautiful, and the hospitality of its numerous gentry could not be surpassed. Sir Henry Brooke, Bart., had a splendid mansion, including forty bedrooms. There were fox-hounds and harriers, and the hunting parties generally included three or four ladies. There was excellent shooting, and any number of guns with gamekeepers; good salmon and trout fishing, with plenty of tackle; and billiard tables. There was a succession of company during the season, each party being invited for three or four days, with horses and carriages for their use. The tenantry had been living on the estate for three or four generations, many of them wealthy, and to crown all the host and hostess were most amiable and accomplished persons.

A general order to the troops serving in Ireland was issued at this time, directing an officer and two sergeants from each regiment to proceed to Dublin to be instructed in the broadsword exercise, which they were afterwards to teach to the officers and men of their respective regiments. I volunteered to proceed on this duty, and became an honorary member of the mess of the Rifle Brigade. A very eminent swordsman, Mr. Michael Angelo, was the instructor at the Riding School of the Royal Barracks. The instruction lasted for four months, and was a very fine exercise, bringing every muscle into action. But the regimental drills afterwards were very troublesome, and occupied much time.

From Enniskillen the regiment proceeded to Newry, and not long afterwards from thence to Dublin. This station was very popular with the officers, from its very extensive circle of good society. At this time I had turned my thoughts towards the Australian Colonies, and sought advice from Sir Thos. Brisbane, in whose brigade I had formerly served. He strongly recommended New South Wales, of which colony he had recently been Governor. It may here be mentioned that when an honorary member of the 8th mess in Lower Canada, when encamped on the frontier of the United States, his conversation frequently turned upon the subject of astronomy, and he expressed a wish, when his military services were not required, to proceed to New South Wales, for the purpose of observing the transit of the planet Venus. This wish was gratified; and he caused the observatory at Parramatta, near Sydney, to be erected for that purpose.

During the year 1829, I came to the decision of retiring from the army, after a military service of upwards of twenty-two years. I was permitted to sell a company, but was delayed for four months, during the last illness of His Majesty George IV., as no commissions could be issued until the following reign. It is hardly necessary to say that parting from many old and valued friends was very painful to me, and previous to my departure the Colonel of my regiment, the late Hon. Sir George Cathcart, accompanied by the two Majors, waited on me and presented me with a handsome silver breakfast service in the name of the regiment.

The colony of Western Australia was being formed at this time; and the large concessions of land offered to the settlers by the Government on easy terms induced me to select that colony for my future residence. Two officers of the Rifle Brigade, Captains Molloy and Byrne, proposed to accompany me. And it was agreed that they should join me in purchasing a ship, to be loaded with wooden houses and boats, and to convey the three parties and their establishments to the new settlement.

I proceeded to Gothenburgh, in Sweden, for that purpose, where a fine ship of 500 tons was purchased, and during her repairs a cargo of wooden houses was framed and loaded. I then proceeded with a fine Swedish crew to Christiansand in Norway, where a large number of boats were shipped. The character and scenery both of Sweden and Norway reminded me of Nova Scotia, from their extensive pine forests, numerous lakes, and granite rocks. Intemperance was prevalent from the use of ardent spirits, the climate being cold; and the observation occurred to me that in warmer, wine-producing countries intoxication is much less frequent.

The ship proceeded to Cowes, in the Isle of Wight, and I by Post-Office Packet to Harwich, on the coast of England. I travelled from thence into Derbyshire, where the family of my affianced wife resided at Holme Hall, and was there happily married. I had been desirous of avoiding the frequent inconvenience of moving about with a family while in the army, and my wife was willing to share my fortunes in Australia.

From the delay referred to, arising from the King’s illness, I did not arrive in Western Australia until June, 1830. The passage from England was favourable, although tedious, only touching at the Cape de Verde Islands. And on arrival at the anchorage at Fremantle, I and my wife were hospitably received at the house of Mr. George Leake, the leading merchant at that time.

An entirely new career now lay before me, but I had health and strength for the undertaking. I was fortunate in finding shelter in a colony only founded the previous year. My less fortunate predecessors at an earlier period, finding neither houses or sheds, had to resort to tents; and their handsome furniture, including satin and gilt chairs, harps, grand pianos (some of them afterwards gutted to make cupboards, &c.), lay exposed to all weathers on the beach. My first object was to find land for a homestead within a moderate distance from Perth, the capital. But such lands had all been already selected; and although I was entitled according to regulations to select 27,000 acres, in virtue of property and servants introduced, I found it necessary to purchase 5,000 acres on the Swan River, about nine miles from Perth. The Governor, Sir James Stirling, had a summer residence adjoining this land, the use of which he offered to me until I could erect some temporary accommodation, and the offer was thankfully accepted.

The purchased land was on the navigable part of the River Swan for boats, and my luggage and stores were conveyed to it by contract.

I had brought out as servants nineteen souls, including one family; and now hard work was to be done, in which I took my full share. In a short time, temporary accommodation, including a small cottage, store, and huts for the men, were erected; the luggage and stores under shelter, and a commencement made in clearing land for tillage.

Troubles had to be surmounted at an early period. Not many months had elapsed when an alarm of fire was given at a late hour one evening, during my absence at Perth, and the store, containing from twenty to thirty tons of provisions, luggage, furniture, &c., was in a blaze. As the roof was of thatch and the building contained some gunpowder, it was dangerous to attempt saving anything—all was destroyed. The dwelling was within thirty feet of it, but the wind blew from it, and a providential shower of rain then falling saved that building. The origin of the fire was not discovered, but a discontented servant was suspected. His passage from England had been provided, and he was under a written engagement, at moderate wages, to serve for three years; this he endeavoured to break without repaying his passage-money. However, he was discharged, but was afterwards convicted, in another service, on a felonious charge and transported.

There were some very fine alluvial flats, on the banks of the Swan, on which no live stock had been depastured. In conjunction with another gentleman I arranged, during the following season, to mow the land for hay, at that time worth £14 per ton. Three stacks, of fifty tons each, were made; but the aborigines, not having seen anything of the sort before, were desirous of witnessing the effect of a large fire, and stuck firebrands into them—which made short work. They were all destroyed.

The Governor, Sir James Stirling, undertook to lead an exploring party to examine the country between Perth and King George’s Sound, which was then unknown. I and some other gentlemen entitled to select land accompanied him, also some surveyors. A couple of drays drawn by oxen, and loaded with provisions and some surveying instruments, accompanied the party. The character of the country was very variable. After a few days’ travelling, the cattle fed on some poisonous plants and several of them died, at our camping place, during the night. One of the drays, some provisions and instruments, were necessarily abandoned there. Shortly afterwards, we struck on a river, then named the Williams, situated in a fine and apparently extensive district. Some of the party proceeded up the valley about twenty miles the following day, and camped for the night. I and another gentleman, however, strolled a couple of miles from the camp, in a southerly direction, and returning northerly, we felt satisfied that the river would bring us up and that we could not miss the camp, even at night. The bed of the river at that time, however, was a succession of pools, and the long intervals between them were thickly grassed. We thus crossed the river without knowing it, after dusk, over one of those intervals, and lost ourselves. Thinking there might be some extraordinary bend of the river, we walked on until midnight, and then lay down to rest. There was no water and nothing eatable except a morsel of cheese the size of a walnut, which we divided. After consultation, we started at daylight on a due west course, hoping to cut the track made by Sir James Stirling’s party travelling south. This we happily discovered towards evening, and rested for the night. On the evening of the third day we rejoined the main party, which had been searching for us, and had almost given us up as lost.

It was arranged that on the following day those entitled to select land should again proceed up the Williams River for that purpose, accompanied by a surveyor, Sir James Stirling and the remainder of the party proceeding in a south direction to accomplish the chief object of the expedition. On reaching a selected point on the river, the measurement was to commence. The surveying instruments, chains, &c., had been abandoned where the bullocks died. The surveyor had a compass, but distances had to be paced. Long frontages to the river were desirable, and long legs possessed an advantage—subject, however, to a final survey, when any surplus would be struck off from the back land. The general course of the river was from S.W. to N.E., but very winding. A tree was marked on the river’s bank, from whence the surveyor started due east, the paces being counted; but after pacing a mile, the river still receding, a due north course was taken to strike the river again, and so on alternately east and north, until the required due east direction was attained. This process gave me about ten miles of river frontage, although the due east measurement was scarcely half that distance.

The Williams district was undulating, well grassed, and the soil in the vicinity of the river excellent, producing abundance of sandal wood. A mob of about 200 kangaroos was started during the day, and some of the party had a good gallop after them. About three days were occupied in making the selections, after which the surveyor was instructed on his return to Perth to explore a new country westward of that already travelled.

The party started accordingly on a west course, and crossed Sir James Stirling’s track. On the third day we passed over the Darling range—an elevation under 2,000 feet—a rough, stony country, heavily timbered, but with little arable land. The following day we reached the coast, at the mouth of the River Murray. This was the third day the party had been without water, and the men made a rush to the river to drink, but found the water to be salt. No efforts could avail to dissuade two of the party from drinking immoderately, and one of them shortly afterwards became insane. Fresh water was soon found, and after two more days the party reached Perth. The character of the land traversed on this occasion was very variable, but the proportion of bad country was in excess.

In the early stage of the colony the deficiency of a circulating medium was severely felt, and consequently few transactions could take place, except by means of barter. The Government regulations entitled settlers to claim land in consideration of the importation of servants, provisions, agricultural implements, live stock, &c.; but no claim could be made on account of capital in the shape of money. The settlers therefore invested almost the whole of their resources in such articles as would entitle them to claim land. If you required a team of horses, the person desirous of selling one did not want what you could offer in exchange, but wished for sheep. You then applied to an owner of sheep, who desired something you did not possess; and frequently two or three exchanges were necessary before you could procure the articles you wanted—generally losing something on each exchange.

Under such circumstances, I proposed a scheme for the formation of a local bank, and was ably assisted by Mr. George Leake and a few other friends possessing influence and property—but no cash.

We depended on the Commissariat issues for the Government expenditure for supplies of coin. The necessary nominal capital was subscribed, and the shareholders assembled to make the arrangements required for opening the bank. At their request, I undertook the management of it, with a Board of Directors. They issued their notes, and the benefits derived by the public became manifest immediately. The bank was very successful. A sufficient supply of coin was gradually obtained from the Government expenditure, and the shareholders for some time divided profits of forty per cent. on their nominal capital, which was simply the credit of their names.

The system which enabled settlers to obtain enormous grants of land was found in practice to be neither advantageous to those persons or to the colony. They could not make a profitable use of them; they became a drag upon their resources to meet necessary expenditure, and the lands were locked up from those who might have turned them to better account. One settler, Mr. Peel, obtained 250,000 acres, with a right under certain conditions to claim a like additional quantity of land. The early settlers introduced a large number of servants at their own expense, generally articled to serve for three years at moderate wages. Their employers were inexperienced, not knowing how to apply their labour to the best advantage. For a short time provisions reached famine prices, flour selling at two shillings and sixpence per pound. Servants would not then accept their discharges, but when prices fell they broke their engagements, and instances have occurred of masters having become the servants of their former ploughmen.

The local Bank had been in existence about five years, to the great benefit of the colony, when the Bank of Australasia proposed an amalgamation; and, after due consideration, it was thought advisable for the interests of the colony to secure the co-operation of that important corporation. The Manager sent from London died before the Bank was opened, and the management of the new Bank was conferred on me.

An opinion prevailed in the colony that the interests of religion would be greatly promoted were Western Australia erected into the See of a Bishop, and I proposed a scheme to create an endowment for that object by means of subscriptions of land, to which I contributed 500 acres. After an interval of several years the object was happily accomplished by the appointment of an excellent man, Dr. Matthew Hale, formerly Archdeacon of Flinders, in South Australia, to be the first Bishop of Western Australia.

After an experience of another five years the Bank of Australasia came to the conclusion that their business in Western Australia was too limited to justify their maintaining an isolated branch at Perth. It was therefore ordered to be closed, and I was offered the management of their branch at Adelaide, in South Australia, which I accepted. Thus it fell to my lot to open and also to close two Banks.

It was with feelings of much pain that I made up my mind to leave a colony in which I had resided for sixteen years. The interest felt in the formation and progress of a new settlement became a tie binding society together. Being situated on a western coast, where the sea breezes prevailed for nine months in the year, the climate was excellent; and, although the average of the land was of an inferior quality, yet there was abundance of rich land for purposes of tillage.

Previous to my departure, I was gratified by receiving a flattering address, signed by all the members of the Executive Council, the magistrates, clergy, and many others, testifying to my zeal in promoting objects of public utility.

In April, 1846, I and my family arrived in Adelaide, and assumed charge of the Bank of Australasia at that place, at that time temporarily situated in Hindley Street. A new and excellent site was obtained in King William Street shortly afterwards, on which handsome premises were erected. This ground, about ninety feet square, was purchased in exchange for 640 acres of excellent country land. To avoid the difficulty of proving the signatures of a corporate body frequently changing, the mode of conveyance chosen, being remarkable, is here mentioned. It was the old feudal system of “livery of seizin.” I went upon the land, pulled a twig off a tree, which I presented to the purchaser in the presence of witnesses, using a few formal words. The transaction was recorded and registered, and thus conferred an indefeasible title in law.

At the period referred to, Adelaide was in a very primitive state and I actually lost myself for a short time within its boundaries. The streets and pathways were generally in their natural state, and from the traffic in wet weather foot passengers were up to their ankles in mud. St. John’s Church was like a barn; and, on my appointment as warden, I collected a considerable sum to build a vestry, plaster the walls, and make other improvements.

No superior school had been established for the education of boys at that time, and I devoted all my spare time towards the attainment of that object. I assembled a meeting of gentlemen, representing various religious bodies, to consider the question, which met on two or three occasions. Several of them, however, strongly urged as a principle, that there should be no religious teaching whatever. This principle was rejected by a large majority. I then secured the co-operation of a committee of twelve gentlemen, of which I was elected chairman, who agreed to form a proprietary grammar school on Church of England principles, but open to all denominations. I collected £2,000 from eighty subscribers of £25 each, and after a delay of four or five months the school was at length opened in the school-room of Trinity Church. The Revs. W. J. Woodcock and James Farrell and Mr. G. W. Hawkes were most energetic coadjutors.

Shortly afterwards I suggested to Captain Allen—a munificent friend to education—that as the school had made a fair start, I hoped some of our wealthy friends would push it on, as I wished to secure a good site and erect buildings. In this he concurred, saying he would give £1,000 and thought Mr. Graham would do the same. I pointed out that Mr. Graham was in England and not accessible, but hinted that the £1,000 might be increased to £2,000, which Captain Allen at once agreed to. He afterwards increased his donations to upwards of £7,000.

The Lord Bishop of Adelaide arrived about this time from England. He had obtained a grant of £2,000, from the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, which he agreed to place at the disposal of the School Committee—provided accommodation in their new buildings was set apart for four theological students. This arrangement was concluded accordingly, and the school was afterwards, by Act of Parliament, incorporated as the “Church of England Collegiate School of St. Peter.”

A very valuable site of about thirty-seven acres of land close to Adelaide was secured, on which extensive and handsome buildings have been erected. The late Mr. DaCosta bequeathed a reversionary property to the Institution, valued at £23,000; and the late Dean Farrell bequeathed his estate, valued at £15,000, to the College, subject to a few annuities. The school has attained to a high reputation, many of its pupils having attained first-class honours at the English Universities, including the degrees of Wrangler at Cambridge, and its staff of masters is believed to be unsurpassed in the Southern Hemisphere.

Through the munificent liberality of Captain Allen a school for the education of the middle classes was also established, and suitable building erected in Pulteney-street, the property being vested in the then Governors of the Collegiate School, and on similar principles, the object being to cheapen the cost of education to suit the circumstances of that class. Mr. Masters endowed this school with three country sections of land; the Government of that day also contributing £500. The property of this Institution is worth about £3,000, and it has been eminently successful.

Having been formerly stationed in the Island of Zante, one of the Ionian Islands, I became aware of the great mercantile value of the Zante currant, and while in Western Australia succeeded in introducing the plant into that province. Its history was remarkable. After a long correspondence in establishing agency, the Curator of the Government Garden of St. Antonio, in Malta, received an application from London for a supply of cuttings, which reached him a month after the pruning season, but the request being urgent he pruned a second time. The cuttings were then rolled in damp flannel, packed, and soldered in a tin case, and forwarded to Dr. Hooker, Curator of Kew Gardens, near London. That gentleman planted them in a glazed case, but many months elapsed before an opportunity occurred to forward them to their destination. They at length reached Western Australia, but at the wrong season. However, Mr. Mackay, the Judge of the Supreme Court, had a conservatory in which they were planted and most carefully attended. In the following spring they were removed and planted out, the roots being like fine white Cambric threads; but in the second year a few tolerably strong shoots were obtained. To save time, the double system of budding and grafting was adopted on old grape vines, and in the following year about 400 rooted plants of the Zante currant were established. None other existed in Australia. Mr. McArthur, of New South Wales, wrote to request a few plants, which I had the pleasure of forwarding, and distributed others to several gentlemen in South Australia.

As kindred to the above it may be here noticed that, during my residence in Western Australia, in conjunction with Mr. Richard Nash, we formed a Vineyard Society, the object being to prepare and trench a nursery for vines, to procure a collection of the choicest varieties, to preserve their names and identity, and to distribute them gratis to all who engaged to plant them in trenched ground. Some gentlemen reduced the rents of their lands to their tenants in proportion to the extent of their vineyards. The Society procured a collection of 400 varieties from Mr. Busby’s vineyard, in New South Wales, but the progress in distributing plants was rather slow, until a few of the settlers produced wine, which gave a rapid impulse to the operations of the society, and within a few years some of them were enabled to distribute a pint of wine daily to the men in their employ. The society also published a pamphlet containing instructions for the formation and cultivation of vineyards and for making wine.

Some time after the Lord Bishop (Dr. Short) arrived in Adelaide, a Conference of the several Australian bishops was summoned to meet the Metropolitan at Sydney. A new dogma was declared at that conference to be an article of faith, after some opposition, namely, baptismal regeneration. The Bishop returned, and on the day previous to the annual meeting of the “Church Society” (the then governing body of the affairs of the Church of England in South Australia), the proceedings of the Sydney Conference became known. The Governor, Sir Henry Young, presided, and after routine business being disposed of, I strongly protested against the Sydney Conference assuming authority to impose a new article of faith in addition to the Thirty-nine Articles. Unfortunately, I had not had time to give notice of my intention or secure a seconder of my motion, and a pause ensued. Sir Henry Young then said that as it was not seconded he would not put it to the meeting, when Mr. G. S. Walters stood up and said he would not only second, but support it. Sir Henry immediately left the chair in anger, and retired—the Bishop then presiding. The meeting was greatly excited; but after some discussion, His Lordship promised to call a general meeting of the members of the church in a fortnight, to consider the subject, on which the business of the day terminated.

The meeting referred to was held in the Pulteney-street schoolroom, which was crowded, and the subject of the new dogma was fully discussed. The resolutions opposed to it were carried almost unanimously, there being only two or three persons who voted against them. These proceedings were afterwards commented upon with approval by the Archbishop of Canterbury in the House of Lords, and were similarly noticed in the House of Commons.

An address of thanks on this occasion, most respectably signed, was afterwards presented to myself and Mr. G. S. Walters.

At this time the position of the Church of England in the colonies was very unsatisfactory. The Ecclesiastical Laws of England were declared to have no force, and the Church appeared to be cast adrift. A meeting of the “Church Society” took place, at which a committee was appointed—consisting of Major Campbell, Messrs. G. W. Hawkes, R. B. Lucas, and myself, of which I was named chairman—to consider and report upon “the best means they could devise for drawing the clergy and laity into closer union.” The constitution of a Diocesan Synod appeared to me to meet the requirements of the case, and I drew up a full scheme to accomplish that object, which I submitted to the Committee, and afterwards laid before the “Church Society.” This scheme was considered to be extremely bold, as there was no precedent of such plan having been adopted previously by any branch of the Church of England, except some approach to it in the diocese of Toronto in Upper Canada; and the only guide for such a system was that of the Episcopal Church of America. The subject was discussed at great length, and for several months. It was adjourned, however, as the Bishop proposed proceeding to England, where he could consult the highest legal authorities, including the Attorney-General. The scheme was declared to be perfectly legal, and on His Lordship’s return to the colony it was inaugurated by a consensual compact, and has now, in the year 1871, been in operation during seventeen annual sessions with the happiest results, and has been also adopted in all the other Australian colonies and New Zealand. Subsequently, another subject affecting the Church of England attracted much notice. The colony was visited by a very eminent and much respected Non-conformist minister, the Rev. Thos. Binney. He was cordially received by all classes of society, and was for a short time a guest at Bishop’s Court. The Governor, Sir Richard MacDonnell, was desirous that he should be invited to preach in the Church of England pulpits, and procured his own election as a member of Synod, for the purpose of proposing it, of which he gave due notice. A preliminary meeting of the Standing Committee of Synod was held to consider the subject, and I was requested to oppose the Governor’s motion by an amendment, moving the “previous question,” and thus defeating it. At the subsequent meeting of Synod, Sir Richard MacDonnell delivered a long address strongly urging the adoption of his motion, which was discussed at great length; and I moved the amendment agreed upon, which was carried by a majority of about two-thirds. The consideration that the Synod had only recently bound itself by its consensual compact to abide by the laws and usages of the Church of England, had a powerful influence with the majority. An address of thanks from the “Lincolnshire and Nottinghamshire Church Union,” dated 18th August, 1859, was afterwards received by me as the mover of the amendment on this occasion.

About the year 1848 a monetary pressure occurred, and the merchants were calling in their advances made to the sheepowners. I felt that if this course was continued it would probably lead to a commercial crisis, which would depreciate the securities held by the Bank. I therefore paid off the liabilities of those whom I considered safe to the extent of about £70,000, taking up their accounts, which prevented the expected crisis, greatly increasing the business of the Bank, and nothing was ever lost on those accounts. The London Directors became alarmed, however, at those large transactions, and remonstrated with me. It is difficult, however, for gentlemen residing at so great a distance to form an accurate judgment on such transactions.

In the year 1849, I received a letter from Lord Fitzroy Somerset, afterwards Lord Raglan, Military Secretary to the Commander-in Chief the Duke of York, forwarding to me a war medal and clasp. The Duke of Richmond had called the attention of the House of Lords to the fact that no medals had been granted to the army for certain distinguished battles and sieges, and moved an address to the Crown upon the subject, which was carried. A Board of General officers was appointed to consider and report upon the matter, and their recommendation was adopted.

The discoveries of gold in the Province of Victoria were so rich that a perfect exodus of all classes of the male population of South Australia, except the old and young, took place. It was a time of great anxiety, on account of the numerous helpless families which were left slenderly provided for. The Adelaide men were generally successful, and having collected large quantities of gold, began returning to their families in about six months, when the scenes occurring in Adelaide were quite marvellous. A dozen weddings almost daily taking place; the bridal parties driving in carriages about town and country, and clearing the drapers’ shops of silks and satins.

At the time of the exodus the notes of Banks were presented in large quantities for payment in specie, of which the Bank of South Australia, although wealthy, was nearly drained; but the demand was so sudden that there was no time to procure supplies from abroad. The Bank of Australasia held at that time about £90,000 in gold, and was prepared to aid the other Bank for mutual protection, when fortunately the scheme of the “Bullion Act” was brought into operation, and effected an immediate and wonderful change.

This Act was devised by Mr. G. S. Walters, a gentleman of great experience in monetary affairs. It provided that the gold dust already deposited in the Treasury, amounting to a large sum, should be smelted into ingots of various sizes, stamped with the Queen’s head, and the accurate assay, and declared to be legal tenders at the rate of £3 14s. per ounce—gold dust then selling in Melbourne at £3 7s. This immediately stopped the demand for sovereigns, caused large additional quantities of gold dust to be introduced from Melbourne, and quieted the public mind. Some of the gold was so pure that it afterwards realized over £4 per ounce in London.

There is no doubt that the Bullion Act was a direct infringement of the Royal prerogative as to coinage, and demanded anxious consideration. Sir Henry Young was then Governor, and the Bank Managers were requested on different occasions to meet him in Executive Council to consider the subject. Mr. Tinline (Bank of South Australia) and myself (Bank of Australasia) urgently supported the adoption of the Bill; the Manager of the Union Bank opposed it. The responsibility was very great, but the Executive Government submitted it to the Legislature, and the Bill was passed into an Act for two years. The Home Government approved of it, considering that it was warranted by the great emergency.

Another very useful measure was adopted about this time. A strong, well-armed body of mounted police was sent periodically to the gold diggings at Bendigo, in Victoria, to escort the gold found by South Australian diggers to Adelaide. The service was continued for a considerable time, and the gold thus introduced exceeded two millions sterling.

The successful gold diggers would, in all probability, have remained in Victoria and removed their families from hence had it not been that many of them were owners of land, which tied them to the province; and they ultimately returned with their unexpected wealth and purchased additional lands.

There can be no doubt that the land system of South Australia, which provided that the country should be surveyed and sold in sections of eighty acres, was the means of saving the province from temporary ruin. The facilities for acquiring land by the labouring classes were very considerable. The discovery of the Burra Copper Mine gave the first great impulse to the progress of the colony; the produce of that mine alone having exceeded £4,000,000 sterling up to a recent period.

It is curious to follow the career of an immigrant after that discovery. He became a labourer for one or two years, when his saving of wages enabled him to purchase a team of oxen and a dray. He then commenced carrying copper ore from the Burra Mine to Port Adelaide, taking back stores and provisions, and in one or two years more was in a position to purchase an eighty-acre section of land and become a farmer. While his crops were growing, and at other spare times, he again carried ore from the mine and was soon able to purchase more land, and became a man of some consequence in his district. This man was the type of a considerable class of yeomen, who, having property to protect became Conservatives, and exercised a material influence on the peace and prosperity of the country.

The transactions of the Burra Mine were on a great scale at that time, employing upwards of 1,100 men, who, with their families, numbered over 4,000 souls supported by that mine. At one period the shareholders divided annually 800 per cent. on their £5 shares. Their Bank account, however, absorbed a large amount of capital; at one period it was overdrawn about £72,000, as they calculated on the value of the ore as soon as it was raised to the surface at the mine, but before it could be shipped to England and bills drawn against it. The Bank Directors in London objected strongly to this, and even suggested more than once that the accounts had better be closed. I, however, feeling how very prejudicial to the interests of the Bank such a course would be, and having visited the mine and satisfied myself as to its great value, took the responsibility of continuing the account—the Burra Directors having engaged on my representation gradually to diminish the overdraft to a moderate amount. I felt quite convinced of the correctness of the views entertained by the London Board, as no single establishment should absorb so large a proportion of the capital allotted to each branch.

There were also a few mercantile accounts the advances to which the London Board objected as being too large, and they appeared to think that I was not sufficiently cautious in conducting their business, although they had sustained no losses, and their business had been quadrupled. Some irregularity had also occurred in the office, and I was offered the option of removing to some other branch or receiving compensation on resigning, but was requested to remain at the Bank for some time in order to aid my successor until he became acquainted with the customers and the nature of their transactions. I remained for some time, but no other branch becoming vacant, and being also unwilling to leave South Australia, I accepted compensation and retired.

Some time afterwards, having sold a property in Western Australia for £3,000, I agreed to join in a mercantile business with a gentleman connected with my family. On this becoming known to Mr. John Ellis, he very handsomely and spontaneously presented me with a letter of credit for £5,000 on the wealthy firm of Morrisson & Co., of London; and Mr. G. S. Walters, in a similar manner, introduced me to his father-in-law, Mr. Frederick Huth, of the great firm of Frederick Huth & Co., of London, who opened credits for the new firm with their several correspondents at Mauritius, Calcutta, Bombay, Ceylon, Singapore, and China, for £2,000 each. The business was thus commenced with a fair prospect, but not proving very successful after a trial of a few years, I retired from the firm.

In the year 1855 the second mixed Legislative Council, of nominated and elected members, assembled. I had offered myself as a candidate to represent the District of Willunga, in this Council, but after a close contest was defeated. The Governor, Sir Richard MacDonnell, however, immediately offered to nominate me to a seat, at the same time stating that I was not to consider myself bound in the slightest degree to support any Government measure which I did not approve. I accepted this offer and took my seat in that Council, which elected me in the following November to the honourable position of Chairman of Committees.

At this time the citizens of Adelaide obtained their supplies of water from the River Torrens, which was subject to pollution, and the cartage was inconvenient and expensive. Complaints were numerous, and the Government introduced a Bill for constructing water-works at a cost of £280,000. This amount was so large that the Council did not believe the Government was serious, and at the second reading the Chairman of Committees read some eighty clauses seriatim, with scarcely a remark from any members. The Bill was finally passed, and has proved a most beneficial measure.

On the dissolution of this mixed Council (elective and nominated) on which had devolved the passing of the Constitution Act in 1857, I was elected to represent the District of Flinders, and took my seat in the Legislative Assembly, under the new responsible Government, consisting of five members,—namely, Chief Secretary, Attorney-General, Treasurer, Commissioner of Crown Lands, and Commissioner of Public Works.

I offered myself as a candidate for the office of Speaker of the House of Assembly in the year 1857, but was unsuccessful. In the following month of September I was invited to join the Ministry of Mr. (now Sir) R. R. Torrens, and became Commissioner of Crown Lands. This Ministry lasted, however, but a short time, and was succeeded by that formed by the present Sir R. D. Hanson. The “Constitution Act” was passed during this session of Parliament. Some of its clauses were objected to by me, chiefly that relating to universal suffrage, on the ground that intelligent votes could not be given by those who could neither read or write. I succeeded, however, in introducing a clause requiring a fixed residence of six months (twelve months were proposed) to qualify for voting.

In the year 1859 I was appointed as a Special Magistrate under the “Local Courts Act”—first, to preside in the Local Courts at Willunga and Morphett Vale, and afterwards at those in the Northern Districts, namely, at Redruth, Clare, Auburn, and Riverton. I continued to perform those duties for upwards of ten years, and on the amalgamation of two districts I retired, receiving the usual retiring allowance.

On this occasion I was much gratified by receiving two flattering addresses, one from the members of the bar practising in the Northern Courts, the other signed by all the Magistrates of the District and numerous other residents. This last was beautifully illuminated and engrossed on vellum.

Having served over twenty-two years in His Majesty’s army; six years farming in a new settlement (Western Australia); seventeen years as a Bank manager; three years as a merchant; four years in Parliament, during which I held office in the Ministry for a short time; and lastly, over ten years administering the laws in Local Courts—my career may be fairly considered as long and varied. Having arrived at an old age, I may now rest from my labours, trusting to the atoning merits of a merciful Redeemer, the Lord Jesus Christ, for an eternal rest hereafter.

Transcriber’s Notes:
- Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected.
- Typographical errors were silently corrected.
- Two errata were applied to the text.
  - Page 5, line 28.–For “Gulf of Causo” read “Gut of Causo.”
  - Page 16, line 2.–For “Montreal” read “Montreuil.”
- Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when a predominant form was found in this book.

A BRIEF SKETCH OF THE LONG AND VARIED CAREER OF Marshall MacDermott ESQ., J.P., OF ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA.

A BRIEF SKETCH

A BRIEF SKETCH
OF THE
LONG AND VARIED CAREER
OF
Marshall MacDermott
ESQ., J.P.,
OF
ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA.